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exercising within themselves rights almost independent.
These are united into 26 Hoch-gerichte, or high-jurisdic-
tions, each of which is, in many important respects,
independent, not only of the rest, but even of the su-
preme council. These high-jurisdictions are united into
the 3 leagues of the Grau Bunden (Grey League), con-
taining 8; the Gottes-haus Bund (League of the House of
God).11; and the Zehngerichte (League of Jurisdictions),
7 high-jurisdictions. The whole unite in electing a
supreme federal legislative council of 65 members, chosen
in the different jurisdictions and communities, by the uni-
versal suffrage of the male pop. above is (in some in-
stances 17) years of age. The supreme council or diet
of the leagues meets at Chur every year, in June, and
appoints a commission of 9 members to prepare matters
for its own consideration; and a minor council of 3 mem.
bers, one from each league, to whom the executive duties
are entrusted. It also elects the public officers of the
canton generally, concludes treaties, &c., and appoints 9
judges to form a central court of appeal; though, for the
most part, the communities and petty municipalities
themselves exercise full judicial powers, and in each of
the high-jurisdictions there is a power of life and death
in criminal cases, which is sovereign and without appeal.
The common law is different in each jurisdiction: every
one has its own peculiar laws and usages, and by these
the questions within their boundaries must be deter-
mined. The decisions of the supreme council have also
to be submitted for approval to the jurisdictions and
communities at large. The inhab. of the Grisons are
fond of boasting of the liberties they enjoy; but, in point
of fact, they are destitute of some of the most important
rights of the citizens of really free states. A free press, and
trial by jury, are unknown; and both the supreme coun-
cil and the courts of law deliberate and determine with
closed doors. There is, however, no direct taxation of
any kind; the state revenues are derived from customs
and duties on the transit trade, a monopoly of salt, pass-
ports, &c. The public revenue in 1832, amounted to
336,870 f.; the expenditure to 221,782 fl.
The an-
nual surplus is devoted to the payment of a small can-
tonal debt, which at present amounts to about 18,0001.
About 2-5ths of the pop. are of German, and 1-10th of
Italian origin. The different communities elect and sup-
port their own clergy. The canton furnishes a contin-
gent of 1,600 men to the army, and 12,000 Swiss francs
annually to the treasury, of the Swiss confederation. It
has a militia of all its male inhab. from the ages of 17 to
60. Chur, Mayenfeld, and Ilanz are the only places
worthy the name of towns. Few countries abound so
much with ruined castles and other feudal remains.
These belonged, in the middle ages, to the nobles, who
for a long period were possessors of the soil. In 1396, a
number of communities revolted against the feudal no-
bles, and, headed by the Bishop of Chur, formed the
Gottes-hans Bund; in 1424, the Graübund was formed in
a similar manner in the W. part of the Grisons; and in
1428, the Zehngerichte in the E. In 1471, the 3 leagues
alliance with the Swiss confederacy, though it was not till
1798 that the Grisons became a canton of Switzerland.
(Helvetic and Weimar Almanacks; Picot, Statistique
de la Suisse, p. 411-456., Ebel; Inglis's Switzerland,
p. 57-99. &c.)

