empire, is beginning to make its way into these sequestered recesses. Wherever a steamer is seen, Manchester or Glasgow cottons will be found not long after.

The manufacture of kelp and the fishery, once the principal employments in the Hebrides, have declined very much of late years. Kelp is formed by burning seaware, previously dried in the sun; the alkaline substance thus formed being used in the manufacture of glass, soap, and alum. The annual produce of kelp towards the close of the late war has been estimated at about 6,000 tons. Its price was sometimes as high as 20. a ton; but its average price, during the 23 years ending with 1822, was 101. 98. 7d. (Encyc. Brit., art. Scotland.) And such was the influence of the manufacture, that the kelp stores of the island of N. Uist let at one time for 7,000l. a year! But the foundations on which this manufacture rested were altogether unsound. The repeal of the exorbitant duties laid on barilla and salt, especially the latter, virtually annihilated the manufacture of kelp. Its price, instead of averaging upwards of 10. per ton, has been so low as 17. 10s., but ranges generally between 37. and 47. The manufacture is still carried on in some of the islands, though in some instances at a considerable loss, instead of a profit. (Fullarton and Baird, App. table iv.) The loss to the Hebrides, however, has been only appaparent. The manufacture withdrew the attention of the islanders from what would have been more profitable pursuits. Being engaged during summer and harvest at the kelp shores, their crofts and crops were both neglected; and the sea-weed which, had it been laid on the land, would have been the best possible manure, was carefully collected and carried off. Although, therefore, the ruin of the kelp trade was injurious to several proprietors, and was extensively felt at the time, it was productive of no real injury to the islands; but, on the contrary, will, in the end, conduce materially to their advantage.

The herring fishery has also, of late, been declining in the Hebrides. The factitious encouragement given to this business by government (which ceased in 1830), did not raise it to any considerable importance; nor has the abolition of the salt tax and the freedom of the trade been more successful. This has arisen from various causes, such as the want of encouragement on the part of the landlords, who are the only capitalists belonging to the country; the want of continuous application, and, consequently, of skill on the part of the fishermen, who, being at the same time farmers, are not, and indeed cannot be, proficients in either employment; and especially from the herring, which is very capricious, having comparatively deserted the W. shores of Scotland. In 1837, only 22,706 barrels of herrings were cured, gutted and ungutted, at Stornoway, Rothsay, and Tobermory.

The rearing of black cattle and sheep is the most extensive and profitable business in the Hebrides. The introduction of large farms into some of the islands has given a powerful stimulus to grazing, and black cattle are, in fact, the staple product of the Western Islands. The Kyloes, or West Highlanders, are the general breed, of which the best specimens are to be found in Skye; they are hardy, easily fed, not injured by travel, and, when fattened, their beef is finely grained, and is, perhaps, superior to any brought to table. The stock is estimated at not less than 120,000 head, exclusive of the islands in the Clyde, of which about a fifth part are annually exported lean to the mainland for fattening. When sold lean, their weight ranges from 13 stones to 30; but when fattened, it often rises to 50; but the average is from 24 to 36. The native breed of sheep is small, weighing only from 15 to 20 lbs.; weight of fleece (which is of various colours, even in the same fleece), from 1 to 1 lb. Both the blackfaced, or mountain breed of sheep, and Cheviots have been latterly introduced with success; the former to the greatest extent. Mr. M'Donald estimated the number of sheep in the islands, in 1811, at rather less than 100,000; it cannot be less at this moment than 120,000.

The Hebridean horses are small and hardy; but they are not so handsome as those of the Shetland Isles. They are, however, extensively exported.

The woods and plantations in the Hebrides, in 1811, were estimated at 5,000 Scotch acres. Their extent has greatly increased in the interval, particularly in Skye, Mull, and Islay. But in the Outer Hebrides there are no trees; and, except in a very few spots, none can be raised. Turf or peat is the common fuel in all the islands; in some islands, as Tyree, Iona, and Canna, moss being deficient, the greater part (in Tyree, the whole) of the fuel has to be imported, chiefly from Mull, a third part of the industry of the inhabs, being required to supply themselves with this indispensable article. Limestone is found in several of the islands, particularly Islay, whence it is exported in considerable quantities. Lead mines have also been long wrought in Islay, but not with any spirit. Marble is found in Tyree and other places, and slate in Easdale and the adjacent islands: both are pretty largely exported.

Manufactures, in the usual meaning of the word, are

entirely unknown in the Hebrides, if we except two cotton mills, employing 455 hands, at Rothesay, and 12 distilleries in Islay, producing above 250,000 gallons of spirits a year. The people manufacture their own clothing from wool and flax of their own raising; and each head of a family makes the greater part of the utensils, implements, and furniture they require. Boat-building is carried on to a small extent at Tobermory, Stornoway, and several other places. With the exception of one or two common trades, such as those of a tailor, shoemaker, and joiner, the division of employments is nearly unknown; every person carrying on different kinds of business at different seasons of the year, and even at different hours of the day. In some of the smaller islands, there are no day-labourers, the small farmer and his family doing all kinds of work. (Fullarton, p. 121.) The wages of labour are, in almost every instance, 1s. per day. There are 6 branch banks, 3 in Rothesay, and 1 each in Islay, Portree (Skye), and Stornoway.

The introduction of steam navigation has contributed largely to the improvement of the Hebrides, particularly the islands in the Clyde, with which there is a regular steam communication every day, and the Inner Hebrides generally; but the Outer range is scarcely ever visited by steamers. Not only are the former resorted to by numbers of strangers, from whose superior intelligence the inhabitants derive much advantage, but the steam-boats create a taste, and open a market, for various articles for which there was previously no demand, and afford a ready means of conveying articles of native produce to Glasgow, Greenock, and other places. These facilities of intercourse and exchange are continually being extended, and have a most beneficial effect on the character and circumstances of the Hebrideans.

