which it commands a fine view, which, especially by moonlight, is probably unequalled. Waterloo Bridge connects this street with the Calton Hill, being thrown over a deep ravine occupied with ancient, but shabby buildings, called the Low Calton. The line of road, to which this

lanes, which are mostly steep and difficult of passage, being rarely more than 6 ft. in width, and in general very dirty. Those of the greatest width, or which admit of a cart or carriage, are termed wynds, as Blackfriars' Wynd, St. Mary's Wynd, &c., while those which admit foot passengers only, are called closes. A few have no thorough-bridge leads along the E. side of the Calton Hill, fare, being in the form of culs de sac.

forms a grand approach to the city in this direction. The Queen Street Gardens, a piece of ground which extends from E. to W., about 4 of a m., and are about 200 yards in width, may be regarded as bisecting the New Town. Elegant streets have, at different periods, been built W. of Prince's Street and Charlotte Square, of which the most important are Athol and Coates's Crescents: the greatest length of the New Town, from Athol Place to the termination of Waterloo Bridge, is 1 m.

The situation of the southern districts is con

The High Street, which (including the Castle Hill, Lawn Market, and Canongate) stretches in nearly a straight line from the Castle to the Palace, a distance, as already stated, of more than 1 m., is a truly magnificent street; it is about 90 ft. in breadth, the houses, which vary from five to six or seven stories in height, have been mostly rebuilt; but a few, especially those on the Castle Hill, are of great antiquity. This street, with its shelving lanes and appendages, constitutes the whole of what is properly the "old town." It is connected with the southern districts by the Cow-siderably more elevated than that of the New gate, and by two bridges which stretch over the valley in which that street is built, viz. the South Bridge, opened in 1788, and George the Fourth's Bridge, opened in 1836. On the other hand, the Old and New Towns are connected by the North Bridge, which spans the North Loch, and forms a continuation of the line of the South Bridge, and by the "Earthen Mound." The North Bridge, which consists of 3 central arches, with several smaller ones at each extremity, was opened in 1768; while the Mound, which was begun in 1784 from the accumulation of the rubbish from the excavations of the New Town, was formed into a thoroughfare about the beginning of the present century, but it has since received great additions. It is supposed to contain 500,500 cubic yards, or about 1,500,000 cartloads of earth. W. of the Cowgate lies the Grass Market, a wide, open street, used as a marketplace for the sale of horses, sheep, corn, &c.

Town; but the buildings are of an inferior order, nor has much regularity been observed in the laying out of the streets. The houses are high, mostly four stories, and common stairs prevail, with partial exceptions, particularly in George's Square: this, which is the most elegant and fashionable place in this quarter of the town, was built above 70 years ago, and is of large dimensions. It has on the W. the public walk leading to the Meadows; and on the S. it is separated from them by Buccleugh Place. The principal line of buildings is Nicolson Street, which stretches from the South Bridge, already mentioned, to the country on the S., and now forms the main approach to the city in this direction. The former approaches on this side were parallel to Nicolson Street, being an old street, called the Pleasance, on the E., and the Causeway Side on the W. While the Meadows bound the southern districts on the W., a valley or ravine, fronting Salisbury Crags, forms their termination on the E. Not a few of the public buildings, including the University, are in this district.

The New Town, which, as well as the more modern parts of the southern districts, is built of light-coloured freestone, procured in abundance in the immediate vicinity of the city, stands on an eminence, which slopes to the Water of Leith, The original royalty, or "borough roods," emthe small river at the mouth of which Leith is braced only the Old Town, excluding even the Cabuilt. The leading streets run in straight lines nongate, which intervenes between it and the Pafrom E. to W., and are crossed at the distance lace. But the "extended royalty," as it is called, of about every 250 yards, by streets running in obtained from Parliament in 1767, while it exan opposite direction; so that great regularity, cludes the Canongate, embraces the whole of elegance, and beauty, characterise this quarter of the New Town, with the exception of a few streets the city. George's Street, which stretches along which have stretched beyond its limits. The subthe top of the ridge, is terminated on the E. by urbs of Edinburgh may be briefly enumerated : · St. Andrew's Square, and on the W. by Charlotte the Canongate, including the Calton, a contiSquare. Great King Street, which lies consider-guous hamlet at the base of the hill of that name, ably down the declivity, and nearer the Water of Leith, has, in like manner, the Royal Circus on the W., and Drummond Place on the E. There are, also, James's Square (the oldest in the New Town), and Rutland Square, recently built. Nor is variety, in other respects, entirely wanting. Another New Town may be said to have lately (1822-3) risen up, covering about 30 acres of ground, having Moray Place in its centre, and Randolph Crescent on the W. This is by far the most elegant and fashionable part of the city. The feus, or building leases, in this quarter fetch from 20s. to 40s. annually per foot of frontage. This portion of the city is terminated by the steep banks of the Water of Leith, and is connected with the grounds N. of that stream by the Dean Bridge, an elegant structure, consisting of 4 arches, each 96 ft. span, the height of the road-way above the bed of the river being 106 ft. One of the most celebrated streets in the New Town is Prince's Street, forming a species of terrace, and facing the Old Town, of

