Roman Catholic religion, the reformation having never taken such deep root in the highlands as it did in the lowland division of Scotland. The difference naturally resulted from the particular political condition of the mountaineers, who were much less exposed to the pernicious effects of royal misgovernment or clerical abuse. The sweeping consequence of the modern improvements in farming have done much, and will do more, to get rid of the religion and the people together, except in some parts of the west highlands, where the fisheries will make both more stationary. In a district on the western coast, with a population of about 700 persons, it is said that almost all are Roman Catholics; and this is the quarter of the highlands, to which the attention of those who take a particular concern in assisting the effects of the general progress of information, in promoting a purer system of Christian faith, ought to be, and probably is, specially directed. The contraction of the glen brings the road close upon the bank of the Spean, now dashing along its more narrow and rugged channel, with increased noise and violence, and continues it almost upon the brink of the river, till it reaches the head of the inhabited part of the valley, and the neat farmhouse before mentioned, placed in a fine pas

toral situation, with rich green fields and several straw or heath-thatched cottages in its imme. diate vicinity, bounded by dark hills and stu pendous mountains. From this point, the hills of the southern ridge are thrown back, and the glen opens into a wide circular moorish plain, to which some rich herbage, springing up among the heath, gives a fertile and pleasant appear

ance.

The moor is watered by two branches of the Spean, one from the east, which is the main stream, the other from the south, which, midway between the mountains where it rises, and the hills on the north, exhibits, as it appears from the road, a singular water-fall. The roar of the torrent at this point, rendered louder and more distinct by the echo of the mountains, and the sequestered situation and deep solitude of the surrounding scenery, attracts the attention of the traveller, who observes with surprise the shining rush of the current, apparently higher than its banks. The rock below, as it seems, sends up a sharp edge, extending across the whole breadth of the channel; and the water, dashing down upon this with considerable force, bounds foaming over the rock, presenting in its fall on the other side a brilliant and picturesque cascade.

The road, skirting the base of the hills on the

north, stretches for about seven or eight miles along the moor and northern bank of the principal branch of the Spean to the western end of Loch Laggan, from which the river issues.

The mountains in this tract are generally as lofty and stupendous as in any quarter of the highlands; but they are covered to the summits with short heath, intermixed with green herbage, and almost all over their bulk accessible to sheep and goats; so that the comparative fertility appeared very remarkable to one who had but a short time before seen the moor of Rannoch, and the black mountain, with the Etie Shepherd, and other wild masses of Glenco. On approaching near Loch Laggan, the wide moor terminates, and the space between the mountains is again contracted into a narrow valley, the plain or hollow of which, from this point for nine or ten miles to the general ridge, contains some of the finest and richest of highland pasture, especially on some fields on the banks of the river, which flows into the eastern end of Loch Laggan. The description which has been given of that lake in the General Report of Scotland, is that it "is situate in the "territory of Lochaber, about twelve miles "south of Fort Augustus, about eight miles "long, and one and a half broad, and lies in a

"wild romantic country, surrounded with high hills and much natural wood." The lake, which is probably farther from Kilcummin by some miles, than the distance above mentioned, is embosomed in a wood, chiefly birch, intermixed with several other kinds (among which some oaks were observed), which extends along the whole of its length on both sides. The birch-trees in the wood, on the north side, through which the road passes, are almost all nearly rotten with age, and in a very few years none of them will be standing. Some of the other trees were sound and thriving. The wood on the south side appeared to be altogether much more abundant and flourishing; and it has been said that, in the middle of it, there is a spot which has been regarded in the vicinity with superstitious veneration from the most ancient times, and is thought to have been the burial place of the Caledonian kings, when they had the seat of government at Dunkeld. On a huge rock, near this place, the remains of a fortification are stated to be still visible. In this lake, there are two islets, one of which is called Elan nan cou (the Dog Island), and from this circumstance it has been conjectured that it had been the kennel to some hunting seat, formerly established in this quarter.

On reaching a height in the valley, about two or three miles from the east end of this fine lake, the traveller is again on the general ridge of Scotland, about fifty miles north of the place where it was crossed at Tyandrum. Some of the torrents from mountains on each side, being the remotest sources of the Spean and Lochy, run to the westward in the stream, which flows into Loch Laggan, and join the firth of Lochaber and Western Ocean at Inverlochy; while others, being part of the sources of the Spey, are carried in that river to the Murray firth and German Ocean. On both sides of the ridge, the green pasture on the banks of the streams was rich and abundant, and, although unquestionably preserved for winter use, appeared astonishingly fresh considering the season of the year. Some substantial houses were seen among several straw or heath-thatched cottages, and the fields and buildings altogether had the appearance of considerable and progressive improvement. Near the road, and about the summit of the ridge, which is mossy and barren, there is a kind of whiskey house, being a mud hovel, run up in haste, apparently for the temporary purpose of taking advantage of the want of a proper inn in this vicinity. The descent from the ridge on the Badenach side, on the