There are about 50 landlords, of whom Mr. Campbell, of Islay; Lord Macdonald; the Duke of Hamilton; Mr. Stewart Mackenzie, of Seaforth; Macleod, of Macleod; the Marquis of Bute; and Maclean, of Coll, are the largest. The landlords generally are becoming more alive to the importance of large farms, and of agricultural improvement. Islay, which belongs almost entirely to Mr. Campbell, has been justly denominated the Queen of the Hebrides. The soil rests on a bed of limestone, and yields good crops of wheat and other grain, of which it exports considerable quantities. An improved rotation of crops has been introduced, comfortable houses and offices have been built, roads and harbours have been constructed, and all sorts of improvements are carried on with spirit and success. Lord Macdonald has also laid out immense sums on the improvement of his estates in Skye; and we have elsewhere noticed the extraordinary change that has been effected in the island of Arran, under the auspices of the Duke of Hamilton. (See ARRAN.)

The rental of the Hebrides, in 1815, was 102,3287 It is now (1840) estimated at from 110,000l. to 120,000Z. The exports are black cattle, sheep, kelp, wool, cod and ling, herrings; the imports are iron, groceries, salt, oatmeal, &c.

There are only 10 attornies in the Hebrides, of which a half are in Rothesay, and only one (Stornoway) in the Outer Hebrides. Some of them are also bank agents, and engaged in employments other than law. There are only 5 constables in the whole range of the islands, and soldiers are neither known nor required; and the greater number of the islands are destitute of surgeons, and even inns. The nearest hospitals are in Greenock and Inverness. There are no printing presses, nor, of course, any native newspaper.

The Hebrides have few remains of antiquities, excepting those of the cathedral and other religious buildings of Iona, a small but famous island (34 m. long by 1 m. broad), situated 9 m. S.E. Staffa, and 1 m. from the S.W. point of Mull. These ecclesiastical ruins are of the most venerable description. St. Columba, who introduced Christianity here from Ireland in 565, and whose successors, and those who adopted his creed, are known under the name of Culdees, is said to have built the cathedral; but it is abundantly evident that it was erected at a considerably later period. Of the buildings, some belong to the Roman, some to the Gothic, and others to the Norman style. The successors of Colomba were expelled from the island by the Danes in 807; but two orders of monks, the Benedictines and the Augustines (nuns), took possession of the place in the 12th century, and flourished there till the general abolition of monasteries at the Reformation, when the island became the property of the family of Argyle, to which it still belongs. The remains of these various establishments, which cover several acres of ground, consist of the cathedral, St. Oran's chapel, the chapel of the nunnery, five smaller chapels, and other dependent buildings. The cathedral is cruciform, with a tower 70 ft. high: the length from E. to W. is 160 ft., the breadth 24 ft.; the length of the transept 70 ft. Within the precincts of the cathedral are two crosses, the one called St. Martin's, the other St. John's. A large space around

these buildings was used as a cemetery, in which were interred the remains not only of their religious inmates, and of several Highland chieftains and families of distinction, but (it is said, though the statement is probably much exaggerated) of 48 Scottish and 16 Norwegian kings, and 1 French and 4 Irish sovereigns. Of 360 native crosses erected on the island, only 4 remain. (Keith's Cat. of Scot. Bishops, ed. 1824, pp. 414. 458.; Pennant's Scotland, ii. 285.). There were five other monasteries in the Hebrides, viz., in Oronsay, Colonsay, Crusay, Lewis, and Harris; but of their history nothing is known, and few remains can be traced of their existence. (Keith, pp. 385-393.)

lona, as every body knows, was visited by Dr. Johnson in his tour to the Western Islands. He has described his sensations on visiting it in the following noble passage, which never can be too often quoted:-"We were now treading that illustrious island which was once the luminary of the Caledonian regions, whence savage clans and roving barbarians derived the benefit of knowledge, and the blessings of religion. To abstract the mind from all local knowledge would be impossible if it were endeavoured, and would be foolish if it were possible. Whatever withdraws us from the power of our senses; whatever makes the past, the distant, or the future, predominate over the present, advances us in the dignity of thinking beings. Far from me, and from my friends, be such frigid philosophy as may conduct us indifferent or unmoved over any ground which has been dignified by wisdom, bravery, or virtue. That man is little to be envied whose patriotism would not gain force upon the plains of Marathon, or whose piety would not grow warmer among the ruins of Iona."

Of the early history of the Hebrides nothing certain is known. They recognised for a lengthened period the sovereignty of the Norwegian kings, but were, in 1264, annexed to the crown of Scotland. Owing, however, to their remote and inaccessible situation, their chieftains were for centuries afterwards lawless and turbulent, and assumed and exercised almost regal authority. Indeed, it was not till the abolition of hereditary jurisdictions, in 1748, that a final blow was given to the influence of the independent chief tains of, the Western Islands.

The Hebrideans, in 1715 and 1745, were almost to a man in favour of the exiled family of Stuart. Charles landed on the small island of Grisca, to the S. of S. Uist; and after the battle of Culloden, he took refuge, first in the Outer Hebrides, and afterwards in Skye, previously to his escape to France. We need only further mention that, owing to the introduction of the system of large farms, and the consequent superseding of the small tenants, the latter have emigrated extensively to Canada. The landlords have not unfrequently furnished them with the money required for their passage across the Atlantic.