and the Vorarlberg; E. the Tyrol; S. the Val-Tellina, | Lombardy, and the cant. Ticino; and W. the last-named cant. and that of Uri. In the greater part of its extent, it is enclosed by the Austrian territories; but is cut off from them, as well as from the rest of Switzerland, at nearly every point, by lofty mountain ranges. Length, E. to S., 86 m.; greatest breadth about its centre 53 Area estimated at 2,560 sq. m.; or, if the inequality of its surface be taken into account, at nearly 3,000 sq. m. Pop. (1838) 88,506, of whom 62,000 were Protestants and 24,000 Catholics. The whole canton is one mass of mountains and valleys; there is not a single plain worthy of notice. The main chain of the Rhætian Alps crosses the canton from W. to E., at first separating it from Ticino and Italy, and afterwards dividing it into two unequal parts, the valley of the Rhine, being the larger, on the N.W., and that of the Inn, or the Engadine, on the S.E. A great portion of this chain is above the limit of perpetual snow. The Muschelhorn, 10,640 ft., the Piz Val Rhin, 10,280 ft., M. Maloya, 11,480 ft. high, form parts of it, and it is crossed by the passes of the Splügen, St. Bernard, Albula, and Scaletta. From the E. extremity of the canton, a chain, little inferior in height, passes off N.E., separating the Grisons from Uri, Glarus, and St. Gall. Another chain bounds the Engadine on the S. E., to which belong the Monte dell' Oro, 10,538 ft., and M. Bernina, 7,654 ft. high; and which is crossed by the Pass of Bernina, about 6,460 ft. above the level of the sea. A fourth chain, called the Rhætihon, also including many elevated peaks, forms the boundary between the Grisons and the Vorarlberg. (Bruguière, Orographie de l'Europe. See also the art. ALPS in this Dict.) Both the Rhine and the Inn rise in the Grisons, as do several tributaries of the Upper Adige, Po, and Adda: the Rhine receives most of the minor Rhætian rivers. Climate and soil very various; but where the Rhine, Inn, and other rivers leave the canton, the general temperature is sufficiently high to admit of the cultivation of the vine. The scenery is peculiarly grand and magnificent; the canton contains upwards of 240 glaciers, comprising the largest in Switzerland. The nature of the country generally unfits it for agriculture; but in the Engadine, where the inhab. are very industrious, every patch of land is cultivated that is worth the pains. The corn raised is chiefly rye, barley, oats, and Turkish wheat; but not half the quantity required for home consumption is produced, and it is consequently imported to the annual value of about 300,000 florins. (Picot.) Hemp and flax, also, though pretty generally grown, are not produced in sufficient quantities for home demand. Potatoes have been cultivated only of late years. Fruit and wine are among the articles of export. The chief wealth of the canton consists in its cattle. Its pasture lands are estimated to feed, in the summer, 100,000 head of cows, oxen, &c., besides from 60,000 to 70,000 goats, and perhaps 100,000 sheep, many of which are driven from Italy to feed in the Alpine pastures for about three months, under the care of Bergamasque shep-entered into a common union; and, in 1497-8, formed an herds. The best breed of cattle is that of the Prottigan (or valley of the Lanquart); but the best cheese is made in the Engadine; some of which, Mr. Inglis says, "far surpasses that of Gruyère." (Switzerland, p. 67.) A great many hogs are kept, most of them for home consumption. Rural economy, and the condition of the peasantry, vary very greatly in different parts. Throughout the Engadine, the land belongs to the peasantry, and each individual usually supplies his family with provisions and clothing entirely from the produce of the territory belonging to him. Poverty is here rare, and beggary unknown. Indeed, many of the inhab. of the Engadine are possessed of considerable property, which they have amassed in some of the commercial cities of Europe, chiefly as confectioners. Schools are numerous, and few of the children in the valley of the Inn are uneducated. In the valley of the Rhine, the peasants are also the proprietors of the soil, living upon the produce of their own lands; but, as in most other parts of the Grisons, they are not industrious. Their land is badly tilled; garden cultivation is ill-conducted; and the forests are neglected. In the Tavetsch-thal there is a good deal of squalid misery. Wages are, notwithstanding, high throughout the Grisons. There are some rich veins of metal, especially iron; but they are not wrought. Manufactures few, and mostly domestic; the principal are those of cotton fabrics, some of which are exported. The most profitable branch of commerce is the transit trade between Zurich and Italy, the route of which passes through the Grisons and over the Splügen, and is a source of wealth to Chur, the cap. (See CHUR and ALPS, p. 68.) The chief exports from the Grisons are timber, of the value of about 180,000/., and cattle, mostly to Italy, to the amount of 70,000l. a year: the principal imports are corn, salt, oil, sugar, coffee, tobacco, foreign manufactured goods, and iron.

This canton comprises a confederation of little republics in itself. It consists of a number of communes,

GRODNO, a government of Russia, formerly included in the old k. of Poland; between lat. 51° 30′ and 54° 20° N., and long. 23° 7′ and 26° 42′ E., having N. the gov Wilna, E. Minsk, S. Volhynia, and W. Bialystok and the k. of Poland. Greatest length N.E. to S.W. about 200 m.; average breadth, nearly 75 m. Area, estimated by Schnitzler at 14.700 sq. m. Pop. probably 600,000. The surface is an alluvial or sandy plain, broken only by a few undulating chalk hills. The Niemen, Bug, Narew, and Priepec, are the principal rivers; in the S. there are some large marshes. The climate is damp, and the atmosphere cloudy and foggy. The principal agricultural product is rye, about 6,825,000 hectolitres of which are said to be produced annually, a third part of which is exported. Few other kinds of grain or vegetables are grown for food, but flax, hemp, and hops are raised in considerable quantities. There is a large extent of pasture land; cattle-breeding is pretty well understood; and the native breed of sheep, which has been much improved by crossings with the breeds of Silesia and Germany, yields good wool, which is a principal article of export. The forests are extensive. Many belong to the crown, and that of Bialoreja, a royal domain, occupies nearly 96,200 hectares. Iron, lime, nitre, and building-stone are found. Manufactures are hardly worth notice; the principal are those of woollen cloth, leather, and felt. The exports consist of corn, flour, cattle, and wool; much of the produce is sent to Memel, Konings berg, Vindau, Riga, &c., by the canal of the Niemen, and by land. The greater part of the inhab. are Rus niaks, except in the N., where Lithuanians prevail. The nobles comprise about 1-24th part of the whole pop., and are principally Poles. Jews are very numerous. There

are some Tartars and colonies of German artisans. The dominant religions are the Rom. Catholic and the United Greek church. In 1832, there were 32 public schools, and 1,012 scholars. There were throughout the gov., at that period, only two printing-presses. Chief towns, Grodno the cap., Novogrodek, Slonem, and Brzesc (Brest Litofskii).

GRODNO, a town of Russian Poland, and cap. of the above gov., in the N. W. part of which it is situated, on a hill on the Niemen, 85 m. S.W. Wilna, and 154 m. N.E. Warsaw; lat. 53° 40′ 30" N., long. 23° 49 '45" E. Pop. (1840) 10,000.? Grodno was formerly considered the second town of Lithuania, and even disputed the superiority with Wilna. Its houses are partly of stone and partly of wood; and the greater number of its streets are extremely filthy. It has a fine castle built by Augustus III. of Poland, the ruins of a more ancient fortress, 9 Rom. Cath. and 2 Greek churches, a synagogue, and some handsome residences of the nobility, a gymna sium, an academy of medicine founded by Stanislaus Augustus, many other schools, a good public library, cabinets of mineralogy and physical objects, and a botanic garden. There are some inconsiderable manufactures in the town and its vicinity; and it has some well frequented fairs. (Schnitzler, La Russie, 412-420.)

stables, and fed during winter on hay and after-grass. Throughout the commune of Gruyère, the inhab. are above poverty. During a part of the year, there are not so many hands in the cheese country as are required, and these are of course borrowed from other and poorer communes. Wages are very high, in comparison with most other parts of Switzerland, being about 2s. 6d. a day, exclusive of living. (Inglis's Switzerland, &c., p. 163.; Coxe's Switzerland, ii. 220.)