the superiority of which is vested in the city of Edinburgh. The town council of the city possesses a veto on the election of two resident bailies for the Canongate: that body, besides, appoints one of its own members as baron-bailie. Wester and Easter Portsburgh, the former lying W. of the Grass Market, and the latter, now called the Potter Row, S. E. These two places, which are of considerable antiquity, and which took their names from ports or gateways in the Old Town Wall, are also subject to the city of Edinburgh, being governed in a similar way as the Canongate. Leith was formerly in the same predicament; but it has of late years been rendered entirely free and independent. Broughton, a burgh of regality under the same jurisdiction, and lying on the site of the streets in the New Town, which now bears its name, has been nearly obliterated, and will soon entirely disappear. Its separate jurisdiction was destroyed when the Act for extending the royalty was obtained.

long ago as 1773. The area of the royal chapel, which formed the nave of the Abbey church, has long been used as a burial-place by several of the Scotch nobility. which are deposited the remains of several of the In the S.E. corner of the chapel is the royal vault, in Scotch sovereigns, and branches of their families. The precincts of the Abbey of Holyrood, including Arthur's Seat and Salisbury Crags, constitute a sanctuary for insolvent debtors.

Edinburgh was first walled in 1450. But from whom it was purchased in 1636 by the city of Edinthe wall was confined to the town as it then burgh, which still retains it. At the Reformation, the existed; that is, it did not embrace the Canon-it is now in a state of ruin, the roof having fallen in so buildings connected with this abbey suffered much; and gate, nor did it extend so far S. as the site now occupied by the Cowgate. But after the fatal battle of Flodden, in 1513, a new wall was built, comprising not merely the Cowgate, but the acclivity S. of that street, and running parallel to it throughout its whole length. Some remains of this wall, which enclosed the ground now occupied by the workhouse, the UniverThe buildings of the Royal Institution, an edifice in sity, Infirmary, Old High School, &c., are yet a pure classical style, situated at the N. termination of standing. A number of ports, or gates, gave acthe Earthen Mound, and fronting Princes Street, have cess to the city in different directions, the last of a range of Doric pillars on each side, and another which was removed in 1785. The Netherbow range surmounted with a pediment in front. The Royal Institution, under whose auspices this structure port, between the High Street, and the Canon-was founded, was incorporated by royal charter in gate, removed in 1764, was ornamented with a 1827, for the purpose of encouraging the fine arts in Scotland. spire. Its leading object is the annual exhibition of pictures of living artists, as also occasionally to offer exhibitions of pictures by the old masters. In 1826 a separate establishment was founded by a body of artists, with similar objects in view, entitled the Scottish Academy of Painting, Sculpture, and Architecture, which has since had regular annual exhibitions, and recently obtained a royal charter, and apartments in the Royal Institution. An off-shot from this body, we may here mention, took place in 1838, entitled the Society of Scottish Artists, which has had two annual exhibitions. The Royal Society of Edinburgh, the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, the Society of Arts, and the Board of Trustees, which last was instituted in 1727, for encouragement of trade and manufactures in Scotland, have also apartments under the roof of the Scottish Institution. The Board of Trustees, besides the primary object for which it was founded, pays 5002. a year to the Royal Institution for the encouragement of the fine arts.