HECLA, or HEKLA (MOUNT), a famous volcano of Iceland, near the S.W. coast of the island. Its height was estimated by Sir G. Mackenzie at about 4,000 feet, or probably less; but, according to later authorities, it has an actual elevation of 5,210 ft." On approaching," says Sir G. Mackenzie," Hecla from the W., it does not appear remarkable; and has nothing to'distinguish it among the surrounding mountains, some of which are much higher, and more picturesque. It has three distinct summits, but they are not much elevated above the body of the mountain." The crater, of which the highest (or N.) peak forms a part, does not much exceed 100 feet in depth. The bottom is filled by a large mass of snow, in which various caverns have been formed by its partial melting. The middle and lower peaks form the sides of similar hollows, and on the ascent are numerous other craters, whence flame and other matter have at different times been ejected. Hecla, like the Snæfell Jokul, near the W. extremity of the island, terminates in a long group of comparatively low hills. These, and others surrounding, are almost wholly composed of tufa, closely resembling that of Italy and Sicily; but the mountain itself consists chiefly of columnar basalt and lava, which latter forms a rugged and vitrified wall around its base. All the upper part of the mountain is covered with a layer of loose volcanic matter, slag-sand, and ashes, which increases greatly in depth towards the summit. In this part, indeed, few traces of any other substances are to be seen. Mackenzie says, "We could not distinguish more than four streams of lava, three of which have descended on the S., and one on the N. side; but there may be some streams on the E. side, which we did not see." (Travels, p. 249.) The view from the summit is one extended scene of frightful desolation. Towards the N. the country is low, except where a jokul here and there towers into the egions of perpetual snow. Several large lakes appear fu different places, and among them the Fiske Vatn is the most conspicuous. In this direction the prospect reaches nearly two thirds across the island. The Blafell and the Lange Jokuls stretch themselves in the distance to a great extent, presenting the appearance of enormous masses of snow heaped up on the plains. The Skaptar

Jokul, whence the great eruption in 1783 broke forth, bounds the view towards the N.E.: this is a large, extensive, and lofty mountain, and appears covered with snow to its very base. The Torfa, Tinfialla, and Eyafialla Jokuls limit the view to the E. To the S. is an extensive plain covered with lava, rugged with sharp stones and other volcanic substances, imbedded in the soil, and bounded by the sea.

There is, perhaps, no country where volcanic eruptions have been spread over so large a continuous surface as in Iceland, no part of the island being wholly free from the marks of their agency. But the distribution of the volcanic energy over so wide a space is doubtless the reason that the eruptions of Hecla are far behind those of Etna and Vesuvius, both in frequency and magnitude. Since 1004, only 22 eruptions from Hecla have been recorded, but some of these lasted for a considerable length of time; 8 or 9 eruptions have also taken place within the same period from the Kattlagiau, Eyafialla, and Skaptar Jokuls in the immediate vicinity of Hecla; and it is a curious fact, that out of 42 eruptions mentioned by native authors as having occurred in different parts of Iceland since the year 900, 5 were simultaneous, or nearly so, with eruptions of Vesuvius, 4 with those of Etna, and 1 (in 1766) with eruptions of both Etna and Vesuvius. (Sir G. Mackenzie's Travels in Iceland, pp. 236-254.; Henderson's Encyc. des Gens du Monde ; Lyell's Principles of Geology, &c.)

HEDON, or HEYDON, a bor., market-town, and par. of England, co. York, E. riding, middle div. of wap. Holderness, on the Breamish, 6. m. E. Hull. Area of par., with which the bor. is co-extensive, 1,440 acres pop., in 1831, 1,080. The town is small and mean-looking, with little business or trade. It was formerly of greater importance, and its decay is owing to the choking up of its harbour, and the greater advantages enjoyed by the neighbouring port of Hull. A church, dissenting chapel, and charity school are its only public buildings. This inconsiderable place returned 2 mems, to the H. of C., from the 1st of Edward VI. down to the Reform Act, by which it was disfranchised. The franchise was vested in the freemen, who became such by descent, apprenticeship, or gift: the seats were usually sold to the highest

bidder.

HEIDELBERG, a city of S. Germany, duch. Baden, and the seat of a town and district bailiwick, at the foot of the Kaiserstuhl on the Neckar, about 12 m. above its confluence with the Rhine at Manheim, 30 m. N. Carlsruhe, and 48 m. S. Frankfort-on-Main: lat. 49° 24′ 43′′ N., long. 8° 41′ 38′′ E. Pop., in 1838, 13,430. (Berghaus.) It is picturesquely situated at the entrance of the beautiful winding valley of the Neckar, and overlooked by well-wooded hills at the back, while rich vineyards cover the rising ground as far as the Heiligenberg on the opposite side of the river. The town lies close to the bank, and the principal street (Hauptstrasse), into which most of the others run, is nearly a mile long. The streets are narrow and gloomy, and the public buildings have no pretensions to grandeur. The church of the Holy Ghost, a large structure with a very lofty steeple, is divided so as to furnish accommodation both for Protestant and Rom. Catholic worship. St. Peter's church is the oldest in the town, and on its doors Jerome of Prague nailed his celebrated theses expounding the doctrines of the Reformers. There are two other churches and a Jews' synagogue. The University-house is a plain building, in a small square near the centre of the town, and contiguous to it is the library. In the same square is the Museum Club, where the members of the University dine, and meet for various purposes. The Anatomical and Zoological Museum, in the suburbs, was formerly a Dominican convent. Connected with the medical school are 3 hospitals, small and ill-ventilated, and not accommodating, in the whole, more than about 60 patients. The river, only navigable here for barges and rafts, is crossed by a stone bridge of 9 arches, 750 ft. long, and 34 ft. broad; and at its foot, within the town, is a heavy-looking building with towers, used as a prison for riotous students and other disorderly persons. The well-known Schloss, or electoral palace, stands on the side of the Giesberg, S. of the town, from which its ruins have a most imposing aspect. This castle was sacked and partly burnt by the French in 1693, and afterwards struck by lightning in 1764; since which time it has been wholly uninhabited: it is now roofless, and presents a mass of red-sandstone walls perforated with windows. The styles of architecture partake of all the successive varieties belonging to the 14th, 15th, and 16th centuries. The most ancient part is the E. front, part of which was built in the 14th century by the Elector Otto Henry: it is a solid square building with towers at each end, one low and round, the other higher and of octagonal shape. A more modern part, less injured than the rest, is remarkable for its tall gables, curious pinnacles, and richly ornamented windows, showing it to belong to the 17th century. The front towards the Giesberg is a mere mass of moulder

