NOWLEDGE IT' Magazine. 12TH, 1840. SOUTH AFRICAN SKETCHES. III. PRICE ONE PENNY. THE KORAHS. Fast by his wild resounding river AMONG the various tribes of the Hottentot race the Korahs who inhabit the banks of the Orange River, have attained the highest degree of civilization. They are a peaceable and friendly people; their mode of life is pastoral, and the places of their abode unsettled. The name by which they designate their nation is Kora, or Koraqua. The affix qua means man or men, and may be omitted in most of the Hottentot dialects. The word Koraqua signifies a man wearing shoes, as distinguished from the sandals which are in general use among the other tribes. The Korahs are found widely dispersed over the country on the northern side of the Gariep: but it is not easy to define the boundaries of the country inhabited by these wandering tribes, because they are VOL. XVII. constantly shifting their quarters; and the villages of two or three tribes are often so intermingled that it is not easy to decide to which of them the territory belongs. But, with respect to landed property, they have none of the ideas which a European attaches to the term. They never consider the soil as properly worth claiming or disputing about. The water and the pasturage is all they esteem, and when these are exhausted, the soil is abandoned as useless. Whenever they find a spring unoccupied, there they plant their curious circular huts, and when they are tired with the locality, others come and occupy their abandoned spot. At the time when the Dutch had possession of the colony, the various native tribes suffered much cruel oppression from their civilized rulers. The Korahs, however, were protected to a considerable extent, by the wide desert Karro, situated between them and the colony. Thus comparatively free from oppression, we need not be surprised to find the Korahs more civilized than the general race of Hottentots: they display none of those filthy and squalid appearances which characterize some of the tribes on the skirts of the colony. In their persons thev are more cleanly, owing pro 526 98 bably to the abundance of water with which the | Orange River is at all seasons, and more especially in summer, supplied, and which in almost every other part of the southern angle of Africa is a scarce article. Their dress and domestic utensils are neater and constructed with more care. Their dwellings, which are formed with great skill, are in the shape of hemispheres, generally about six feet high and eight in diameter, and are covered with several folds of neat matting, made of rushes, or coarse grass. Their vessels for containing water, milk, &c., are sometimes made of clay, baked in the sun, sometimes of gourds, and also of wood hollowed out from blocks of willow. They do not appear to have any knowledge of agriculture, but their possessions of horned cattle, sheep, goats, and dogs, are sometimes considerable. They have no kind of carriages, but on their removal from place to place, their mats, their household furniture, and utensils, are packed on oxen, (as represented in our frontispiece,) which in addition usually carry the women and children. The Korahs subsist to a great extent on curdled milk, and on berries and roots: they are particularly attentive to their cattle, which they train in habits of strict subordination and command. When a cow is supposed to withhold her milk, they adopt a plan, which, according to Herodotus, was practised by the ancient Scythians: this method is too offensive to describe. Their dress consists of skin cloaks, similar to those of the other Hottentot tribes: the Korah women de scribed by Barrow, wore square ornamented aprons, suspended from the waist, with copper chains and beads of glass round the neck, the wrists, and legs. These chains he supposes to have been procured from the Damaras, a nation of Kaffers to the north-westward, dwelling at the foot of the Copper Mountains. "This metal, indeed, is said to be found in many places near the banks of the Orange River, and the party picked up what appeared to be a specimen of native gold; but mines are of little value in a country where there are no materials necessary for working them, no navigable rivers, nor passable roads, by which their produce can at any reasonable expense be transported to a market. Those who set any value on this part of Southern Africa for the mines it contains, know very little of the nature of the country." These remarks were made by Barrow, about forty years ago, during nearly the whole of which time the colony of the Cape of Good Hope has remained in the possession of the English, whose benevolence and enterprise in extending civilization, are perhaps as remarkable as the vast extent of land which they possess in almost every portion of the globe. For further information respecting the costume of the Korahs, we select the following amusing sketch from Mr. Burchell's valuable work on South Africa. Four Korahs paid me a visit, and I purchased of them a fresh ostrich egg, for a small piece of tobacco. They belonged to a neighbouring kraal, of which one of them was the chief. Of this man I drew the portrait. After making the bargain to give him a large piece of tobacco, he stood patiently and still, till I had finished my drawing; which, however, being done only with a black lead pencil, excited little wonder or admiration compared to that which he and his companions expressed at my drawing of the Yellow-fish. *The incident mentioned in the text is so amusing and characteristic, that we quote it in the words of Mr. Burchell." Since our arrival at this station, a party of Korahs, attracted by our