Extreme Eiger: The Race to Climb the Eiger Direct•The classic story of a notorious climb, now revised, updated, and expanded by the original author with new information •Literally a race to ascend Europe’s most formidable mountain wall—Brits and Americans versus Germans The North Face of the Eiger was long renowned as the most dangerous climb in the Swiss Alps, one that had cost the lives of numerous skilled mountaineers. In February 1966, two teams—one German, the other British/American—aimed to climb it in a straight line from bottom to top. Astonishingly, the two teams knew almost nothing about each other's attempt until both arrived at the foot of the face. The race was on. The Anglo-American team of John Harlin, Layton Kor, and Dougal Haston intended to make a dash to the summit when conditions were right. The Germans, with an eight-man team and a mass of equipment, planned a slow, relentless ascent. Watching all was a young journalist, Peter Gillman. Now, fifty years later, Gillman recalls the dramatic events on the North Face, and assesses their effect on those who took part. The charismatic and controversial American climber John Harlin was killed before the summit was reached, while others were permanently injured through frostbite. For British photographer Chris Bonington, who was sucked into the action, it opened a path to a career and reputation as Britain's foremost mountaineer. “It was incredibly challenging and probably some of the hardest climbing done in the Alps to that time,” remembers Bonington. “Being involved was absolutely fantastic. There’s never been anything like it for me, before or since.” This title is part of our LEGENDS AND LORE series. Click here > to learn more. |
Contents
Falling In Love | |
A Drop Of Water | |
The Killer Eiger | |
Comings And Goings | |
The Unknowns | |
Storms Batter Eiger | |
The Turning Point | |
A Happy Scene | |
The Telescope | |
The Devil Was | |
A Miracle And A Dream | |
Goodbyes | |
The Shadow | |
The Opposition Has Started | |
Unbeatable Immortal | |
Parallel Lines | |
Route Description | |
Acknowledgements | |
Other editions - View all
Extreme Eiger: The Race to Climb the Direct Route Up the North Face of the Eiger Peter Gillman,Leni Gillman No preview available - 2016 |
Extreme Eiger: The Race to Climb the Direct Route up the North Face of the Eiger Peter Gillman,Leni Gillman No preview available - 2015 |
Extreme Eiger: Triumph and Tragedy on the North Face Peter Gillman,Leni Gillman No preview available - 2015 |
Common terms and phrases
abseiled Alpiglen Alps American Andréa arrived asked attempt avalanches Baillie Band Barbara became belay bivouac sack Bonington and Kor Burke Central Pillar Chamonix Chris Bonington climb climbers crampons Death Bivouac descend Eiger Direct Eigergletscher equipment Everest expedition father felt fixed ropes Flatiron foot Frey frostbite German climbers German team Germans Golikow Grindelwald Haag’s Harlin’s team Harri Frey Haston and Harlin Haston and Kor Hupfauer ice axe Icefield JH2’s fall John Harlin John Jr joined Jumars Kleine Scheidegg Kor’s later Lehne Lehne’s Leni Leysin looked Löw March Marilyn Matterhorn metres morning mountain Nanga Parbat night North Face overhang partner photographs pitch pitons Piussi radio call reached the summit recalled return to Kleine rock Rosenzopf route rucksack Schnaidt Second Icefield skiing snow hole Sorgato spent Spider stance Stöckli Summit Icefield Swabian team’s telescope told took traverse Trento Vorbau weather Weekend Telegraph West Flank Whillans wrote