mountain, ravine, and glen lay exposed to our glance; but were quickly obscured by the passing clouds. It was now easy to discover, without the help of any barometer but that of our own feelings, that we had reached a great elevation-a fact which was proved by the successive risings of hill over which our road was directed. Still ascending, we came to the extreme summit, from whence we saw the city of Sulimániah marked by trees in a nook of the mountains. It appeared beneath our feet, although we were full ten miles from it. In fact, from this lofty pinnacle, we seemed to descry at once all the kingdoms of the world, and the glory of them." Our descent was one of extreme difficulty; but our eyes were delighted with the general aspect of the valley below, and the situation of Sulimániah at the end of it. The hills by which it was surrounded on all sides were sufficiently broken in their outline to be picturesque, and the plain which skirted them at their feet was clothed in the richest verdure. The grain-fields assumed a lovely appearance; the gardens occupying distant portions of the valley, and a stream meandering through it, gave such a luxuriance to the picture, as to unite beauty with fertility, and wealth with usefulness. On nearing the city, a mound of considerable magnitude rises on the left of the road, which nearly resembled the tumuli of Greece. It is not improbable that the spot may mark the tomb of some Greek general. Many similar may be seen in Kúrdistán, which nearly resemble those in Wiltshire. Indeed, such remains of antiquity are spread over the whole surface of the globe. ancients, is most river Diála, in a Carducian range, Sulimániah, or Sulimáney, the Shehrazour of the romantically situated on the northern bank of the deep valley, irregularly formed by the bases of the which, covered with forests of oak, and clothed in snow to its summit, entrench it on every side. Its geographical position is 35° 30' north latitude, and 44° 45′ east longitude. During the retreat of HERACLIUS this city was distinguished by the name of Siazuros, and not far hence was the city of Holwán, the retirement of YEZDEJERD after the battle of Cadesia, a spot to which the Khalifs of Bagdad resorted during the summer season. It was ruined by HULAKO, and has never since recovered its consequence. Sulimániah is an unwalled town: its houses are built extremely low, which gives them a mean appearance, though doubtless they are better secured against the snows and cold of this elevated region. The streets are narrow, and run irregular; and there are neither good bazars nor fine mosques to relieve the dull monotony of the common buildings. The houses are mostly built of unhewn stones, plastered over with mud; though some few are constructed with bricks. The climate is said to be very fine, and the inhabitants, who approach to the number of 20,000, are robust and active: their aspects forbidding, their expressions of countenance harsh, and their complexions dark. The government of Sulimániah is in the hands of a Pasha, who is by birth a Kúrd, and subject to neither Turks nor Persians. His name is SULEMÁN, and he is highly popular and very indulgent. For the purpose of pleasing the Russians, he sends an annual present in cash to ABBAS MIRZA, who the northern barbarians hope will soon employ their officers in preference to those of the English. Count PASKEWITCH is desirous of taking the Kúrds under his especial protection, that in case of need, they may harass by their sudden and repeated incursions the inhabitants of those countries by which they are bounded. For such a duty they are eminently fitted. The military force for the defence of the town does not exceed 2000 men. About a fourth of that number are frequently in attendance at the palace, which is the Pasha's residence. It is a mean and ruined pile, composed of spacious courts and extensive inclosures. The trade of Sulimániah is in a very declining state; there are only two or three Armenians, agents for some Bagdad merchants, who receive gall-nuts in exchange for a few Indian commodities, which come up by the way of Bussorah. Nothing is known of the history of Sulimániah. M. NIEBUHR visited this part of the country in the year 1769, and found the people subject to a sort of feudal government. They are imagined to be the Carduchai of ZENOPHON, and their national character has descended unchanged from time immemorial. KINNEIR has made Sennah, which is situated about ninety-five miles to the eastward, the capital; but the Wály or chief of that town is a mere creature dependent upon His Majesty of Persia, to whom he transmits a handsome sum annually. The father of the present Wály was a man of great power and independence; but he became deranged, and unfortunately, madness would seem to run in the family, as his son has given ample proofs of it. Sulimániah is an extensive place, and forms a central emporium to the neighbouring tracts of cultivation. The country which surrounds it is charming; the soil gravelly, as far as its immediate vicinity; when it becomes more sandy, and of a light loamy nature. The rich appearance of the wheat and barley I have already noticed, the green at this time was most beautiful. We found the tillage of the district excellent; the fields being neatly divided into square compartments, for the benefit of irrigation. 66 Being the bearer of a letter for the Pasha, he assigned me a house in the best part of the city, and I found the people both civil and obliging. They pretend to pique themselves upon hospitality, but how its duties are discharged, will depend entirely on circumstances. For instance, in the year 1828, habited as a Turk, I travelled through Kúrdistán in company with a man who pretended to be a lineal descendant of the prophets; and we journeyed a distance of six hundred miles, halting at this city on the way, without spending the sum of ten Persian rials. The Seyad afterwards assured me, that he was offered a wife at every village through which we passed; but, added he, as I was your Mehmándár, I could not act with such indecorum." However, he actually had a wife of his own, at every town of note between Bagdad and Tabríz. This man's name is ISHMAEL; he has often served English travellers, and has always given infinite satisfaction. At the time I am now writing, I have not disguised myself, but am in the costume of my own country; the consequence is, I