GUADALAXARA, or GUADALAJARA, an inland city of Mexico, cap. of the state of same name (otherwise called Xalisco), in a rich and extensive plain, on the Rio Grande de Santiago, 130 m. from the Pacific, and 275 m. W.N.W. Mexico; lat. 21° 9′ N., long. 1030 2 15" W. Pop., which in 1803 was only 19,500, had in 1823 reached 46,800, and is now probably 60,000 (Ward's Mexico, ii. 357.), so that it is, in point of pop., the second city in the republic. It covers a great extent of ground, and at a distance has a very picturesque appearance. Its interior is also handsome; its streets are airy and well laid out, and many of the houses extremely good, though mostly of only one story. There are 14 squares, the principal of which, the Plaza de Armas, has in it the government-house, in which the congress assembles; the cathedral, a fine edifice, though much injured by the GRONINGEN, a fortified city of Holland, cap. prov. earthquake of 1818; and the Portales de Comercio, conof same name, and the most important town in the N. sisting of piazzas or arcades built around three large Dutch provs.; on the Hunse, at the influx of the Aa, 45 square blocks of houses. "Within the town the Portales m. E. by N. Harlingen, and 90 m. N.E. Amsterdam; are the principal rendezvous, as besides a number of lat 53° 13′ 13′′ N., long. 6° 34′ 18′′ E. Pop. 30,500. handsome shops, well provided with European and It is well built, and clean: its market-place (Bree- Chinese manufactures, they contain a variety of stalls Markt) is one of the largest and handsomest squares in covered with domestic productions, fruits of all kinds, Holland; and there is a fine public promenade, called earthenware from Tonala, shoes in quantities, mangas, the Plantage. It has a strong citadel, built in 1607, saddlery, birds in cages," dulces" of Calabazate, and a and is surrounded by ramparts and ditches, kept in thousand other trifles, for which there seems to be an good condition. Many of the public buildings are incessant demand. As each of these stalls pays a small handsome, especially the great church of St. Martin, a ground rent, the convents to which the Portales belong Gothic structure, the spire of which is the loftiest in derive from them a considerable revenue. They are the Holland; and the town-hall, erected in 1793. The uni- counterpart of the Parian in Mexico, but infinitely more versity, founded in 1615, is usually attended by about 400 ornamental, being built with equal solidity and good students, a much greater number than formerly: it taste." (Ward, ii. 362.) Besides this public promenade, possesses an excellent museum of natural history, a there is the Paseo, an extensive avenue shaded by double library, and a botanic garden. Groningen has an academy rows of fine trees, having a stream flowing through it, of painting, sculpture, and architecture, a seminary for and leading to the Alameda, a public walk very prettily deaf and dumb, another for the instruction of the blind, laid out, for the trees, instead of being drawn up in battle societies of natural history and chemistry, poetry, lite- array, in lines, intersecting each other at right angles, rature, and jurisprudence, and a branch of the society of like the streets, are made to cover a large tract of ground "public good." It has a large paper manufacture, be- in irregular alleys, while in summer the intervening sides some factories of woollen and silk stuffs, cotton spaces are filled with flowers, particularly roses, which stockings, &c., and yards where merchant-vessels are give both life and variety to the scene. There is a sometimes built; but, speaking generally, the manufac-fountain too in the centre, and a stream of water all turing industry of the place is but inconsiderable. It round." (Ward, ii. 361, 362.) Many of the public places has an active trade in cattle, butter, &c.; and by means are adorned with fountains. Besides the cathedral, there of a canal, large vessels come, from the estuary of the are several churches, with numerous monasteries and Ems, quite up to the town. convents, a college maintained at the public expense on the most liberal footing, and for which a magnificent building has been erected, two ecclesiastical establish. ments for the education of young women, three for young men, five boys' schools, a public hospital, bishop's palace, mint (a fine building), and a neat theatre. A large pile of building, erected during the Spanish rule for a workhouse, now serves as a barrack for about 500 men. The coffeehouses are tolerable, and the shops and market-place are well supplied with provisions, &c., but the last, which is large, is very ill-kept, and the hotels or inns are said to be filthy. The city is supplied with water from the Cerro de Col, three leagues distant; it is lighted at by a patrol. Many of the streets look melancholy and deserted, "most of the lower orders being occupied in their own houses, where they exercise various trades in a small way, as in San Luis. They are good blacksmiths, carpenters, silversmiths, and hatters, and are famous for their skill in working leather, as well as in manufacturing a sort of porous earthenware, with which they supply not only all Mexico, but the neighbouring states upon the Pacific. Shawls of striped calico, much used by the lower orders, are made in considerable quantities, as were formerly blankets; but this branch of trade, after suffering much in 1812, when the port of San Blas was opened by General Cruz, has been destroyed entirely by the late importations from the U. States." (Ward, ii. 357.) There is at present little or no foreign trade, San Blas having been nearly abandoned for the ports of Mazatlan and Guaymas; and foreign goods are now brought overland, chiefly from San Luis or Mexico. When Mr. Ward visited Guadalaxara there was but one foreign mercantile house in it, which belonged to a British merchant. This city was founded in 1551, and in 1570 was erected into a bishopric. Under the Spaniards it was the cap of an intendency of the same name, and the seat of a royal audiencia, as well as of some flourishing manufactures.

