Mahometans, who as furiously deftroyed every monument and curious veftige not expreffive of their doctrine, as they were actuated by a blind zeal in its propagation and support, have endeavoured to claim the conftruction of this pillar, and over the Hindoo record, they have engraved the names of many of their emperors, fince the time of Babr.*

This pillar, which bears the mark of great antiquity, clearly evinces that Allahabad was a place of importance long before the æra of the Mahometan conquest of India. We should pass indeed a contemptuous, not to fay an unjust cenfure, on the understanding of the ancient Hindoos, did we fuppofe that they had overlooked a situation, at once so favourable to the performance of their religious duties, and fo happily adapted to the enjoyments of life. Almost as many cities have been brought forward by modern writers to prefer their claims to the Polybortha of India, asof old, contested for the birth-place of Homer. Monfieur d'Anville, the celebrated French geographer, feems to give the palm to Allahabad. Strabo has made mention of a grand causeway, leading from Polybortha into the interior parts of the country, and as fuch structures are durable and confpicuous, it is to be fuppofed that fome remains of this road would have yet been visible; but on a careful examination I could not difcover its moft diftant trace. A mound of earth appears on the western fhore of the Ganges,

The first Emperor of the race of Timur, who fat on the throne of Hindoftan.

extending

extending about a mile in a line with the river where it approaches the fort, which has been evidently thrown up to prevent the stream in the seasons of the floods, from overflowing or injuring the town.

In touching on the subject of Allahabad, it is neceffary to notice the tomb of Sultan Khufro. This maufoleum, about a mile to the eastward of the town, stands in the midft of a spacious garden enclosed with a high wall, and well fupplied with a variety of flower and fruit trees, but from want of culture they look rugged and barren. Being clad in the Mahometan habit, and intimating a defire to offer up my prayers at the royal shrine, I was immediately admitted. The public edifices of the Mahometans being conftructed of the worst fpecies of what is termed the Gothic order, they cannot afford much pleasure to the European eye, which is now taught to regard only the more fimple and chafte proportions of art.* Yet the tomb of Khufro, though comprising few of the rules of architecture, hath in its appearance fomething peculiarly pleafing, and diffufes around it an air of melancholy, congenially fuited to the purpose of its foundation. The building is nearly a fquare, raised from the ground by a low flight of steps, and has a vaulted roof in the form of a dome, whose outside is covered with tiles of a fine clay, stained with a diverfity of colours, on which the reflection of

* This opinion does not presume to include the monuments at Agra, which have deferved the warmest approbation of our celebrated artists.

the

the fun produces a pleafing effect. No fund being established for fupporting this monument, it cannot long furvive the numerous edifices now scattered in ruins through the environs of Allahabad. Adjoining to the tomb of Khufro, is one of a smaller size, which a mendicant informed me was erected in commemoration of one of the female branches of the imperial family. Some Mahometan priests who live in the garden, keep the inside of the maufoleum decently clean, and the different appurtenances are still in good preservation, particularly the wooden bier in which the body is faid to be depofited.* Obferving a small curtain spread on the wall, I drew it aside, and must confefs to you that I was impressed with a very sensible awe, on discovering the figure of an open hand, engraved on black marble: when I adverted to the nature of the place, and the use to which it had been applied, I at first supposed that this representation denoted the hand, or the power of the Deity; but a farther recollection informed me, that Mahomed, Ali, Fatima,+ Huffin, and Huffein, were defcribed by this emblem; and that in compliance with the law which excludes all works of sculpture and painting from Mahometan worship, it had been covered.

THE Allahabad districts once paid into the royal treasury a re

* Sultan Khufro, the eldest son of Tehanquir, died A. D. 1622.

+ Fatima, the daughter of Mahomed, was married to Ali, and had two fons, Huffin and Huffein.

venue

veune of between feventy and eighty lacks of rupees, but fuch is the impoverished and depopulated state of the Vizier's country, that it is at this day reduced to a fourth of that amount. Shaiftah Khan, who was appointed by Aurungzebe to govern the provinces of Bengal and Bahar after the death of Amir Jumlah,* hath left many monuments of his liberality in the vicinity of Allahabad. On an insulated rock in the Jumna, near the city, and at a small distance from the fouth fhore, he built a lofty apartment, which is cooled by the refreshing winds of the river, and commands a diftant and wildly diversified view. A Perfian inscription which I transcribed, fays that Mahomed Shirreef, in the year of the Hegira, 1055,† finished this airy feat of pleasure by order of Shaiftah Khan. But from great men and their fplendid works, let me descend to more trivial concerns, and to fome account of my private adventures.

INDIA, you know, hath ever been famed for affording conve nient places of accomodation to the traveller, who at the dif tance of eight and ten miles, feldom fails meeting with a public lodging, or a reservoir of water, where he may perform his ablu • tions, and quench his thirst. As the greater part of the inhabi tants of India, from a fimplicity of life, and the clement ftate of their climate, have but few fuperfluous wants; a flight defence

*The officer employed by Aurungzebe to oppofe Sultan Shujah.

+ A. D. 1645.

VOL. I.

K

againft

against the fun and rain, a small portion of cloathing, with plain,

food, conftitute a large fhare of their real ones. In upper India, the œconomy of Karawan Serah,* or as it is ufually called the Serauce, is conducted by better regulations, and its conveniencies more fenfible felt, than in the southern parts of India. An inclosed area, the interior fides of which contain small apartments, fronting inwards with a principal gate-way, is appropriated in every village of note, to the use of travellers. The stationary tenants of the ferauce,‡ many of them women, and some of them very pretty, approach the traveller on his entrance, and in alluring language defcribe to him the various excellencies of their feveral lodgings. When the choice is made, (which is often perplexing, fo many are the inducements thrown out on all fides of him) a bed § is laid out for his repofe—a fmoaking pipe is brought, and the utensils cleaned, for preparing his repast. The necessary

* Keravanserah is a Persee and Arabic compound of Kar, fignifying business, rawan the participle of the verb rufteen, to go, move, proceed, &c. and of ferah, an habitation. The Tucktravan, a vehicle used by travellers in many parts of Afia, is composed of the words, tuckt, a feat, or board, and the aforementioned participle. I have ventured to infert thefe etymologies for the use of those who are not converfant in the Perfian Language.

+ Shere Shah, who drove Humaim from the throne of Delhi, in 1542, is faid to have been the first Mahometan who established Karavanferahs in India. This fact, alfo recorded in Dow's history, is well known amongst the natives.-Shere Shah built the fort of Rhotas, and the maufoleum of Safferam.

The ferauces at this day are ufually given in rent.

This piece of furniture, of very fimple conftruction, has low feet, with the fides and ends formed of bamboo or common rough wood, and the bottom of laced cords.

fum