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From Tocuyo it traverses the hilly region by which the Sierra de la Costa is united to the Andes, passing through Barquisimento, S. Carlos, Valentia, and Victoria, to Caraccas.

The Central Andes of New Granada run N., with a

slight declination to the E., and form between their com

mencement and 5° 15′ one great mass of rocks, about 40 or 50 miles in breadth, whose sides are only furrowed by ravines, but not intersected by valleys. Its mean height seems to be rather greater than that of the E. Andes, and it contains several summits which exceed the snow line. The most remarkable of them are from S. to N. the Nevados de Huila, de Baraguan, de Tolima (which attains 18,336 ft.), and de Herveo. In the vicinity of the latter (50 15) the range expands to about double its width, separating at the same time into several ridges, so as to form a mountain knot, with intervening valleys. This mountain region, known under the name of Sierra de Antioquia, forms in its upper valleys a high country, from 6,000 to 7,000 ft. above the sea, on which the ridges rise 2,000 ft. and more. It approaches very close to the Rio Cauca, so as to skirt its bed for about 150 miles. Opposite to the high banks formed by these ridges other mountains, belonging to the W. Andes, approach as near to the river, which runs for nearly 150 miles in an immense cleft, over a rocky and rugged bottom, and forms a series of cataracts and rapids between Salto de S. Antonio and Bocca del Espirito Santo. In all this space the river is quite unfit for navigation, and travelling by land is in this country very fatiguing, and not without danger. The ridges which issue from the mountain knot of the Sierra de Antioquia approach the Rio Magdalena to a distance of a few miles, and terminate not far from the place where that river joins the Rio Cauca, about 80 30.

That portion of the Central Andes which forms one undivided mass is crossed by two roads; one leading from Bogota to Popayan, and the other to Cartago. The first runs after descending from the elevated plain of Bogota to the banks of the Rio Magdalena, in the valley of this river to the S. as far as the town of La Plata, whence it turns W., and crosses the range over the Paramo de las Guanacas, on which it rises to 14,705 ft. above the sea. It then descends into the valley of the Cauca to the town of Popayan. The road between Bogota and Cartago descends from the plain of Bogota (8.736 ft.), crosses the Rio Magdalena at the pass de Guayacana (1,200 ft.), passes through the town of Ibague (4,480 ft.), and crosses the range by the famous mountain pass of Quindiu, between the Nevados of Baraguan and Tolima; at its highest point, the Garito del Paramo, it attains an elevation of 11,504 ft. above the level of the sea. It descends afterwards to the town of Cartago in the valley of the Cauca (3,152 feet).

The IV. Andes of New Granada are the same range, which farther S. is called Sierra de la Costa or de Sindagua. It lowers considerably in advancing to the N., so that between 2° 30′ and 50 N. lat. its mean elevation does not exceed 5,000 or 6,000 ft. above the sea, or from 2,000 to 3,000 ft. above the valley of the Cauca; nor is its breadth considerable, probably not more than from 15 to 20 miles, but it rises with a very precipitous declivity. N. of 50 the range is higher, and its breadth more considerable. Its highest summit is the Torra del Choco, S. E. of Novita, which, however, is far from attaining the snow line, and probably does not rise to much more than 10,000 feet. N. of this summit the range approaches close to the Rio Cauca, forming its high banks between the Salto de S. Antonio and the Bocca del Espirito Santo, and constituting with the opposite ranges of the Central Andes, as it were, one mountain knot. The Western Andes send from this point a range towards the Caribbean Sea, which skirts the Rio Cauca on the W., extending to the N. of 80 N. lat., and contains the Alto de Viento, a summit which attains more than 9,000 ft.

of elevation.

From the W Andes a ridge branches off near 6° N lat. It runs to the W., and separates the sources of the Rio de S. Juan, which falls into the Pacific, from those of the Atrato, which runs to the Carribbean Sea. This range soon turns to the N. N. W., and advances in that direction between the Rio Atrato and the Pacific. Its

elevation seems not to be considerable at the beginning, and it grows lower as it advances farther N. It seems to disappear entirely between 70 and 80, opposite to the harbour of Cupica on the Pacific; for no mountain range is found on the isthmus of Panama, where it is

narrowest.

