but this he was unable to effect. The Tontine buildings consist of a suite of apartments for assembly-rooms, and occasionally for dramatic entertainments; part of them is occupied by a news-room and a savings' bank. An enclosed space, called the Mall, adjoining the town, and neatly laid out and planted, affords the citizens a convenient place of recreation in fine weather. The primate's demesne also, near the town, is open for respectable people to walk in; and two of the resident gentlemen have imitated this example by throwing open their pleasure-grounds. The archbishop's mansion is plain in style, but elegant in its architectural proportions, and near it is a private chapel. Barracks in the vicinity afford accommodation for 800 men. Armagh derives its corporate privileges from a charter of James I., in 1613, confirmed by William III. The ruling body consists of a sovereign, 12 burgesses, and an unlimited number of freemen, chosen by the former classes; but at the alteration of the franchise by the Reform Act there were but 2 freemen. It returned 2 m. to the Irish parl. ; but only sends 1 m. to the Imp. parl. The electors are the burgesses and freemen residing within 7 m., and the 107. householders, their number in 1837 being 454. The Reform Act has also laid down a new boundary for electoral purposes, which comprises only 277 acres, whereas the former municipal boundary included 1147 acres. A seneschal's court is held for the archbishop's manor, for pleas of 10. and under, but its jurisdiction does not pervade the whole place, part of the city being in the adjoining manor of Mountnorris. The assizes and general sessions of the peace are held twice a year; a court for insolvent debtors three times a year; and a court of petty sessions every Saturday. The sessions-house is a handsome modern building. The co. gaol, at one end of the Mall, is a plain substantial buildIng, not sufficiently large for the proper accommodation of the numbers confined in it: it has a tread-mill. The committals for a series of years have been as follows: The sentences of those committed in the last-named year, were-death, none; transportation-for life, 3; for 14 years, none; for 7 years, 17; imprisonment-for 3 or 2 years, none; for 1 year, 13; for 6 months, 128; fine, 11 acquitted, or discharged for want of prosecution, 86. The city is the seat of the archdiocese of Armagh, and the residence of the archbishop, styled Primate of all Ireland. His right to this title was long contested by the archbishop of Dublin. The controversy commenced in 1182, and was not terminated until 1634, when the right of precedence, and the style of primate of all Ireland, was confirmed to Armagh, and the inferior style of primate of Ireland given to Dublin. The ecclesiastical prov. comprises the 10 dioceses of Armagh, Clogher, Meath, Down, Connor, Derry, Raphoe, Kilmore, Dromore, and Ardagh; but under the provisions of the late act for regulating the sees of Ireland, the prov. of Tuam is to be consolidated with it on the demise of the existing interests, and to be held by six prelates, according to the following arrangements:-1. Armagh and Clogher; 2. Tuam, Ardagh, Killala, and Achonry; 3. Derry and Raphoe; 4. Down and Connor; 5. Kilmore and Elphin; 6. Meath. The diocese of Armagh is divided into the upper or English part, which includes the cos. of Louth and Meath, and the lower or Irish part, containing Armagh, Tyrone, and part of Londonderry. It extends over 100,563 acres, of which 87,809 are profitable; the annual income, by rents and renewal-fines, is stated to be 17,670., which, on the demise of the present archbishop, is to be reduced to 10,000. The cathedral, a large ancient building, after suffering often by fire and violence, is at present undergoing very extensive repairs. contains several fine monuments: that of Brian Boru, interred in it after the battle of Clontarf, cannot now be traced. A chapel of ease, near the Mall, is consecrated to St. Mark. In the R. Catholic arrangements, the parish is one of those belonging to the archbishop, who resides and has his cathedral in Drogheda. The parish chapel, which is remarkable for its triple roof, is too small for the congregation. There are places of worship for Presbyterians, Seceders, Independents, and two for Methodists. It Armagh has one of the free grammar-schools so liberally endowed by James I. It is a large building, in an enclosed area, with accommodation for 100 resident pupils. The present primate maintains a separate school, for the general education of the boys of the choir. There is a charter school for boys and girls, under the endowment of Mr. Drelincourt; a Lancastrian, a national, and a Sunday school, besides several private establishments; affording together instruction to about 650 pupils in the endowed, and 600 in the unendowed schools, The county infirmary is in the town, the fover hospital and lunatic asylum in its vicinity: the latter, which receives patients from Armagh, Monaghan, Fermanagh, and Cavan, is in an enclosed area of 13 acres, used for the exercise and horticultural employment of the inmates. The building is intended for 122 cases, and there were 116 patients in it at the close of 1837, who were maintained at the annual charge of 2,1887., being an average of 187. 