As Seen in Vogue: A Century of American Fashion in Advertising

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Texas Tech University Press, 2007 - Art - 226 pages
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Throughout the twentieth century the ready-to-wear industry, fashion journalism, and mass-media advertising fueled one anotherís success by identifying an ever-widening consumer class and fanning the desire to be fashionable. Through more than six hundred fashion ads that appeared in Vogue from the magazineís debut in 1893 through the next ten decades, Hill documents not only this symbiosis but also an evolution in American fashion, society, and culture. In rich progression, the images document metamorphoses: from alabaster Victorian homemaker to painted flapper in just a generation, from conformist fifties mom to miniskirt-clad iconoclast only a decade later, from power-suited yuppie of the eighties to the techno self-stylist of the new millennium. In this long view of interactions that shaped much, much more than the fashion, Hill offers a comprehensive examination and resource for students and professionals in fashion and business history, popular culture, advertising, marketing, and womenís studies.
  

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Contents

IN THE BEGINNING
1
American Womens Magazines
2
Fashion Advertising
4
Then Came Vogue
6
Conde Nast
10
VICTORIA THROUGH WORLD WAR I
18
The Interlude that Was Edwardianism 19001908
19
The Gibson Girl and American Fashions
22
Fifties Themes and Variations
83
YOUTHQUAKE IN THE SIXTIES AND SCHIZOPHRENIA IN THE SEVENTIES
91
The Beige Years
93
The Youth Explosion of the Midsixties
96
Counterculture and the Late Sixties
98
The Me Decade Begins
105
From Ennui to the Search for Novelty
113
THE SYBARITIC EIGHTIES AND THE FIN DE SIECLE
118

Hemlines and Hobble Skirts
25
World War I
27
HIGHS OF THE TWENTIES AND LOWS OF THE THIRTIES
34
Battle of the Hemline
36
Seventh Avenue
39
Seen in the Shops
41
Womens Sports and Sports Clothes
42
Expo 25 and Art Deco
44
Hard Times and Soft Curves
48
A New Deal New Times and New Looks
51
West Coast Influences
53
American Designers
56
Celebration and Timult in 1939
61
WORLD WAR II THROUGH THE FASHION CONSCIOUS FIFTIES
64
For the First Time on Their Own
66
The War Years 19421945
70
After the War a New Look
74
Segue to the FashionConscious Fifties
77
The Second Half of the Century Begins
78
Pluralism and Witticism
120
Gimmicks and Exaggerations of the Mideighties
124
Revivalisms and the New Ideal Body
127
The Democracy of Fashion in the 1990s
132
Grunge Cyberstyle and Menswear
136
Coming Full Circle
139
THE BARE ESSENTIALS LINGERIE AND S WIMWE AR
143
Corsetry
144
From the Sbend Corset to the New Millennium Bustier
145
Bust Supporters to Wonderbras
151
Long Johns to Panty Thongs
153
Swimwear
158
ACCESSORIES HATS SHOES AND JEWELRY
167
Shoes
178
Jewelry
190
Notes
203
Bibliography
213
Index
221
Copyright

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About the author (2007)

Daniel Delis Hill has worked as a retail fashion illustrator, creative director of fashion photography, and assistant professor in the Department of Fashion at Virginia Commonwealth University. He is the author of six books on American fashion history, including As Seen in Vogue: A Century of American Fashion in Advertising (TTUP, 2007). He lives in San Antonio, Texas

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