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It has several churches and an hospital; and is supposed | to occupy the site of the ancient Romulea, mentioned by Livy (lib. x. cap. 17.). The bishopric, of which Bisaccia was formerly the seat, has been united to that of St. Angelo de' Lombardi.

BISCARI, a town of Sicily, prov. Syracuse, m. N.W. Modica. Pop. 2,447, having declined 253 between 1798 and 1831. It is of modern date, having been founded in the 15th century.

BISCAY, a district in the N. of Spain, comprising Biscay Proper, Guipuzcoa, and Alava, the three Basque provinces, called by the Spaniards Pais Vascongadas, being part of the Roman provs. of Vasconia and Cantabria. These provs. extend from 1° 46′ to 3° 20′ W. long., and from 420 25 to 43° 27′ N. lat., having E. France and Navarre; W. and S. Burgos, and other parts of Old Castile; and on the N. the Bay of Biscay. Their mean length is about 60 m., and their breadth about 50 m. Area estimated at 2,963 sq. m.; but their limits have varied considerably at different periods. The country may be considered as a prolongation of the declivity of the Pyrenees to the boundaries of Castile. It is broken into highly picturesque glens and valleys, interspersed with some fertile plains. The district has marble of various colours, lime and sandstone, a profusion of iron ore, and some copper and gypsum of good quality, as well as saltmines, and saline and sulphurous cold and hot springs. The following is an account of the area of each prov., and of its pop. in 1803, and (according to Miñano) in 1826:

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1. Biscay Proper, or the lordship of Biscay, has on the N. the ocean on the E. Guipuzcoa; on the S. Alava and Old Castille; and on the W. also Old Castile. Under the new division of Spain, made by the Cortes in 1822, it forms part of the province of Bilbao. The city and territory of Orduña, which are insulated by Alava and Old Castile, belong to it. Bilbao is the seat of government; and there are also Durango, Guernica, Balmaseda, and a few other small towns. Some of the mountains look as if they consisted of a congeries of hills heaped on each other. Gorvega is of this description: it has, on its summit, a considerable extent of level land. Principal rivers, Nerva, Ansa or Ibaizabal, Cadagua, Mundaca, and Lequeitio. The coast is abrupt, and deeply indented by bay's formed by the mouths of the rivers, and by a number of small harbours. The iron mines, which are frequent, and produce some of the best metal in Europe, particularly that at Somorrostro, the ore of which yields above a third part of iron. According to Antillon, the annual produce of this mine used to be 800,000 quintals. Climate humid, but not insalubrious. Houses good, and conveniently built; the upper parts, which were anciently of wood, are now of stone. There are many very ancient châteaux, mostly flanked with strong towers, that belong to the heads of families. With the exception of the towns named above, and a few others, the inhab. live dispersed in caserios of five or six houses each, with lands attached, which are mostly cultivated by the owners, in whose families they have remained for centuries, it being reckoned discreditable to part with the paternal property. Where land is hired, the rent, which is paid in money, usually amounts to about a third part of the value of the produce. The soil is mostly a stiff clay, and would produce little but pasturage or wood, were it not for the patient industry of the inhabitants, who break it up with a curiously shaped implement called a laya; but in lighter soils, where wheat only is grown, they use a strong plough. As arable land is scarce, they break up patches on the slopes of the mountains, where the ground, not being deep enough for the growth of large trees, is covered with thick shrubs. These they grub up and burn, and spreading out the ashes, get fertile crops of wheat the first three years; barley, or rye, the fourth; flax, the fifth; and good pasturage till the ground be again overgrown by brambles. They do not, however, notwithstanding their industry, reap grain enough for their consumption, but supply the deficiency by importations from Alava. Next to agriculture, the chief employment of the peasantry is in the making of charcoal for the iron foundries, from the wood cut in the forests, with which the sides of the mountains are covered. These contain plantations of excellent white oak, and in the glens and valleys are numerous groves of grafted chestnuts, which furnish a considerable article of exFort. The grapes are not good: there is a great pro

fusion of apples, with pears, cherries, figs, &c. Cattle small and hardy; sheep difficult to rear, from their getting entangled in the brambles; the wild boar is occasionally seen, as are wolves and bears; though both are very rare, especially the last. Fish abundant and excellent.

The staple business of Biscay Proper, and the other two provs., is the manufacture of iron, which is made into a great variety of tools and implements; but owing to the suspension of work in the royal arsenals, the loss of the American colonies, and the introduction of foreign iron, as well as the long wars of which this country has been the theatre, this important branch of industry has greatly fallen off. The Spanish Academy of History say that, in 1802, when their account of Biscay was compiled, there were 180 iron works, producing annually 80,000 quintals of iron, of 155lbs. each, which, when Miñano wrote (1826), were reduced to 117 works, yielding only 45,000 quintals. Copper boilers were also made at Balmaseda, and factories for cordage and rigging, made of hemp brought from Aragon and Navarre, were established in various parts; and tanneries at Balmaseda and Bilbao; but these, also, are much fallen off. The other manufactures are those of coarse porcelain, table and other household linen, fine and coarse hats, braziery, carpentry and joiners' and cabinet work, straw and rush chairs, tallow candles, &c. The people near the coast occupy themselves a good deal in fishing, and the exports of dried fish are sometimes very considerable. (See Diccionario por la Real Academia, ii. 487.; Miñano, x. 41-44.)