provisions, had taken up their abode with us. This morning, one of them struck a Geelvisch (Yellow-fish); and I borrowed it of him to finish the As soon as this was colouring of a drawing made at the Sack river. done, I called him to the wagon to take his fish again; when, catching a sight of the drawing, he was in an instant struck with a nost laughable degree of astonishment, and for a minute stood literally dumb with wonder; gazing at it with mouth and eyes wide open. At st, without taking off his eyes from the object, he called aloud to It is by the imitation of the lively colours of nature, far more than by exactness of forms, that drawings afford delight to the far greater number of those who view them; correctness and fidelity of outline being more seldom duly appreciated, although the more valuable part of the art. This Korah wore on his head a piece of leather, bound round in the form of a cap, and in the manner of a turban; and was clothed with a leathern cloak, or kaross, which, together with his whole body, were so covered with red ochre and grease, that the part of the wagon against which he leaned to have his portrait taken, was painted, or rather soiled, with a red stain, not casily extracted. From his neck hung a number of bead necklaces of various colours, to which were appended a Bichuana knife, and the shell of a small tortoise to hold snuff or tobacco. His wrist and fore arm were ornamented with bracelets of beads, cords of acacia bark, and a broad ivory ring. Although perfectly friendly in all their intentions, these men were each armed with a hassagay and kirri, and some with a bow. The countenance and manners of this chief were expressive of a goodnatured quiet disposition: his behaviour was even respectful, and less troublesome in the way of begging, than that of the generality of his countrymen. In crossing the Orange River, which is both wide and rapid, the Korahs adopt a curious contrivance to get over their sheep and other property. They take a log of wood, from six to eight feet in length, and at the distance of a few inches from one of its ends, fix a wooden peg. On this log the person intending to cross the river stretches himself at full length, and holding fast by the peg with one hand, while with the other, and occasionally with his feet, he strikes to keep the end of the log in a certain direction, (which is that of an angle of about forty-five degrees with the stream,) the obliquity of the log opposed to the current causes it, in floating down the stream, to push gradually over to the opposite side. One of the most ancient as well as favourite recre ations of the Hottentots is found in the Gorrah or Gorah, a musical instrument, which in form and appearance resembles a violin bow, but in its nature and use, it is quite different, being in fact a combination of a stringed and a wind instrument. It consists of a slender stick, or bow, on which a catgut string is stretched. To the lower end of this string is attached a flat piece of the quill of an ostrich, in such a manner as to form part of the length of the string. This quill being applied to the lips, is made to vibrate, by strongly inhaling and exhaling the air. The resulting tones are described as being powerful, but from the small "compass" of the instrument, the tunes appear unmeaning and monotonous to civilized ears. When a Korah dies and leaves no children behind him it is the custom for his brother to take whatever property he may have left, while the widow is entitled only to that share of it which has been gained by her own labour and management. A case is mentioned his companions to come and see. The astonishment now became general; a crowd gathered round, and their various modes of expressing surprise, were highly entertaining. None having ever imagined the possibility that objects could be so imitated by art as to exhibit the colour and appearance of life, they seemed to believe that it had been done by magic; while others supposing it to be the fish itself, fastened upon the paper, inquired where was the wound where it had been struck. Nothing could be more amusing than the curious looks of incredulity and amazement exhibited in their countenances, when they beheld the back of the drawing, and felt the thinness of what they had thought to be a solid fish. There was but one way in which the mystery could be cleared up to them: and but one mode of explanation which could be rendered at all comprehensive to their simple m.nds: I showed them the colours and pencils; and in their presence laid some of the same tint on a piece of paper. After this they all retired, satisfied and greatly pleased; and continued for a long while talking with each other on the wonder they had just seen; and possibly in such a manner, the acquisition of ideas perfectly new, might excite in them, for the time at least, an increased activity in the faculty of consideration and reflection." by Burchell in which a Bushwoman, wife of a Korana, had by collecting a quantity of certain roots or leaves, used for chewing as a substitute for tobacco, acquired about a dozen sheep; which on the death of her husband were unjustly taken possession of by his brother. The woman, remonstrating in vain, and unable to obtain justice, collected together her Bushman friends; who, exasperated at the unfair treatment she had received, were resolved to seek justice with the aid of the bow and the hassagay. The Korah took exactly the same steps to defend himself, and to retain what he had unlawfully seized. "For among them, as among civilized and polished nations," says Mr. Burchell, "he who is in the wrong will always find some false argument to