ing buttresses and crumbling walls. Within the ruined hall it has long been the custom to hold a sacred concert once in three years: it is got up in the most splendid style, and is attended by all the people of the surrounding country. The cellars of the castle are very extensive, and are even said to communicate with the town below: in one of them is the famous Heidelberg tun, now empty, but said to be capable of holding 800 hhds. The terrace and gardens furnish the most magnificent views of the Neckar and its windings, and of the Rhine glittering here and there in the distance: spires and towers of numerous cities and villages dot the landscape which is bounded S. by the dusky outline of the Vosges. Heidelberg has no trade of any importance; but some expectations are entertained of its prospects in this respect being improved, in consequence of the railway just opened between it and Manheim. It is a cheap place of residence in consequence of the low price of provisions and the moderate house-rent charges. The climate, however, is not very healthy, especially during the winter; and consumption, scrofula, and goitre are prevalent diseases. The most curious objects in the neighbourhood of Heidelberg are the Wolfsbrunnen, the Heiligenberg and its ruined castle, and the Kaiserstuhl. From the top of the tower on this last hill one may see the spire of Strasburg Cathedral, 90 m. distant.

The university, called Ruperto-carolina, is, except Prague, the oldest in Germany. It was founded by the elector Rupert II. in 1386, and after the ravages of the 30 years' war, and that of the Palatinate, was restored by the elector, Charles Louis, under whom it reckoned Spanheim, Freinshemius, and Puffendorf among its professors. In 1802, when Heidelberg was ceded to the grand duke of Baden, he accepted the office of rector: through his munificence the university funds were greatly increased, and a fresh spur was given to the exertions of its professors. Its present income from the government is 40,000 florins (about 4,000.), which, together with the income arising from fees, &c., is applied to the payment of professors salaries, and the enlargement of the library. There are 4 faculties (divinity, law, medicine, and philosophy); and to these are attached 40 ordinary and extraordinary professors, and 21 private tutors. The faculties of law and medicine are those most attended. The number of students in 1840 was 622, of whom 22 studied theology, 364 law, 148 medicine, 59 mineralogy, and 29 philosophy and philology. The fees commonly paid for daily lectures during one semester are from 12 to 20 florins; and the necessary expenses of a student during a university session may be estimated at about 457. Many of the Germans, however, live at a still lower rate. The present professors are many of them of high repute: among others are Schwarz, Umbreit, and Paulus in theology; Mittermaier, and Zacharia, in law; Geiger, Tiedemann, and Chelius in medicine; Creuzer, Schlosser, and Bähr in philosophy. It is matter of regret that the impetuosity of the students in mingling with the disturbances at Frankfurt, in 1833, should have injured the usefulness of the university: the numbers have fallen off nearly a half in consequence of several German princes forbidding their subjects to resort thither. The riotous conduct of the Heidelberg students is chiefly owing to the system of Burschenschaften, or students' clubs, which excite here greater animosity and more frequent disturbances than in any other university of Germany. The library, which in the unhappy period of Heidelberg's history, was pillaged of its most valuable treasures to enrich the papal library, a part only of which were returned by Pius VII. in 1815, now contains 120,000 vols., besides a large number of rare and very valuable MSS. Connected with the university may be mentioned an homiletic seminary, a philological seminary, and a spruch-collegium, or practical school for law students. There is a good gymnasium for junior students, and 17 elementary schools are supported by the government. (Conversations-lexicon; Private Information.)

The date of the foundation of Heidelberg is not known; but it ranked only as a small town in 1225. The count-palatine, Robert, enlarged it in 1362, and the period reaching thence to the 30 years' war appears to have been the era of its prosperity; for it then displayed, in its handsome buildings, all the splendour arising from a flourishing trade, and the residence of the court of the electors palatine of the Rhine. In 1622, during the 30 years' war, the town was taken by Count Tilly, after a month's siege, and given up to be sacked for three days: the library was sent to the Duke of Bavaria, and the imperial troops retained possession of the place during 11 years, at the end of which it was retaken by the Swedes under Gustavus Adolphus, and kept by them till the peace of Westphalia, in 1648. In 1674, in consequence of disagreements between Louis XIV. and the elector Charles Louis, a French army under Turenne invaded the Palatinate, sacking and setting fire to its towns and villages. The sufferings of Heidelberg at this time, however, bore no comparison to the severe treatment which

it met with in 1689 and 1693, when Melac and Chamilly ravaged and burnt the place. (See Foltaire, Siècle de Louis XIV., ch. 16.) These repeated calamities, and the removal of the elector's residence and court to Manheim, in 1719, contributed to diminish its importance among the towns of Germany; and it has never since recovered either its trade or pop. In 1802, at the peace of Amiens, Heidelberg was attached to the grand-duchy of Baden.