Six roads are said to cross the W. Andes; but they can only be used with great difficulty, on account of the extreme steepness of the ridge. They are commonly impracticable for mules, and travellers as well as goods are brought over on the backs of Indians. The roads in the valley of the Cauca to Buenaventura, a harbour on the Pacific; the road of S. Augustin, connecting

most used are that of Las Juntas, which leads from Cali

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Cartago with Novita; and that of Verras, by which the town of Citara in the valley of the Atrato communicates with Antioquia on the banks of the Cauca.

The Geology of the Andes is very imperfectly known. Only a small portion of their immense and the information obtained from them teaches extent has been visited by scientific travellers; only a few isolated facts, which do not justify general conclusions. We are, however, informed, that the most frequent of the primitive rocks of the Alps-granite and gneiss-are by no means frequent in the Andes, which are composed mostly of porphyry and mica-slate. Porphyry is by far the most widely extended of the unstratified rocks of the Andes, and occurs through the whole range at all elevations, and frequently the highest summits are composed of it. Next to porphyry and mica-slate, trachyte and basalt are most frequently met with.

Volcanoes are frequent in certain portions of the range. Capt. B. Hall observed a phenomenon, which induced him to think that a volcano exists on one of the larger islands N. of Cape Horn, and that the observed phenomenon was produced by an eruption; but Capt. King, who surveyed these islands about 10 years ago, seems not to have found a volcano in Tierra del Fuego, nor in any other portion of the range south of 46° S. lat. But farther N. they occur in great numbers. Four volcanoes are visible from the island of Chiloe; they lie on the opposite coast, between 46° and 42° S. lat. Still more numerous are the volcanoes in the Chilean Andes, not less than 19 being known to be there in a state of acThe most N. is that of Coquimbo, tivity. somewhat to the S. of 30° S. lat. But between this volcano and that of Atacama (between 21° and 22° S. lat.) no volcano is stated to exist, that of Copiapò, which appears on our maps, being unknown in the country. Farther N. the volcanic mountains occur only in the W. range of the Bolivian Andes; none of the high summits of the E. range having ever been known to have made an eruption, or emitted smoke. It is not known whether volcanoes exist in the Andes between 14° and 5° S. lat. ; but it is certain that in this part of the range they are not numerous, as no mention of them has been made by travellers. That portion of the Andes in which volcanic agency is most active lies between 30 S. lat. and 2o N. lat. The number of summits whose eruptions are recorded is here very considerable; and Humboldt is inclined to think that the valleys N. of the Pass of Assuay are to volcanic basis, and that most of the numerous be considered as being placed on an extensive summits surrounding them have once served, and may again serve, as channels for the subterranean fire communicating with the atmosphere. farthest N. of these volcanoes is that of Puracé, in the neighbourhood of Popayan, where the Andes begin to divide into three ranges; which seem to be, in their present state, quite exempt from volcanic agency, none of their summits having ever made an eruption.

The

No portion of the globe is subject to such frequent and frightful earthquakes as the countries embosomed within the range of the Andes, and those lying between them and the Pacific Ocean, The towns of Bogota, Quito, Riobamba, Callao, at different times been more or less destroyed Copiapo, Valparaiso, Concepcion, and others, have by their agency; and some more than once.

Line of perpetual Congelation. -The observations made by Humboldt in the Andes induced him to fix the snow line near the equator, at an elevation of 15,750 ft.; and he thought that, near

are found to ascend to 12,000 ft. or 14,000 ft. on the declivities of the mountains; but their summits, which commonly form plains of some extent, are nearly bare of vegetation, nourishing only two or three kinds of low plants.

the tropic, it would be found at about 14,000 ft., or | Bogota a farinaceous root, called aracacha, is somewhat higher. But Mr. Pentland found it near cultivated, and lately some attempts have been 17° S. lat., at nearly 17,000 ft.; and later observ-made to introduce its culture in England. Trees ations fix it near 12° S. lat., at about 16,400 ft. above the level of the sea. It is farther remarkable, that though a great number of summits rise above the snow line, glaciers are of rare occurrence in the Andes. This is partly to be attributed to the relative position of their summits which generally form a continuous line, without having other summits on their sides; and partly to the considerable distance which every where is found to intervene between two summits. It is only in the narrow ravines by which some of the sides of the giant summits are furrowed, that glaciers of small extent are met with.

