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dotal robes, keeping him above half fin, and he there appeared attired in the day, would he accept the smallest full canonicals. His face, however, remuneration. This completed the was hidden, and the covering was not public rooms, (his highness is reported removed. The limbs appeared to be on occasions to give grand entertain- much shrunk. The holy man took ments, but the whereabouts was not the hand of the deceased, and, kissing manifest,) and we proceeded to the it with the most solemn devotion, ancient convent. This, formerly the burst into a wild laugh, and closed the Episcopaldwelling, is still the residence lid. A small trifle pró salute anime of the chief officials attached to the was expected in a box adjoining it. Vladika. The first among these is We next went to the robe-room, the vicar—(his other avocations hav- passing along a series of mouldy and ing only permitted the Vladika to offi- rat-eaten floors to a small room, such ciate on two occasions)—"no baron as might be found in a dilapidated or squire or knight of the shire," &c. stable-loft ; there, from old dingy Truly on this occasion the holy father boxes, were drawn forth such garhad not been unmindful of himself; ments as created astonishment the and, considering the early hour and richest damask and cloth of gold of dreary state of the weather, was as all colours-their weight enormousjovial as the heart could desire. A so massive that they would almost peculiar leer and frequent ebullitions stand alone. I have never seen any of laughter, from mysterious causes, thing so splendid; and the effect of showed the frame of mind he was in. such upon the fine form of the VlaAfter coffee, and a glass of aniseed dika must be worth beholding. In brandy, we viewed his priestly robes, another chest were deposited the .

which were of cloth of gold and very crowns of different Vladikas. They - handsome. We then proceeded to are of a shape resembling the ancient make the acquaintance of the other Russian diadem, being not of the officials, going the round of the con- form of any kind of coronet, but a vent. We were most cordially re- cap all covered or entire, globular at ceived ; indeed, we appeared to be a top, and diminishing towards where godsend to these poor people. There they fit the head. Perhaps there were was a Dalmatian schoolmaster, a very half a dozen or more. They were intelligent young man, who superin- richly ornamented with precious stones tended the branch of national educa- —the present Vladika's the most so. tion ; his highness's secretary, an I understand they are presents from St Italian; and a woman from Cattaro, Petersburg. By nine next morning the wife of another now absent at the the rain had somewhat cleared, and camp, and the only example of fe- the weather was mild and promising. male aristocracy in Montenegro. At We started, therefore, hoping that the apartment of each of the inmates. night to reach the quarters of the Vlacoffee, invariably excellent, and glass- dika, though no one could speak posies of brandy, were handed round. tively to the place. We made some These the holy personage in our com- enquiries as to the chance of finding pany always emptied to the uttermost, shelter, as the nights were singularly and then would romp and wrestle with cold; but it was of course apparent the schoolmaster, and perform all kinds that time alone could decide. None of frolics. He was a Hungarian by of our friends from the monastery, who birth. When our German or his had been so warlike the day before, Italian respectively failed, then Latin made their appearance; so we started assisted our communications ; and, without any addition to our party. what with the wet weather and the The road was nearly all on the descent, coffee, we all became very sociable and usually so stony and rough as to and chatty. After an hour or two so make riding the mule a matter of difspent, we took our way to the chapel. ficulty. We passed by Dobro SkorIt is very small ; not capable, I should sello, one of the richest communes of say, of accommodating above twenty Montenegro; there figs, vines, and or thirty persons. There, embalmed, olives are grown: a wild species of are the remains of the late Vladika. mulberry occurs, and large trees of it The vicar removed the lid of the cof- frequently appeared before a hut or hamlet. These are wide-spreading here Spiro, Petrarca, and myself were and ancient, but not tall. This dis- seated, with my host and several trict furnishes seven thousand fight- others. While the lady of the house ing men. Here we met the wife of

brought in the pipes and refreshments, one of the principal senators among I made some very sensible observaa troop of females with bundles of

tions, which Petrarca clothed in Serwood upon their head. We now had vian, and the replies seemed in every the first intelligence from the camp. way equal; notwithstanding, in about Descending into a little plain we met an hour the liveliness of the scene abont two hundred men returning to began somewhat to wear off, and I celebrate a village fête, as their ser- took the first opportunity of hastenvices were not just then required. They ing to rescue the other sufferer. Here passed in single file; wild, active- I discovered the object of public atLooking fellows they certainly were. tention seated on a bench with her In about half an hour after, we en- host and hostess, one on each knee as countered forty or fifty others. These it were, and the room thronged with were peculiarly warm in their friend

