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It was that wicked revolution of chapeau rond passed, until it seems to France, or rather that dissolute time have settled down into that quiescent preceding it, which produced the most state of mediocrity which marks the mischief in the hat line. Look at any decline of empires and of hats. The of the pictures of that day-look at the brim is no longer only half an inch portraits of the Conventionalists - broad as it was once, nor four inches look at the old prints of country broad as we also remember it: it gentlemen hunting or riding races at seems to vary between the limits of Newmarket-remember the Sir Jo- one inch and two-a breadth just sufshuas in many a noble gallery; and ficient to let the line of shade, when you will not fail to remark that the the head is erect, come upon the eyechoice spirits of the day, the go-ahead lids, and just sufficient to clear the lads of that time, had let down the
But if the head be moved ever flaps of their cocked hats into slouch- so little, or if the rain come down ing, and we must say, most slovenly ever so slantingly, the services of the circular brims. There was a sort of hat are at an end: it is well enough free-and-easy look affected in that to intercept any thing coming down day about the head, totally at enmity perpendicularly, but
- slantendicuwith the prim rigidity of the cocked larly," as friend Slick says-no. Its beaver; you might have taken off present height is just enough to preyour chapeau rond, as it then came to vent your wearing it in a carriage, be called, and you might have sat on and such, too, as to give a moderate it - it would have been never the wind a good purchase upon it: the worse ; but not so with its stiff old substance is such that the least exfather-110 liberties were to be taken posure to wet ruins it, whether of with him ; once sit upon him, and you beaver or silk; a moderate blow will wonld have crushed him for ever. This crack or break its form; and for the very difference of hats marked a dif- first week, if you have any thing like ference of politics—at least in France. a sensitive head, or any bosses of unThere the old chapeau à trois cornes known qualities protruding from your was the badge of the aristocracy : the cranium, you are doomed to inceschapeau rond and the bonnet rouge sant headachs from hat-pinchings. It were sworn brothers in the cause of bas no properties of usefulness to redemocracy. The times were getting commend it, and none of ornament, unhinged; all fashions were relaxing; saving this—if it can be called suchso were public morals; so were pri- the being an invaluable appendage for rate morals; so were men's hats: hats a little man to make himself appear and heads seemed to havea sympathy, tall. What a wide interval from the and to have gone wrong together. simplicity of its Phrygian original !
And what has been the history of Having, therefore, criticized our the hat since that day ?—the civilian's present head-gear, and condemned hat we mean. Who remembers the our hats, without pulling them to overlapping crowns which came into pieces, let us enquire what a proper fashion soon after the great peace, at covering for the head should be: first a time when Frenchmen wore their of all in point of usefulness, and next brims extravagantly pinched up at in point of comely appearance. But the sides, and deeply pulled down fore let no man vainly imagine that we and aft? Sometimes the hat rose up expect to suit the fancies of all the in pyramidal majesty; sometimes it creatures privileged to wear hats, or was shut in like a telescope wanting even to cover their heads; we do not to be pulled out. And then every pretend to invent, or decide upon, kind of fancy man had a fancy hat: any one given type or form of heada there was the Neck-or-nothing hat, dress. So many are the wants of a the Bang-up, the Corinthian, the man in covering his head, so widely Jerry, and the Logic; or else dis- differing from each other are the exitinguished leaders of ton lent their gencies of different people, that uninames to it, and we had the Peter- formity in hats is to be given up as a shams, the Barringtons, &c. Through bad job: to attempt it would foil the every degree of absurdity has the strength of a Hercules : the utmost we can hope to effect is to lay down for your new hat first of all, but down certain limits for the variations of this with your crown too. Here, gentle apex of human pride.