Among the vegetable productions of the Andes, none has obtained greater celebrity than the cinchona, or Jesuits' bark, which is now known to grow not only on different parts of the Andes, but also on the other high mountains of S. America. The best bark, however, is collected on the Andes between 5° N. lat. and 5° S. lat., where the trees grow at an elevation of from 10,000 to 14,000 ft. above the sea.

Zoology of the Andes.-This we are very imperfectly acquainted with. The most remarkable genus is that which comprehends the guanacos, llamas, and vicunas, of which the llamas are used as animals of burden; but they are slow, making only about 12 miles a day, and carrying about 70 lbs. of burthen. The vicunas give a very valuable kind of wool. Among birds, the condors have always attracted the attention of travellers, on account of their enormous size. They are a species of vulture.

Vegetation of the Andes. The different plants and trees peculiar to the different regions of the globe appear in regular succession, as we ascend from the level of the ocean to the heights of the Andes. In the lower grounds, between the tropics, from the level of the sea to the height of from 3,000 to 5,000 feet, cassava, cacao, maize, plantains, indigo, sugar, cotton, and coffee are cultivated. Indigo and cacao, the plantain or the banana tree, and the cassava root require great heat to be brought to maturity, generally a climate of which the mean temperature is 75°. But cotton and coffee will grow at a considerable Mineral Wealth. If the high table-land of elevation, and sugar is cultivated with success in Anahuac in Mexico be excepted, no mountain the temperate parts of Quito. Maize is culti-range can vie with the Andes in mineral riches, vated in the same climate as the banana; but its especially in the precious metals. Many of cultivation extends over a much wider sphere, the rivers descending from the Andes between as it arrives at maturity at an elevation of 6,000 ft. the tropics contain small particles of gold in above the sea. The low country within the tro- their sand. The particles of gold deposited in pics is also the region of oranges, pine-apples, the alluvial soil skirting the beds of some of and the most delicious fruits. Between the alti- these rivers have attracted the attention of Eutudes of 6,000 ft. and 9,000 ft. lies the climate best ropeans, and at some places the soil is carefully suited for the culture of all kinds of European washed. The alluvial soils richest in gold are grain. Wheat, under the equator, will seldom those lying to the W. of the Central Andes of form an ear below an elevation of 4,500 ft., or New Granada, on both sides of the Rio Cauca ; ripen if above that of 10,000 ft. At the same as also in the provinces of Barbacoas and Choco time it must be observed, that the European co-along the Pacific. In the latter districts platina lonists have not sufficiently varied their agricultural experiments to ascertain exactly the minimum of height at which European cerealia would come to maturity in the equinoctial regions of America. Humboldt mentions that in the Ca-in gold are also found along the rivers which raccas he saw fine harvests of wheat near Victoria, in the latitude of 10° 13′ N., at the height of 1,640 and 1,900 ft., and at Cuba wheat flourishes at a still smaller elevation. Rye and barley, especially the latter, resist cold better than wheat; they are accordingly cultivated at a greater elevation. Barley yields abundant harvests at heights where the thermometer rarely keeps up during the day above 57° Fah. Within the limits in which European grain flourishes is to be found the oak, which from an elevation of 9,200 ft. never descends, near the equator, below that of 5,500 ft., though it is met with in the parallel of Mexico at the height of only 2,620 ft. Beyond the limit of 9,000 ft. large trees of every kind begin to disappear, though some dwarfish pines are to be found at the height of 13,000 fl., nearly 2,000 ft. from the line of perpetual snow. The grasses clothe the ground at an elevation of from 13,500 ft. to 15,100 ft.; and from this to the regions of ice and snow, the only plants visible are the lichen, which covers the face of the rocks, and seems even to penetrate under the snow.