spectators ; women and children were ship, and slapped me so hard on the squatted or perched on every conback that it required my utmost force ceivable spot. The harmony of the to return the compliment with any party had, however, undergone for a thing like cordiality. They took it moment a trifling disorder; for, whilo into their heads that I was a certain all the rest had been full of complilong-expected bombardier who was ment and courtesy, one elderly lady to direct their artillery against Les- had thought proper to express herself sandro, and they loaded me with com- in a manner contradictory to the genepliments and good wishes. I almost, ral feeling, and in the strongest terms, at the moment, regretted my want of going even the length of shaking her fist knowledge in the art. About one at the occupant of the post of honour. o'clock we descended upon the Naria- She was, however, bundled out most ko river, then a rapid clear green unceremoniously, neck and crop, as stream, which conducts the torrents the phrase is. After further delays, of the upper mountains to the lake of and declining a most uninviting dorScutari ; and, in another hour, reached mitory, a boat was got ready ; four the village of that name, which is warriors were in her, and we departed known also by the Italian one of amid the cheers of the population and Fiumara. We trusted here to pro- a promiscuous discharge of fire-arms. curing a boat which would convey us This was warmly responded to by our the remainder of the journey; but the party ; nor did I much regret when natives of this free country are sel- these demonstrations had ceased, as dom in a hurry, and in fact it was a Montenegrian considers it quite necessary that we should be made etiquette to discharge his heavypopular idols for a certain space; nor loaded piece any where in the imme. bad we the means of keeping each diate vicinity of the head, so long as other in countenance. I was hurried the muzzle just clears the honoured off, accompanied by Petrarca, to the individual. In a few minutes we house of the captain of the district, a were gliding down the beautiful stream. senator, I understood, and eminently The absence of all wild animals is brave; while my unfortunate compa- peculiarly observable in the mounpion, without any one to help, was tains. A woodcock or red-legged taken possession of by a lady of rank, partridge are occasionally scen; but a Catiarese by birth, but who had few quadrupeds are met with, and the nearly forgotten her native tongue, larger and fiercer kinds are rarely and in a short time was surrounded known to occur. This deficiency, by all the females and olive branches however, in the general zoology, is of the place. The usual brandy, with amply compensated by the birds coffee and pipes, was served to our which frequent the Fiumara river. party. The houses, or little dirty As we proceeded, muffled up in the huts rather, have in front a small bottom of the boat, for it was very balcony covered at top, and raised cold, the fitful exertions of our wars about four or five feet from the ground; like crew disturbed quantiti

aquatic birds. The river widened Turks. It gives them little annoygreatly, the mountain banks disap- ance, being distant, I should think, pearing, till at length the shores be- five miles from the head of the lake. came obscure in the distance, and All was now water, but the principal thus it imperceptibly enters and forms channels alone were passable, the rest the lake of Scutari. Cormorants and being overgrown with weeds. At ducks passed over in flocks; noble several of these, long consultations herons got up screaming on every occurred as to our best route. It beside. One of these was the milk- gan to rain a little, and the place of white aigrette; superior in size to the our destination seemed doubtful. At common heron. The kingfishers had length we emerged on the broad beaua beautiful appearance. I never saw tiful lake, and our progress was easy. this bird elsewhere in such multitudes. We soon came in sight of the beI did not request any of my crew to leaguered island and fortress of Lesstry their skill, as I had had enough andro. The cannonade, which we had of firing for the time being, nor did I heard during the earlier part of the take a fancy to do so myself. The day, had long ceased, and all seemed large bore and light metal of their quiet. It was still twilight, but the arms, added to the weight of the place to which our people had detercharge, spoke of a recoil any thing mined on going, lay beyond the foot but pleasing, and which I hear usually of a mountain which projected to a takes place. Next day, however, I nearer approach with the island. This asked the captain of the boat to show was the very mountain on the top of me a shot; he took aim at a diver which the Vladika had placed his which kept appearing a-head; he fired batteries. They considered it pruwhen nothing but the neck was visible dent, therefore, to wait till dark, before above water, and the ball completely passing within point-blank range of divided it, the head barely hanging the enemy's guns. We, therefore, by a bit of skin. The bird was dis- hauled the boat up, and waited untant about fifty yards, and the boat der lee of the point. As soon as the moving, while he stood on the bow. light had failed, we moved forward, At some longer shots he was not passing stealthily along the shore to so successful. We passed a vil- within about three hundred yards of lage at a small distance, and lay the fort. The previous garrulity of