2. Guipuzcoa has the seignory of Biscay on the W.; Alava on the S.; Navarre and the Bidassoa, which separates it from France, on the E.; and the Bay of Biscay on the N. Since 1822 it has been called the prov. of St. Sebastian. The country is rough and mountainous. The highest mountain on the frontiers of Alava rises 1,800 ft. above the sea, and contains some salt mines and saline springs. The prov. is watered by the Deva, Urola, Oria, &c., and the Bidassoa, which all run N. into the Bay of Biscay. The coast is rocky, and the ports insecure, with bars at their entrances, except Pasages, which has deep water, and is spacious and well fortified. At Mondragon, on the Deva, is a celebrated iron mine; the ore yields no less than 40 per cent. of metal. At Vergara is a college, where the young nobility are educated, and other useful institutions. On the N. of this, at Placencia, is a royal manufactroy of fire-arms.

Guipuzcoa yields to no part of Spain in the magnificence of its ecclesiastical and other buildings. The roads are well paved, and kept in good repair; the inns commodious, and well conducted. Climate soft and temperate; but, like the other provs., it is subject to heavy rains and violent storms, both in summer and winter. The prov. produces most kinds of grain and other necessaries, but not in nearly sufficient quantities for the support of its inhab. Fruits and other natural products nearly the same as in Biscay. The fish, including salmon, are excellent; and tunny, rays, and sardines, are supplied to the neighbouring provs. The grapes, though indifferent, furnish the light wine called chacoli. A good deal of cider is also produced. The growth of timber in the woods and plantations is not equal to the consumption of the iron works. Agricul ture nearly the same as in Biscay.

Iron may be had in any quantity. According to Antillon (Géographie Physique, p. 85.), 100,000 quintals used to be annually wrought up into hinges, nails, horseshoes, boilers, kitchen utensils, arms, anchors, working tools, &c. They make, also, fishing tackle, rigging, tanned leather, coarse cloths of goats' hair, coarse linen and sail-cloth. Ship-building has lost its activity, but some vessels are fitted out for the cod and whale fisheries.

Guipuzcoa imports what grain it wants from Alava; wine, from Navarre and Rioja; soap, oil, flax, &c., from Castile and Andalusia; woollens, cottons, cloths, silks, jewellery, and articles of fashion, from England, Holland, and France. It exports little native produce but iron, hardware, and fruits; but wool, and sometimes corn, are brought from the interior to its ports for shipment. Formerly, it had a considerable coasting trade to the shores of the Mediterranean, and a large share of the whale fishery and the cod fishery at Newfoundland. The famous Caracas Company originated here. Its commerce has fallen off since 1809. Being a frontier prov., it admits the royal troops to garrison its strong posts. (Diccionario por la Academia, i. 321.; Miñano, iv.; Antillon, p. 85.)

3. Álava has the seignory of Biscay and Guipuzcoa on the N.; Navarre on the E.; and Old Castile, from which it is divided by the Ebro, on the S. and W. It now forms a principal part of the prov. of Vitoria, the name of its chief town. The other towns are Salvatierra, Lequiana, and Gamboa. It is surrounded and intersected by mountains, similar to those in the other Basque provs.,

and affording the same products of iron, black and red marble, gypsum, &c. They are covered with oaks, wild apple trees, thorns, box, yews, limes, hollies, &c. The crops of grain exceed the demand of the inhab. Climate cold and damp, with long winters, frequent and heavy rains, snow, frosts, fogs, and mists; but it is healthy, and the inhab. strong and long-lived. Agriculture is the chief pursuit. In some parts they plough with oxen, as in Navarre; and in others, use the laya, as in Biscay and Guipuzcoa, weeding the ground repeatedly till it looks like a garden. The iron-works are greatly reduced in consequence of the destruction of the forests which supplied them with fuel, and of the weight of the duties paid on iron taken into Castile. nufactories of hats, shoes, boxes, &c., are also in a state of decay, but a good many hands are occupied in the manufacture of table linen and coarse cloths. They also make a good deal of salt. (Diccionario por la Academia, i. 13. Miñano, i. 54.; Antillon, p. 92.; Journal of the British Legion by a Staff Officer, p. 155.)

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The Basques have a peculiar language, which is undoubtedly of great antiquity. Lécluse, in his Grammaire Basque, endeavours to trace it to the Hebrew, as a dialect of the Phoenician, brought to Carthage, and thence to Spain; and attempts by its means to interpret the speech of Hanno in Plautus! From the supposed prevalence of Basque names of mountains, plains, forests, rivers, and towns in every part of Spain and Portugal, it has been concluded that the Basques once pervaded the whole peninsula. They have no alphabet of their own, but learned men write the language with Roman letters. Its chief characteristics are its similarity to the Hungarian and Turkish, in its inversion of the order of its particles, and its unparalleled variety of verbal inflections. Their only books are the New Testament, printed at Rochelle in 1571, some devotional tracts. catechisms, national poetry, dictionaries, and vocabularies. They count by twenties up to a hundred, and seem originally to have had but three days in their week, there not being ancient names for more. Few natives, except the gentry, know any language other than the Basque. It is also spoken, with some variation, in part of Navarre, as well as by the French Basques. (Lécluse, Grammaire Basque, p. 2, 3. 14. 26. 28. 219.; W. Humboldt, Prüfung der Untersuchungen über die Urbewohner Hispaniens, &c.)

