a wild ferociousness of air, which is highly characteristic of their wandering life. This interesting group would have been a fine study of costume for HAYTEK's accurate pencil. Two of this party joined

us, and in a mixed dialect of Persian and Arabic, asked me if I was not going to Sulimániah; for, said they, "we are anxious to visit that city, to pay our respects to SUʼLIMAN PASHA, and if possible, to obtain his head for a foot-ball." Not liking the appearance of these cavaliers, I was determined to try at an escape by a ruse de guerre; so exclaimed, with a feigned astonishment, Sulimániah! then, I have been misdirected, I am bound for Hamadán, and find I am wandering from my way!" This had a proper effect; for they faced about, and joined their companions. We rode for nine farsangs through a country remarkably well cultivated. The valley we had entered presented an inclined surface to the west, from ten to fifteen miles broad, including the skirts of the hills on either side, little interrupted with irregularities, and all capable of the richest culture, though a great portion lay waste; but the villages were so thinly scattered over it, that it was surprising to see the extent cultivated. The whole soil of the valley was of a fine light-coloured clayey loam ; its surface being slightly diversified by hillocks, chiefly artificial, the sites of old villages. A stream of no great natural size, but at this time swelled by the dissolving snows, glided through it, and the hills undulated and retreated into small plains, which were luxuriantly cultivated. I was told that these glens produced wonderful crops, with the aid of a little artificial irrigation. The main valley appeared less productive, but sufficiently so to prove the existence of great fertility of soil, and human industry. Few parts of Persia could equal it.

As the inhabitants of the villages are both shepherds and cultivators, they were at this time ploughing the land. During summer they descend to reap the harvest, and leave their wives and children in care of their meadows, and the flocks that graze upon them.

Continuing our route, we passed through an irregular and winding ascent, which brought us to the village of Bogám, situated on the bank of a small rill, which ran into the river Jakuntú. Nothing could exceed the appearance of poverty which prevailed throughout the place, or the want of comfort and security. This is doubtless to prevent the excitement of any cupidity; for even this appearance of squalid misery does not protect the inhabitants from oppression; nor in this neighbourhood are they ever free from the incursions of the Persians. It was only the other day, that JAFAR KU'LI Khán, the governor of Marang ha, was ordered by Prince ABBÁS MIRZA to

render this part of Kúrdistan a desert, and to destroy by fire and the sword all the hamlets and their inmates that might cross his track. The Prince's order ran thus: "hang the men upon the trees, and tear them asunder; rip up the women, and tread over them." Upon his approach, the inhabitants flew to the adjacent mountain gorges, and over summits which, as the Persian poet observes, were never trod by human foot, and scarcely ever by the wild birds of heaven." The order was obeyed in regard to this village, which is now little better than a heap of ashes. Two short years have only passed since I was here on my homeward route, and then Bogám was a flourishing little town.

Not being able to procure forage for our cattle, or even refreshment for ourselves, we departed hence before the dawn of day.' Mírady, the object of our march, lay at a distance of thirty-five miles, and the road appeared unusually rugged. About noon we reached a lovely plain surrounded by mountains. Spring had already strewed the ground with her richest bloom; and the brightness of the sky, together with the picturesque appearance of the country, filled the mind with delightful ideas. A serpentine stream meandered through this delicious spot, and the most beautiful lawns diversified the scene. At length we came in sight of the village, and were soon received by its chief, who ordered his women to give us the best room in his cottage. They busied themselves with great humour in clearing away their domestic utensils, and lighted a bright fire for the evening. These women were fair and handsome; they had black eyes, and long dark hair; low in stature, with delicate features. The children of both sexes had fine ruddy complexions, though of course they soon contract a tawny hue. The women of this district appeared very industrious, and always were seen assisting in the toils of agriculture; and on no occasion did they conceal their faces, but went about entirely unveiled; though it was considered a mark of impoliteness to stare at them, nevertheless, they appeared highly gratified at exciting our attention, and we clearly perceived that vanity was the characteristic of the sex in this, as well as other, countries.

After being served with delicious cheese made from the milk of sheep, and some excellent flat cakes of bread, the chief of the village invited me to his home. On entering the house, I saw three or more men seated in a corner of one of the rooms, with some rudelooking instruments resting on their laps. One resembled our flageolet; another, the guitar; and a third, the kettle-drum. A signal being made, one of the men advanced, and seating himself in the

centre of the room, sung a wild air, which was neither pleasing nor melodious. After this, two boys got up and danced; placing themselves in a variety of extraordinary attitudes, which consisted principally of gesticulation. The old chief said, he considered dancing both mean and ignoble, as it was practised by none except such as make a trade of it for hire. But he must have spoken ironically; since the moment they were done, one of the boys presented me with a chibouque, and was very officious, which intimated, that a recompense was expected for the evening's amusement.