prove that he is in the right." The plan by which this "trial by battle" is generally decided, consists in plundering each other of their cattle, and sometimes with a more sanguinary intention, in lying in ambush for their adversaries, whom they seldom fail to shoot if they come within reach; but being well aware of each other's mode of warfare, their cunning and caution generally save them. When one party has proved itself to be the strongest the affair is settled, and they continue to live as before without molesting each other. VANITY OF INTELLECT. MAN'S intellect has indeed great power over all outward things. This we are not disposed to question. In these days more especially we all take far too much pride in it, and make presumptuous boast of it, nay, are apt to fall down and worship it, as the one great miracle worker, the true mover of mountains. But powerful as it may be, omnipotent as we may deem it to be, over the world around us, over the outward fields of nature, there is one region where our hearts and consciences tell us, sometimes in halfmuttered whispers, sometimes in cries of anguish and agony, that it is almost powerless: and that region is the dim, visionary, passion-haunted one within our own breasts. We all know but too well,-every one whose life has not flowed away in listless inanity,every one who has ever struggled against the evil within him, must have felt but too deeply, that our intellectual convictions, clear and strong as they may have been, have never of themselves been able to shake the foundations of a single sin, to subdue a single vice, to root out a single evil habit. Ever since that severing of the heart from the intellect, which took place when man gave himself up to the lust of godless knowledge, the Passions have made mock at the Understanding, whenever it has attempted to control them, and have only flattered and pampered it, when it was content to wear their livery, and to drudge in their service; while the Will has lifted up its head against the Understanding in haughty defiance and scorn. Moreover this lesson, which we learn from our own grievous experience, is confirmed by all the evidence of history; where, in example after example, we see, how vain and impotent the enlightening of the understanding has been to elevate and purify man's moral being; and how, unless that enlightenment has been working together with other healthier powers, and been kept in check by them, its operation on the character of nations has rather been to weaken and dissipate their energies, to crumble the primitive rock into sand.-HARE. THE Christian religion, though pensive and serious, is not sad. It produces tranquillity, confidence, and joy. It is indeed only a departure from just and true views of religion that is followed by a vague sadness, gloom, and despondency. III. PLYMOUTH AND DEVONPORT. WE proceed with our description of the chief objects of interest at Plymouth and Devonport. The citadel of Plymouth, which, next to Drake's Island, is the most important of the defences of the place, is situated at the eastern extremity of the Hoe, at the point where Sutton Pool branches out of the Catwater. It was built on the site of an old fort, by command of Charles the Second, about the year 1670. It is built principally of limestone and granite, and consists of three regular and two irregular bastions, the curtains of the regular bastions being strengthened by two ravelins and horn-works. The north, west, and east sides are bounded by a deep ditch, counterscarp, and covered way, pallisadoed: the south side, which faces the sea, is defended by a lower fort, built upon the rocks on the sea-shore: this fort and the upper parapets are surmounted by cannon. Two gateways, with drawbridges, form the entrance from the town: the second gateway, which opens immediately into the citadel, displays a sculpture of the royal arms, and other devices. In the interior is a spacious esplanade, around which are built the officers' houses, the chapel, the magazine, the hospital, and the barracks. In the centre is a bronze statue of George the Second, in the costume of a Roman warrior, on a pedestal bearing a Latin inscription. The ramparts are nearly three quarters of a mile in circumference, and constitute a very favourite promenade. On the opposite side of the entrance to Sutton Pool is a series of dilapidated fortifications, called Queen Anne's battery: this battery was once serviceable as a defence of the harbour, though it is no longer used for that purpose. The Custom-house is an elegant building, standing on the Parade, or Coal-quay. The front is built of granite, with a colonnade of five arches, supported by floor are the offices of the principal surveyor, tide. rusticated piers of the same material. On the groundsurveyor, landing-waiter, searcher, &c. A granite staircase leads to the long-room, a spacious apart ment for the dispatch of public business, adjoining to which are the comptroller's and collector's offices. The whole building presents a handsome appearance. There is a government establishment at Bovisand, on the eastern bank of Plymouth Sound, for supplying ships with their cargo of water. A noble reservoir, capable of containing nearly twelve thousand tuns of water, is constructed in a narrow valley, into which flow several fine streams collected from the neighbouring hills. The water is conducted in iron pipes from the reservoir to a pier built at Staddon Point, where every facility is afforded for the approach and shelter of boats in stormy weather. The object of this reservoir is to afford to ships lying in the Sound a more speedy supply of water than they could otherwise