In districts as elevated as the valley of Titicaca, agriculture is confined to potatoes, onions, and capsicum, and to the grain called quinoa (Chenopedium quinoa, Lin.); barley and rye are only cultivated as fodder. On the plain of

also occurs; and, till within these few years, when it has been found in the Ural mountains, these were considered as the only places in which it was to be met with. Alluvial soils rich

descend from the range of the Bolivian Andes, between 14° and 17° S. lat. ; and here too considerable quanties of gold are extracted. The annual produce of the lavaderos and gold mines of the Andes is stated by Humboldt to have amounted, in the beginning of the 19th century, to 283,429 oz.; equal, at 4l. per oz., to 1,133,7167.

Silver occurs in many places of the range between 33° and the equator; but it is commonly found at an elevation where vegetation nearly ceases, which renders the working of the mines very expensive, and frequently disappoints the otherwise well-founded expectations of the undertakers. The number of mines which have been worked and abandoned is very great; many of them, however, are still worked. The most celebrated silver mines are those of Potosi and Pasco. The former are in the Cerro de Potosi (19° 36′ S. lat. ), which rises to 16,037 ft. above the sea. This mountain is perforated in all directions; and it is said, though the statement be probably exaggerated, that there are no fewer than 5,000 excavations in it. The Cerro de Pasco is a hill, rising on the high plain of Bombon (about 11° S. lat.). It has been worked for more than two centuries, and may now be considered as the richest silver mine of America; unless, which is doubtful, it be sur

passed by the silver mines discovered in N. Chili in 1830, about 30 or 40 m. S. of the town of Copiapo, where silver ore is said to be very abundant, and so rich as to yield 40 or even 70 ounces in each cargo. At the beginning of the present century, the annual produce of the silver mines of the Andes was stated by Humboldt to amount to 691,492 lbs. troy; which, if we take the silver at 5 shillings the ounce, gives a sum of 2,074,476/. It is not easy to estimate its amount at present; but probably it is not much fallen off. Mercury or quicksilver occurs in many places N. of 14° S. lat., and S. of the equator; but since the destruction of the mines of Guancavelica, we are not sure whether it be any where worked. 'These, which were extremely rich, yielding from 4,000 to 6,000 cwt. a year, were unluckily ruined in 1789, through the ignorance and mismanagement of a superintendent.

Copper seems to occur very frequently S. of 14° S. lat. Large masses of nearly pure copper are stated to exist on the surface of the S. extremity of the valley of Titicaca, but the expense of bringing them down to the coast is at present so great that they cannot be turned to advantage. In the N. provinces of Chili several mines are worked with advantage. Miers estimated the quantity of copper exported from these countries in 1824 at 40,000 cwt. ; in 1829, it rose to 60,000, and has since materially increased. It is mostly exported to China, India, and the U. States.

Ores of lead, tin, and iron are said to exist in various parts; but they are not worked.

Population of the Andes. It is a characteristic feature of S. America, that its extensive plains, which comprise more than three fourths of its surface, are very thinly inhabited; nor does it appear likely that large portions of them should ever be brought to such a state of cultivation as to maintain a dense population. At present, far the greater number of the inhabitants are met with on the table lands, and in the valleys of the Andes. It has been doubted whether the whole population of S. America exceeds 12,000,000; but this, we have little doubt, is below the mark. We are inclined to think that the inhabitants of the Andes, including the coast of the Pacific, amount to more than 6,000,000. This coast is favoured with an excellent climate, and that portion of it which lies between 40° and 30° S. lat. has in general a good soil; but between 30° and 5° S. lat. it is a complete desert-a circumstance mainly attributable to the entire want of rain. a single drop never refreshing its arid soil. In this respect it forms a singular contrast with the coast extending between the equator and the Isthmus of Panama, where hardly a day passes without rain, and where at certain seasons it pours down in such abundance as to change all the lower lands into swamps, and to render the country extremely unhealthy. The whole coast along the Pacific does not probably contain 1 million inhabitants; so that more than 4 millions live within the mountain system.