The government of these provinces has had, from the earliest times, a republican form. The people choose the members of the ayuntamientos, or municipal corporations, who, again, elect the deputies to the provincial assemblies, which meet every two years in Biscay, once a year in Guipuzcoa, and twice a year in Alava, to provide for the interior administration of their respective provinces, to vote the supplies, and to determine the appropriation of the money granted. Each assembly chooses a magistrate, in whose hands the executive power is placed when the juntas are not sitting, and who treats on equal terms with the corregidores, or ambassadors, appointed by the king of Spain to reside in each prov., but who must not, on any account, be natives of these provinces, nor exercise any authority in them. The people choose, also, the tax-collectors, and pay their civil officers moderate salaries for their services. Their taxes are light, and levied according to a valuation, which is frequently modified. Their ancient privileges, or fueros, order that they shall not be taxed by the Spanish government, except in a small sum, paid by Guipuzcoa and Alava, continuing at about 5407. sterling, the amount paid in the 14th century. But Biscay is free from this, and pays a larger sum every four or five years under the name of donativo or gift.. They have no monopolies nor custom-houses, every article being imported duty free. They are also free from the conscription and impressment to which every other part of Spain is subject; but, in case of foreign invasion, they are bound to defend their frontiers without the king's troops. Another of their important privileges is that of being exempted from torture, or threat of torture, direct or indirect, on any pretence whatever, within Biscay or out of it. Fuero Sit. Ley, xil.) On the other hand, they have always been prohibited from trading directly with the Spanish colonies, and are shut out from a free trade with the rest of Spain, by heavy duties and a line of custom-houses all along the Ebro; and are also obliged to resort to the court of chancery at Valladolid, for the decision of their lawsuits. Their financial system seems to have been well managed, since the price of the Alava 3 per cent. debt, before the breaking out of the present civil war, was 93; and in Biscay and Guipuzcoa, the extra taxes imposed during the French invasion were being refunded to the contributors. Foreigners, not of the Catholic religion, cannot establish themselves in any line of business in the Biscay provinces. (Diccionario Geografico por la Real Academia de la Historia, Madrid, 1802, ii. 488--510.; El Fuero Privilegios, &c. de Vizcaya, Medina del Campo, 1575; Spain past and present, Monthly Chronicle, November, 1838, p. 440.)

The Biscayans being devoted to agriculture, navigation,

and commerce, and having little inequality of condition, possess those virtues that are seldom found united with ease and riches acquired without toil. They are honourable, brave, cheerful, and courteous, without being mean. They are also docile, when well treated; but, if roused by ill usage, are stubborn and inflexible. In general, they retain the dress, customs, and simplicity of manners, as well as the institutions of the 13th century; and pride themselves on their independence, and the antiquity of their lineage. The women, who are robust, assist the men in their severest labours. Not only the in-door, but the out-door, work of the house is done by female servants; and even señoras, delicately brought up, may be seen in their walks climbing the rocks with no other protection than a parasol. (Diccionario por la Real Academia, ii. 484.; Miñano, i. 326.)

Some of

They are very fond of dancing, and assemble every Sunday afternoon to enjoy that amusement. their dances are of a grave, majestic, and ceremonious character; others, gay and lively. They also delight in bull-fights, and play much at a game with a ball, called pelota, for which public sites are every where appropriated, At their weddings they discharge guns and pistols, on entering and quitting the church. Some villages distribute bread and cheese, wine and walnuts, at their fumerals; some beg money for masses for the soul of the deceased. They are sober, but are fond of good living. They dress with a blue cap, red sash, and alpargates, or hempen sandals, tied on with blue or red ribands; and in wet weather, espadillos, or brogues of hide. The women dress as in Castile; the married wear a thin muslin handkerchief, tied on the head, like the Irish; the girls wear their hair braided down their backs. There are theatres at Bilbao and Vittoria, where plays and operas are performed; and the upper classes follow the fashions of France and the rest of Europe. (Diccionario per la Real Academia de la Historia, i 326.; Bowles, p. 206. ; Henningson's Campaign in Navarre and the Basque Provinces, p. 72.)

Little is known of the early history of the Basques before the time of the Romans, or during the ascendancy of the Goths and Saracens; by all of whom the country was partially over-run. The Spanish Academy of Listory says, there is no reason to suppose that any family ever had that absolute sovereignty over it that has been supposed, but that its rulers were subject to the Spanish kings of Asturias, Navarre, and Castile, like the rest of the principal señors of the kingdom, with the exception of that difference which arose from the great power of the family of Haro, who held the lordship for many years. In 1332, the deputies of the three provinces offered the dignity to Alphonso XI., king of Castile, who accepted the lordship; but before the grant was executed, the most formal reserves were made of their franchises and privileges, and the king was obliged to sign a treaty, one of the articles of which was, that the Castilian monarch should never possess any village, fortress, or house, on the Basque territory. Their country has been the scene of frequent and long-con inued wars with foreign nations, and is now the principal theatre of a destructive civil conflict. Though republican in all their institutions, they are much attached to the Spanish dominion. (Diccionario por la Academia, ii. 488–508.; Monthly Chronicle, art. Spain past and present, Nov. 1838.)

BISCEGLIA, a sea-port town of Naples, prov. Terra di Bari, on a rocky promontory, on the Adriatic, 12 m. E.S.E. Barletta; lat. 41° 14' 34 N., long, 16° 31′ E. Pop. 10,000. It is surrounded by lofty stone walls, and is ill built it is the seat of a bishopric, has a cathedral, 2 collegiate and some other churches, convents for both sexes, a public school, an hospital, a mont-de-piété, and a fine theatre. Its port admits only small vessels, and it has little trade. It has numerous reservoirs and cisterns cut in the solid rock, and arched over, for the collection and preservation of the rain water, the place being entirely destitute of springs. It is supposed by some to be the Natiolum of the Peutingerian tables, but other critics contend that its ancient name was Vigilie. Swinburne says that it is destitute of any remains of antiquity. (Swinburne's Two Sicilies, i. 185. 4to. ed.; Craven's Naples, p. 93.; Dict. Géographique, &c.)

BISCHOFSBURG, a village of the Prussian States prov. E. Prussia, on the Dimmer, 15 m. S.S.W. Rossel. Pop. 2,000.

BISCHOFSTEIN, or BISCHSTEIN, a town of the Prussian States, prov. E. Prussia, reg. Königsberg, on a marshy lake, 47 m. S. by E. Königsberg. Pop. 2,200. It has 2 Catholic churches, a high school, fabrics of cloth and stockings, with distilleries, breweries, &c.