Public Buildings. Of these the castle deserves the first notice. The date of its foundation is unknown. It was originally called Castrum Puellarum, because the daughters of the Pictish kings were educated and kept in it till their marriage-a necessary precaution in these barbarous times. Queen Margaret, widow of Malcolm Caenmore, died in this fortress in 1093. James VI. of Scotland, and afterwards I. of England, was born here in 1556. The fortress, which corresponds with none of the rules of art, being built according to the irregular form of the precipice on which it stands, is any thing but impregnable. It has been successively taken and retaken by contending parties, and was often in the hands of the English. It is, in short, of little or no strength, and is interesting only from its romantic situation on the top of a rugged rock, perpendicular on all sides except on that next the Old Town, the splendid view which it commands, and the many historical associations connected with it. It was occasionally used as a royal residence. In an apartment called the crown room were deposited the Scottish regalia at the Union in 1707: these relics, which consisted of the crown, sceptre, sword of state, and the lord treasurer's rod of office, were long supposed to have been removed or lost, but they were discovered, in 1818, in a large oaken chest in the crown room, by royal commissioners appointed to conduct the search. They are now open to the gratuitous inspection of the public.

The Palace of Holyrood, which stands at the E. extremity of the city, next claims our attention. It is a fine castellated edifice, of a quadrangular form, with an open area in the centre, 94 ft. square. The most ancient parts of the present palace were built by James V. in 1528. It was partially burnt by the English during the minority of Queen Mary, and again by the soldiers of Oliver Cromwell; but after the Restoration it was repaired and altered to its present form by Charles II. The Pretender took up his residence here in 1745. George IV., on his visit to Scotland in 1822, though he resided at Dalkeith palace, held levees and drawingrooms in this ancient abode of his ancestors. Meetings of privy council were also held here. The Count d'Artois, afterwards Charles X. of France, and other royal and noble French refugees, obtained a refuge here in 1793; and in 1831 the same apartments served a second time as an asylum for nearly the same individuals. It has a peculiar interest, from the circumstance of the apartments occupied by Queen Mary having been carefully preserved in the state in which she left them. Her bed is an object of interest to all strangers; and many relics of her majesty's needlework exist in the rooms. The spot where Darnley and his accomplices murdered her favourite, David Rizzio, piercing his body with fifty-six wounds, and other interesting localities, are carefully marked. The closet in which Mary was at supper, with the Countess of Argyle, Rizzio, and others, when this tragical scene was acted, is only 12 ft. square. In what is called the picture gallery, a hall 150 ft. in length, and 274 in breadth, are hung the portraits (most of them fanciful) of 111 Scottish monarchs, painted towards the end of the 17th century by De Witt, an artist of the Flemish school, by order of James II. of England, when Duke of York. In this hall the election of the 16 Scottish representative peers takes place.

In immediate connection with the palace on the N., are the ruins of the Abbey of Holyrood, founded by David I. in 1128. The king conferred a large endowment and other privileges on the monks (of the order of St. Augustine) whom he established here; among these, the privilege of erecting a burgh between the abbey and the town of Edinburgh. Hence the origin of the Canongate, the superiority of which at the Reformation passed from the hands of the monks to the Earl of Roxburgh,

The Calton Hill is the site of several interesting monuments; that of Nelson, though by no means in the best taste, is the most prominent; it stands on the edge of a precipice, and consists of a lofty circular hollow tower, having a stair inside, and battlements at the top. Here, also, is the National Monument, in commemoration of the naval and military glories of the late French war. The foundation stone of the latter was laid in 1822, when George IV. was in Scotland; but from the want of funds, only 15 columns have been finished. It is meant to be a fac-simile of the Parthenon in the acropolis of Athens, except that it is of sandstone, whereas its great prototype is of marble, and to contain both a church and a place of sepulture. On the same hill are monuments to Dugald Stewart, the celebrated metaphysician, and Professor Playfair; the former singularly chaste and beautiful, being a reproduction, with some variations, of the choragic monument of Lysicrates at Athens. On the S. of the hill, on a detached eminence overlooking the Canongate, is a monument to Robert Burns, belonging to the Corinthian order. The form of the cupola is an exact representation of that of Lysicrates. The Calton Hill is also the site of the Observatory and of the High School. On the S.W. corner of the hill, along the right of the road leading from Princes Street to the country on the E., stand Bridewell and the Gaol, two heavy and plain but well arranged buildings.