HEILBRONN, a town of S. Germany, k. of Wirtemberg, circ. of the Neckar, and near that river, 25 m. N. Stuttgard. Pop. 10,200. It is irregularly laid out, but contains many good houses. The Dict. Géographique (1828) says that it is surrounded by lofty walls and a deep ditch; but later authorities do not mention its fortifications. Its most interesting public edifice is the church of St. Kilian, remarkable for the pure Gothic architecture of its choir, and its beautiful tower, built in 1529, 220 ft. high. The town hall is an antique edifice, in which many imperial charters, bulls, and other ancient records are deposited. In the outskirts of the town is a tall square tower, in which Götz of Berlichingen, celebrated in one of Göthe's dramas, was confined in 1525. The house of the Teutonic Knights is now a barrack; on the other hand, the orphan asylum has been converted into a royal residence. There are 3 Rom. Cath, and 2 Protestant churches, a richly endowed hospital, a house of correction, and a gymnasium with a library of 12,000 vols. Heilbronn retained the privileges of a free city of the empire, originally conferred upon it by the En p. Fred. Barbarossa, down to the beginning of the present century. It was formerly a place of importance, from its position near the frontiers of the circles of Swabia, Franconia, and the Lower Rhine, and it still has an active trade, being an entrepôt for the merchandise sent from Frankfort for the supply of S. Germany. It has manufactures of woollen cloth, white lead, tobacco, hats, brandy, paper, oil, gypsum, silver articles, &c.; and some trade in woollen and cotton goods. The Wilheims canal, recently carried into the town, facilitates the traffic between it and the Neckar. Great quantities of wine, some of very tolerable quality, are grown in the neighbourhood, and coal is said to abound in the vicinity.

HELDER (THE), a marit. town of N. Holland, on a projecting point of land at the N. extremity of that prov., opposite the Texel, 40 m. N. by W. Amsterdam: lat. 52° 57′ 42′′ N., long. 4° 44′ 55′ E. Pop. 2.852. Being important from its position, commanding the Mars-Diep, or channel to the Zuyder Zee, and having almost the only deep water harbour on the coast of Holland, it is strongly fortified. It has a few manufactures, and some trade with Amsterdam, with which city it communicates by the Helder canal, the noblest work of the kind in Holland. (See AMSTERDAM, p. 100.) The famous Van Tromp was killed in an engagement off the Helder in 1653. It was taken by the British under Sir R. Abercrombie in 1799.

HELENA (ST.). See ST. HELENA.

HELIER'S (ST.), the cap. of the Isl. of Jersey on its S. coast, 90 m. S. Portland Bill, 35 m. N.W. Granville, and 39 m. N. St. Malo; lat. 49° 18′ N., long. 2° 13′ 45′′ W. Pop. (1831), 10,120. It stands on the E. side of St. Aubin's Bay, ou a slope facing the shore between two rocky heights, on one of which is the citadel, Fort Regent, overlooking the harbour. It is not well built, and in the old and central parts the streets are irregular and narrow; but in the outskirts they are regular and well built, with ornamented gardenground in front. The Royal Square, the chief open space within the town, contains the par. church, built in 1341, the court-house, reading-rooms, and a large hotel. The principal public buildings, besides these, are the theatre, gaol, and two chapels, one being of Gothic architecture. This chapel and the theatre are the only edifices that have any claim to architectural beauty. The market-place is an enclosure within a wall and iron palisades, and the market on Saturday presents a magnificent display of vegetables, fruit, and flowers, besides poultry and game from France, all at very moderate charges. Fort Regent, which cost 800,000, was erected in 1806, and possesses all the usual defences of a regular fortress; but it has little accommodation for troops, and is said to have been injudiciously planned. Another fortress, Elizabeth Castle, (so called, because it was first built in Queen Elizabeth's reign), stands on a rocky island m. from the shore, which at low water may be reached on foot by means of a long natural causeway: it contains extensive barracks, and appears to be a strong position. Lord Clarendon resided here two years while writing his history of the Rebellion. The harbour of St. Helier's is formed by two piers jutting out into the bay at the S. end of the town. (See JERSEY.) (Inglis's Channel Islands, i. 11-30.)

HELIGOLAND or HELGOLAND (an. Hertha), an island belonging to Great Britain, in the North Sea, 26 m. from the mouths of the Elbe and Weser, Area 5à

sq. m. Pop. (1834) 2,221. It is divided into 2 parts, a high cliff and and a low plain communicating with each other by a ledge of rocks, on which is cut a flight of 190 steps. The elevated part is about 4,000 paces in circ., a precipitous rock of red conglomerate, varying from 90 to 170 ft. in height, and covered on the top with thin herbage, but without tree or shrub: the lower part is much smaller, and the entire circ. of the island is less than 4 m. The dimensions are continually lessening, owing to the encroachments of the sea, which, in 1770, separated a part of the island, now an uninhabited sandbank. Lyell (Geol. b. i. ch. 7.) attributes its destruction to the contest between the waters of the Elbe and Weser, and the strong ocean-tides of the North Sea. On the summit of the cliffs stands the lighthouse, lat. 54° 11′ 34′′ N., and long. 7° 53′ 13′′ E., maintained from dues paid by British vessels entering the port of Hamburg. The church also, and the batteries, are conspicuous objects from the sea. Since 1821, when the military establishment was broken up, the batteries have been dismantled, and are falling to decay. The church is a plain structure, erected in 1682, the duties of which are performed by a Lutheran clergyman salaried by government, who is likewise the head master of the free school, which is attended by 320 children. The little town on the cliff consists of about 350 houses, chiefly inhabited by small traders and fishermen. On the lower part of the island are about 70 fishermen's huts, the only remains of the numerous storehouses standing here during the war, when this island was the centre of an extensive contraband trade. (Convers. Lexicon.) Heligoland has two good natural harbours, one on the N., the other on its S. side; and E. of it is a roadstead, where vessels may anchor in 48 fathoms. The people, who are of Frisian extraction, and speak a dialect of that language, are chiefly employed in the haddock and lobster fisheries, the produce of which is taken to Hamburg, and exchanged for those necessaries which this island does not supply: some thousands of the lobsters come, also, to the London market. The annual value of these fisheries is said (Dict. Géog., art. Heligoland) to average 5,000l. a year. Many of the people are excellent pilots, and, being licensed by the island authorities, procure lucrative employment from vessels of all nations entering the Elbe. The females of the pop. are chiefly engaged in raising a little barley and oats on spots where vegetation will thrive, and in tending the few sheep (about 150) that graze on the downs. This dependency, though useless in time of peace, serves in war for a point of observation, and a dépôt for produce. It costs at present from 8507. to 9007. a year.