BISCHWEILLER, a town of France, dép. Bas Rhin, cap. cant., on the Mcder, 15 m. N. Strasburg. Pop. 5,854. It was once fortified; but the works were destroyed by the Imperialists in 1706. It manufactures coarse woollen and linen cloths, woollen gloves, pottery, tiles, and bricks, and has woollen mills, madder mills, tanneries, &c.

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BISENTO, a town of Naples, prov. Abruzzo Ultra I., cap. cant., in a valley, 10 m. N.W. Civita-di-Penne. Pop. 2,000. It has several churches, a dyework for cloth, and fairs on May 16. and 17.

BISHOPS-AUCKLAND, a market-town and township of England, co. Durham, N. W. div. Darlington ward, par. St. Andrew Auckland, 10 m. S.W. Durham. Area of township, 2,570 acres. Pop. 2,859, of which the town may have about 2,000. The latter, which is well built, stands on an eminence, having the Wear on the N., and the Gaunless on the S. E. The par. church is about 1 m. distant; but there is a chapel of ease in the town, and the Methodists, Independents, Quakers, &c. have also chapels. There is here a grammar-school founded by James I., and farther endowed by several prelates; a school on the Madras system for 200 boys, and a school for girls, both founded by Bishop Barrington, &c. The town owes its importance, and, perhaps, existence, to its having at its N.E. end the magnificent castle or episcopal palace of the bishop of Durham. The building is of great extent, has a fine chapel built by Bishop Cosins, and some good pictures. The park includes about 800 acres.

BISHOP'S CASTLE, a par., bor., and town of England, co. Salop, hund. Parslow, 144 m. N.W. by W. London. Area, 6,000 acres. Pop. of par., 1821, 1,870; 1831, 2,007; of which the town had 1,729. It stands on the slope of a hill, near a small branch of the Clare. There are some good houses, in detached situations; but the greater part of the town is irregularly, and meanly built, of unhewn stone. The church (originally a fine structure of the Norman period) was partly destroyed in the last civil war, and subsequently restored. There are several dissenting places of worship, and a free school, educating 50 boys and girls. The townhall, built in 1750, contains prisons for criminals and debtors: both this and the market-house are good brick buildings. A weekly market is held on Friday, and annual fairs, Feb. 13., Friday before Good Friday, Friday after May 1., July 5., Sept. 9., and Nov. 13. That in May is a pleasure, and that in July a wool fair; the rest are for cattle. Both the fairs and markets are much resorted to by the Welsh, who are the chief supporters of the town. The ann. value of the real prop. in 1815 was 8,2487. A charter of the 26th of Elizabeth conferred on the corporation the privilege of returning 2 mem. to the H. of C., which it exercised till the passing of the Reform Act, when it was disfranchised. Its local limits were extensive, having a circ. of 15 m. Its name is derived from an ancient castle of the bishops of Hereford, which has been long demolished: the site of it, however, may still be traced. BISHOP'S STORTFORD, a par. and town of Eng. land, co. Hertford, hund. Branghin, on the Stort, 26 m. N.N.E. London. Area, 3,080 acres. Pop. of par., 1821, 3,358; 1831, 3,958. The greater part of the town stands on the slope of a hill, on the W. side of the river, and consists of two lines of street, intersecting each other at right angles, and forming a cross. It is on the whole well built, and has several good inus. The church stands on an eminence, and has a fine tower. There is a national school for 300 children, and a public library. It has an excellent market-house (built at the intersection of the streets, in 1828, with an Ionic front), which contains a large hall, used as a corn-exchange, over which are assembly and magistrates' rooms. The weekly market is on Thursday, and three annual fairs are held on Holy Thursday; Thursday after Trinity Sunday, and 10th October. The malting and corn trades constitute the chief business of the town, for which there are convenient wharfs along the river and the canal (both of which are contiguous to it); and being in the centre of a good corn district, the trade is considerable. There is also a silk-mill, which employs many hands. The ann. value of real prop. in 1815 was 8,930. Under the Poor Law Amendment Act it is the union town for 20 pars. its own rates average 1,2317. Is. Petty sessions are held every fortnight by the co. magistrates: it is also a polling town for Herts.

BISHOP'S WALTHAM, a par. and town of England, co. Southampton, div. Portsdown, hund. of Bishop's Waltham, 62 m. S. W. by W. London. Pop., in 1821, 2,126; 1831, 2,181: houses at the latter date, 438. It is situated by the Hamble (a small stream rising 1 m. from the town) in the vicinity of Waltham Forest. It has a good church, an endowed charity school for 36 boys, and a national school for 160 boys and girls. It has a weekly market on Friday, and annual fairs, on 2d Friday in May, July 30., and Friday following Old Michaelmas-day. Leather-dressing is the chief trade of the town, which is mostly disposed of at its own fairs, and those of the neighbourhood. There is also some malting business carried on. It is a polling town for the northern division of the county. The ann. value of real prop., in 1815, was 4,8097. The ivy-covered ruins to a fine old castle are in the immediate vicinity. If originated in the reign of Stephen, but owed its sub

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sequent magnificence to William of Wykenam. It was demolished by the parliamentary army in the last civil BISHOP-WEARMOUTH. (See SUNDERLAND.) BISIGNANO (an. Besidia), a town of Naples, prov. Calabria Citra, cap. cant., 15 m. N. Cosenza. Pop. 10,000. It is defended by a castle situated on the highest of the 7 hills by which it is surrounded; is the seat of a bishopric; has a fine cathedral, numerous churches, a nunnery, several convents, 2 hospitals, and a house of refuge. Large quantities of silk-worms are reared in the vicinity.