10s. each. The other charitable institutions are, a mendicity asylum, the paupers of which are employed in cleaning the streets; and two loan funds. A bequest for the foundation of a blind asylum has not yet been brought into action. Though little or no manufacture be carried on in the town, Armagh is the centre of a large inland trade, chiefly in grain, linen, and yarn. The linen-hall, a large and well-arranged building, is open for sales on Tuesdays, chiefly for brown linens, the weekly average of which is 8,000 webs, estimated at 12,0001. The weekly sales of yarn at the yarn-market, average 3,500. There are, in or near the town, two distilleries, a brewery, and several tanneries and flour-mills. Markets are held on Tuesdays for linen, yarn, flax, flax-seed, and provisions; on Saturdays, for grain and provisions; and on the first Saturday in every month for cattle. A market-house, with extensive ranges of buildings for the exposure of goods, has lately been erected. The tolls, having been bought up by the inhab., are regulated by a committee; the profits, after clearing off the principal advanced, amounting to 1,7007., together with the interest accruing thereon, are to be expended in the improvement of the town. Fairs are held on the Tuesday after Michaelmas, and in the week before Christmas. The Bank of Ireland and the Provincial Bank have branches here. The chief vents for the goods sold in the fairs and markets, are by the Blackwater, which passes within 4 m. of the town, through Lough Neagh to Belfast, by the Lagan canal, and to Newry by the Newry navigation. The canal now in process of construction between Loughs Neagh and Erne, passes within 1 m. of the city. The amount of Excise duties collected in the Armagh district during the 'undernamed years, was as follows:£ 1832-69,739 £ 1828-84,077 1829 76,157 183078,777 1831-66,516 1833-72,137 1834-76,506 1835-69,076 The general appearance of Armagh is pleasing. Its situation, on the declivity of a high hill, gives it an imposing aspect, and tends considerably to its cleanliness and salubrity. The houses are substantially built; the number of thatched cottages in its suburbs, very inconsiderable. The residence of the primate, and of several of the dignified clergy, together with the immediate vicinity of a number of resident noblemen and gentry, induces an expenditure highly beneficial to all classes, which is still farther increased by the circulation of money by the markets. The habits of the higher classes are social and refined. The working classes suffer little from poverty or want of employment: their dress, both men and women, is substantial; their habitations comfortable, their food above the quality common throughout the country; the fuel, coal, is brought from Great Britain by the canals, or from the collieries in Tyrone: peat is also much used. (Priv. Information.) ARMEGON, a sea-port town of Hindostan, on the coast of the Carnatic, 66 m. N. Madras, lat. 14° Ñ., long. 80° 11' E. An English factory was established here in 1625. ARMENIA, an extensive country of W. Asia, consisting principally of the table land lying between the Kur on the N. and the Kurdistan mountains on the S., having the Euphrates from the ridge of Mount Taurus to Erzingan on the W., and approaching to near the Caspian Sea on the E. But the limits of Armenia differed widely at different periods, and were at no time exactly defined. The flat parts of the country are, probably, not less than from 5,000 to 6,000 feet above the level of the sea, and it is intersected by several lofty mountain chains, the summits of some of which as that of Ararat (see ARARAT) — ascend within the line of perpetual congelation. Armenia gives birth to some large and celebrated rivers, as the Euphrates and Tigris, flowing S. to the Persian Gulph; the Cyrus or Kur, and its important tributary, the Arares or Aras, flowing E. to the Caspian Sea; and the Akampsis or Chorak, flowing N. to the Black Sea. It has three great lakes; those of Van, Shahee or Urmiah, and Goukcha or Sevan. The circumference of the first is estimated at 240 m.; it has several islands; and its waters, though brackish, are drunk by cattle. The other two lakes are also very extensive. The water of that of Urmiah is excessively salt, and so buoyant that one can with difficulty stand where it is 3 feet deep. The soil and products are very various; but in general the former is abundantly fertile, especially in the few spots where it is irrigated. In the higher parts all sorts of corn may be advantageously cultivated; and the valleys produce excellent cotton, tobacco, grapes, &c. The ploughs are all drawn by oxen or buffaloes; no fewer than 8 or 10 of the former being frequently attached to one. The only minerals raised in modern times are copper, iron, and rock salt; but in antiquity the precious metals ranked among its products. Owing to the great elevation of the country, the climate is in most parts rather severe; but though the winters last long, the summer heats are sufficient to bring all the fruits of the earth to perfection. The country is in many parts desert, and is every where very thinly peopled. Besides the Armenians, or old inhabitants, who are principally engaged in agriculture and trade, the population consists of Turks, Persians, and Russians, and wandering pastoral hordes of Turkmans and Koords. The principal towns are Erivan, Erzeroom, Nakchivan, Akhlat, Van, Akhalzikh, &c., which see. dealings, and less prone to practise deceit, than the Greeks. The Armenians are Christians differing but little from those of the Eastern or Greek church. They reject the decrees of the council of Chalcedon, and admit only a divine nature in Christ. Their officiating clergy, or vartabeds, are obliged to marry; but celibacy is enjoined upon those of a higher grade, as patriarchs, bishops, &c. The election of the officiating clergy is in the hands of the people, and is uniformly exercised by them: but, notwithstanding this circumstance, and that the priests have no fixed incomes, but depend entirely on fees and other perquisites, they do not appear to have much influence, or to be very attentive to their duties: they are uniformly almost in the last degree illiterate, and their morals are not represented in the most favourable point of view. (Missionary Researches, p. 243.) Armenia, though it has long since been effaced from the list of nations, was governed, for a lengthened period, The Armenians, with the exception of a small mieither by independent princes or by vassals of the As-nority, do not acknowledge the supremacy of the Pope; syrian and Persian monarchs. It subsequently became but since 1441 have recognised, as their spiritual supe the theatre of long-continued struggles between the rior, the patriarch of Echmiadzin, residing at the famous Persians and Romans; and, notwithstanding the hardiness convent of the three churches, near Erivan, now in posof the inhabitants, and the natural advantages of the session of Russia. The patriarchs of Constantinople country for defensive warfare, it seems