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you, that to-day I lost my road; instead of simply going to Manickpour, my place of destination, I went to Kurrah Manickpour, where I passed a very unpleasant night. The air was intensely cold, and my servants who pursued the right road, carried with them my baggage and my purse. The good woman at the serauce,' old, though very activė, kindly provided a supper at the risk of not being paid, for I had advised her of the miscarriage ; but she could procure no succedaneum for a quilt, so that I was kept shiveringly awake the whole night.

ADJOINING to the village of Kurrah Manickpour, on a hill, are the remains of a considerable fort.. Amongst the ruins I observed i some mutilated fragments of Hindoo sculpture, of the same style as that seen on a curious monument of ancient date in the neiglibourhood of Benares. Festoons of flowers are sculptured on this monument, which for the fimple elegancy of the design and taste," : as well as the exact nicety of the execution, may, in my opinion, vie with the works of European masters. The Hindoos of this day have a slender knowledge of the rules of proportion, and none of perspective. They are just imitators, and correct workmen ; but they possess merely the glimmerings of genius.*

On the 23d, crossed the Ganges at Gootree, two iniles below

* This observation is verified at a village oppofite the city of Benares, at the gardens of Ramnagur, where Cheyt Sing has erected a large range of costly buildings, in fome of which stone figures are placed, of very aukward dimensions and dull expression.


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Kurrah Manickpour, and arrived at Mustaphabad, a stage of nine cosses. Almas Ali Khan is the manager or renter of a large tract of country lying on the south of the Ganges, which appears in a less desolate state than any other part of the Vizier's dominions which I have foen. From the ruins of Kurrah fort, the Ganges is seen winding beautifuily round the bottom of the hill, and on the northern Thore, immediately opposite, stands the village of Manickpour. I found my servants at Mustaphabad, to whom I referred the hospitable hostess, who had been obliged to accompany me so far, for payment of the last night's score.

On the 24th, -at Bareily, a fortified town, 12 coffes. The country from the last station is much covered with jungle, * and where the prospect opened, but little cultivation appeared, except in the districts of Almas, which are but comparatively well conditioned. I have seen only a land of desolation, exhibiting the scattered vestiges of former prosperity.

On the 25th, - at Doolindy, 8 cosses. The principal town of a district, rented by one of the Viziers favorite Hindoos, who has laid out a large garden at this place, in which are two neat fummer houses.

On the 26,-at Saseindy, 10 cosses. There is little else to note than the wild appearance of a barren country; the reverse of what I expected to see in the vicinity of a capital city:

* All forest wood in India, is termed jungle.

Vol. I.



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On the 27th, -at Lucknow, 8 cosses. I took a lodging in the Astroff serauce; and to prevent as much as possible the risk of discovery, I discharged all my servants, except one, on whom I could place a reasonable confidence.

Lucknow is a large and populous city, but wholly inelegant and irregular. The streets are narrow, uneven, and almost choaked up

with every species of filth. The Goomty, running on the north side of the town, is navigable for boats of a common size at all seasons of the year, and falls into the Ganges between Benares and Ghazepour. A line of boats, extended across the river, forms a convenient communication with a large suburb. Shujah-ulDowlah made Fyzeabad, or. Oude, the capital of his dominion but his son, setting aside that, with many other of his father's arrangements, has fixed his residence at Lucknow.

PERCEIVING that some of my neighbours began to make inquisitive remarks, I went across the water, and procured a retired and commodious apartment in the Hussen Gunge ferauce. Having some business to transact at Lucknow, previously to my journey to Europe, I left my servants at the serauce, on pretence of visiting the English camp, the general rendezvous of idle frangers, and went to the city. Being desirous of seeing a gentleman, who I understood was stationed there, I approached the door of an officer's quarter, and desired the servants to acquaint their marter, that a Moghul merchant, of whom there are many at Lucknon, requested permission to see him. Though the entreaty was


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urged in the softest and most pursuasive tone within the compass of my speech, they flatly and roughly rejected it, saying that their master was eating his breakfast. Anxious to obtain the wanted information, I tried another door which seemed less closely guarded, but there also niy prayer was prefered in vain ; and having nothing in my pocket to strengthen the argument, I was obliged to retire ; though the day was extremely hot, and the distance to my lodging was at least four miles. This occurence, however productive of temporary inconvenience, gave me a satisfactory proof of the efficacy of my disguise, and the fluency of my Mahometan language. Many, I dare say, are the unfortunate plaintiffs in our Indian world, who unable to purchase a passage through the gates of the great, are thrust away by their rude and rapacious domestics.- In returning, I saw another European house, into which, by a fortunate change in the mode of application, I procured admittance: for on informing the door-keeper that my

attendance had been required, I was immediately conducted to his master, who received me in the kindest manner, and on many future occasions shewed me marks of his friendship. During my stay at Lucknow I lodged at the serauce, and though I remained there twenty days, in which time I made many visits to the English gentlemen, no one seemed to regard me with suspicion. My landlady at first expressed a strong desire of knowing the cause of my frequent excursions; but not receiving a satisfactory account, she concluded that I had formed some female intimacy. As this con

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jecture was favourable to my plan, I encouraged it in the mind of the good woman, who gave herself infinite credit for the difcovery.

I am, Dear Sir,

Your's, &c. &c.


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