The state of these countries seems to have been little different at the time when America was discovered. In the Andes only was found a government regularly arranged, and a nation which had made a considerable progress in civilisation, and which chiefly subsisted by the produce of its agriculture. Here only the Spaniards were able to conquer the country; in the other parts of America they established colonies, and tried by various means to subject the savage nations in their neighbourhood: these attempts succeeded in some instances, and in others not.

The population of the Andes is composed of the descendants of the Spaniards, and of the ancient Peruvians. Negroes have also been introduced in the N. districts, and are pretty numerous in the valleys of the Rio Magdalena and Rio Cauca; they are also found on the coast in the provinces of Barbacoas and Choco, and, in small numbers, on the remainder of the coast as far S. as Arica. (13° S. lat.) The whites constitute the great bulk of the population in the valleys of the Rio Magdalena and Cauca; in the latter no aborigines are met with. But on the high valleys of Equator, on the plain of Bombon, on the table land of Titicaca, and in the valleys which extend to the E. of the great chain of the Andes, the ancient Peruvians are by far the most numerous class of inhabitants, the whites being there probably much less than a fourth part of the population. The Peruvians belong to the copper-coloured race spread nearly over the whole American continent. They speak different languages; but the Quichua, sometimes called the language of the Incas, is understood or spoken by most of them. Travellers in general admit their frugality and industry in agriculture, working the mines, and some branches of manufacturing industry; but they are altogether deficient in that activity, spirit of enterprise, and desire to excel by which Europeans are distinguished.

Travelling in the Andes. The improvement of the countries embosomed within the Andes is much retarded by the want of easy communication. Sometimes the intercourse between places in the immediate vicinity of each other is interrupted by quebradas, or rents, generally narrow, sometimes of a vast depth, and with nearly perpendicular sides. The famous natural bridge of Icononzo, in Columbia. leads over a small quebrada; it is elevated about 312 feet above the torrent that flows in the bottom of the chasm. Most of the torrents that are passed in travelling over the Cordilleras are fordable; though their impetuosity is such when swoln by the rains as to detain travellers for several days. But when they are too deep to be forded, or the banks too inaccessible, suspension bridges are thrown over them, of a singular make; but which, notwithstanding their apparently dangerous and fragile construction, are found to answer the purposes required. Where the river is narrow, with high banks, they are constructed of wood, and consist of 4 long beams laid close together over the precipice, and forming a path of about a yard and a half in breadth, being just sufficient for a man to pass over on horseback. These bridges have become so familiar to the natives that they pass them without apprehension. Where the breadth of the river will not admit of a beam being laid across, ropes constructed of bejucos, a species of thin elastic cane, of the length required are thrown over. Six of these ropes

are stretched from one side of the river to the other; two, intended to serve as parapets, being considerably higher than the other four; and the latter being covered with sticks laid in a transverse direction, the bridge is passed by men, while the mules, being divested of their burdens, are made to swim across. All travellers have spoken of the extreme danger of passing these rope bridges, which look like ribands suspended above a crevice or impetuous torrent. But this danger, according to Humboldt, is not very great when a single person passes over the bridge as quickly as possible, with his body leaning forward. But the oscillations of the ropes become very great when the traveller is conducted by an Indian

who walks quicker than himself; or when, frightened by the view of the water seen through the interstices of the bamboos, he has the imprudence to stop in the middle of the bridge, and lay hold of the ropes that serve as a rail. Some of the rivers of the higher Andes are passed by means an invention or bridge denominated a tarabita. | It conveys not only the passengers, but also their cattle and burdens; and is used to pass those torrents whose rapidity and the large stones continually rolling down, render it impossible for mules to swim across. It consists of a strong rope of bejuco, extended across the river, on each bank of which it is fastened to stout posts. On one side is a kind of wheel or winch to straiten or slack the rope to the degree required. From this rope hangs a kind of movable leathern hammock, capable of holding a man, to which a rope is fastened for drawing it to the side intended. For carrying over mules two ropes are necessary, and these much thicker and slacker. The creature being suspended from them, and secured by girths round the belly, neck, and legs, is shoved off, and dragged to the opposite bank. Some of these bejuco bridges are of great length, and elevated to a great height above the torrent.