never to have and Jerusalem have no authority in ecclesiastical affairs; been able to oppose an effectual resistance to any in- but the Turkish government consider the former as the vader. In the 13th century it was overrun by the head of the Armenian rayahs: through him all applicaMoguls; and in the succeeding century the last trace of tions are received and all orders issued; and he is its independence disappeared, and the Armenians ceased accustomed to receive an annual stipend from the difto have a country. ferent bishops, which was paid him even by the patriarch of Echmiadzin till the latter became a Russian subject. Previously to 1141, the patriarchs of Sis and Athamar (a monastery on an island in Lake Van) shared the spiritual authority with the patriarch of Echmiadzin; and latterly the Porte has been endeavouring to sever the connection between its Armenian subjects and their old spiritual head, now under the control of a foreign power, by directing their attention to, and reviving the pretensions of, the patriarch of Sis, resident within the Turkish territories. (Elliott's Travels, i. p. 470.) The people early began to seek an asylum in foreign parts from the oppression under which they suffered at home, and they are now widely diffused over Turkey, Persia, Russia, and India. Their emigrations have not, however, always been voluntary. In 1604, Schah Abbas, emperor of Persia, in order to protect his dominions on the side of Armenia against the Turks, resolved to carry off the inhabitants, and to lay waste a large portion of the country, so that it might no longer be able to support an army! This monstrous resolution was executed with the most revolting barbarity. The inhabitants, driven off like cattle, perished by thousands, while their houses were burnt down and every vestige of civilisation obliterated. A part of the survivors were settled in one of the suburbs of Ispahan, where they were kindly treated; but the greater number, being settled in an unhealthy part of the prov. of Mazunderan, were soon swept off by disease. Until recently, Armenia was divided between Turkey and Persia; but the former ceded to Russia, by the treaty of Adrianople, a considerable portion of her Armenian territories; and in 1827, Russia acquired the entire prov. of Erivan from Persia. These acquisitions have been consolidated into the government of Armenia. Whatever may be its influence in other respects, there can be little doubt that the occupation of part of Armenia by the Russians will be of singular advantage to its inhabitants. Great numbers of Armenians have already emigrated from the Turkish and Persian provinces to those of Russia, where they have been advantageously settled. The depredations of the petty chiefs and of the wandering tribes will now be effectually restrained; and for the first time for these several centuries, the Armenians will be made aware of the advantages resulting from the security of property, and from living under a strong and (compared with those under which they formerly lived) a liberal and tolerant government. Col. Monteith bears decisive testimony to the benefits that have resulted to Georgia and other Transcaucasian countries from their occupation by Russia. You may now, he says, "travel in perfect security, with post horses, from the mouths of the Phasis to the Kur and the Caspian, through countries where, in 1815, the roads were all but impracticable, and exposed to the unrestrained attacks of robbers and other banditti." (Journal of the Geographical Society, vol. iii. p. 37.) The total number of the Armenian nation is estimated by Mr. Conder at about 2,000,000, of whom about two thirds may be within the Ottoman dominions. With the exception of the Jews, no other people is so much scattered. It is supposed that there are about 200,000 in Constantinople and the adjacent villages; about 40,000 in India; 10,000 in Hungary and the contiguous countries; and they are met with in Africa and even America. Like the Jews, the Armenians found in foreign countries are mostly all engaged in some department of commerce, or of the employments connected therewith. The moment, in fact, that they leave their native soil, they endeavour either to get themselves or their children into some branch of trade. They begin with the lowest departments; the more able or fortunate ascending gradually from one grade to another, till they arrive at that of banker, the summit of their ambition. A large proportion of the foreign and internal trade of Turkey, Persia, Southern Russia, India, &c., particularly the first, is in their hands. They are exceedingly industrious; and, though not free from the vices produced by slavery and ignorance, are honester in their The language of Armenia is harsh, and overloaded with consonants. Besides a great many Indo-Germanic roots, it exhibits numerous relations with the Finnish idioms of Siberia, and other languages of N. Asia. Its grammar is exceedingly complex. The ancient Armenian is no longer spoken, and exists only as a dead language in books: it is so very different from the modern Armenian, that it is no longer understood, except by those by whom it is studied. The modern language is largely made up of Persian and Turkish words; and its grammar, and the construction of its phrases, are totally distinct from those of the ancient language. The alphabet of the Armenians, introduced A. D. 406, and still in use, consists of 38 letters, of which 30 are consonants, and 8 vowels. At an early period, the Armenians had a literature and learned men; and though the great bulk of the nation be now plunged in the grossest ignorance, they continue to this day to possess both, and works of considerable merit are still printed in their language. They have printing-presses at Constantinople, Venice, Moscow, Calcutta, and other places. (For farther particulars, see Tournefort, vol. ii. pp. 389–418.; Jaubert, Voyage en Arménie et en Pers, passim; Smith and Dwight's Missionary Researches in Armenia, with the learned Introductory Discourse by Conder; Colonel Monteith's Paper, in the Journal of the Geographical Society, vol. iii.; and the excellent article by Klaproth, in