BISSAGOS, a group of small volcanic islands, on the W. coast of Africa, opposite the embouchure of the Rio Grande, between 10 and 120 N. lat., and 1540 and 1640 W. long. The largest is about 15 m. in length, and some of them are uninhabited. The inhab., who are described as brave and treacherous, raise some maize, but are principally dependent on their cattle, goats, and fishery. BISZTRITZ, a free royal town of Transylvania, cap. district, in a fine valley, on the Bisztritz; lat. 470 5' 46' N., long. 24° 32′ 18′′ E. Pop. 6,500. It is fortified, has a gymnasium, two schools, and two hospitals, with a considerable trade in cattle.

BITCHE, a town and fortress of France, dép. Moselle, cap. cant., at the foot of the Vosges, 15 m. E.S.E. Sarguemines. Pop. 3,077. The fortress or citadel stands on an almost inaccessible rock rising from the middle of the town. The interior of the rock is vaulted and casemated; the fort mounts 80 pieces of cannon, may be garrisoned by 1,000 men, is well supplied with water, and is looked upon as next to impregnable. The town, formerly called Kaltenhausen, is built at the foot of the rock, surmounted by the citadel, near a large shallow lake or mere, where the Horne has its source. It produces different sorts of fine pottery. The glass-works of Munsthal, in the vicinity, furnish flint glass of the value of 600,000 fr. a year. (Hugo, art. Moselle.)

BITETTO, a town of Naples, prov. Terra di Bari, in a very fertile plain on the Adriatic, 10 m. S.W. Bari. Pop. 5,000. It is the seat of a bishopric; has a cathedral, remarkable for its pictures and marbles, and several convents.

BITONTO (an. Butuntum), a town of Naples, prov. Terra di Bari, cap. cant., in a fine plain, 10 m. W.S.W. Bari; lat. 41° 13' N., long. 16° 42′ E. Pop. 12,000. Swinburne says that it is a fine town, and that the inhabitants are much easier in their fortunes, and more polished and improved in their manners, than those that dwell in the cities along the coast. It is the seat of a bishopric; has a fine cathedral, 12 parish churches, convents for both sexes, an hospital, and a nunnery. The environs produce a wine called sagarillo, said to be excellent, and in which the town trades extensively. In 1734 the Spaniards, under the Count de Mortemar, gained, in the vicinity of this town, an important victory over the Austrians. (Swinburne's Two Sicilies, i. 397.; Rampoldi, &c.)

BITRITTO, a town of Naples, prov. Terra di Bari, 7 m. S. Bari. Pop. 2,500. It has a fine collegiate church, and its territory is celebrated for its wines and almonds.

BITTBURG, a town of the Prussian States, prov. Lower Rhine, cap. circle, 18 m. N.N.W. Treves. Pop. 2,000. It has a castle, two Catholic churches, and some trade in corn and cattle.

BITTERFELD, a town of the Prussian States, prov. Saxony, reg. Mersebourg, cap. circle, 16 m. S. Dessau. Pop. 3,400. It was founded by a colony of Flemings, whose descendants are said to hold their property in common, and to be governed by peculiar laws. It has fabrics of cloth and earthenware.

BIZERTA, or BENZART (an. Hippo Diarrhytus, or Zaritus), a sea-port town of Tunis, at the bottom of a deep gulph or bay (Sinus Hipponensis), on a channel uniting the gulph with an internal lake or lagoon, 40 m. N.W. Tunis; lat. 37° 17′ 20′′ N., long. 9° 50′ 35 E. Pop. variously estimated at from 8,000 to 14,000. It is about 1 m. in circ., and is defended by walls, and two castles; but as the latter are commanded by a height within a short distance, it could oppose no effectual resistance to an army attacking it by land. Though it has a good appearance at a distance, it is, like most other Turkish towns, really mean and filthy. Its port, which now only admits small vessels, was formerly one of the best in the Mediterranean, and might easily be restored, in this respect, to its ancient pre-eminence. The channel on which the town is built has in parts five and six fathoms water, and it might, with no great labour, be every where deepened to that extent. The lake, or inner harbour, is of great extent, with a depth of water varying from ten to fifty fathoms, and is capable of accommodating the largest navies. The country round is also exceedingly fertile; so much so that, notwithstanding its neglected state, large quantities of corn are occasionally exported from Bizerta. There cannot therefore be a doubt that

were this town and the adjacent country in the possession of any European power, it would speedily become one of the greatest emporiums and most flourishing districts on the Mediterranean. But no improvement need be looked for so long as it is permitted to remain in the power of its present barbarous masters. (Shaw's Travels, p. 75.; Modern Traveller, xx. 265, &c.) BLACKBURN, a market-town and parl. bor. of England, co. Lancaster, hund. and par. of Blackburn, on an affluent of the Ribble; 183 m. N.W. by N. London, 31 m. N.E. Liverpool, 21 m. N. W. by N. Manchester, 11 m. N. by W. Bolton, and 9 m. E. by S. Preston. The progress of pop. has been as follows:

1770. Town 5,000 Parish

1801. 11,980 33,631

1811.

15,083

39,899

1821.

21,940
53,350

1831. 27,391 59,791

12th May, and 17th Oct.; and for cattle, on the alternate Wednesdays from the beginning of February to Michaelmas. The banking establishments are, branches of the Commercial Bank of England, and of the Manchester and Liverpool District Bank; a private banking-house, and a savings' bank.

"In the early stages of the cotton manufacture," says Mr. Baines, "the inhabitants, in general, were indigent, and scantily provided (and this is still the case so far as the hand-foom weavers are concerned); but decisive proofs of wealth now appear in this place on every hand handsome new erections are continually rising up; public institutions for the improvement of the mind, and the extension of human happiness, are rapidly increasing; and this place, at one time proverbial for its rudeness and want of civilisation, may now fairly rank, in point of opulence and intelligence, with many of the principal towns in the kingdom.'