This town is not mentioned previously to the ninth century, and it was not fortified for several ages afterwards. It was first attached to the United Provinces in 1576: it afterwards fell into the hands of the Spaniards, but was finally retaken by Prince Maurice, in 1594. (Dict. Géog.; Boyce's Murray's Guide Books.)

GRUYE'RE (Ğerm. Greyerz), a town of Switzerland, cant. Freiburg, 16 m. S. Freiburg. Pop., with some adjacent hamlets, 940. It is situated on a hill, the summit of which is crowned by the ancient castle of the counts of Gruyère, a fortress said to have been founded in the fifth century, and which is one of the most extensive and best-preserved feudal monuments in Swit-night, except at the time of the full moon, and watched zerland. The town is walled, and contains a handsome parish church, a rich hospital, and a public library. The district around Gruyère is famous for its cheese, of which it produces about 25,000 cwt. a year. It is made on a chain of mountains about 10 leagues in length and 4 in breadth all the cheese, though made in the same manner, is not of the same quality; the lower pastures not being in such estimation as those in the more elevated situations. The very finest qualities are said to be too delicate for exportation; and Mr. Inglis mentions that he tasted cheese in Switzerland far superior to any that can be bought in London or Paris. The whole district is divided into greater or lesser farms, which the proprietors let out on leases of 3 or 6 years, at rents varying according to the nature and elevation of the ground; the lower pastures, though not of the best quality, being the dearest, because, being sooner freed from the snow, and later covered with it, they afford food to the cattle for a longer time. The farmers who rent pastures, hire from the different peasants in the canton from 40 to 60 cows, from the 15th of May to the 8th of October, paying for them certain rates per head. Each cow, at an average, yields daily from 20 to 24 quarts of milk, and supplies 200 Swiss pounds of cheese during the 5 months. On the 18th of October, the farmer restores the cows to the different proprietors. The In no part of Mexico have republican principles cattle are then pastured in the meadows, which have been made such progress as in the state of Guadalaxara. twice mowed, until the 10th or 11th of November, when, It was here that the revolution was brought to maon account of the snow, they are usually removed to the, turity, that the rise and fall of Iturbide was effected,

and the law banishing Spaniards from the country passed the senate. The government has shown a laudable desire to promote education. Lancastrian and other schools are diffised throughout the state; four printing presses have been established in the cap. since the revolution; and by the constitution, those who, after 1840, are unable to read, will lose the right of voting at elections; and in no part of Mexico has so vigorous and successful a resistance been made to the encroachments of the ecclesiastics, or the influence of the latter been so much duminished. (Ward's Mexico, ii, 356-364.; Humboldt, Essai, &c. Poinsett; Hardy; Thompson's Alcedo, &c)

the lands, and downwards, of the produce of the land. Guadeloupe contains many mineral springs.

The island of Grande-Terre is of a triangular shape, and has an area of about 55,923 hectares. It is little raised above the level of the sea, and differs remarkably in its features from Guadeloupe. It is almost a level plain, with only a few scattered hills. It is destitute of woods, and its rivers are insignificant; in consequence of which the rain, which is much less frequent than in Guadeloupe, is obliged to be carefully preserved in cisterns. Marie-Galante, a circular-shaped island about 12m. to the S.E., is traversed, E. to W., by a chain of hills, which, like those of Guadeloupe, abound in timber. GUADALAXARA, a town of Spain, and cap. prov. of The mean temperature of the year at Basse-Terre same name, on the E. bank of the Henares, 35 m. is about 81° Fah.; its annual range is between 700 S.W. Madrid; lat. 40° 33′ N., long. 3° 22′ 15′′ W. Pop., and 999, In the sun, the thermometer sometimes rises according to Miñano, 6,736. It was once walled, and to 130° Fah.; the heat is, however, tempered by fragments of its walls still remain. It is wretchedly land or sea-breezes. The atmosphere is remarkable for built; the only buildings of any consideration being the humidity. About 86 inches of rain falls annually, on an palace of the Duke del Infantado, a large edifice, con- average, chiefly between the middle of July and the structed with very little taste; and the church of the middle of October. Like the other Antilles, Guadeloupe, Franciscans, which contains a superb mausoleum of the is very subject to hurricanes, and shocks of earthquakes duke's family, said to be second only in splendour to that are frequent. The soil is light and easy of tillage, but of the Escurial. Here is a bridge over the Henares, its productiveness is owing more to the heat of the clioriginally built by the Romans, and restored in 1758. A mate and the abundance of water than to its richness. woollen cloth factory established here by Philip V., The soil of Grande-Terre is, on the other hand, very is said to have employed, in 1786, 4,000 hands, besides rich. Almost every part of that island is capable of giving employment in spinning to no fewer than 40,000 cultivation, and, notwithstanding the deficiency of water, in the adjacent villages. But, as might have been anti-it is very productive. The total surface of the colony is cipated, it has greatly declined; and now scarcely pays, said to have been divided as follows, in 1835:and most probably never did pay, its expenses. The town is the seat of a corregidor, and is governed by an Total Cultiv. PasturSurface. Lands. alcalde of the first class. ages.