Heligoland, in ancient times, was the residence of a chief of the Sicambri or N. Frieslanders, and was the seat of worship of the Saxon goddess Phoseta, from which circumstance its name (holy-land) was derived. It was in the possession of Denmark till 1807, when it was taken by the English, who have since retained it. HELLESPONT. Sce DARDANELLES. HELMSTADT, a town of N.W. Germany, duchy Brunswick, distr. Schöningen, and cap. circle same name, 22 m. E. by S. Brunswick, and 30 m. W. Magdeburg; lat. 51° 13 45' N., long. 11° 1′ 15′′ E. Pop., in 1838, 6,400. It is an old-fashioned walled town, with four gates; and the fortifications are turned into public walks, lined with lime-trees. Its two suburbs are called Ostendorf and Neumark. The places most worthy of note are the principal square, the Lutheran church of St. Stephen, the town-hall, and the circle-tribunal, once the university building. Besides these, there are 3 other churches, 3 hospitals, and an orphan asylum. Near the town, in the forest of Marienburg, are some medicinal springs; and on the Corneliusburg are the Lubbensteine, four enormous altars of Thor and Odin, surrounded with a circle of stones somewhat similar to that seen at Abury, in Wiltshire. It was once the seat of a university, founded by Julius duke of Brunswick in 1575, which was in a most flourishing state, till the establishment of Göttingen university thinned its members. It was suppressed in 1809 by Jerome Bonaparte, and a portion of its library removed to Göttingen. A gymnasium and a normal school are the only existing establishments for education. Helmstadt is the seat of a general superintendency, and a place of considerable trade for its size. Flannels, hats, tobacco-pipes, soap, spirits and liqueurs are its chief manufactures. It trades with Prussia, and has four markets in the year. It is believed to have been originally built by the emperor Charlemagne in 782. HELSTONE, a parl. bor., market town, and par. of England, co. Cornwall, hund. Kerrier, 242 m. W. by S. London, and 15 m. S.W. Truro. Area of par. 130 acres; pop. of do. (1831) 3,293. The town stands on the side of a hill sloping to the river Loe or Cober, which is here crossed by a bridge. The houses are chiefly ranged along four streets, which cross each other at right angles; it is well paved, lighted with gas, and abundantly supplied with water by streams running through the streets. Near the centre of the town is an ancient town-hall, and there

is a coinage hall, now disused and let for private dwellings. The church (a chapel of ease dependent on the vicarage of Wendron) is a modern structure, on high ground, having a fine pinnacled tower 90 ft. high. The dissenters also have two places of worship, and the Sunday schools are attended by 500 children. The grammarschool, recently revived, has a high character; and there is a good national school. Helstone is the market for an extensive farming district, and also participates in the advantages derived from the mining speculations in the immediate neighbourhood: the mechanics are numerous, especially shoemakers, and the town is, on the whole, in a thriving state. Loe Pool, about 1 m. below the town, dries at low water; but facilities have lately been afforded to the trade by sea by the improvement of the harbour of Portleven, about 3 m. distant. Iron, coal, and timber are imported in large quantities, for the use of the neighbouring mines. A singular cus tom prevails here, called the Furrey-dance, a kind of joyous procession, celebrated May 8., which is always observed as a holiday. The town received its first charter from King John; and Edward 1. made it a coinage town, with the privilege of sending 2 mems. to the й. of C. The governing charter of the corporation, previously to the Municipal Reform Act, was granted in 1774. The lastmentioned act vested the government in 4 aldermen and 12 councillors. Corp. rev., in 1839, 8247. Previously to the Reform Act, the elective franchise was vested in the freemen, elected by the mayor and aldermen; but it had been for many years a mere nomination bor. belonging to the Duke of Leeds. The Boundary Act added to the old bor. the entire par. of Sithney, which had, in 1831, a pop. of 2,772, and a large portion of the par. of Wendron; so that the pop. of the parl. bor. may be estimated at from 7,000 to 8,000. Registered electors, in 1838-39, 366. Markets on Wednesdays and Saturdays; fairs on the Saturdays before Mid-lent Sunday and Palm Sunday, and on Whit-Monday, July 20., Sept. 9., Oct. 28., and the first three Saturdays in December. (Polwhcle's Cornwall; Parl. Rep.)

HELVOETSLUYS, or HELLEVOETSLUIS, a fortified town and port of Holland, prov. S. Holland, on the Haring-vliet, the largest mouth of the Rhine, 16 m. S.W. by W. Rotterdam. Pop. 1,644. Its excellent harbour, capable of accommodating the whole Dutch navy, runs through the centre of the town, and, being bounded by a pier on either side, extends a considerable way into the river'; it has also a large arsenal, and docks for the construction and repair of ships of war, and a naval school. It used to be the regular station for the English and Dutch packet-boats, which sailed to and from Harwich twice a week, till the adoption of steampackets for the conveyance of the English mail to Rotterdam, in 1823. Our great deliverer William III. embarked at Helvoetsluys for England in 1688. (De Cloet; Dict. Geog., &c.)