the Encyclopédie des Gens du Monde.) ARMENT, a village of Upper Egypt, near the left bank of the Nile, m. N. Esné. It occupies the site of the ancient Hermontis. It has in its environs a temple, on the walls of which, among other figures, is a giraffe, an animal now unknown in Egypt. ARMENTIERES, a frontier town of France, dép. du Nord, cap. cant. on the Lys. 13 m. N. W. Lille. Pop. 6,512. It is well built, clean, and handsome; has a communal college; an establishment for spinning cotton; fabrics of table-linen, mattresses, laces, thread, tobacco, &c., with bleaching-grounds, soap-works, distilleries, and a refinery of salt. Large quantities of bricks made in the environs are exported by the Lys, and boats are built for its navigation. It has a celebrated market for seed corn. ARNAU, a walled town of Bohemia, on the Elbe, 18 m. N. E. Gitschim. Pop. 1,400. It has manufactures of linen, bleach-fields, print-works, and copper forges. ARNAY-LE-DUC, a town of France, dép. Coted'Or, cap. cant. near the Arroux, 29 m. S.W. Dijon. Pop. 2,617. It has manufactures of cloth, serges, druggets, &c. On the 25th June, 1570, the great Huguenot leader, Admiral Coligny, defeated near this town the army of the Marshal de Cossé-Gonor. ARNEDO, a town of Spain, prov. Burgos, on the Cidacos, 10 m. S. Calahorra. Pop. 1,600. It is said to have had no fewer than nine parish churches! Good wine is made in its neighbourhood. ARNEE, a town of Hindostan, prov. Carnatic, 74 m. S. W. Madras, lat. 12° 46′ N., long. 79° 23′ E. It has a church, a ARNEMUYDEN, a small town of the Netherlands, | m. S.E. Portalegre. Pop. 3,000. island of Walcheren, 3 m. E. Middelburg. Its port, convent, an hospital, and a workhouse. which was formerly considerable, has been filled up, and ARPAGON, a small town of France, dép. Seine et it is now nearly 2 miles from the sea; with which, how- Oise, 11 m. W. Corbeil. It has tanneries, a brewery, and ever, it is connected by a canal. some trade in flour. ARNHEM, a town of the Netherlands, cap. prov. Guelderland, on the right bank of the Rhine, at the foot of the Veluwe hills, 34 m. E. by S. Utrecht, lat. 51° 58'3 47" N., long. 5° 54′ 45′′ E. Pop. 14,690. It is a fortified place of the first class; its fortifications having been greatly improved and enlarged, in 1702, by the famous engineer Coehorn. The ramparts, planted with elms, afford an agreeable promenade. The town is well built; has a good port on the river, which is crossed by a bridge of boats; and is advantageously situated for trade. It is the residence of a governor, and is the seat of a court of assizes, of a tribunal of original jurisdiction, and a tribunal of commerce; and has a college, a literary society, an agricultural commission, &c. In the church of St. Eusebius are the tombs of the old Dukes and Counts of Guelderland. ARPAIA, a miserable, bleak-looking village of Naples, prov. Principato Ultra, between Capua and Benevento, m. E. Arienzo. It would be unworthy of notice were it not that it is supposed by some to occupy the site of the ancient Caudium, memorable for the great disaster that there befell the Roman arms, anno 311 B. C. But the better opinion seems to be, that the defile situated a little to the N. of Arpaia, between St. Agato and Moiano, is the real scene of this disaster, and the place so celebrated by the name of the Furce Caudina. The Forks consist of a small plane, traversed by a stream, having a narrow outlet at each end, and shut up every where else by continuous and impracticable mountains. A powerful Roman army having unwarily entered this defile, the Samnites immediately blocked up the further outlet; and the Romans, having retraced their steps, found that their enemies had anticipated their movement, by blocking up the pass by which they had entered as well as the other. Caught thus, as it were, in a trap, they were obliged to accept the terms dictated by the Samnitos, who granted them their lives, on their delivering up their arms, and passing one by one half naked under the yoke. (Liv. lib. ix. cap. 1-7.) ARPINO (an. Arpinum), a town of Naples, prov. Terra di Lavoro, 6 m. S. W. Sora. Pop. 9,000. It is agreeably situated on some eminences, has various ARNO, a considerable and celebrated river of Italy (Tuscany), the Arnus of the Romans, has its source in the Appenines, at Mount Falterona, 5 or 6 m. N. Pratovecchio. At first it flows S. to Punte a Buriano; thence N.W. to Pontasiere, where it receives the Sieve; whence it pursues a westerly course, flowing through Florence and Pisa; 7 m. below which it falls into the Mediterranean. Its embouchure was formerly a good deal farther to the S.; but having become obstructed, it was diverted into a new channel cut for it in 1603. Its course may be estimated at from 140 to 150 m. It is na-churches, an hospital, with manufactories of the best turally navigable from the sea to Florence, and has been made navigable from Florence to near its source by means of 27 locks: but its navigation is liable to many obstructions, at certain seasons from floods, and at other seasons from droughts: to guard against the injurious influence of the former, it has been embanked for the greater part of its course. The Val d'Arno, or the country between Florence and Pisa, is one of the richest, best cultivated, and most beautiful of any in Italy. ARNSBERG, a town of Prussian Westphalia, cap. reg. and circ. of the same name, en the Ruhr, by which it is almost encompassed, 57 m. N. E. Cologne. Pop. 4,500. It is the residence of the provincial authorities, and has a court of appeal for the regency, a Catholic gymnasium, an agricultural society, &c. The inhabitants are principally employed in the preparation of potashes, and in distillation. ARNSTADT, a well-built town of Saxony, princip. Schwarzburg Sondershausen, on the Gera, 11 m. S. by W. Erfurth. Pop. 4,500. It has a castle, a college, a cabinet of natural history, and fabrics of cotton and brass, with a considerable trade, in corn, timber, wool, furs, and colonial produce. ARNSTEIN, a town of Bavaria, circle Lower Mayne, on the Werpe, 16 m. N.N.W. Wurzburg. Pop. 2,000. It is the birth-place of the historian Schmidt. ARNSWALDE, a town of