GUADALQUIVIR, a river of Spain, having its sources in Murcia and La Mancha, and flowing S. W. through Andalusia. The source called the Guadalquivir, is in the Sierra de Cazorla, lat. 37° 51′ N., and long. 2° 58′ W.; but the true source, and that most distant from the mouth, the Guadarmena, rises in the Sierra de Alcaraz, not far from the town so called; lat. 38° 48' N., long. 2° 30′ W. The length of the river from this point is 240 m. direct distance, and 320 m. along the

channel. The general direction is S. W. by W. as far as Seville, where it takes a turn nearly S., and, after forming two islands, Isla Major and Isla Minor, flows through a marshy and most unhealthy flat into the Atlantic, at San Lucar. It is navigable for vessels of 100 tons as far as Seville, and for boats as high as Cordova, 774 ft. above the sea. The chief affluents are, the Jandula, Guadiato, Bembezar, and Biar, on the r. bank; and the Guadalimar, Guadiana menor, and Xenil, on the 1. Of these the Xenil, flowing through Granada, is the longest, being 120 m. long. The ancient name was Bætis: the present appellation is Arabic, Wady-al-kebir, the great river.

GUADELOUPE, one of the Windward Islands, in the W. Indies, and one of the most valuable colonies belonging to France, lying (inclusive of Grande-Terre) between lat. 15° 58′ and 16° 13′ N., and long. 61° 15′ and 61° 55′ W., 40 m. S.E. Antigua, and 30 m. N. Dominica. Together with its dependencies, the adjacent islands of Marie-Galante, La Désirade, and Les Saintes, and 2-3ds of the island of St. Martin (Leeward Islands), the area and pop., in 1836, of the colony, has been estimated as follows:

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Guadeloupe is divided into two unequal parts by the Riviere-salée, or Salt River, an arm of the sea about 5 m. in length, and varying in width from 30 to 120 yards. The division S. W. of this inlet is Guadeloupe Proper; that on the N.E. is called Grande-Terre: the former is of an oblong shape; length, N. to S., about 25 m. average breadth, about half as much; area, 82.289 hectares. A chain of volcanic mountains, covered with woods, runs through the centre of the island, nearly in its entire length. The medium height of its summits is somewhat more than 3,000 ft.; but, near its 8. extremity, the Soufrière, a volcano still exhibiting a smouldering activity, rises to 5,108 ft. above the level of the ocean. A multitude of rivulets, by which every part of the island is well watered, run down the flanks of this mountain chain; two of them, the Goyave and Lezarde, are navigable for small craft, and highly useful for the conveyance, upwards, of sea-mud, to manure

From July 1830 to Jan. 1837, 8,637 slaves were emancipated, about 1-10th part of whom purchased their liberty.

Islands.

Guadeloupe
Marie-Galante
Les Saintes

Woods. Uncula

vated.

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La Désirade
Saint Martin

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The sugar-cane, at present grown, is of the Otaheitian variety, and was introduced in 1790, after the other kinds were found to have degenerated. For the last fifteen years its culture has very much increased, and in a great measure superseded that of coffee. Most of the kitchen vegetables of Europe are raised in the gardens at Basse-Terre; but they degenerate rapidly; tropical fruits, and others of the S. of Europe, attain considerable perfection. Agriculture has been much improved of late years by the introduction of the plough and the use of manure, including lime, salt, &c. The sugar manufacture has been also greatly improved by the introduction of steammills. The live-stock consists principally of black cattle, sheep, and mules. Guinea grass is the only forage

grown.

The manufacturing establishments are limited to 3 tanneries, a pottery, and about 24 limekilns. The various trades and handicrafts in the colony are exercised by about 1,600 individuals, chiefly whites, or free coloured labourers. There is no fishery on any extended scale; but about 30,000 kilogs. of fish are annually taken. We subjoin an ACCOUNT of the Quantity and Value of the principal Articles exported from the Island in 1836.

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Nearly all the exported articles are sent to France, whence 9-10ths of the imports are derived. The imports are chiefly salted meat and fish, wheat flour, maize, pease and beans, olive oil, cotton, linen, and silk fabrics, wine, timber, candles, perfumery, hats, &c., amounting, in 1836, to the value of 26,769,217 fr. In the same year, 518 French vessels, of the aggregate burden of 70,027 tons, entered, and 543, of the burden of 69,056 tons, left the island: the number of foreign ships which entered and left was 156. The principal roadsteads and ports are those of Basse-Terre, and Mahault, in Guadeloupe; Pointe-à-Pitre, and Moule, in Grande-Terre; the roadstead of Saintes, and a few others.

Guadeloupe and its dependencies are divided into 3 arrondissements, 6 cantons, and 24 communes. The legislature consists of a governor, and a colonial council of 30 members, elected for 5 years, by natives of France resident in the island, above 25 years of age, paying taxes of 300 fr. a year, or having a capital of the value of 30,000 fr. In 1836, the number of electors was 1,092. To be eligible for a member of council, an individual must be 30 years of age, and pay taxes to the amount of 600 fr., or possess property of the value of 60,000 fr. In 1836, 619 persons were eligible for counsellors. There is a royal court at Basse-Terre; the other tribunals are 2 courts of assize, 3 of original jurisdiction, and 6 tribunals of justices of the peace. The colony has a military commandant, and an armed force of 2,138 men, including 100 officers. There are about 30 ecclesiastics, upwards of 50 public schools, and hospitals in the chief towns. The public revenue for 1837 was fixed at 4,412,318 fr., and the expenditure at 4,396,967 fr., leaving a surplus of 15,351 fr.; but of the former only 2,134,527 fr. were contributed by the colony. Basse-Terre, the cap. of Guadeloupe, and the seat of government, on its S. W. shore, is clean, well built, and contains 5,500 inhab. It has two parish churches, a government house, hall of justice, a large hospital, an arsenal, some good public fountains and promenades, and a fine colonial garden. It is defended by several batteries on the side of the sea.