A bridge of this sort was constructed by the 5th Inca over the Desaguadero, or river that issues from lake Titicaca, where it is more than 200 feet in width; and, on account of its utility, is still kept up. Sometimes, instead of being made of bejucos or osiers, these suspension bridges are made of twisted strands or thongs of bullock's hide. Mr. Miers passed along one of this sort in Chili, 225 feet in length, by 6 feet wide! It conveyed over loaded mules, and was perfectly secure. (Ulloa, Voyage en Amerique, i. 358. Miers, Chili, i. 335.; Humboldt's Researches, ii. 72.)

they must both unavoidably perish. The address of these creatures is here truly wonderful; for in this so rapid motion, when they seem to have lost all command of themselves, they follow exactly the different windings of the path, as if they had previously reconnoitred and settled in their minds the route they were to follow, and taken every precaution for their safety. There would otherwise, indeed, be no possibility of travelling over places where the safety of the rider depends on the experience and address of his beast. The valleys of the Cordilleras, which are deeper and narrower than those of the Alps and Pyrences, and present scenes of the wildest aspect, give rise also to several other peculiarities in the mode of travelling. In many parts, owing to the humidity of the climate, and the declivity of the ground, the streamlets which flow down the mountains have hollowed out gullies from about 20 to 25 feet in depth. The pathway which runs along those crevices is frequently not above a foot or a foot and a half in breadth, and has the appearance of a gallery dug and left open to the sky. In some places the opening above is covered by the thick vegetation which grows out from both sides of the crevice, so that the traveller is forced to grope his way in darkness. The oxen, which are the beasts of burden commonly made use of in this country, can scarcely force their way through these galleries, some of which are more than a mile in length; and if the traveller should happen to meet them in one of the passages, he has no means of avoiding them but by climbing the earthen wall which borders the crevice, and keeping himself suspended by laying hold of the roots which penetrate to this depth from the surface of the ground. "In many of the passes of the Andes," says Humboldt, "such is the state of the roads that the usual mode of travelling The ruggedness of the roads in the less fre- for persons in easy circumstances is in a chair quented parts of the Andes, can hardly be de-strapped to the back of one of the native porters scribed. In many places the ground is so nar- (cargueros), or men of burden, who live by row, that the mules employed in travelling have letting out their backs and loins to travellers. scarcely room to set their feet, and in others it They talk in this country of going on a man's is a continued series of precipices. These paths back (andar en cargueros), as we mention going are full of holes, from two to three feet deep, on horseback. No humiliating idea is annexed in which the mules set their feet, and draw their to the trade of cargueros; and the men who bellies and their riders' legs along the ground. follow this occupation are not Indians, but muThe holes serve as steps, without which the pre- lattoes, and sometimes even whites. It is often cipices would be in a great measure imprac- curious to hear these men, with scarcely any ticable; but, should the creature happen to set covering, and following an employment which its foot between two of these holes, or not place we should consider so disgraceful, quarrelling it right, the rider falls; and if on the side of in the midst of a forest, because one has refused the precipice, inevitably perishes. This danger the other, who pretends to have a whiter skin, is even greater where the holes are wanting. the pompous title of Don or Su Merced. The tracks are extremely steep and slippery, The usual load of a carguero is six or seven and in general chalky and wet; and where arrobas; those who are very strong carry as much their are no holes to serve as steps, Indians as nine arrobas. When we reflect on the enorare obliged to go before with small spades to mous fatigue to which these miserable men are exdig little trenches across the path. In de- posed, journeying eight or nine hours a day over scending those places where there are no holes a mountainous country; when we know that or trenches, and which are sometimes many their backs are sometimes as raw as those of hundred yards deep, the instinct of the mules beasts of burden; that travellers have often the accustomed to pass them is admirable. They cruelty to leave them in a forest when they fall are sensible of the caution requisite in the de- sick; that they earn, by a journey from Ibague scent. On coming to the top of an eminence, to Cartago, only 12 or 14 piasters in from 15 to they stop; and having placed their fore feet close 25 days; we are at a loss to conceive how this together, as if in a posture of stopping them-employment of a carguero should be eagerly selves, they also put their hind feet together, but a little forwards, as if going to lie down. In this attitude, having, as it were, taken a survey of the road, they slide down with the swiftness of a meteor. The rider has only to keep himself fast in the saddle, without checking his beast; for the least motion is sufficient to disorder the equilibrium of the mule, in which case