59,791 inhabitants.

The town, situated on a rivulet, called in Domesday Book "Blackeburne," was, with the surrounding district, The parish of Blackburn extends over 45,620 acres ; a manor during the reign of William the Conqueror, who granted it to Ibbert de Lacy. A castle, of which no trace it includes 23 townships and chapelries; and had, in 1831, exists at present, is said by Whitaker to have been a sta(See Baines's Hist. Lancashire; tion of the Romans, and of the Saxons. Camden and Whitaker's Hist. of Whalley; Parl. Reports and ReBlome both notice it as a thriving market-town in their turns; Holt's Gen. View of Lancashire.) days. The eminences in the vicinity are naked, and in BLACKHEATH, an elevated moory tract, in the viwinter the place has a dreary aspect. It is irregularly cinity of the British metropolis, which gives name to the built, owing partly to its antiquity, and partly to the in-hund. in which it is situated, in the lath of Sutton-attermixture of glebe and other lands, the tenures of Holme, co. Kent. The greater portion is in the parish which interfered with a better arrangement of the of Greenwich, but it also extends into those of Charlton, avenues. It is well paved and lighted, under the pro- Lewisham, and Lee, and is 14 m. in an E. and W. divisions of a late act; but is badly supplied with water. rection, and about half that N, and S.; from St. Paul's The parish church of St. Mary, originally built before to the nearest part is about 5 m. S.E. It commands the Conquest, was rebuilt on a new site in 1819, at an ex- many fine prospects, and has numerous elegant villas. pense of 26,000Z.; it is in the Gothic style, contains 2,000 There are two episcopal chapels, one in the parish sittings, of which 700 are free; and in boldness, symme- also two preparatory and several private schools. of Lewisham and one in the liberty of Kidbrook, try, and correctness of design, is said to be surpassed by On the E. side is Morden College, a quadrangular but few ecclesiastical structures. It sustained some injury, which was soon after repaired, from a fire in 1831. structure, founded in 1708, for decayed merchants; its There are three other episcopal churches, viz. St. John's, revenue is about 5,000l. a year, in the hands of seven built by subscription; St. Peter's, by a parl. grant; and trustees, who nominate the pensioners, and appoint the St. Paul's, originally a dissenting chapel of Lady Hun- treasurer and chaplain: there are about 40 supported, tingdon's connection. The Methodists, Baptists, Inde- each of whom receives 51. a month, and has a separate pendents, and Roman Catholics, have each two places apartment; but they eat at a of worship; the Swedenborgians and Society of Friends, are admissible under 50 years of age. one each. A free grammar-school, founded in the time (Watling Street), from London to Dover, traverses of Elizabeth, and endowed with lands now producing the heath, nearly in the direction of the modern line: about 1207. annually, educates 30 pupils; Leyland's there are some large ancient tumuli on it. In the 11th charity school, 90 girls; and in the national school 600 century the Danes (whose fleet lay off Greenwich) were children of both sexes are instructed. Altogether, up- encamped on the heath some months, whence they made wards of 5,000 children receive the rudiments of edu- many excursions; in one of which Canterbury was cation in public seminaries of various descriptions. The sacked, and the archbishop carried off, and afterwards killed. Independents' theological academy educates candidates Wat Tyler, and subsequently Jack Cade, took for the ministry of that religious persuasion. The pub- up positions with their followers on it; as did the lic buildings, with the exception of those applied to Cornish rebels, under Lord Audley, defeated with great theological purposes, are few in number, and consist slaughter by Henry VII. Thither also, in former times, principally of a small neat theatre, and a cloth-hall. It the lord mayor and corporation, and, occasionally, the has a dispensary and a lying-in institution, a horticultural king and his court, were wont to go, when illustrious society, and two weekly papers. personages were to be welcomed to the capital. (Hasted's Kent, &c.)

The Reform Act conferred on Blackburn the privilege of returning 2 mem. to the H. of C. The bor., which is identical with the township, comprises 3,610 acres; and had, in 1831, 4,802 houses, of which 623 were worth 107. a year and upwards. Registered electors in 1837-38, 842.

The manufacture of a kind of cloth made of linen warp and cotton woof, each partly of dyed thread, giving the web a chequered appearance, and thence called Blackburn cheque, was carried on here in 1650. It was afterwards superseded by that of Blackburn greys, consisting also of linen and cotton, so called from their being printed in an unbleached state. James Hargreaves, a working carpenter, the inventor of the spinning-jenny, the first great step in that wonderful career of invention and discovery that has raised the cotton manufacture to its present unexampled state of prosperity, was a native of Blackburn. In 1767 he produced the jenny; but instead of meeting with the countenance and support due to his singular deserts, he was driven out of the town, and eventually out of the county; and it was not till about 1810 or 1812 that the people of Blackburn began largely to embark in the cotton trade, and to avail themselves of the discoveries that had originated in their town. Now, however, spinning of the coarser kind of calicoes, and their weaving by the power-loom, constitute the staple trade of the place: coarse muslins continue to be wrought by the hand-loom. In 1831, the number of spinners and weavers in the town was estimated at 15,000, and the value of the goods produced at about 2,000,000/. Since then the manufacture has increased at least a third, so that the value of the goods will be little short of 3,000,0002. The abundance of coal raised from the coal-field a few m. to the S. has largely contributed to the progress of manufactures. They have also been much facilitated by the Liverpool and Leeds Canal, which passes close to the town. Markets are held on Wednesdays and Saturdays, in an inconvenient place: fairs for cloth, in the cloth-hall, on Easter-Monday, 11th,