to hear the news. our party was now hushed, and they Most of the people were absent ; exhibited the most laudable prudence. but one, a great man, was seated on I observed, however, that they had all the hut-top, with a few idlers round their guns cocked and ready, as if him. This was the chief president of they intended to have returned any the senate—the speaker of the house, compliment from the fortress; but no in short; and undoubtedly, if stento- such contingency was at hand. The rian lungs are of any use for that office Albanians were engaged in chanting in a Montenegrian parliament, he was martial choruses, possibly to maintain most amply qualified. For twenty their own valour as well as dismay minutes this eminent man conversed their opponents, and show what exwith us—the distance at first being

cellent health and spirits they posabout a quarter of a mile, and probably sessed after the two days' siege. At it might be three miles or more before any rate, they made too much noise he was finally out of hearing. The to hear any thing but themselves. As Turkish fortress of Dzabiack now ap- we went along shore, we were several peared perched on a steep isolated time3 challenged by those on the hill rising from the marsh. It seem- look-out, and long explanations passed, as we passed it about two miles ed in low yet distinct tones. At length off, to be in a very dilapidated condi- the danger was passed, and we went tion. The Montenegrians, however, a-head for about two miles along the had at present no designs upon it; lake; then, turning off up a deep and its garrison maintained a peace- sluggish stream, we came in sight of ful neutrality. They have on seve- our quarters. A large fire blazed in ral occasions destroyed this fortress, the principal of three huts, and by its which has been occupied again by the light numerous persons were seen




around it. Landing with our bag- with the muddy water on the edge of gage and equipage, we soon joined the lake; but whether to make them the circle ; about a dozen warriors cleaner or dirtier did not appear. were here assembled. They were Breakfast was soon dispatched. Alvery civil to us, and glad to see our ready the cannonade had commenced, party. They gave us the best place and we hastened to the scene of acat the fire, where, spreading our tion. Lessandro is a small low islet, plaids, we were soon occupied with perhaps a hundred yards long by forty such dainties as the place or our own or fifty wide ; at one end was the providence supplied. When it came principal, at the other, a minor fort. to be bed-time, the fighting part of The first consisted of a thick round the community good-naturedly suffer- tower, flat at top, where their largest ed themselves to be persuaded to go gun was mounted. This was surto the other end of the room, by rounded by a low wall, with two small which means we were enabled to lie bastions at different angles; the other down by the fire. There they rolled was a square building, with a bastion themselves up, and, in the shortest at one corner, containing, I believe, possible time, were in a state of ob- the stores. All over the island were livion. I may observe that the the tents of the soldiers--that of the people in general, men or women, commander distinguished by a red have seldom any beds. They lie flag. I think I counted about forty. down any where on the floor,ensconced The Montenegrians declared they had in a capote or cloak, removing per- in the island tive hundred men, Not haps their opunkas, but scarcely ever one was visible, however, the whole any other garment. We should have day. Under the lee of the chief fort been pretty comfortable but for the was anchored a small gun-boat from minute hosts that peopled the apart- Scutari. On one side of Lessandro ment. Late at night, too, the extreme rises, in immediate proximity, the cold compelled several parties to seek mountainous island of Vranina. It refuge by the fire who had no right or was here that the Vladika at first little thereto—as the house-cat and wished to have taken up his position ; her two kittens ; she would take no but boats, it was said, were wanting denial, however often repelled. When- to transport his men and munitions. ever one awoke, there she would be Had he attempted this, a serious enwith her interesting offspring close counter would probably have taken jestled under one's chin. The family place; but he had given up the idea, dog, too, suffered severely from cold; and it was in consequence of this that he was, as often as he entered, kicked we had met the men returning home ont by his master in a way that did the day before. The spot he fixed on the beart good; and his murmurs of was å mountain directly opposite complaint and resentment would last Vranina, but at a greater distance for a full ten minutes. But the door from the object of attack. He had would not fasten, and he always found not with him altogether above fifty his way in again, trampling over, in