Capesterre, on the E. side of the island, is its other chief town. Pointe-à-Pitre, a town of 12,000 inhab., is situated at the W. end of Grande-Terre. It owes its prosperity to its excellent port. It is regularly built, has a handsome church, and many good private edifices. Several forts protect its harbour. The other towns are insignificant; but three of them, besides the foregoing, have their own municipal councils. These islands were discovered by Columbus, in 1493: the French took possession of them in 1635. Guadeloupe has, on several occasions, been taken by the English, and was occupied by British troops from 1810 to 1815, when it was restored to France. (Notices sur les Colonies Françaises, tom. i.; Official Reports; Encyc. des Gens du Monde.)

GUADIANA, (an. Anas, Arab. Wady-Ana), a river of Spain, rising in the mountains of La Mancha, about 15 m. N.W. of Villahermosa, lat. 380 55 N., long. 20 18 W., and flowing through New Castile, Estremadura, and a part of Portugal. It has several sources, which form small connected lakes, called the Lagunas de Ruidera. Its direction at first is N.N.W. for about 30 m. it then disappears among the marshes, and is not raceable for 14 m. It rises again N.E. of Daymiel, at a place called Los Ojos de Guadiana, with a general E. direction past Merida, as far as Badajoz, where it turns S., and after a very tortuous course of 424 m., enters the Atlantic by two mouths. It is navigable about 45 m as far as Mertola, to the falls called El Salto del Lobo. The chief affluents are the Giguela, the Guadarranque, and the Oeiras, on the r., and the Jabalon, the Guadalema, the Ardilla and the Chanza, on the 1. bank. With the exception of the Giguela, the affluents on the 1. bank are by far the largest.

GUADIX (an. Acci), a town of Spain, prov. Granada, on the river of same name, 32 m. W. by S. Granada, and 216 m. S. Madrid. Pop., according to Miñano, 9,110. It is an old walled town, with steep, narrow, and badly-paved streets. It has a cathedral, built in the Corinthian and Composite orders, with a handsome portico, 5 par. churches, convents, and an hospital. The approach to the town is through a fine avenue of trees, and the surrounding land is rich, and subjected to irrigation. The chief branch of industry is the manufacture of large clasp knives. (Townsend, iii. 102.) Inglis remarks that "Guadix is famous for its midnight frays." It is a bishop's see. and is the seat of a corregidor (Inglis, ii. 196.)

GUAMANGA, or HUAMANGA, called also San Juan de la Victoria, or de la Frontera, a city of Peru, cap. prov., on the river of same name, in an exten sive and beautiful plain, 210 m. E.S.E. Lima, and 185 m. W.N.W. Cuzco. Pop. 25,000.? It is well built, has good squares and streets, and the houses, which are of stone, have gardens and orchards attached to them. Alcedo affirms that no town in Peru is to be compared with it as to its buildings, and speaks very favourably of its climate. It has a cathedral, with several other churches and con

vents; and a university with faculties of philosophy, divinity, and law. Guamanga is the seat of an intendent, and the see of a bishop. It was founded by Pizarro, on the site of an Indian village of the same name, for the convenience of the trade between Cuzco and Liina. (Dict. Geog.; Mod. Trav., xxvii.)

GUANARE, a town of the repub. Venezuela, dep. Orinoco, prov. Varinas, on a river of the same name, 45 m. S.E. Truxillo, and 65 m. N.N.E. Varinas. Pop. 12,300. It has wide and straight streets, and neatly built houses. A handsome church, the interior of which is splendidly adorned, contains a shrine of our Lady of Conomorato, much resorted to by pilgrims. The chief wealth of the inhab. is derived from their trade in cattle, of which they possess large herds; and which, together with mules, &c., they export by way of Coro, and Puerta Cabello.