embraced by all the robust young men who live at the foot of the mountains. The taste for a wandering life, the idea of a certain independence amid forests, leads them to prefer it to the sedentary and monotonous labour of cities. The passage of the mountain of Quindiu is not the only part of South America which is traversed on the backs of men. The whole of the

province of Antioquia is surrounded by mountains so difficult to pass, that they who dislike entrusting themselves to the skill of a bearer, and are not strong enough to travel on foot from Santa Fe de Antioquia to Bocca de Nares or Rio Samana, must relinquish all thoughts of leaving the country. The number of young men who undertake the employments of beasts of burden at Choco, Ibague, and Medellin, is so considerable, that we sometimes meet a file of fifty or sixty. A few years ago, when a project was formed to make the passage from Nares to Antioquia passable for mules, the cargueros pre-sheltered by vast forests of fir. The inhab. depend sented formal remonstrances against mending the road, and the government was weak enough to yield to their clamours. The person carried in a chair by a carguero, must remain several hours motionless, and leaning backwards. The least motion is sufficient to throw down the carrier; and his fall would be so much the more dangerous, as the carguero, too confident in his own skill, chooses the most rapid declivities, or crosses a torrent on a narrow and slippery trunk of a These accidents are, however, rare; and those which happen must be attributed to the imprudence of travellers, who, frightened at a false step of the carguero, leap down from their chairs." (Researches, i. 69.)

tree.

In order to protect travellers, when they are sojourning in this desert country, from the inclemency of the weather, the cargueros provide themselves with several hundred leaves of a plant of the banana species, which they pluck in the mountains before they begin their journey. These leaves, which are membranous and silky, are of an oval form, 2 feet long, and 16 in. in breadth. When the travellers reach a spot in the midst of the forests where the ground is dry, and where they propose to pass the night, the cargueros lop a few branches from the trees, with which they make a tent. In a few minutes this slight timber-work is divided into squares by the stalks of some climbing plant, or by the threads of the agave. The banana leaves having in the mean time been unrolled, are now spread over the above work, so as to cover it like the tiles of a house. These huts, thus hastily built, are cool and commodious; and Humboldt mentions that he passed several days in the valley of Boquia under one of those leafy tents, which was perfectly dry, though exposed to violent

and incessant rains.

No doubt the access to the Andes will, in the course of time, be facilitated by the establishment of steam packets on the Amazon and its tributaries. That this has not been attempted ere now is, we apprehend, a consequence rather of the revolutionary anarchical state in which the country has been plunged since the overthrow of the Spanish government, than of any natural difficulties in the way of such navigation. Anarchy, however, must in the end exhaust itself; and either a free government or a despotism be established in its stead. And it is hardly possible to suppose that any regular government, whatever may be its character, should be established for any considerable period without turning its attention to the means of developing the extraordinary resources of these fine countries: and of these none can be either so effectual, or so obviously indispensable, as the opening of improved communications with the coast, and with the great navigable rivers of the interior.

ANDLAU, a town of France, dep. Bas Rhin, arrond. Schelestat, on the Andlau, 10 m. N. N. W. Schelestat. Pop. 2,257.