reader, you will exclaim against our For us, then, who live in a climate taste, and will protest that we would rainy, windy, hot, and cold, all within sacrifice every thing to that horrid any twenty-four hours of the year, just utilitarian principle, which opposes all as the case may be, it is plain that we ideas of beauty and poetry. We are want for general use something that free to confess that, in our opinion, will be proof against the atmospheri- there is not much poetry to be made cal accidents that may befall any man about such a subject—unless some who goes abroad to take the air. And
“ All round my hat," here let it be observed, that in reason- may be alleged to the contrary ; but ing about hats, all thoughts about as for the beauty of the head-piece, that effeminate invention, the um- we protest that we admit its existence, brella, are to be laid aside. This utensil and think that it should be consulted is truly a disgrace to the manhood of by whomsoever would pay proper atthe times; and its existence, by allow- tention to his own outward appearance. ing people to dispense with warm The merely useful may possibly make cloaks and other anti-rain appliances, the shape approximate to that of a has caused more disease, in letting Quaker's or a jarvey's, but the beautithem catch cold, than any thing else ful has to elevate and modify it into we know of. Our stalwart ancestors the mystical proportions fit for a man did admirably well without umbrellas ; of taste. One other quality, however, they wore good cloaks or coats, and which is intimately connected with broad beavers to keep the rain out of the useful, has to be noticed. The their necks, faring not a jot the worse substance should not be hard and unfor it. Umbrellas are only fit for men- yielding. Witness, ye reminiscences milliners, Cockney travellers, and —ye painful images of bygone licadwomen. The nature of a hat, we achs, even yet flitting through our flatter ourselves, is something inde- brain like Titanic thunderbolts !-acpendent of cotton and whalebone; and cursed be the memory of that fellow instead of the umbrella claiming pre- Tightfit in Old Bond Street, who used cedence over the hat, the hat, we take to screw his hats on our cranium when it, should be above the umbrella. An we were young, and ere London had Englishman's hat, then, should be awakened us! As you value your comsomething that will keep the rain off fort, dear reader, never purchase a his face and neck when the weather hard hat. A hard heart may be borne is bad, and shield his eyes from the with, but a hard hat-never! And glare of the sun on the few days when last of all, a hat should be light-yes, sunlight is oppressive—and these two the lighter the better-light as a gosrequirements settle at once, on all samer web, though 'tis a simile that principles of common sense, that a will not bear stretching: You may man, if he has only one kind of cover- have the misfortune to be a heavying for the head, should have a hat headed man, but do not add to it that with a broad brim. This is the very of being heavy-hatted. Avoid the foundation of the definition of an use- extremity of suffering ; and observe ful hat, providing that a hat is really the climax of ill from which we would to be the thing worn for protecting a shield your head-a narrow-brimmed, man's upper story. Usefulness will hard, heavy, high-crowned hatalso decide against height in the Cui bono this same high
« τoδε γαρ βροτοίς μεγιστον ηλθετ' εκ crown. crown of ours, that looks more like a watering-pot deprived of its spout The covering of the head, then, and handle than a reasonable article must have its usefulness made ornaof human apparel ? Down with the mental, if not beautiful ; and the due crowns, say we! If you will wear a ornamentation of it will depend prinhat, down with your crown.
cipally upon its form, but also upon may put down your half-sovereign or its colour and material. Now, form sovereign, or whatever you please, is the principal thing; every one that
θεων κακον. .
has half an eye for art will tell you Well, it is upon principles of this kind this—'tis au admitted axiom. Either, that the covering of the head should then, the shape of the covering should be beautified. Now, we profess ourconform to that of the head, or it selves unable to make any better should not, and we take our ground reconciliation of the useful with the in support of the latter position. The beautiful for this purpose, than in the natural form of the head is deter- small, flexible, light, and broad-brimmined by the rotundity of the cra- med hat, which is still to be found in niam, beautifully modified by the some Spanish and Italian pictures ; waving curls of the hair-we speak a hat not quite so large as that worn of the abstract well-formed head; and in the reign of Charles I., yet with nothing that approaches to the same all its freedom and capability of asshape will ever do more than give a suming a variety of graceful forms; bad substitute for the outline of the not so stiff as the beaux of the Spanish head as nature framed it. Any cover- court, and the rakes of our own mering conceals the hair; and if you ry monarch's palace made it; not so remove from sight this intrinsically formal as we know James I. and Lord beautiful integument, it is a principle Bacon used to wear ; but something of bad taste to put in its place only a between all these three types. The poor copy of the same contour. If prevalence of straight lines in it should you cover the head, cover it with be avoided without its appearing slosomething that forms lines not cury- venly, and its dimensions should be ing like the skull, nor yet so angular such as to consult convenience withas to create too striking an opposi- out relapsing into a homely vulgarity. tion of ideas in the mind of the be- Such a kind of hat admits of any