over the hand, which I have sent you, is the most novel that has lately appeared. There is no want of variety in half-dress trimmings, though I cannot say there is any great novelty, with the exception, however, of the various new garnitures in passementerie, and a novel kind of embroidery, employed for silk and cashmere robes; it is an intermixture of silk and chenille, in wreaths of flowers, or detached sprigs. The other garnitures in vogue are flounces, ruches, velvet lace, and black lace. Caps are very much in vogue for social dinner parties; some that have just been introduced are composed of dentelle de soie, a round form trimmed with lace plaited à la vielle, parted by two rows of narrow green velvet; the caul is encircled by a second plaiting of the same kind, with a knot and long ends at the back, also of green velvet, but much broader than that which parts the lace. the foundation, which is very small, may be composed either of velvet or of gauze, embroidered in gold or silver; it is ornamented with small torsades, either flat or round, descending in three or four rows on each cheek, rounding towards the back of the head in the style of the bands, à la Berthe. The others are entirely composed of green, blue, or crimson silk. The coiffure à la Cleopatre is also new: it has a very small foundation of either velvet or fancy silk net, traversed by two lace lappets of moderate length; the ends are square, and fall on each side; the lappets are retained on the foundation by bandelettes of gold, pearls, or velvet wreathed with pearls or spotted with gold. The vogue of wreaths of flowers for head-dresses of hair is expected to be very great: I have never seen them so beautiful, nor in such profusion. I may say the same of the plumes in which our artistes have this year surpassed themselves. I have no change in fashionable colours to announce to you. ADRIENNE DE M PLATE THE FIRST. The enormous width of the skirts of robes is now decidedly diminished; the skirts of promenade robes are a little shorter, but those for demi toilette and evening dress have rather increased than diminished in length. Corsages are made lower DESCRIPTION OF THE PLATES. than last month in evening dress; those of silk or velvet are always tight to the shape: the majority are deeply pointed at bottom, and either round or square at top. A few, but very few, are partially open in the centre of the breast; the majority are trimmed with lace; even those made with a lappel have the lower edge of the lappel bordered with lace. Berthes are still fashionable, but they are not so numerous as lace disposed in three or four falls, or in pelerine-fichus. Short sleeves are shorter, but a garniture of bouillonné, or lace, adds to their length. In many instances, where lace is employed for the corsages of dresses, there is no trimming at the bottom; but if there is one, it should either be a deep flounce of the material of the dress, or else one or two lace flounces. I should observe that velvet and satin robes are never flounced with the same material. Several shot silk robes are trimmed with tulle ruches of the two colours of the silk, on the corsage and sleeves. The garniture of the skirt is either composed of plain satin, or of the material of the dress; in either case it is fancifully intermingled with tulle ruches. Lace arranged down the sides of a robe, in the tablier form, with a broad lace flounce at the bottom, that is, at the bottom of the tablier only, will be very fashionable, and has an elegant effect. CARRIAGE DRESS.-Robe of Pekin satiné, an aventurine ground with narrow black stripes; the cosrage a three-quarter height at the back, and open on the bosom, displays the lace of the chemisette standing up: manche à la Henri III. over a long muslin sleeve made tight, and finished with a deep lace ruffle. The cloak is a manteau d'Aumale, of deep blue velvet, lined with white satin, and trimmed with black lace; it is somewhat shorter than usual, and made loose, with a pelerine écharpe, which forms a substitute for sleeves. Pink satin capote, a close shape; the exterior of the brim trimmed with a cluster of folds; a garniture of white lace, with coques of pink ribbon in the centre, is disposed on one side, partly on the brim and partly on the crown; a white plume zéphyrissuing from this trimming, falls low on the other side: a knot and brides of pink satin ribbon complete the trimming. PUBLIC PROMENADE DRESS.-Claret coloured satin robe, corsage en amazone, and sleeve a three-quarter length over one of muslin bouillonée. Two rows of chenille fringe, very broad, and with a rich heading, trim the skirt. Mantle of black satin broché; it is the usual length, drawn in to the This month is particularly rich in evening waist behind, loose before, and closed down the coiffures of every kind. Caps of tulle, blonde, centre. Pelerine of moderate depth, very open and thread lace; small, round shapes, with the on the bosom, with a collar and border of velvet, cauls a little raised, trimmed with flowers, inter-long loose sleeves and velvet cuffs; the front is mixed with gauze or narrow velvet ribbon. Small wreaths of flowers, imitated in peacock's feathers with hearts of coloured gems, have just appeared for dress caps. Velvet demi-turbans and petits bords, the first either trimmed with a lace scarf, the ends descending on each side, or else with gold or silver cords and tassels, and one or two white ostrich feathers, spotted or shaded in the colour of the velvet. The coiffure Memphis may be made in the most costly or simple materials, according to the taste of the wearer. In the first, trimmed with velvet, in the form of a broken cone. Dark green velvet chapeau, a moderately open shape; the interior trimmed with coques of shaded rose ribbon, the edge with a wreath composed of emerald green satin ribbon; the exterior with ribbon of the same shade, and two long and very full emerald green ostrich plumes. HALF-LENGTH FIGURES. No. 3. MORNING DRESS.