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BLACK SEA (the Euxine, or Пevros Eužuvos of the Greeks and Romans), a large internal sea lying between the S. W. provinces of Russia in Europe and Asia Minor, extending from 40° 50′ to 46° 45′ N. lat., and from 273 25 to 400 48 E. long. It is bounded on the N. and N. W. by the Russian provinces of Taurida, Kherson, and Bessarabia; on the N.E. and E. by the Caucasian countries Circassia, Mingrelia, and Imeritia; on the S.E. and S. by Armenia and Asia Minor; and on the W. by the Turkish governments of Rumelia and Bulgaria, Its extreme length from E. to W. is upwards of 700 m.; its greatest width, on the 31st meridian, 400 m; E. from this it narrows by the projection of the Crimea, and the advance of the opposite shore of Asia Minor, to 154 m.; again it widens to 265 m. between the Strait of Yenikale and the Gulph of Samsun, but from the last point it constantly and rapidly diminishes, till its E. coast (running due N. and S.) does not exceed 60 m. in width. Its surface is estimated at about 160,000 sq. m., and its coast line, including its sinuosities, considerably exceeds 2,000 m. (Chevalier, l'oy. de la Propon. et du Pont Eux. p. 329.; Jones's Travels, i. 383.; Rennell's Comp. Geog. of W. Asia, ii. 277.; Arrowsmith's Atlas.)

The Black Sea is connected with the Sea of Azoph by the Strait of Yenikalé (an. Bosphorus Cimmerius), and with the Sea of Marmara, by the Channel of Constantinople (an. Bosphorus Thracius). With these exceptions, it is wholly isolated. It is also much more compact in form than most other large bodies of water; giving off no great limbs, like the Baltic, Mediterranean, &c., and having very few even moderately-sized gulphs. The most important, that of Kirkinit (the Carcinitus Sinus of the ancients) lies between the N.W. shore of the Crimea and the opposite shore of S. Russia, extending as far E. as the Isthmus of Perekop. The coast of the sea is, however, by no means iron-bound; small bays and harbours innumerable occur at short distances, through all its circuit, but none of them is in the least comparable, as to size,

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with the Gulph of Kirkinit, unless, indeed, the Sea of Azoph and the Sea of Marmara be reckoned gulphs of the Black Sea. The straits of the Black Sea are very remarkable; they scarcely break the continuity of the land, for at their narrowest part, that of Yenikailé, is not more than 2 m. across, and that of Constantinople less than 14 m. (Pallas's Travels, in S. Russia, ii. 288.; Chevalier, p. 44.) The former, indeed, spreads out in low and swampy grounds into a kind of marshy bay, the greatest width of which, measured transversely, is about 34 m. (Pallas, ii. 300.); but the Thracian Bosphorus flows through its whole length of about 17 m., like a magnificent river, between mountainous banks, and in no part attains a width of more than 2 m. or 2 m. (Jones, ii. 448.)

The depth of water in this sea is variable, but the variations appear to be extremely regular, depending generally upon the proximity of the land; so much so, indeed that in many places (off the mouths of the Danube in particular) the distance of the shore may be known within m. from the soundings only. (Eton, Commerce of the Black Sea, p. 6.) In the Strait of Yenikalé, the depth, in its shallowest part, does not exceed 11 ft., nor in its deepest is it more than 22 ft.; but passing this, the sea itself is found, in the neighbourhood of the strait, to have a general depth of 4 fathoms, deepening rapidly to 20 fathoms or more; while, in the S. parts, 48 fathoms are found at the entrance of the Thracian Bosphorus; an equal or greater depth along the W. shore, at a little distance from the land, as far as the mouths of the Danube; and in the main sea, between the Bosphorus and Sebastopol, in the Crimea, no bottom is found at 100, 120, 140, and 160 fathoms. The sea upon the S. coast, from Constantinople to Sinope (long. 35°), is tolerably deep; thence to the E. coast, it is known only that vessels of any draught may navigate its waters; and the N.E. shore, between the rivers Phasis and Kuban, may be regarded as yet unknown to Europeans. (Voy. of the Blonde, 1829; Geog. Journal, i. 106.; Eton, pp. 7-15.; Admiralty Charts, sect. iv. pl. 73.)

The Euxine is enclosed on the N.E., E., S., and S. W., by high mountains, which run down close to its margin; even on the W., the Carpathians approach its shores to within 170 m.; but towards the N. W. and N., it opens on the great European plain, which includes Russia, Poland, Prussia, N. Germany, the Netherlands, and Denmark. Not a mountain, not a hill, rises near its bed, in these directions, except the small range in the S. of the Crimea. It might be reasonably imagined, that, in consequence of such a formation, its basin would consist exclusively of the countries stretching from its N.W. and W. shores. This is, however, far from being the case. It is true that its N.E. coast, bound closely in by the Caucasus, receives only the torrents that run their short courses from the W. slopes of that mountain system, but from the S.E. and S., the supply yielded by Asia Minor is by no means niggardly, several very considerable rivers having their embouchure in its waters.