HEMEL-HEMPSTEAD, a market town and par. of England, co. Hertford, hund. Dacorum, 22 m. N. W. London, and 16 m. W. Hertford. Area of par., 7,310 acres. Pop. (1831), 4,759. The dependent chapelries of Bovingdon and Flaunden have also an area of 5,130 acres ; and a pop., in 1831, of 1,278. The town stands on the slope of a hill, close to the small river Gade, and consists of a main street, lined with tolerably good houses. The church, in a spacious churchyard, is cruciform, with an embattled tower surmounted by a high octagonal steeple: the architecture was originally Norman, and the W. door is considered by Dallaway one of the finest specimens in England: many alterations and enlargements have, however, been made at subsequent periods, which greatly diminish the beauty of the edifice. The town-hall, the only other public edifice, is a long narrow building, with an open space underneath for the accommodation of the farmers, who bring thither large quantities of corn for sale on Thursday, the market-day. Within the par. are 2 endowed free schools, one for 13 boys, the other for 15 girls; besides which there are 2 infant schools, 2 national schools, and 2 schools of industry, altogether attended by upwards of 200 children: the Sunday schools have nearly 300 scholars. The chief employment of the female part of the pop. is straw plaiting. and this art is taught to about 280 children, m 24 dameschools. In the neighbourhood are some of the largest and most perfect paper-mills in the empire; and within 4 m. of the town there are numerous four-mills. The Grand Junction Canal and Birmingham Railway are 13 m.S.W. and greatly contribute to increase the traffic of the place, by the facility they afford for the transit of corn and other agricultural produce. Hemel-Hempstead was incorporated by Henry VIII., and the inhab. are empowered to have a bailiff, and to hold courts of pie-poudre during fairs and markets. This corporation, however, is mentioned neither in the commissioners' report, nor in the schedules of the Municipal Reform Act.

Markets on Thursday: fair for sheep, Holy Thursday; statute-fair, 3d Monday in September. HENLEY-ON-THAMES, a market town, mun.

bor., and par. of England, co. Oxford, hund. Binfield, on the W. bank of the Thames, 22 m. S.E. Oxford, 35 m. W. London. Area of par. 1,920 acres; pop of ditto, in 1831, 3,618. The town is beautifully situated at the foot of the Chiltern range, which is here well covered with beech and other forest timber. The E. entrance is by a handsome stone bridge, of 5 arches, built in 1786; and the first object presenting itself to the view on entering from London, is the church, a handsome, though irregular Gothic structure, built at different times, and having a lofty tower, ornamented at the angles with taper octagonal turrets, rising to considerable height above the battlements. It contains some curious monuments, and a library bequeathed by Dean Aldrich in 1737. The High Street, which runs W. from the bridge, is wide, well paved, and lighted, and lined with good houses: at its further end, on the rise of a hill, stands the townhall, a neat building, on pillars, having on the upper story a hall, council chamber, and other rooms; its lower part, which is open, being used as a market-house. Crossing the High Street at right angles are two other streets, much narrower, and lined with inferior houses. There are places of worship for Independents and Wesleyan Methodists, some almshouses endowed by Longland, Bishop of Lincoln, and several schools. The principal of the latter are the United Charity Schools," founded in 1604, and endowed with land, realising 370. yearly: the establishment, as revived in 1774, consists of an upper school, in which 25 boys receive class instruction, and a lower school, which provides 60 boys with a plain education, and 20 out of that number with clothing: besides this school, which is by no means in a thriving condition, there is a national school, attended by 124 boys and 72 girls; an infant school, with 160 children; and three Sunday schools. A savings' bank was established in 1817. The chief industry of Henley is malting, but the trade has much declined of late years; and the town can scarcely be said to possess any peculiar manufacture at the present time. It is a corp. town, its governing charter being granted in 1722, having a recorder, 10 aldermen (one of whom is mayor), and 16 burgesses. In consequence of the statement made by the commissioners, "that it may be questionable whether any considerable advantage can be derived from a municipal institution in so small a community, especially as the income of the corp. is too limited to enable them to do any thing material for the improvement of the town" (Mun. Corp. Rep.), this bor. was left untouched by the Municipal Reform Act. The members of the corp. have the patronage of various local charities; but the income at their disposal amounts only to about 701. yearly. Quarter sessions and a court for the recovery of small debts are held here. Markets on Thursday, for corn and other grain: fairs, March 7., Holy Thursday, Thursday in Trinity week, and the Thursday after Sept. 21., chiefly for horses, cattle, and sheep. (Bingley's Beaut. of Engl.; Parl. Papers.)

HERACLEA PONTICA, also called PERINTHUS, a famous marit. city of antiquity, now called Erekli, on the N. coast of Asia Minor, on the Euxine Sea; lat. 41° 16' N., long. 31° 30′ E. Heraclea, says Major Rennell, "has filled the page of history with its grandeur and misfortunes; and its remains testify its former importance." Diodorus Siculus describes it as situated on an elevated neck of land about one stadium in length, the houses thickly set, and conspicuous for their height, out-topping one another, so as to give it the appearance of an amphitheatre. This is exactly the appearance that it exhibits at the present day: and the harbour, though neglected, is magnificent, forming a roadstead like a horse-shoe. The walls are now in a ruinous condition, and constructed chiefly of the remains of a former rampart. In the part fronting the sea, where are the remains both of an inner and an outer wall, huge blocks of basalt and limestone are piled one on another and intermingled with columns and fragments of Byzantine cornices with Christian inscriptions. The castle upon the height is in ruins. Only a part of the ancient city was contained within the wall, the outer portion extending, in the form of a triangle, to a small river-valley, in which was formerly a harbour defended by two towers. The modern town comprises 5 mosques, 2 khans, 2 public baths, and about 300 houses, 50 of which belong to Greek Christians and the rest to Mahommedans. According to the Dict. Géog., it manufactures linen cloth, and exports flax, silk, wax, and timber, importing coffee, sugar, rice, tobacco, and iron.