-Drab-coloured levantine robe; the corsage made quite high, and tight to the shape, is trimmed with two velvet bands encircling the back, and descending in the lappel style on each side to the bottom of the waist; they are placed at some distance from each other, aud form the shape in a very graceful manner; the centre is decorated with brandebourgs. A similar garniture is arranged en tablier on the front of the skirt. Long tight sleeve, ending in a point falling over the hand; it is lined and bordered with velvet; close mancheron, forming a rounded point, trimmed with velvet. Claretcoloured velvet chapeau; it is a very dark shade, a deep round brim, and crown somewhat higher than usual; a fancy trimming encircles the brim; satin rouleaus encircle the crown, and têtes de plumes intermingled with coques and ends of satin ribbon, form a wreath round it. No. 4. MORNING DRESS.-Robe of one of the new quadrilled Pekins; the corsage made quite up to the throat, and close, descends in a point, and is trimmed in the centre with a caur of the same material, bordered with passementerie; a small falling collar is similarly edged. Tight sleeve, rather more than a three-quarter length, over a muslin one, terminated by a bouillonnée, and finished by a lace ruffle; the bottom of the sleeve is edged with passementerie. Round mancheron, trimmed with a ruche. A single very deep flounce, headed by a bouillonće, decorates the skirt. Lemon-coloured satin chapeau lined with white; the interior and exterior trimmed with flowers. No 5. EVENING DRESS.-Lavender bloom satin robe; a low corsage, pointed at bottom, round at top, and trimmed with a fall of lace headed by a drapery, with a satin chou in the centre. Short tight sleeve and lace ruffle, also ornamented with a chou. The skirt is decorated with a fall of lace put far back on each side, and choux placed close to it at regular distances. The head-dress, arranged in the cap style, is composed of lavender bloom velvet, put far back upon the head, and decorated with folds of spotted tulle and white chenille fringe. SECOND PLATE. DEMI-TOILETTE.-Shot silk robe, a low corsage, pointed at bottom, round at top, and trimmed with a lappel open in the centre, and scalloped round; long tight sleeve; the skirt is trimmed with two very deep flounces, also scalloped, each headed by a light chain of passementerie. Ceinture of ribbon to correspond, twisted round the waist, and descending in long ends nearly to the bottom of the skirt. Chemisette made up to the throat, and composed of alternate bands of cambric set in full, and embroidered entre deur. Green satin capote, a drawn shape; the brim moderately open, has the interior trimmed with half blown dahlias; the exterior with a full blown flower and foliage laid upon a lace lappet. PUBLIC PROMENADE DRESS.-Blue satin robe; the corsage made quite up to the throat, is trimmed round the back and down the sides with four bands of black velvet ribbon; they descend to the waist, where they are met on each side by the same number of bands going down the sides and round the back of the skirt, in the tunic style; long sleeve of equal width from top to bottom; deep turned up cuff, and mancheron of the shell form, both trimmed with velvet. Lace collar and ruffles. Chapeau of golden brown velvet; an oval brim, descending low at the sides; the interior trimmed with coques of yellow ribbon; the exterior with ribbon, and a long and very full willow plume, both to correspond with the chapeau. HALF-LENGTH FIGURES. No. 3. WALKING DRESS FOR A YOUNG LADY. Lavender levantine frock, a double skirt, the lower one long, and trimmed above the hem with an embroidery in black soutache; the upper skirt is much shorter, open before to the waist, and made with robings embroidered in soutache; the corsage quite high, tight at the top and full at the bottom, is trimmed in the pelisse style, with a small pelerine, which forms a revers in front, and is embroidered en suite; a cord and tassels encircle the waist. Turkish sleeves over full ones of muslin, trimmed, as is also the top of the corsage, with Valenciennes edging. White satin drawn bonnet ; a long and close brim; the exterior trimmed with a wreath formed of the beards of white feathers. No. 4. MORNING DRESS.-Robe of white tissu de Cachemire; corsage en canezou, made quite high behind, but opening en V on the bosom. Manche à la Louis XIV., over one of muslin bouillonné. Cleft mancheron. Ceinture of broad plaided ribbon descending in long ends. Bonnet à la Duchesse of Brussels net; the front is arranged somewhat in the diadem form; the net, which is edged with Valenciennes lace, descends in full ends at the sides; they are retained by clusters of small coques of ribbon. No. 5 presents a back view of No. 3. TO CORRESPONDENTS. ACCEPTED, with thanks-K. E. L.; Marion. DECLINED, with many thanks-Elise; Cornelius; "On the death of a relation;" "On a dead sunflower;" "Lines to a bouquet of faded flowers," and other poems by the same author. EMERALD'S article displays talent, but is nevertheless unsuitable. If she will favour the Editress with an address, she will be happy to return the paper, and give more particular reasons for its rejection. If SELINA CAROLINE E. B. will give the Editress her address, she will be happy to communicate privately with her. Several papers are under consideration. END OF VOL. XXI. Printed by Joseph Rogerson, 24, Norfolk Street, Strand, London. |