There are various other monuments in different parts of the town: that to the late Lord Melville, in St. Andrew's Square, consists of a column, surmounted by a statue, total height 153 ft., after the model of Trajan's pillar at Rome, but the shaft, instead of being ornamented with sculpture, as is the case with its archetype, is fluted. Bronze statues of George IV. and William Pitt, by Chantrey, are placed on granite pedestals in George Street, at the crossings, respectively, of Hanover Street and Frederick Street; and a bronze statue of the late earl of Hopetoun, by the same artist, is placed within a vacant space, opposite to the office of the Royal Bank, in St. Andrew's Square. Another bronze statue, by Campbell, of the late Duke of York has recently been erected on the Castle Hill, between the High Street and the castle. Ample subscriptions have been obtained for monuments to Sir W. Scott and the Duke of Wellington; that to the latter to consist of a triumphal arch and an equestrian statue; but the site for neither has yet been fixed. The monument of David Hume, the historian, within the old Calton Hill burying-ground, is a conspicuous and interesting object.

The Register Office, a building erected to preserve the public records of Scotland, was constructed after a plan designed by Mr. Rob. Adam, and though begun in 1774 was not completed till 1822. It is situated at the E. end of Princes Street, and fronts the North Bridge. The building, which is of two stories, exclusive of the base. ment floor, consists of a square of 200 ft., with a quad

in York Place, ore tower 120 ft. high; St. Paul's, appointments, they possess the exclusive right of pre

some portico, supported by massive Doric columns, forms the chief entrance. This is to be surmounted by a dome, the only thing that is now wanted to complete the building.

The celebrity of Edinburgh as a medical school has of late depended materially on the schools of a number of private lecturers of eminence in their separate departments, particularly in medicine. They are generally members of the Royal College of Surgeons, and attendance on their courses of lectures is allowed by that body to qualify for examination. This college grants diplomas in surgery, but not in medicine; so that a person may obtain the rank of surgeon in Edinburgh without attending a single class in the university; a circumstance which, of late years, has tended to diminish the attendance in the latter. A number of the lecturers, in 1839, united and formed themselves into a body called Queen's College. The lectures of this institution, as well as those delivered under the auspices of the Royal College of Surgeons, are recognised by the University of London, and qualify for examination before that body. The Royal College of Surgeons, incorporated by charter, in 1778, has recently built a Hall in Nicolson Street, which ranks amongst the finest specimens of

architecture in the city.

The Royal College of Physicians was established so early as 1681 by a charter from Charles II. The number of its fellows, resident and non-resident, is about 100. Their Hall is in George-street, a handsome edifice, of the Grecian style, built in 1775.

other, 450. Literary and scientific associations, we may on the one may be, as stated above, about 400; on the here mention, are common in Edinburgh, such as the Royal Society, the Astronomical Institution, the observatory attached to which on the Calton Hill is in the purest classical taste, the Society of Antiquaries, the Wernerian Society, the Royal Physical, the Royal Medical, There are also various subscription libraries, some of the Cuvierian, the Plinian, the Speculative Societies. them of great extent and value.