find travelling here more expensive than in Persia. Nevertheless, I would advise all travellers who care not for the expence, and have plenty of spare time, to pass hence in their own dress; for their persons are respected, and in security: whereas, by adopting a foreign garb (although better opportunities are afforded of observing the people and country), a traveller might be murdered for the value of a decent pair of shulwárs (breeches). My own life was attempted more than once at the time I have just referred to, but, now I feel as secure as if I were passing through Regent Street. Amongst those tribes whose morals have been vitiated by habits of rapine, it is unsafe to trust to the strongest professions. For there can be no doubt that cruelty and avarice characterize this people, though they by no means hoard their money; always preferring to convert it into horses, mares, lances, pistols, swords, and ornaments for their women. Cash is not very current amongst them, purchases being made by barter. In all my travels I never could procure change for a sum equivalent to a rupee. The females are not shut up in this or any other Kúrdish town; nor are they veiled, like those of most Muhammedan countries. On entering the house of a Kúrd, you are not annoyed by women rushing in every direction to escape notice. During my stay amongst them, I constantly met women in company with men, without veils. It is true they are not permitted to other respect they are entirely free. extended, they were not possessed of those personal charms which might impose the necessity of restraint, though a few of them, if eat with the men, but in every As far as my own observation dressed up in the Parisian fashion, would be considered pretty brunettes; their complexions were not so dark as to veil their blushes. They were generally small and well made, and had large dark eyes, the appearances of which they take great pains to show off to the best advantage. They dye their eye-brows with a collyrium called in the Arabic "khattat." It is reduced to a fine powder. The eye-lids are painted with the kahel,” and the lashes blackened with a reed, which is passed between the eye-lids. The angles of the eye are also tinged and prolonged, which makes it appear much larger. The ancient Egyptian ladies, as well as the modern Persian, are represented as having resorted to the same arts of the toilette. Juvenal admirably satirises the Roman ladies for this coquetry. "" "Illa supercilium, madida fuligine tartum, Obliqua producit acu, pingitque trementes The soles of the feet Another fashion equally essential to Kurdish beauty, requires that the nails of the hands and feet should be stained with henna; and so very general is this custom, that any woman who should hesitate to conform to it would be considered immodest. are likewise daubed with the same coloring. times partially painted; and to prevent the henna taking every where, the fair artists twist tape round them before they apply it, so that when the operation is completed, their fingers are fancifully marked with orange-colored stripes, which is by no means improving to a fine hand. In fact, the delicate whiteness of the palm, and the rose color of the nail, is utterly effaced by this dye. In a large town like Sulimániah, it is not to be supposed that the women enjoy the same degree of liberty as they do in villages; indeed, they are often much watched; and in the marriage contract, it is insisted that the bride shall exhibit those proofs of her innocence, which afterwards she is expected to confirm by her conduct. In fact, a bride would be returned to her parents, should she be unable to produce the testimonials of her virginity. I have certainly seen them very familiarly inclined, but I was told they are not backward in assuming the semblance of enticement, that the incautious stranger may proceed to improper liberties, upon which these artful females accuse the unhappy guest of freedom and insult; when their male relations seize upon his baggage, and otherwise molest him. In their mode of life, the Kúrds are habitually abstemious, subsisting on the coarsest rye-bread and manna; and when meat is introduced at their meals, it has seldom undergone any further culinary preparation than that of boiling in plain water. Some travellers have spoken of their personal cleanliness, but on this point I certainly cannot agree with them. In regard to cleanliness, none of the Asiatics can be compared to ourselves. Their repeated ablutions very imperfectly remove the evils attendant on the length of time they wear their clothes. I speak from an intimate acquaintance with the practices of Muhammedans in general. Circumcision is supposed to contribute to cleanliness, and is not confined to our sex alone, as the girls of many tribes undergo an operation somewhat similar just before they reach the age of ten. I am ignorant of the manner in which it is done, as the natives are not very communicative on such subjects; but there are women who live by the performance of it. The barbers operate on the males, and are esteemed unclean from the profession they exercise. The Kúrds have a practice of removing all the hair from the parts of the body, where we suffer it to remain; and where we carefully shave, they as carefully cherish its growth. The women also practise depilation in the following way: A thin cord is dipped into some particular gum, and drawn slowly over the parts, when it removes all that adheres to it. This process is extremely painful; but the remedy does not require a frequent recurrence, as it either produces a complete eradication, or if a new growth appears, it is merely a soft down, which may be removed with facility. Another remarkable contrast between European and Asiatic taste is, that corpulence and bulkiness form the greatest trait of beauty. It is natural enough, therefore, that the females are desirous of acquiring a superiority in this particular. They accordingly eat a great variety of sweetmeats, candied fruit, and particular vegetable substances, grated down, and mixed with conserves. This latter composition is thought to be adapted both for vigour, and that en bon point, which is so delightful to their admirers. A Kúrd of some rank, in describing the charms of his intended bride, said to me with much seriousness-"She is as large as an elephant !"-He considered this comparison the very acme of perfection. |