the Prussian states, prov. Brandenburg; cap. circle, 19 m. S. E. Stargard. Pop. 3,809. It is nearly surrounded by three lakes well supplied with fish. AROLSEN, a town of the principality of Waldeck, on the Aar, 12 m. N. by W. Waldeck. Pop.1,500. It is the residence of the prince, and the seat of the principal authorities of the province; is well built; has a fine castle, in which is a valuable collection of coins and antiquities, with a library and a picture gallery; there is also a college, grammar school, &c. ARONA, a town of the Sardinian estates, prov. Novara, on the Lago Maggiore, near its southern_extremity, lat. 45° 45′ 53′′ N., long. 8° 34′ 18" E. Pop. 2,000. Its fortifications, which were formerly considerable, were demolished by the French after the battle of Marengo. It is well built, has a gymnasium, an hospital, a collegiate church and 3 others, a port on the lake, with yards for the construction of vessels for its navigation, and a pretty considerable commerce. St. Charles Borromeo was a native of this town; and in 1697 a colossal statue was erected in honour of the saint, by the people of Milan, on a neighbouring eminence. This immense work, the chef-d'oeuvre of Zanelli and Falconi, stands on a granite pedestal 46 feet high, and is itself 66 feet high! The head, hands, and feet are cast; the drapery and book which he holds in his hand are hammered out of sheet copper, set on timber framing: the execution is very fine, particularly the expression of the countenance, looking down upon the world "more in pity than in anger." The attitude of the body is remarkably easy and simple, and the proportions are so good that the idea of a colossus does not enter the mind until a comparison has been made with objects of known dimensions situated near it, such as the travellers every day seen at the foot of the statue. A sort of staircase leads from the bottom to the top of the statue. (Simond's Italy, p. 10.; Conder's Italy, vol. i. p. 310.) ARONCHES, a town of Portugal, prov. Alentejo, 16 cloth made in Naples, paper, and tanneries. This is a very ancient city. Having been wrested from the Samnites by the Romans, it became a municipal town, and its citizens were enrolled in the Cornelian tribe 302 years B. c. (Liv. lib. x. § 1., and lib. xxxvii. § 36., and Cicero pro Cn Planco.) But it is chiefly memorable for being the birthplace of two of the most distinguished men Italy ever produced, Caius Marius, surnamed the third founder of Rome; and M. Tullius Cicero, the prince of Roman orators. The latter frequently alludes to Arpinum in his Letters, and dwells with complacency on the rude and primitive simplicity of its inhabitants." (Cramer's Ancient Italy, vol. ii. p. 114.) In its environs is a paper-mill recently established at an expense of above 11,000Z., and employing 200 workpeople. Balbi says that it produces 60 reams a day, and that the pulp is converted into dried paper in less than a minute! We suspect this is an exaggeration, otherwise it exceeds any thing done in this country; about 3 minutes being required here, in the best mills, for the conversion of pulp into dried paper. (Abrégé, ed. 1837, p. 415.) ARQUA, a town of Austrian Italy, prov. Padua, 12 m. S W. Padua, in the bosom of the Euganean hills. The pop. does not exceed 1,000; and the place would not be worth notice, but for its having been the residence of Petrarch during the latter years of his life, and the place where that great poet and restorer of modern literature breathed his last, on the 19th of July, 1374. "His ashes are preserved in the churchyard of the town, in a sarcophagus of red marble, raised on 4 pilasters on an clevated base, and preserved from an association with meaner tombs." The kindred genius to whom we are indebted for these details, observes : They keep his dust in Arqua, where he died; A feeling more accordant with his strain, Than if a pyramid form'd his monumental fane. "The house in which Petrarch resided is on the edge of a little knoll overlooking two descents, and commanding a view not only of the glowing gardens in the dales immediately beneath, but of the wide plains, above whose low woods of mulberry and willow, thickened into a dark mass by festoons of vines, tall single cypresses, and the spires of towers, are seen in the distance, which stretches to the mouths of the Po and the shores of the Adriatic. The chair in which the poet breathed his last is still shown among the precious relics of Arqua." (Childe Harold, canto iv. § 31. and note 9.) ARQUA, an ancient village of Austrian Italy, on the Castagnaro canal, 5 m. S.S.W. Rovigo. Pop. 2,800. It has some trade in cotton and silk. ARQUENNES, a village of Belgium, prov. Hainault, 13 m. N. W. Charleroi. Pop. 1,500. It has valuable lime and marble quarries. ARQUES, a small decayed town of France, dép. Seine Inférieure, about 3 m. from Dieppe. During the middle ages this was the principal bulwark of Normandy towards the N.; its castle, now in ruins, having withstood several sieges. In the vicinity of this town, in 1589, Henry IV. defeated the troops of the League under the Duc de Mayenne. ARRAN, an island of Scotland, co. Bute, in the arm of the sea between the Mull of Cantire and the Ayrshire coast; being separated from the former by Kilbrannan Sound, and from the latter by the Frith of Clyde. It is 44 m. from the nearest point of the Isle of Bute, 34 m. from the nearest point of Cantire, and 10 m. from Ardrossan point in Ayrshire. It is about 16 m. in length from N. to S., and from 6 to 9 in breadth, comprising about 72,000 acres, of which about 11,000 may be arable. It exhibits a striking contrast in its N. and S. divisions: the former, or that to the N. of Brodick, presenting lofty bare and rugged granite mountains, connected by steep ridges and intersected by deep valleys and ravines. Goatfell, the highest mountain in the island, rises to the height of 2,865 feet above the sea. The S. and largest division of the island is composed of undulating hilly ground, the eminences of which are of a flattened or rounded configuration, and covered with a deep stratum of peat and other alluvial matter. Round the greater part of the coast an almost