GUANAXUATO, or GUANAJUATO, an inland and mining city of Mexico, cap. of the state of same name, in the Sierra de Santa Rosa, 6,836 ft. above the level of the sea, and in the very centre of the richest mining district in the whole country, 156 m. N. W. Mexico; lat. 21° 0′ 15′′ N., long. 79° 23′ 53′′ W. Pop., including its suburbs, ac. cording to Humboldt, in 1803, 70,600, which number had, however, diminished to 34,000 in 1835. The town is very irregularly built the streets are full of ascents and descents, many of which are so steep as to render the use of four mules in the carriages of the more wealthy inhabitants almost universal. The open spaces cannot be called squares, for they are of irregular and indescribable forms: the whole city, in short, is distributed here and there, wherever vacancies at all adapted for building have been left by the mountains. One part is so hidden from another, that, viewed from the streets, it appears to be a small town. "It is only by ascending the heights on the opposite side that a view is gained of the whole valley, broken into ravines, along the sides of which the town is built. Surveyed from this point, the novelty of its situation strikes the stranger with astonishment. In some places it is seen spreading out into the form of an amphitheatre; in others, stretching along a narrow ridge; while the ranges of the habitations, accommodated to the broken ground, present the most fantastic groups." (Mod. Trav. xxvi. 2.) The houses also have a singular appearance: they are large, and well built of hewn stone, but disfigured by their fronts being painted of the gayest colours! Some of the residences belonging to the principal families are, however, really magnificent, as are the churches, and the Alhondiga, or public granary. the civil war, and the decay of the mines, has inflicted great and, perhaps, irreparable injury on the city. The town and its suburbs have numerous amalgamation works, one of which sometimes occupies a whole ravine, the spaces above, on either side, being crowded with miners' huts. Guanaxuato suffers two serious inconveniences; one is, a scarcity of water, there being within the city only a few cisterns belonging to wealthy individuals; so that most part of this important necessary has to be brought a distance of 2 m. upon the backs of asses: the other is, that during a portion of the year it is liable to inundation from the torrents which descend from the mountains, and, though works to prevent this have been constructed at a great expense, few years pass without some accidents occurring. Some of the public highways have been strangely neglected. On approaching Guanaxuato from the S., there is, indeed," a raised path for foot-passengers, but coaches and animals of all kinds have to proceed up the bed of a river, which during the rainy season rushes along with dangerous impetuosity.

But

This town has been entirely created by the mines which surround it. In the vicinity of some of them, little pueblos, as Valenciana, Rayas, Serena, &c., have been formed, which may be considered as its suburbs. The first mine-that of St. Barnabe-was opened in 1548; but it is only within the last 70 or 80 years that the mines of Guanaxuato have become so famous. In 38 years, viz. from 1766 to 1803, they produced gold and silver of the value of 165,000,000 piastres, or 12,720,060 lbs. tr. ; the annual average produce being 556,000 marcs of silver, or 364,911 lbs. tr., and from 1,500 to 1,600 marcs of gold. (Mod. Trav. xxvi. 3.) The Veta-Madre, or great "mothervein," is composed of several parallel veins running N.W. and S.E. for rather more than 5 leagues, within which distance there have been upwards of 100 shafts opened. According to Humboldt, the mother-vein has yielded more than a fourth part of the silver of Mexico, and a sixth part of the produce of all America. The principal mines situated on this vein are those of Valenciana, San Juan de Rayas, Mellado, Secho, Cata, Iepeyac, Serena, &c. When Humboldt visited these works in 1803, they employed 5,000 workmen, 1,896 grinding mills, and 14,618 mules; and before the revolution of 1810, they yielded, in all, 10,000 mule-loads of ore, of 11 arrobas (275 lbs.) each, weekly; making 62,562 parcels of 32 quintals of ore yearly, worth 7,727,500 dollars. Of this quantity, the mine of Valenciana alone produced from 5,000 to 6,000

loads, Rayas 1,500, and the other mines the remainder. (Poinsett's Notes, &c., 206, 207.) According to Mr. Ward, the mother-vein supplied bullion from 1766 to 1829 (the date of his publication), of the value of 225,935,736 dollars. (Ib. ft. 189.)

"The mine of Valenciana," says Humboldt, "is the sole example of a mine which, for forty years, has never yielded less to its proprietors than from 2,000,000 to 3,000,000 fr. (80,000 to 100,0002.) annual profit." (Polit. Essay, ini. 193.). It is at the N. W. extremity of the mother-vein. After having been abandoned for a long period as unpromising, it began again to be wrought about 1762, by M. Obregon, a young Spaniard without capital, but with good credit and great perseverance. In! 1768 considerable quantities of silver began to be extracted from it; and from 1771 till 1804, it constantly yielded an annual produce of 600,000Z., the net profit to the proprietors being in some years as much as 250,000. At that period, 1,800 men were employed in the interior of the mine, besides 300 men, women, and children employed without in different ways; and Valenciana (a town which afterwards contained 22,000 inhab.), at an early! part of these proceedings, sprang up, and had between 7,000 and 8,000 inhab. on the very spot where goats had been browzing 10 years before. The machinery of this celebrated mine was much injured by Hidalgo in 1810, and destroyed by Mina after his unsuccessful attack on Guanajuato in 1818. When the Anglo-Mexican Mining Association undertook to drain and work the mine, it was nearly 3-4ths filled with water, and the town of Valenciana had become a ruined place, with only about

1 Guatemala

Republics.

2 Quesaltenango

3 Honduras

4 Nicaragua

5 Salvador

6 Costa Rica

Federal District *

Total.

4,000 inhab.; and notwithstanding the expenditure of vast sums by the Association it has not hitherto recovered its former productiveness.