The High School is at once the oldest and most celebrated of all the Edinburgh schools; and is surpassed that we can do little more than barely enumerate them. Charitable institutions are so numerous in Edinburgh, but by few classical seminaries in the empire. It was The most important is George Heriot's Hospital, whose instituted in 1519, but having fallen into decay, was re-founder was goldsmith and jeweller to James VI. This erected in 1577. It now consists of a rector, and four noble structure, which is of quadrangular form, with other Greek and Latin masters, each of whom begins an a court in the centre, and of Gothic architecture, from elementary class yearly, and at the end of four years hands it over to the rector, under whom, generally during maintenance and education of poor fatherless boys, freea plan of the celebrated Inigo Jones, is devoted to "the two additional years, the curriculum of study is commen's sons of the town of Edinburgh." It was opened pleted. The school also embraces teachers of writing, for the reception of boys in 1659, when 30 were admitted. arithmetic, mathematics, and French. The present It now contains 180; but by a recent act of parliament, building, one of the greatest ornaments of the city, is the governors of the hospital are empowered to erect situated on the S. slope of the Calton Hill; it was schools from the surpluses of income, throughout the opened in 1829, is composed of a central body and two town, for the gratuitous education primarily of freemen's wings, and cost 34,000. The number of scholars has been (1820) as high as 968; but for some years past, the children of poor parents generally. One such school, sons; but if circumstances admit, to be open to the number has been rather under 400. This decline is containing 250 pupils, has been in operation for two not, however, ascribable to any falling off in the reputa- years; and several others are about to be opened, while tion of the school, but to the institution, in 1824, of a more aristocratical establishment of the same kind, charity is vested in the 18 city clergymen, and in the still more are contemplated. The management of the called the Edinburgh Academy, conducted by a commembers of the town council; total 51. The revenue of mittee of subscribers. Considering the excellence of the the hospital is upwards of 14,000l. a year. The other chainstruction, the fees charged at the High School are very ritable institutions are George Watson's Hospital, founded moderate, not exceeding in all 57. a year; the fees at the in 1741, containing 80 boys; John Watson's Hospital, Academy are about twice as much. A Naval and Military founded in 1825, and containing 120 children, male and Academy, instituted in 1825, embraces all the classes ne- female; the Merchant Maiden and the Trades' Maiden cessary for the two professions from which its title is Hospitals; the Orphan Hospital; Gillespie's Hospital, derived, as well as all the branches implied in a liberal for the reception of old decayed men and women, and education. The other more eminent schools, to which attached to it is a free-school, attended by about 160 we can do no more than allude, are the Southern Aca- poor children; Trinity Hospital, founded by the widow of demy, situated in George-square, embracing not merely James II. in 1461, for the benefit of "burgesses, their classical literature, but all the branches requisite in a wives, or children not married, nor under the age of commercial or general education; the Hill-street Insti- 50 years;" Cauvin's Hospital for the maintenance and tution in the New Town, of which a similar character education of the sons of poor teachers, and of poor but may be given; the Circus Place School, a seminary for honest farmers; the Institution for the Deaf and Dumb; English literature; the Ladies' Institution for the Asylum for the Blind; Magdalene Asylum; Lunatic Southern Districts; the Scottish Institution for the Asylum; House of Refuge; Royal Infirmary, founded education of young ladies (attendance upwards of 100, in 1736; Society for the relief of the destitute Sick; whose average age may be 16); Dr. Bell's School (at- Lying-in Hospitals; Dispensaries. In addition to these, tendance 400); Lancastrian School (attendance 600); and other less important charities, three bequests have the Sessional School, supporte by the Kirk Sessions recently been made for benevolent purposes. James of Edinburgh (attendance 300); School of Arts, or Me- Donaldson, printer, Edinburgh, who died in 1830, beThe following table (Education Inquiry, Scotland, Ses- queathed 210,000l. for the endowment and erection of an hospital for the maintenance of 200 poor boys and sion 1837, vol. xlvii.) shows the general state of edu- girls. Sir William Fettes, who died in 1836, left the cation in Edinburgh, including the number of parochial and of non-parochial schools, and the number of teachers greater part of his large fortune to form an endowment for and of scholars: (See next col.) the maintenance, education, and outfit of young people This table embraces all the pars. included under Edin-George Chalmers, plumber, who died in 1836, bequeathed whose parents have fallen into adverse circumstances. burgh, both civil and quoad sacra, as they stood in 1834. 30,000l. for the erection and support of an hospital "for The number of par. schools was then 6; and of nonparochial, 302. Some of the returns are defective as to the number of scholars; but they give, notwithstanding, an aggregate amount of 14,666, showing that 9 per cent. of the pop. of the capital of Scotland, exclusive of Leith, were being educated at the same time. But if we make allowance for the defective returns, and take also into account the number of pupils, chiefly females, attending private boarding schools, and those whose education is strictly domestic, the probability is that the proportion will be 84 per cent. instead of 93; a larger proportion than perhaps any other town of any consi. derable size can exhibit. These returns do not extend to pupils attending the School of Arts, or the Edinburgh Philosophical Association; the object of which latter is to afford instruction by lectures to the middle classes after business hours, in winter. The attendance

chanics' Institute (attendance 450).

the sick and hurt."

Courts of law. - Edinburgh is distinguished by being the seat of the supreme courts of Scotland, or College of Justice, founded by James V. in 1532. Of these, the principal is the Court of Session, or supreme civil exercised in England by the Courts of Chancery, court, which possesses in itself all those peculiar powers Queen's Bench, Common Pleas, Admiralty, and others, being a court both of law and equity. The constitution of the court has undergone various modifications in its different departments, during the last 300 years. At present it consists of 13 judges, called lords, and sepa

This par. embraces Heriot's Hospital, the school of the charity Workhouse, and the Model Infant School; but the number of scho lars is not given in the return. Some of the other pars. include vaious similar institutions, but whether the returns comprise the children that attend there does not appear. We believe they do.