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execute, and disgraceful to the intellects he so
amply possesses.
AN obliging house-keeper in the village of
Plassee, accommodated me this evening more
agreeably than I could have expected. His little
tenement was composed of materials that had re-
sisted the late conflagration of the country, and
he had, with his family, resumed the quiet posses-
sion of it. Seeing me oppressed and languid, from
the effects of a fever, which had seized me on
the road, he procured me a bed, and gave me
every nourishment which his house afforded.
On the 11th, at the village of Buddoo— ten
cosses; the residence of a petty chief, tributary
to Jumbo. This day an annual fair was held at
an adjacent hamlet, which being near our road,
we mixed with the numerous spectators of the
festival. The good humour and mirth accom-
panying this meeting, exhibited a strong con-
trast to the scene of yesterday, and described,
in lively colours, the various bounties which
flow from peace. Among the diversions of the

day, I observed the wheel with boxes suspended

from its rim, of common use in the southern parts of India, for whirling round those who are disposed to make such aerial circuits. More than once have I taken my seat in one of those whirligigs, and can assure you, that the enter

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tainment, though not of a sober kind, has its pleasures; and, what is more than you can say of many a pleasure, it sets you down where it took you up. My servant did not arrive this evening, and from having hitherto wholly relied on his services, I sustained a great inconveniency. But a Kashmirian family at Buddo, on the score of an acquaintance with my companion, in a certain degree relieved it, by giving us a friendly reception, and a slender supper. ON the 12th at Mancote—eight cosses. A chief depending on Jumbo resided at this village, which stands on an eminence partially skirted by a small river. Here my troubles branched out anew, and though not deserving a rank in the list of misfortunes, involved me in various difficulties. My Kashmirian associate having by mistake proceeded beyond our place of rendezvous, there was no one to prepare my victuals, or to take care of the horse. Though the Hindoos hold in abomination the performance of any menial office for strangers, yet the shop-keeper at Mancote, from whom I had purchased the necessaries of the day, afforded me great assistance. He gave me house-room, a bed, and also some of his household utensils, for holding the horse's corn, and my own provision. From an association with those who had obviated my various wants, and had even VOL. I. T


rendered the journey a pleasant one, I was at once deprived of all help. In the first place, I cleaned and fed my horse, nor did he deserve less at my hands; for he was a good-tempered, sure-footed, active animal. Had he not indeed been thus qualified, he could not have supported such fatigue, or have clambered over the steep and rocky mountains that had hitherto stood in his way. After this care, it was necessary to remedy the state of my own wants, which became urgent and clamorous, for I had not eaten any thing that day. BEING told that a mendicant Seid" of eminent sanctity resided in the upper part of the town, I presented myself to him, told my story, and earnestly intreated his aid. I had imagined that the man who lived on public benevolence, whose welfare in the world was promoted by a common exercise of humanity, would have cheerfully cone forward to my succeur, especially as the request had no tendency to touch his property. But I reckoned without my host. Never did mitred priest in all the plenitude of his power, rolling amidst the pluralities of benefice, regard a meagre curate with a deeper contempt of eye, than did this haughty descendant of Mahomet receive my supplication. Simply setting forth the loss of my servant, and the inability to supply his place, I requested that he would direct his people to prepare for me a meal, the materials of which were all in readi

* The descendants of Mahomet are so denominated.

ness. . This language had no effect on the Seid,

who confiding, I suppose, wholly in the efficacy of faith, had exploded from his creed the doctrine of good works: or, considering perhaps the trade of begging to be a monopoly of his order, he wished to expel and discourage all in

terlopers. After warmly expatiating on the dif

ficulties that surrounded me, throwing in also some strictures on his conduct, he grumbled an assent, but with an express proviso that I should produce fire-wood. I could as easily have brought him a bulse of diamonds as a stick, for it was then dark, and indeed hunger and fatigue had made me incapable of exertion. Turning from him with indignation, I loudly reprobated his violation of what even the rudest Mahometans hold sacred, the rights of hospitality; a ready performance of which, he ought to know, was earnestly enjoined, and that the Divine vengeance was pectiliarly denounced against all who transgress its law. This exclamation, delivered with heat, roused the attention of his adherents, one of whom desiring me to be pacified, proposed to adjust the embarrassment. He carried me to the house of a singing girl, who, on learning the story of my wants, tucked up her garment with a smiling alacrity, and commenced the business of relieving them without delay. It would have made your heart glad to have seen this honest girl baking my bread and boiling my peas, she did it with so good a will; frequently observing, that I had conferred an honour upon her, and that the present service was but a small return for the many favours she had received from those of my class. Will not you judge the declaration of her refusing all donation, an Eastern hyperbole? Yet I affirm to you that it is a genuine story, and were Mancote at no further distance from Lucknow, than Shieck Seray *, you might procure, from this honest girl, a testimony of its truth. - On the 13th I arrived at Mansir—eight cosses. The country now became more open, and the valleys better cultivated than any I have seen to the westward of Bissouly. The journey his day was pleasant, and what in my proceedtng was extraordinary, I did not deviate from ithe road, though alone. In passing near an encampment of beggars, (a merry troop they were) they desired me to alight and take some refreshment: the invitation was thankfully accepted, and I partook of a coarse but cordia!

* This place is about six miles distant from Lucknow.

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