Much of the landed property in this and the neighbouring states, belongs to the great mining families resident in Guanajuato. The vicinity of this city abounds with tillage-land, yielding rich crops of wheat, barley, maize, &c., orchards, gardens, &c. Agriculture has been much depressed through the injury done to the mines, and the suspension of mining labours. Guanax. uato was founded in 1545, constituted a town in 1619, and a city in 1741. (Humboldt; Ward; Hardy; Poinsett ; Sketches of Society in Mexico; Mod. Trav., &c.) GUATEMALA, GUATIMALA, or CENTRAL AMERICA. Under this term is included the long and comparatively narrow tract of country connecting the continents of N. and S. America, lying between lat. 8° 5' and 16° 50′ N., and long. 80° 50 and 94° 12′ W.; having N. the Mexican provinces Tabasco and Yucatan, and the Bay of Honduras, E. the Caribbean Sea and the Columbian province of the Isthmus, and S. and W. the Pacific Ocean; length, N.W. to S.E., about 1,000 m.; breadth varying from 90 to 250 m. Besides the British settlement of Honduras, and the independent territories of the Mosquito Indians and Poyais, Central America includes the territories of 6 republican states, and a federal district common to the latter, the area, pop., &c. of which have been estimated as follows by Don G. Galindo in the Geographical Journal, vol. vi., and the American Almanack for 1840:

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The above table has few pretensions to accuracy, no general census having been taken since the declaration of independence. In the pop. of Honduras is included that of the Mosquito coast; that of Guatemala comprises the British settlers of Belize, &c., amounting to about 4,000; and to that of Quesaltenango are added 6,155 inhab. of the prov. Soconusco on the Pacific, which has remained, since 1823, as a neutral territory between Central America and Mexico.

Physical Geography. No very distinct mountain chain traverses Guatemala, but an elevated plateau occupies the central parts of the country, forming a kind of chain of communication between the Cordilleras of S. America and the mountain chains of Mexico. This plateau rises much more precipitously from the side of the Pacific than the Atlantic, the general slope of the country being to the N.E. The table-land rises also considerably as it proceeds N. W.: in Costa-Rica and Nicaragua its highest parts are of very moderate ele vation, and the lake of Nicaragua, situated in a plain bounded on either side by hills of no great height, is less than 134 ft above the level of the Pacific. In the states of Guatemala and Quesaltenango, the table-land averages perhaps 5,000 ft. in height above the ocean: the loftiest summits, which are either active or extinct volcanoes, being in that part of the confederation. The Water Volcano, near Guatemala, so called from its frequently emitting torrents of hot water and stones, but never fire, is 12,620 ft. above the Pacific. There are two large plains those of Nicaragua and Comayagua, besides many of less size on the banks of the larger rivers and along the shores: these principally consist of extensive savannahs with rich pasturage interspersed with clumps of trees. All the larger rivers flow N.E. or E., the proximity of the high mountain range to the Pacific permitting but a short course to those flowing W. The chief are the Motagua, Honda, Belize, Polochie, Rio de Segovia, the San Juan, connecting the lake of Nicaragua with the Atlantic, &c.; the banks of most of them are richly wooded. The Motagua is of considerable size, and useful for the conveyance of European and other goods into the interior of Guatemala. The lake of Nicaragua, 130 m. long by more than 40 m. average breadth, is by far the most important, and it will probably form an important part of the projected water communication between the Atlantic and Pacific. (For further details, see NICARAGUA, LAKE) The other principal lakes are the GolfoDolce, and those of Leon or Managua, Peten, Atitan, Amatitan, &c. The Golfo-Dolce, 24 m. long by 10 *This is a circle round the city of San Salvador, 20 m. in diame. ber, with a farther extension of 10 m. towards the S., to include the

readstead of Libertad on the Pacific.

Chief Towns.

Guatemala.
Quesaltenango,
Comayagua.
Leon.

San Vincente.
San José.

San Salvador.

broad, receives several rivers, and discharges itself by the Rio Dolce into the Bay of Honduras. Central America possesses an advantage over Mexico in having excellent harbours on both seas; its coasts are indented by deep and capacious gulphs, as those of San Juan and Chiriqui, on the Caribbean Sea, and of Nicoya, Papago, and Conchagua, on the Pacific. A few islands surround the shores, but they require no description. (Galindo, in Geogr. Journal, vi., &c.)

Climate.- The coast plains are subject to violent tropical heats, and are very unhealthy, especially those on the Caribbean Sea, where fevers incessantly prevail. These are chiefly inhabited by the Indian pop., whose constitutions are better able to resist the pestiferous nature of the atmosphere than those of Europeans. The climate of the table-land varies according to its elevatior, but an equable, moderate, and agreeable temperature may be obtained there all the year round, with a perfectly healthy climate. The dry season lasts from October to the end of May, during which N. winds prevail; and in the table-land, in November and December, water exposed to the open air at night, is sometimes, though rarely, covered with a thin pellicle of ice. The rest of the year is entitled the wet season; but the rains, though heavy, last only during the night, and the days are fair and cloudless. Earthquakes are very frequent. Goitre is a common disease in the high regions of Central America.

Mineral Products. The precious metals are found in great abundance in Honduras, Costa Rica, and other provinces; with copper, iron, lead, nickel, zinc, antimony, &c.

The Vegetable Products are of greater importance. The forests yield many valuable kinds of timber, including mahogany, cedar, palo di maria, a species of wood well adapted for ship-building, &c. But the logwood tree (Hematoxylon Campeachianum, Linn.) is by far the most valuable of the products of the forests. It is found here and in the adjoining peninsula of Yucatan in the greatest perfection, and is a most important article of export; a species of Brazil wood is also exported. Among the other vegetable products may be enumerated the dragon's blood, mastic, palma Christi, and other balsamic, aromatic, and medicinal plants; with the sugar-cane, cocoa, indigo, coffee, tobacco, and cotton, which are extensively cultivated. The crops vary according to the elevation of the surface. Below the level of 3,000 ft., indigo, cotton, sugar, and cocoa, are the principal. The last is chiefly grown along the shores of the Pacific, and that of Soconusco was esteemed by the Spaniards the best furnished by their American possessions. The federal district is distinguished

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