The ancient Heraclea, founded by the Megareans, early attained to considerable wealth and importance as a place of trade. The inhab. maintained their independence for several years, subject only to a tribute paid to the Persian monarch. The Heracleots supplied the 10,000 Greeks, under Xenophon, on their memorable retreat, with vessels to carry them back to Cyzicus. The republican government was overthrown, about anno 380 B. C., by Clearchus, one of the chief citizens, in whose family the government continued nearly a century. Heraclea furnished succours to Ptolemy against Antigonus;

and afterwards, notwithstanding the aid furnished to Rome by its marine, and a treaty of alliance, both offensive and defensive, with that powerful state, it was pillaged by Cotta, under the pretext that it had resisted the exactions of the publicans (or tax-farmers) of Rome. Its splendid library, temple, and public baths were plundered and set on fire, and many of the inhab. put to death by the conqueror. The city, however, continued to flourish under the Roman emperors, and coins of Trajan and Severus are extant, in which it is styled metropolis and augusta. The fleet of the Goths waited here for the return of the second expedition that, in the time of Gallienus, ravaged Bithynia and Mysia; and it is mentioned as still prosperous even so recently as the reign of Manuel Commenus. Athenæus informs us that it was celebrated for its wine, almonds, and nuts. (Tournefort, ii. Walsh's Constant. 101.; Geog. Journ. ix.; Dict. Géog.)

HERAT, or HERAUT, formerly HERI (an. Aria or Artacoana), a city of W. Caubul, in antiquity the cap. of Ariana, and one of the most renowned cities of the E., and still the largest and most populous town of the modern prov. of Khorassan, and the cap. of an independent chiefship. It stands on the Herirood (an. Arius), in a fertile plain, 380 m. W. by N. Caubul, 270 m. N.W. Candahar, 410 m. N.E. Yezd, and 410 m. S.S.W. Bokhara; lat. 34° 50′ N., long. 62° 27′ E. Pop. estimated some years since by Christie at 100,000; but at present it does not probably exceed 45,000 (Elphinstone, Conolly, &c.), of whom 2-3ds are native inhab.; about 1-10th part Dooraunee Afghans, and the rest Moguls, Eimauks, Hindoo merchants, Jews, and other strangers. Previously to 1824, when the city was besieged by the Candahar troops, it covered a large extent of ground, having had some considerable suburbs outside the walls. It now consists of only the fortified town, 3-4ths of a m. square, surrounded with lofty walls of unburnt brick, erected upon a solid mound formed by the earth of a broad wet ditch, which goes entirely round the city, and is filled by springs within itself. There are 5 gates, each defended by a small outwork; and on the N. side of the fortress is the citadel, a square castle of burnt brick, flanked with towers at the angles, and, like the town itself, built on a mound enclosed by a wet ditch. The interior of Herat is divided into quarters by 4 long bazaars, covered with arched brick, which run from 4 of the gates, and meet in a small domed quadrangle in the centre of the city. (Conolly.) It is said to have about 4,000 dwelling-houses, 1,200 shops, 17 caravanseras, and 20 baths, besides many mosques, and fine public reservoirs. But, notwithstanding a plentiful supply of water, and abundant means for insuring cleanliness, Herat is one of the dirtiest places in the E. "Many of the small streets which branch from the main ones are built over, and form low dark tunnels, containing every offensive thing. No drains having been contrived to carry off the rain which falls within the walls, it collects and stagnates in ponds, which are dug in different parts of the city. The residents cast out the refuse of their houses into the streets, and dead cats and dogs are commonly seen lying upon heaps of the vilest filth. Rusm ust-it is the custom-was the only apology I heard from those even who admitted the evil." (Conolly, ii. 3, 4.) The residence of the prince is a mean building, standing before an open square, in the centre of which is the gallows and the great mosque. The latter, a lofty and spacious edifice, supposed to date from the 12th century, surmounted with elegant domes and minarets, and ornamented with shining painted tile, is going to decay. "But though the city of Herat," says Conolly, "be as I have described it, without the walls all is beauty. The town is 4 m. distant from hills on the N., and 12 from those which run S. of it. The space between the hills is one beautiful extent of little fortified villages, gardens, vineyards, and cornfields. A bund is thrown across the Herirood; and its waters, being turned iuto many canals, are so conducted over the vale of Herat, that every part of it is watered. The most delicious fruits are grown in the valley; the necessaries of life are plentiful and cheap; and the bread and water of Herat are proverbial for their excellence." (Ib. ii 4,5.) Herat, from its extensive trade, has acquired the appellation of bundar, or emporium, it being a grand centre of the commerce between Caubul, Cashmere, Bokhara, Hindostan, and Persia. From the N., E., and S., the chief goods received are shawls, indigo, sugar, chintz, muslins, leather, and Tartary skins, which are exported to Meshed, Yezd, Kerman, Ispahan, and Tehran ; whence dollars, tea, china-ware, broad cloth, copper, pepper, and sugar candy, dates and shawls from Kerman, and carpets from Ghaen, are imported. The staple commodities of Herat are saffron and assafoetida: silk is obtainable in the neighbourhood, but not in sufficient quantity for commerce. Many lamb and sheep skins are made up into caps and cloaks; and when Conolly visited the city, there were in it more than 150 shoemakers' shops. The latter were, however, inadequate to supply the demand of the prov., and many camel loads of slip