obtain. The entrance to the Catwater is bounded on one side by the citadel, of which we have already spoken, and on the other by a long, narrow peninsula, called Mount Batten. On the most elevated point of this peninsula is an ancient circular fort, built during the reign of King Charles the First, to aid in the defence of Plymouth Sound and the Catwater. It is in tolerably good preservation, and has of late years been appropriated by the harbour-master to the purpose of a look-out house. Not far from this spot is a small town called Oreston, whence the immense supply of stone was obtained for the construction of the Breakwater. Large beds of limestone rock line the Catwater, and these have been quarried to a great extent. The rock will receive a very fine polish, and being beautifully veined, is frequently used for chim ney-pieces, tables, vases, and other ornamental purposes. While the quarrying was proceeding, in the year 1812, a nodule of clay was discovered at a depth of about sixty feet from the summit of the rock, and twenty-five from the margin of the sea. This nodule was about twenty-five feet long, and twelve feet square; and on opening it there were found within several bones of the rhinoceros, in a more perfect state, and containing less animal matter than usual in bones dug out of rocks. The proprietors of shipping, which anchored in the Catwater, were at one time apprehensive that by continuing to quarry at Oreston, the Catwater would be deprived of a natural barrier which the limestone hill afforded, from the gales frequently blowing from the south; and petitions were presented to the Admiralty, praying them to cease quarrying at Oreston. We believe that when the Breakwater was completed, the necessity for working these quarries was at an end. The solitary rock at the eastern margin of the entrance to the Sound, called the Mewstone, is not a fortification: indeed it is merely a rocky abode for rabbits and gulls. We must now describe the Hamoaze rather more at length than we have yet done. The reader will bear in mind that it stands north-westward of Ply. mouth Sound; the entrance to it being by Cremil or Crimble Passage: this passage is bounded on the one side by Mount Edgecumbe, and on the other by a long narrow tongue of land called Devil's Point. Having entered this narrow passage, we find ourselves in the Hamoaze, one of the noblest harbours in Europe, perhaps in the world. This is, in fact, a part of the river Tamar, and extends about four miles, from Mount Edgecumbe to Saltash. The deepest part of this harbour is at high water about twenty fathoms, and at low water about fifteen fathoms in depth. This large sheet of water is a receptacle for those ships of war which are not required for active service, and which are laid up in ordinary, moored to strong chains which stretch across the harbour. These vessels are stripped of their yards, top-masts, and rigging; the hulls are painted yellow; and wooden roofs are erected over them to protect them from the weather. All these vessels are under the superintendence of the Commissioner of the Dockyard. There is a first-rate ship, called the flag-ship, in the harbour: and any orders or communications from the Admiralty regarding the ships in the harbour, are made first to the commissioner, from him to the captain of the flag-ship, and from him to the captains or officers of the other vessels. There is always a naval commander-in-chief, called a port-admiral, to superintend the whole, but he usually resides on shore, in a government-house. From its sheltered situation, there is no harbour in the kingdom more secure than the Hamoaze; and the number of large ships always lying there forms a striking sight. We glide Through lines of stately ships; and as we pass. CARRINGTON. We must now briefly notice the chief objects in Devonport of a private or commercial nature. It is a well-built town, about twice as long, from north to south, as the width, from east to west. The streets are well paved with variegated marble, and well lighted with gas. There are three entrances to the town on the land side, one from Stoke, one from Stonehouse, and one from Morice Town. When the town had obtained permission from the king to appropriate the name of Devonport, a column was erected to celebrate the event. This column was erected by subscription, at an expense of about three~ thousand pounds. It stands on a solid rock, twentytwo feet above the level of the pavement. The rock is ascended by a handsome flight of steps, enclosed by parapets of wrought marble, and communicating with an arched gateway opening upon a terrace which surrounds the column. On the rock is a plinth nineteen feet high: above this is another, nine feet high, with panels for inscriptions: on the upper plinth rests the shaft of the column, fluted, and of the Doric order: this is surmounted by a balcony, and a pedestal to support a figure of George the Fourth. A spiral staircase winds round the interior of the column, and leads to the gallery, from whence a splendid view is obtained of the hills, vales, and wooded scenery, stretching from Hengeston Down on the north to the ocean on the south, and from Dartmoor on the east to the Cornish hills on the west. From Near the column is the town-hall, a building designed from the Parthenon at Athens, and erected about twenty years ago. There is a portico in front, with four Doric columns, twenty-seven feet and a half in height, and five and a half in diameter. the portico a flight of steps leads to the hall, a noble apartment, seventy-five feet long, forty wide, and thirty-one high. It is provided with benches, which can be removed as