uninterrupted broad bank or girale of gravel has been formed by the action of the sea, the soft greensward on which affords a pleasant and convenient access along the sea-side. The shores are generally steep and rocky, but high cliffs are not frequent. Three deep bays indent the island,-Ransa on the N. W., and Brodick and Lamlash on the E.: the latter, being defended from the W. gales by Holy Island, 1 m. in length, is one of the best asylums for shipping in the Frith of Clyde. Marble, jasper, agates, cairn-gorms, and a fine species of rock crystal, called the Arran diamond, are met with. The red deer and wild goat, formerly very abundant, are now nearly, if not entirely, extirpated. Cheviot sheep are generally introduced; and the native breeds of cattle and horses are being superseded by the larger and more esteemed breeds of Argyleshire and Ayrshire. Swine are raised in considerable numbers; and the steam boats that touch at the island have opened a new market for fowls and eggs. Grouse and black-cock are very plentiful. The system of agriculture formerly followed in Arran was as bad as can well be imagined; the lands were held jointly by several tenants on the common or run-rig plan (see ARGYLE), and were scourged by a constant course of corn crops, which succeeded each other in a series, unbroken except by the occasional introduction of potatoes, as long as the soil would produce any thing: but, since 1815, the Duke of Hamilton, who is proprietor of nearly the whole island, has laboured strenuously and successfully to introduce a better system; partly by letting farms to individuals for a fixed term of years, excluding subtenants and assignees; partly by introducing conditions into the leases fitted to insure a better system of management; and partly by expending large sums on the building of houses, inclosing, making drains, roads, &c. The people at first were very much opposed to the change; but their prejudices have gradually given way, and they are now for the most part sensible that it has been as advantageous to them as to the proprietor. Since the occupiers have enjoyed possessions each might call his own, they have steadily advanced in habits of industry; and though in this respect they are still behind the tenants and labourers of the mainland, it is believed that in no insular Highland district is greater industry shown than in Arran. There are now a number of large farms inclosed, subdivided, and well cultivated, having valuable stocks of cattle and comfortable farm-steadings, where formerly therewere numerous huts without chimneys or windows, and ridges running in all directions without a single inclosure or subdivision. The general rotation, except on the shores, is, 1. Oats; 2. Green crop-potatoes, turnips, beans or peas, with manure; 3. Bear or bigg, wheat, or oats, often manured; 4. Hay; 5. Pasture grass; 6. Pasture, sometimes grass a year or two longer. On the shores and holms, the rotation is, 1. Oats; 2. Green crop; 3. Bigg or wheat- these often with manure; 4. Hay; and then oats, &c. again. These rotations are not always adhered to by the tenants having the small possessions, but they all sow grass seeds with the corn crop which succeeds the green one; and this of itself necessarily leads to better management than they formerly practised. Wheat to a considerable extent has for a few years past been raised by the tenants of the larger possessions, and a great number of the small tenants also grow from half an acre to two acres each of that grain. By these changes in the mode of possession, and by the improvement of the soil, it will easily be seen that more and better cattle may be reared and supported than formerly, and the produce of milk is also much greater. Since 1822, the Duke of Hamilton has supplied good Argyleshire bulls, at his own expense, for the cattle on his property, keeping always in the island from 20 to 30, placed at convenient distances. The These are the dimensions as given in Joln Arrowsmith's map, It is generally represented as much larger, or from 20 m. to 35 m. iv length, and from 12 m. to 20 m. n breadth. consequence of this arrangement is, that the cattle have been surprisingly improved in every respect. On a few of the larger farms stocks of Ayrshire cows are kept, and succeed very well. The rental of the island amounts to from 11,000l. to 12,000l. a year. A number of boats employed in the herring fishery belong to Kilbride and Brodick, the principal villages. But the herring fishery in the Frith of Clyde and Loch Fyne is not nearly so prosperous at present as it once was. Luckily its decline is little, if any, loss to the island; for, having no considerable town population, the fishery is principally carried on by the cottiers and small farmers, engrossing their attention at the time their services are most necessary on shore, at the same time that it has a tendency to generate and keep alive idle and dissipated habits. Kelp used to be produced in considerable quantities, but its manufacture has now nearly ceased. Most of the woollen cloth formerly used in the island was made by the women, but a good deal is now imported. The yearly export of produce from Arran cannot be given with perfect accuracy; but the following statement is believed to be a pretty near approximation to its quantity and value: A good deal of illicitly distilled whiskey was formerly exported; but that branch of industry, if it may be so called, has all but ceased. Brodick, the principal village, is finely situated, at the bottom of Brodick Bay on the E. side of the island. Near it is Brodick Castle, a seat, and occasional residence, of the Dukes of Hamilton. Though Gaelic be generally spoken, English is understood by every body. it Arran is divided into two parishes. Its population amounted, in 1755, according to Dr. Webster, to 3,646; in 1801 it amounted to 5,179; and in 1831, to 6,427. but is again on the increase. (Anderson's Highlands; declined somewhat during the 10 years ending with 1831; MDonald's Survey of the Hebrides; and Paterson's Account of the Duke of Hamilton's Improvements in Arran, in the Transactions of the Highland Society.) ARRAN (N. ISLES OF), on