April 7th. After taking a hasty meal, and smoking a chibouque with the chief of the village, we continued our way south-easterly, through a glen, where it was refreshing to observe the quantity of cultivation that appeared on every side. On entering a larger valley, a great extent of meadow land was observed, as well as several hamlets. Here also, for the first time, did we remark wood in any considerable quantity upon the hills on our right, which were a ramification of the great Zagros range. The trees were bare of leaves, which made it difficult to determine their species. We now entered a thick jungle, intermixed with rocks, and matted over by creepers. This spot I can never forget, for we were amid an endless variety of forest scenery. The masses of shade thrown down from the naked and fantastic crags that burst abruptly forth, the luxuriant fertility of the mountains, seen through the transparent clouds that floated along below their forest-crested summit, the awful stillness, and the immensity of individual objects, were pregnant with delight and amazement. I have often gazed amid these wilds, while beauty after beauty bore in upon my eye and mind, till I have turned away with a painful fulness at heart; and if my delight were more than was fit for the frame that felt it, I sometimes really thought there must have been some deleterious power in the air breathed in these scenes, until I remembered their palpable and irrefutable beauty. I looked upon the present prospect as if I knew I should never see it again. The snow-capped mountains were towering before us, the sea of forests spreading around; far below, a beautiful stream rippled in the sun, and sent up the music of its plash! The small Muhammedan sepulchre, overshadowed by the tamarisk, crested the banks on the opposite shore, whence streams spread through the bright green land they fertilized, to where a bulwark of hills rose to the clouds beyond the white summits of Mount Zagros.

To clear us from this wooded bower, we hired a shepherd, who appeared to have returned from the plain we had crossed in the morning. The man performed his task faithfully, being allowed no

temptation to do otherwise; and from his knowledge of the road, greatly shortened our distance. During the march, we frequently passed parties of ill-looking fellows, who were travelling to the town of Ouroomia, and whose inquiries about us, as they greeted our guide, excited something more than my curiosity. I therefore asked him, if those people would have lightened our cattle of their loads, had we been less prepared? Of course, he replied," and we of our village would do the same-we none of us scruple, when fair opportunities occur." This avowal, uttered with the greatest sang froid, evinced a resolute principle of rascality; but as we afforded no" fair opportunities," we got on famously together, till the necessity of our acquaintance ceased. We passed an extensive encampment of Eliáts under some overhanging rocks: their wild appearance, mingled with horses, asses, oxen, and sheep, were admirably characteristic of the place, as they met the eye, gathered together in groups around a fire, which emitted its thin spire of smoke. Had we known of their vicinity, we should certainly have endeavoured to pass by a circuitous path; and had they been apprised of us, our property would not perhaps have remained unmolested. They were very inquisitive, demanded whither we were travelling, talked both loud and long, and endeavoured to persuade us to remain for the night under the protection of their tents. The scenery around us became so singularly wild, that I regretted the approach of night. Our progress was often much impeded by the thickness of the wood; but on descending towards a small village, which appeared in a retired nook of the opposite hills, the cliffs grew more majestic, the precipices more lofty, and the forest more beautiful. On reaching the enclosure of the village, we were forced to remain a long time in waiting, before any shelter could be found for us; and after all, to take possession of a hut, hastily emptied for the occasion, full of dirt and vermin. Every thing was in confusion, and our foolish Muhammedan, instead of exerting himself, stood like a drunkard biting his whip, without ever offering the slightest assistance. Our evening meal was late and cold, and we retired to rest as little pleased with ourselves, as with our attendants. Next morning the inhabitants came in a body to assure us, that it would be impossible to cross the mountains without lightening the mules; and that even then, the passage would be extremely difficult. I thought this a mere pretext to obtain some money, so refused to employ them in any manner. However, they knew the state of the road better, and following the muleteers, soon convinced us that their services were indispensable. The morning was excessively cold, and as we approached the mountains we had

to ascend, the cattle wound through a sort of rut, or channel, worn in the solid rock, where the width barely allowed us to pass without touching its sides, so that we were frequently obliged to hold up both feet in a horizontal direction, level with the animal's back, to prevent their being bruised between its sides and the rock, which could not be avoided by any other mode. On reaching the base of the mountain, we found that it was extremely precipitous, and consequently were obliged to indent upon the villagers, who triumphantly came forward, and assisted in supporting our cattle. The ascent, which was circuitous and abrupt, occupied the space of four hours, and proved so distressing to the mules, that they were forced to be relieved of their loads. This appeared to assist them very immaterially, as huge masses of snow lay in ravines in every direction, and they sunk to the girths at each step, when, in endeavouring to rise, two of them rolled down the precipice with their loads, which consisted of dead bodies en route for Kerbala. On nearing the summit, the road was so terribly furrowed by the dissolving snows, that its ascent became nearly impracticable. The difficulty of this passage was heightened by the conduct of a body of Kúrds, who from the top had been watching our approach, and now commenced hurling large stones upon those bearing our baggage. My muleteer, who had been quaking for the safety of his mules, became much alarmed. "Stakhferallah!" he exclaimed, "there's enough of them, to be sure!" "Never fear, I replied; by the help of Allah, and the Prophet, we may check their fury." "Had we only a dozen brave Kazilbáshes, with their matchlocks and swords, you might then talk so; but now," said the old monkey-faced muleteer, "I fear I shall become a beggar; nevertheless, Allah-hu Akbar!" By this time our trunks had been thrown down in the snow, and the fray commenced with huge crooked sticks, sabres, and matchlocks, mounted with prongs, resembling a hay-maker's pitch-fork. The enemy soon lost the support of four of their party, who were conveyed away wounded, and the majority of the rest in all probability would have willingly given up a contest in which so little was to be gained. But there were among them some of a determined spirit, who urged on the rest to revenge their wounded companions, and exerted themselves successfully to inspire them with confidence. My pistols being loaded, I went amongst them, and threatened to shoot the leader, when they cried out with surprise, "They have guns." This appeared to cool their rage and determination, and on their retreating to the edge of the mountain, we succeeded on rolling them over its side, while the snow shelved down upon their heads, and nearly buried