occasion requires; so that the hall can be appropriated to any public meeting. There are smaller apartments for official and parochial business; and also cells in the lower part of the building for prisoners. Almost contiguous to the town-hall is a building of Egyptian architecture, intended originally for a mathematical school, but now used as a public library. It is said that Denon, who is celebrated for his intimate acquaintance with Egyptian architecture, said that he considered this the best attempt to appropriate Egyptian architecture to domestic purposes that had ever come under his notice. The stock of books is not large, but they are of a sterling and valuable character. The building cost about fifteen hundred pounds. The three erections of which we have spoken are situated almost close together, on an ascent forming the extremity of a street fronting the principal entrance to the town from Plymouth, and collectively form an attractive and imposing collection of buildings. But these are not all. Between the column and the library is a chapel, of which Mr. Rowe thus speaks: - It is designed by Mr. Foulston, after the Hindoo style, with the ornaments and accompaniments appropriate to that fantastic manner, but of massive and bold proportions. These are so judiciously arranged, that the whole front presents a highly effective and pleasing appearance; and the building, though placed in juxta-position with the fine portico of the town-hall, maintains its rank. and seems to suffer nothing from a contrast which would be destructive to many buildings, in which bold and picturesque effect had been less the objects of the architect's attention. There are several places of public worship in Devonport, but they do not call for particular description here. The town is no way deficient in those charitable and benevolent institutions which form so striking a feature in many of our English cities and towns. The Devonport and Stonehouse public dispensary is situated in Chapel Street. There are likewise public schools for poor boys and girls, a Female Benevolent Society, the Dorcas Society, &c. Of buildings devoted to other purposes, there are a Savings' Bank, a Scientific Institution, a Classical and Mathematical Public School, &c. The market at Devonport is abundantly supplied with the necessaries and luxuries of life, the produce of the surrounding country. Fish is always to be had in great plenty, and at low prices, and the market is considered to be one of the best in the kingdom, both for the excellence of the supply, and the lowness of the prices. The peculiar connexion existing between the town of Devonport and the government has given rise to a mode of local government differing from that existing in most towns. The town is under the jurisdiction of commissioners, among whom are the lord of the manor, who holds courts leet and baron at Michaelmas-the stewards of the manor, the rector of the parish, the commissioner of her majesty's dockyard, the naval commander-in-chief, the mayor, aldermen, and recorder of the boroughs of Plymouth and Saltash-the manorial lords of East Stonehouse, and of East and West Anthony-and the stewards of these last named manors. These commissioners have the superintendence of all the affairs of the poor, the lighting, watching, and cleansing of the town, and the granting of licenses to porters, watchmen, &c. Between Devonport and Plymouth is an open spot, called Mount Wise, which has been termed the Champ-de-Mars" of the place. It is an elevated fortified spot, with a parade, consisting of a level expanse of gravel, skirted by patches of green sward. Government-house, and the residence of the portadmiral, are built on this hill, and whenever a review takes place this hill is the chief scene of it. is a little island, situated in the middle of Plymouth Sound, called Drake's Island, or sometimes St. Nicholas's Island. In the time of Henry the Eighth the only building on this island was a small chapel. In the following reign a royal letter was sent to the mayor and corporation of Plymouth, ordering them to fortify this chapel, in order to assist in repelling foreign attacks. This appears to have been acted on. During the civil war, the island was generally in the hands of the parliamentary party, and had many additions made to its fortifications. Since then the defences have been greatly strengthened and increased. The island is about three furlongs in length, and is connected with the south-western shore by a ridge of rocks, which are uncovered at low water, and constitute what is called the bridge. The depth of water, even at the highest tides, is not sufficient to admit any vessel except of very small burden; so that larger vessels are obliged to make a circuit of two additional miles, in order to go round the other side of the island. Among other arrangements for defence, the island contains furnaces for heating balls red-hot. Immediately opposite Drake's Island is the Hoe, a fine open spot, from whence an extensive view may be obtained. It occupies the whole line of Plymouth Sound, facing the south, and is an open eminence devoid of trees or shrubs, but covered with a grassy sward, in the centre of which is a wide gravelled path, forming a favourite promenade for the inhabitants of the two towns. Its height being equal to that of any ground in the immediate neighbourhood, it commands an extensive view over Plymouth, Devonport, Stonehouse, and Stoke. One more article, which will complete the subject, will enable us to describe the principal features of Plymouth as a trading and corporate town. 5 A 118 & tenw of a most dibiw odt es da TOWN HALL AND LIBRARY, DEVONPORT. |