the W. coast of Ireland, co. Donegal, opposite Dangloe, the most N. extremity of the largest, called Arranmore, being in lat. 55° N., long. with a fixed light elevated 200 feet above high-water 8° 29′ W. A lighthouse is erected on this point, mark. This island contains about 2,000 acres, and nearly 1,000 inhab., the land being divided into the minutest portions, such as a "cow's foot," or the quarter of a cow's grass. They are mostly fishers. On a smaller island, a fishing village, called Rutland, was erected by the Fishing Board, in 1786, but it is now nearly deserted. islands stretching N. W. and S. E., about 12 m. along ARRAN (S. ISLES OF). These consist of three the mouth of Galway Bay, in Ireland, being part of the co. Galway. They contain in all about 7,000 acres; the largest, Arranmore, comprising about 4,607; Innis More, 1,338; and Innis Leer, 909. Pop. 3,191. They are the property of Mr. Digby, and yield a rent of above 2,0007. a year, the tenants paying from 21. to 61. each. They are very fertile, but occasionally suffer from a scarcity of water. The fishing of cod and ling is carried on to a considerable extent, a pier having been constructed at the village of Killancy (pop. 1,000) on the largest island, at the expense of the Fishery Board, for the accommodation of the craft employed. The principal products are fresh and cured fish, oats, feathers, the produce of pullins, a superior kind of yearling calves in great demand by the Connaught graziers; to which were formerly added, great quantities of smuggled whiskey, A lighthouse, with a revolving light, has been erected on the highest point of the largest or most northerly of the islands, lat. 53° 7′ N., long. 9° 40′ W., having the lantern elevated 498 feet above the level of the sea. These islands give the title of Earl to the family of Gore. The inhab., who are very poor, continue in a very primitive state, and the Irish language is universally spoken. (Dutton's Statistical Survey of Galway, p. 2, &c.; Reports on the Fisheries of Ireland, app. p. 104, &c.) ARRAS, a city of France, dép. Pas de Calais, of which it is the cap., on the Scarpe and the Crinchon, 60 m. S. E. Calais, lat. 50° 17′ 54" N., long. 2° 46′ 25′′ E. Pop. 23,485. It is situated in the middle of an extensive and fertile plain: the Scarpe divides it into two parts: it is well built; houses stone; several of Its squares and public buildings handsome, and worthy of notice. Among the latter are the old Gothic church of St Waast, the hôtel of the Préfet, theatre, belfry, barracks, &c. The cathedral, a fine old Gothic building, was destroyed during the revolutionary phrenzy. Arras was fortified, during the reign of Louis XIV., by Vauban. The citadel, which is very strong, is separated fron, the town by an esplanade, but it is included within the line of the works. It is the seat of a bishopric; and has a court of assizes, a tribunal of original jurisdiction, a college, a grand diocesan seminary, a secondary ecclesiastical school, a school of engineering (école régimentaire de génie), an academy of belles-lettres, a literary society, a botanical garden, a school for deaf and dumb, a school of design, a cabinet of natural history and antiquities, a museum of pictures, a public library containing 35,000 volumes, &c. There are establishments for the spinning of cotton, manufactures of cotton stuffs, hosiery, lace, coarse woollen stuffs, and potteries; and fabrics for the preparation of beet-root sugar, soap, starch, beer, rape-oil, &c. The Scarpe becomes navigable at this point. Arras is a very ancient city, and has been the theatre of many sanguinary contests. The revocation of the edict of Nantes gave a severe blow to its manufactures. It also suffered much during the revolution, having been for a considerable time at the mercy of Lebon, a ferocious terrorist, a native of the place. Robespierre, of infamous memory, was also a native of Arras; as was Damiens, the assassin of Louis XV. (Hugo, France Pittoresque, art. Pas de Calais.) ARRAYOLLOS, a town of Portugal, prov. Alentejo, 15 m. N.N. W. Evora, at the foot of a mountain on the summit of which is a citadel. Pop. 1,900. It has some fabrics of stained paper. ARRIEGE, a dep. in the S. of France, on the Spanish frontier, having S. the Pyrenean mountains, E. the dépts. Pyrénées Orientales and Aude, and N. and W. the Ilaute Garonne. Area, 455,000 hectares. Pop. 260,536. This dep. consists principally of the N. slope of the Pyrenees; the mountains, which cover the greater part of its surface, increasing gradually in elevation as they approach its S. frontier; the altitude of the highest summits varying from about 7,000 to about 10,500 feet above the level of the sea. The principal valleys are those of the Arriège and the Salat, the only navigable rivers in the dep. According to the official tables, the cultivable lands occupy about 148,000, meadows 34.000, woods (on the mountains) 90,000, vineyards 11,630, and heaths, wastes, &c. 136,000 hectares. Gold has been found; and there are valuable iron mines near Vic Dessos, and other places. The N. portion is pretty fertile and well cultivated, producing wheat, rye, oats, maize, millet, &c. Horses an inferior breed, and oxen and mules frequently employed in their stead. The total produce of wine is estimated at 115,000 hectolitres a year; but the quality is inferior, and it is wholly retained for home use. The forests have not been taken proper care of; and in many parts, owing to the consumption of the iron furnaces, and the want of sufficient attention, there is a scarcity of wood. The working of metals is the principal branch of manufacturing industry; but there are also manufactures of cloth, serges, floss-silk, cotton stuffs, &c. It returns 3 m. to the Ch. of Dep. Const. in 1838, 806. Public revenue, in 1831, very near 3,000,000 fr. Principal towns, Foix, Massat, Pamiers, &c. (Hugo, France Pittoresque, art. Arriège.) ARROYO-DEL-PUERCO, a town of Spain, Estremadura, 10 m. W. Caceres. Pop. 5,000. It has a parish church, adorned with some good pictures by Morales; with manufactures of cloth and earthenware. ARS-EN-RE', a sea-port town of France, dép. Charente Inférieure, on the