This time we had once more his way to the fire, the recumbent to pass within a quarter of a mile of forms of the sleepers, in a manner far the fort; and as we were a boat-load from conducive to good-humour. It of armed men hastening to headwas, therefore, not to be wondered at quarters, I somewhat expected they that our slumbers were not prolonged might have condescended to notice us. to a late hour. I set forth at break Such, however, was not thecase; and we of day to find a clear-looking place in landed and ascended the hill to where the river: for as I was to be present the battery was placed. We had not ed to his highness, I could not afford been there long before the Vladika, to forego any advantages. The ice who was on a higher part of the was on the side of the pools ; but ground, having heard of our arrival, with the aid of a small box I carried came down to meet us. I felt for a under my arm, I soon had all the re- moment rather modest, and began to quisites of an elaborate dressing-room. wonder what business I bad there. Several of the Montenegrians were However, we advanced with all boldalso on the alert, rubbing their faces ness, and soon distinguished the chief


tain from his attendants by his giant and solid, and I could not flatter him stature. No bishop's cassock covered with hopes of success. He did not, his towering form. Clothed in scar- however, appear to be without hope. let and gold, he descended the hill certainly, had he chosen to risk an with the true Albanian strut. His assault with some trifling loss, the manner was frank and cordial; and place might have been in his posseson his invitation we all three sat down sion; but boats were not at hand in on the grass to partake of a camp sufficient numbers, and besides, such luncheon. The Vladika was then in a proceeding might not have been pothe thirty-fifth year of his age. In pular with amateur soldiers. He truth, he was a goodly man-a very asked me if I had brought any letters Saul among his people. His height to him; I frankly owned I had not. I should think very nearly midway “Ah!" he said, “ you came from between six and seven feet. He was curiosity, that you might talk in the not fat, but the breadth and mas- gay circles of London, of having seen siveness of his chest and limbs was the Vladika of Montenegro.” I did extraordinary. His figure was very not say, that were I to do so, I should finely proportioned, and his move- talk very unintelligibly to a great ments free and active. His face was many of my hearers. After our collation somewhat broad, with good features, was finished, we rose and proceeded to and his voice peculiarly soft and pleas- the battery, if it could be honoured ing. His hair and beard black, and, with such a name. But had its power after the fashion of the Greek clergy, been as extensive as the view from it, uncut. He wore a Turkish pelisse of it would have amply sufficed. The scarlet, coming nearly to the knee, day was now most beautiful and and trimmed with gold and sable, a spring-like, and various flowers, with large fur cap, and the usual blue sportive butterflies and other insects, drawers and opunkas of the Montene- enlivened the mountain side. The grians. A pair of plain European broad blue lake lay beneath, and in pistols were in his belt—the only arms the extreme distance the position of he wore. The place where we sat Scutari itself could be distinguished. was in a most picturesque situation. Three ranges of mountains were visiThe Turkish balls kept whizzing past, ble, rising one above the other, till forming, as his highness remarked, the snowy chains of Bosnia bounded beautiful music. Indeed, it seemed the horizon. The cannonade, as there to me we were very nearly in the line was little to be apprehended, added a well-directed shot ought to have to the beauty and interest. The taken ; but, of course, it was not my wreathing of the white smoke on the place to speak. Our fare consisted Turkish tower, and the report borne of cold meat carved in slices with the along in the calm air, and echoed a yataghan, and rum out of the mouth dozen times by the distant mounof the same bottle. He conversed in tains — the gradual approach and French fluently, and various cour- whizzing of the balls, and the shot teous speeches showed it was not the from our guns, as it hit the buildings, first time he had encountered female or occasionally bounded along the society. He seemed excited when water, were all interesting novelties. relating the misdeeds of his enemies, I made a sketch, to the best of my and his usually languid voice assumed ability, of every object of interest in a little asperity, as he described the the vicinity of this lovely spot. As way in which, while he made war in regards matters purely military, we Bosnia, diables des Turcs" had had three guns in operation-short surprised his garrison at Lessandro. twelves, as I have already mentioned; My knowledge of gunnery was not a rampart was before them, formed of extensive, still I could not be igno- earth, bound with stakes, and about rant of the chance he had, with three three feet thick. I was told this had short twelve-pounders, of injuring any only been struck four times. Few building whatever, when firing at it people were about. Nor could gunat a distance of eight hundred yards, ners of fame have been in plenty, for in an almost perpendicular direction. I soon discovered Petrarca pointing The fort, besides, seemed very sturdy the cannon, The shoţ also was of


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