There are, of course, no tides in this close sea, but from the vast quantity of water received, the currents are very marked, powerful, and regular; a little variation is caused by winds, and some trifling complexity near the mouths of rivers, but in general the direction is from all points towards the Channel of Constantinople, through which a very constant flow is kept up to the Sea of Marmara. Within this strait, however, the currents become rather more variable, being thrown from side to side by the inequalities of the coasts, and the narrowness of the channel. (Chevalier, p. 45. ; Jones, ii. 394. 447.; Pallas, ii. 288. Geog. Journ., i. 107., &c.) The water of the Black Sea appears to contain more salt than could have been expected, under existing circumstances. It has been observed, of the constant action of the St. Lawrence on the N. American lakes, that it has been continued long enough to make them sweet and clear, even had they originally been filled with ink! But an operation, not less powerful, has been at work fully as long upon these waters; and though the Sea of Azoph has become potable, except when a S. W. wind prevails, the Black Sea itself is said to be only about 1-7th part less salt than the Atlantic, and fully 1-10th salter than the Baltic. (Chardin, p. 155.; Jones, ii. 143., &c.) This, if correct, is, in all probability, attributable to the saline nature of the sea-bed. The N. coast is almost one continued plain of salt, and the numerous lakes, with which these steppes abound, are, by the action of the summer sun, covered with a thick white crust of the same mineral, perfectly crystailised, and having the appearance, and almost the consistency, of ice. (Pallas, ii. 466–477.; Mrs. Guthrie's Tour through the Taurida, pp. 55-59., &c.) It is very improbable that this peculiarity of soil should be continued to the very edge of the sea, and then suddenly cease; and on the other hand, if it be farther continued to any distance, it will necessarily countervail in a great degree the influence of the immense supply of fresh water. The fact is, however, that but very little is known, with any thing like certainty, of the chemical composition of the Black Sea. The Russian observations are limited to the N. shores the few French and English travellers who have traversed its surface, have done so only partially and hurriedly; among trading navigators there has been no Jonas Hanway; and the statements of the Turks exhibit nothing but ignorance, prejudice, and misrepresentation. A scientific survey of this sea has yet to be performed, and Russia is the only power to which Europe can look for this service. Her government has already distinguished itself by similar investigations, and as she has so great an interest in the correct delineation and description of this sea, it is to be hoped that she may shortly undertake the task. Meanwhile, however, many old prejudices with respect to it are fast vanishing; and the Euxine is no longer regarded as a dark and desolate region of storms, danger, and shipwreck. That such an opinion should have ever prevailed, is not a little remarkable; but it did prevail in ancient, and in modern times till a comparatively late period. Tournefort was the first who attempted to dispel the prejudices and misrepresentations referred to; and who ventured to represent facts as he found them, and not as they had been disguised by the poets of antiquity, and by blind and ignorant Turkish navigators. Quoiqu'en aient dit les anciens, says this learned and excellent traveller, la Mer Noire n'a rien de noir, pour ainsi dire, que le nom : les vents n'y soufflent pas avec plus de furie, et les orages n'y sont guères plus fréquens que sur les autres mers. Il faut pardonner ces exaggerations aux poètes anciens, et surtout au chagrin d'Ovide; en effet le sable de la Mer Noire est de même couleur que celui de la Mer Blanche, et ses eaux en sont aussi claires; en un mot, si les côtes de cette mer, qui passent pour si dangereuses, paroissent sombre de loin, ce sont les bois qui les couvrent, ou le grand éloignement qui les font paroitre comme noirâtres. Le ciel y fut si beau et si sérène pendant tout notre voyage, que nous ne pûmes nous empêcher de donner une espèce de démenti à Valerius Flaccus, fameux poète Latin, qui assure que le ciel de la Mer Noire est toujours embrouillé, et qu'on n'y voit jamais de

The basin of the Euxine expands, in this direction, from about 40 m. to nearly or quite 260 m. in width; but immediately N. of the Caucasian mountains, it suddenly stretches E. 390 m., the sea receiving, through the Kuban, nearly all the water that flows from the N. E. face of the Caucasus, and by various other channels, considerably the larger part of all the drainage from the low and swampy lands W. of the Caspian. (See CASPIAN SEA.) On its N. coast, the Black Sea receives the waters of some of the first class European rivers from a distance of 700 m. from its shores. (See DoN, DNIESTR, DNIEPR.) The Don, indeed, falls into the Sea of Azoph; but this is, physically considered, only a part of the larger body with which it is connected. But by far the most remarkable part of the basin of the Euxine is that towards the W. It has been already stated, that the Carpathians approach, in this direction, to within a comparatively short distance of its shores; but notwithstanding this, the Danube, after breaking through the mountains at Orsova, reaches the Euxine charged with all the surplus waters of the E. and N.E. declivities of the Alps, the S. and part of the N.E. declivities of the Carpathians, the S. declivities of the Sudetes, and the N. declivi-temps bien formé. (ii. 164.) ties of the Balkhan; in other words, the whole water of N. Turkey, of the Austrian empire, with the exception of Bohemia and Lombardy; together with a great part of that of Bavaria and Wirtemberg. (See DANUBE.) These countries extend above 1,000 m. W. from the Black Sea; their surface is equal to more than 1-11th part of the whole of Europe, and their running water to almost 1-8th part. (Lichtenstein, Cosmog. i. 328. et seq.) When to this is added the supply from the N.E. and S., it will be evident that the basin of the Euxine is of very great exThe much larger portion belongs to Europe, of which it drains almost 1-3d part; and the amount of water received by the sea is equal to that given from the same division of the world to the Mediterranean (direct) and Baltic together. It is indeed by far the largest of the European basins, nor is there any where a similar tract of country so abundantly irrigated.

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The prevailing wind in the Euxine is from the N.E., and as it blows over a great extent of flat and swampy country, it is laden with moisture; and being confined by the high land on the E., S., and S. W., heavy fogs are occasionally produced. It may even be conceded to Dr. Clarke, that "in winter these fogs, and the falling snow, cause sometimes a darkness so great, that mariners are unable to discern objects at the distance of a cable's length from their vessels." (Travels, i. 641.) But this inconvenience involves scarcely any hazard, for the depth of water is always sufficient to allow of lying to without danger of drifting upon sand or rock; and with the least break in the weather, landmarks of the very best kind come into view, which may be seen at 20, and often at 60 m. distance. (Eton, pp. 8, 9.)

From the confined extent of the water, a short and troublesome sea is caused by any thing like a gale; but it

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