W. coast of the Isle de Ré. Pop. 3.609. Salt is produced in its vicinity, and shipped in considerable quantities from its port. ARSIERO, a village of Austrian Italy, prov. Vicenza, 6 m. N. by W. Schio. Pop. 2,400. It has paper fabrics, and a quantity of fine white veined marble. ART, a town of Switzerland, cant. Schwitz, at the S. extremity of the lake of Zug, 7 m. S. Żug, at the foot of mounts Rigi and Rossburg. It is well built. The church of St. George is remarkable for its architecture, and for an immense fountain, formed of a single block of granite. There is a convent of Capuchins, with a good library. The valley of Art is very picturesque and interesting, from its position among the highest mountains of breccia any where to be met with. ARTA, a town of Spain, island of Majorca, on its N. W. angle. Cape Pera, where there is a small fort, depends on it. Pop. 8,000. Its territory, which is very fruitful, produces cotton, and has mill-stone quarries. ARTA, a town of Turkey in Europe, Albania, on the Arta, about 7 m. above where it falls into the gulph of that name. It is a place of considerable size and trade. When visited by Dr. Holland, in 1812, it contained 6 mosques, a large cathedral, and a great number of Greek churches, and was supposed to have a population of about 6,000. It suffered severely during the Greek insurrection; and Lieut. Wolfe, by whom it was visited in 1830, says that, in many places, masses of ruins impeded the passage of the streets, and that an aspect of desolation and misery hung over it. We understand, however, that it has begun to improve. Its population was estimated by Mr. Wolfe at 7,000, at a maximum. It is governed by a bey, under the pacha of Yannina, and is the seat of a Greek bishop. It has manufactures of cottons, woollens, and leather. The floccatas, or shaggy capotes made here, are reckoned very superior. Embroidery is said to be brought to considerable perfection; and all articles of dress from Arta are highly prized. Each trade has its separate street or bazar; but, by a judicious regulation, butchers are obliged to kill, and sell their meat outside the town. The market is abundantly supplied with fruit and vegetables. There is a curious Venetian bridge over the river, consisting of one large and several very small arches. There can be no doubt that Arta occupies the site of the ancient Ambracia. Traces of the ancient walls may be seen in many places, but especially under the more modern remains of the ruined castle: the stones consist of vast quadrangular blocks, so admirably fitted that it is with difficulty the point of a penknife can be inserted between them: no mortar seems to have been used in their construction. There is here, also, the ruins of a convent, built in 845, now converted into a caravansera. (Holland's Travels in Albania, &c., p. 82. 4to ed. ; Wolfe's Observations on the Gulph of Arta, Journal of the Geogr. Society, vol. iii. p. 77.) ARTA (GULPH OF), the Sinus Ambracius of the ancients, is a deep inlet or gulph of the Ionian Sea, between the Turkish province of Albania and the N. W. part of the new kingdom of Greece. The entrance to it, between Prevesa on the N. and the fort of La Punta on the S., is only 700 yards across. The fort now mentioned is built at the extremity of a low, narrow, tongue of land, celebrated in history as the Promontory of Actium. Outside the entrance is a bar, composed of gravel, coarse sand, and sea-weed, with 15 feet water when shallowest. On entering the Gulph, we first come to what is called the Bay of Prevesa, occupying the space between the mouth of the Gulph and Capes La Scoru on the N. and Madonna on the S., and it is only after passing these headlands that the Gulph properly opens. It is a noble sheet of water: its extreme length from W. to E., including the Bay of Prevesa, is about 25 m., and its greatest breadth about 10 m.; but in several places it is a good deal narrower: the depth varies from 13 and 14 to 36 fathoms. The S. shore consists of high land, with bold promontories, clothed with rich and extensive woods; the N. shore is for the most part low, and has encroached considerably on the water. Part of the vast chain of Pindus is seen from the Gulph. It has been long celebrated for the variety and excellence of its fish: red and grey mullet are the most abundant ; and there are plenty of soles, eels, prawns, &c.: sardine fishing is extensively carried on. The entrance to the Gulph of Arta was the scene of one of the most memorable and important conflicts recorded in history. The battle of Actium, which decided the fate of Augustus and Mark Antony, and of the Roman world, was fought off the promontory of that name, at the southern entrance to the Gulph, anno B.c. 29. The exact space occupied by the hostile fleets has been disputed. Most probably the battle raged all round the promontory, but principally on its W. side, or in what is now called the harbour of Prevesa, and the contiguous sea. (See the authorities cited in the previous article, Ferguson's History of the Roman Republic, cap. 35.; Plutarch's Life of Mark Antony, &c.) ARTAGONA, a walled town of Spain, Navarre, 15 m. S. Pampeluna. Pop. 2,000. ARTAKI, a small sea-port town of Turkey in Asia, on the S.W. coast of the peninsula of Cyzicus (which see), Sea of Marmara, 75 m. W. S. W. Constantinople. It has a convenient anchorage. ARTERN, a town of Prussian Saxony, reg. Merseburg, on the Unstrut, 30 m. W. by S. Halle. Pop. 2,400. It has a castle, a brine-spring, and a distillery. ARTHUR'S SEAT, a hill in the immediate vicinity of Edinburgh, on the S. E. side of the city, rising 822 feet above the level of the sea. Its ascent from the latter is gradual and easy; but on the side towards the city, it rises abruptly, and, in parts, almost perpendicularly, from the low grounds. On the S. side of the hill, above the footpath leading from Edinburgh to Duddingstone, is a superb range of porphyritic greenstone columns, from 50 to 60 feet high. The part of the hill nearest Holyrood House is called Salisbury Crags, and, till within these few years, its quarries furnished most part of the paving stones used in London. The view from the top of |