ANDORRE (REPUBLIC OF), a small independent state on the S. declivity of the Pyrenees, between the dep. of Ariége in France, and the district of Urgel in Spain. It stretches from N. toS. about 36 m., and from E. to W. about 30, comprising three mountain valleys, and the basin formed by their union. These valleys are among the wildest and most picturesque in the Pyrenees, and the mountains, with their immense peaks, by which they are enclosed, among the highest and least accessible. It is watered by several small rivers; the largest of which, the Embalin, having received the others, falls into the Segre, an affluent of the Ebro. Pop. from 7,000 to 8,000, divided among six communes. Andorre, the principal town, has about 2,000 inhab. It has but little arable land, but a considerable extent of excellent pasture grounds, of the latter finding a ready market in Spain. This principally on their flocks and iron mines, the produce little state, though connected in some degree with both its powerful neighbours, has preserved its independence for about 1000 years. The government is composed of a council of 24 members, chosen for life, each commune who enjoy considerable authority, convoking the aselecting four. The council elect two Syndics (Hugo), semblies, and carrying on the government when they are not sitting. It is to Charlemagne that Andorre owes its independence. In 1790, that prince having marched against the Moors of Spain, and defeated them in the neighbouring valley of Carol, the Andorrians are said to have rendered themselves so useful to the French army, supplying them with provisions, and taking care of their wounded, that the Emperor, by way of recompence, made them independent of the neighbouring princes, and permitted them to be governed by their own laws. After him Louis le Debonnaire ceded to the Bishop of Urgel a part of the rights over Andorre which Charlemagne had reserved to himself and his successors. In virtue of this grant, the Bishop acquired right to a part of the tithes of the six communes, and a spiritual jurisdiction over the country, which he still exercises.

In 1793, the rights exercised by the sovereigns of France and the republic was for a time completely separated from in Andorre being considered as feudal, were abandoned, that country; but notwithstanding this temporary independence, the Andorrians continued to preserve their attachment to France. They resisted the violation of French armies, during the late war, guides and assistance their territory by the Spaniards, and furnished to the of every kind. At the same time they anxiously solicited the establishment of the ancient order of things; and Napoleon yielded to their wish. By a decree of the 20th of March, 1806, Andorre was declared to be a republic connected with France; its viguier, or criminal judge, was to be a Frenchman, of the dep. of Ariége; and it was allowed to import certain quantities of certain specified articles, free of duty, on payment of the trifling sum of 960 risdiction of the Bishop of Urgel, which cannot be said fr. a year. Except, therefore, as regards the spiritual juto interfere with its independence any more than the Pope's ecclesiastical authority over Catholic countries can with theirs, Andorre is altogether independent of Spain; and, as regards France, the annual payment it makes to her is not a tribute, but an inadequate compensation for a valuable privilege; and there being little crime in Andorre, the appointment of a Frenchman for criminal judge was more with a view to deter French criminals from taking refuge in this neutral territory, than to assert any superiority. Andorre may, therefore, be justly considered as the oldest free republic in existence. people all belong to the church of Rome, and are very religious. Their clergy, and the more wealthy of the Each curé, in addition to his pastoral duties, has charge inhabitants, are educated at Toulouse of a school, where the poor are instructed gratuitously; but this does not give him much extra trouble, few of the peasants thinking it necessary to send their children to school to acquire what, in their land of shepherds and labourers, they imagine can be of little consequence in their future lives. Hence the great majority of the people can neither read nor write.

The

or Barcelona.

The Andorrians are simple and severe in their manners, the vices and corruptions of cities not having hitherto found their way into their valleys. They live as their forefathers lived a thousand years before them: the little they know concerning the luxuries, arts, and civilisation of other countries inspiring them rather with fear than envy. Their wealth consists in their sheep or cattle, or in the share they may have in iron forges, only a very few of their number being the proprietors of any land beyond the garden which surrounds their cottage. Each family acknowledges a chief, who succeeds by right of primogeniture. These chiefs, or eldest sons, choose their wives from families of equal consideration with their own, reprobating mesalliances, and looking little to fortune, which besides is always very small upon both sides. They never leave the paternal roof until they marry; and

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