furholder. A close-fitting untasseled ther ornament which the fancy of the skull-cap does not improve the form wearer may induce him to add ; a of the head, for it is not half so grace- feather, a band, a buckle, or even a fnl as the hair; but a square hat or plain button for occasionally looping 3 pyramidal cap is truly detestable. up the brim on one side or other, This is the reason why the common (not two sides, for it would return to nightcap is ngly ; it fits the head too the old cocked hat,)—any of these exclosely, and its upper end conveys the traneous additions would harmonize, ludicrous idea of something made to and would be in due character with be pulled at. On the other hand, the its shape. Such a hat would certaindonble nightcap, pulled out and al- ly be useful; and that it would be lowed to hang down on one shoulder, ornamental we have only to decide by Spanish fashion, is less ugly—though consulting our eyes, and by looking at far removed from our own ideas of our ancestors' portraits of the sevenbeauty--because it introduces a new teenth century. systein of curves, and acts as a kind But there is another kind of coverof dependent drapery to compensate -ing for the head, which, for its pecufor the concealment of the hair. Here liar purposes, seems to us more useful is also the reason why the common and more ornamental even than this hat is so frightful; it gives us straight hat; we allude to the common round or nearly straight lines, going up- travelling cap, the officers' undress wards like tangents from the oval of cap in the British army. the face, and cut off above by another going a journey ? have you any rough straight line (the section of the crown) work to do? have you got a headat right angles : all such lines and ach and want something light? would angles are foreign to the face and you put on something that will not head. The common nightcap is too spoil by being pulled about, sat on, familiar, the common hat too stiff
. slept on, and stood on? something Observe the lines of the face and handy, useful, comfortable, and withal head; the projection of the nose, the good-looking?-What do you do? you rounded angularity of the chin ; the get a foraging cap. Every man looks vertical section of the head affording well in a foraging cap ; it harmonizes carves with decided yet harmonious with every body's face: it makes the irregularities ; the horizontal section old look young, and the young look producing a nearly regular contour. smart: it is without pretence, plain
Are you The pre
in detail, and yet elegant in outline: there is not one man in a thousand it has no straight lines in it, and yet whose face they suit. All fancy-caps its curves are in contrast with those with whalebone, falling tops, angular of the head; they run in opposite din projections, &c., we utterly abomirections: and the shade of the cap, if nate; we pin our faith to the quiet, it has one, emulates the decisiveness unsophisticated, gentlemanlike cap of the nose, and gives character to worn by our officers : it beats almost the profile of the head, just as the any other head-dress in the world. nose gives point and force to the face.
ailing tendency of the age Nothing so easily admits of suitable is to avoid distinctions of dress exornament: a plain band-a golden cept in the value of the material, and one-or even a coloured one---makes then only between the two great diit suitable to the various ranks and visions of society—the affluent and occupations of men : while its mate the poor. Hence all ornament seems rial, admitting of infinite variety, ac- to be a superfluity, except upon occacording to the taste of the wearer, sions of public display or military sernever injures the source of its beauty, vice ; and men will not now listen to its form. The cap fails in only one any one who advises them to put feathing; it is unfit for rainy weather; thers and gold lace on their hats and it will only do for dry days. Do not caps : they would as soon think of attempt to put a flap behind it, and returning to the embroidered coats of tie it under your chin-you at once their grandfathers. The principle is convert it into an ugly nightcap ; its a good one: in the palmy days of curves then imitate those of the head, Rome, the differences of dress bore no and the ridiculous takes the place of proportion to the differences of stathe becoming. For three hundred tion ; distinction in dress was the faildays, however, out of the three hun- ing of the middle ages, a consequence dred and sixty-five, such a cap may of some lurking seeds of northern be worn with the greatest comfort and barbarism, which are only now ceasadvantage : while, for simplicity and ing to be propagated. We seem, like elegance, it has no rival. We exclude the great men of the Eternal City most vigorously all other kinds of caps; eighteen hundred years ago, to be we admit nothing but the common looking more at the inward worth and round foraging cap, with a small shade influence of a man, than at his outover the eyes ; we especially set our ward state and dress; and it is a good faces against the little quirked High- sign of the times; it is a reasonable land cap, now revived, and becoming inclination of the mind; but it conpopular among the southrons. This fines the exercise of taste in dress. cap has part of its curves- those be- Men of the present day are deterhind the head approximating too mined to be plain about the head as closely to the curve of the skull: in well as about the body; all ornament fact, at the hinder part it is a skull- of head-dress they have left to solcap; whereas, the other part of the diers and to the fairer half of the curves in front are too much in oppo- creation :-sed hæc hactenus—we resition to the outline of the face: they serve our remarks on the coiffures of bend over and form an unpleasant these two classes for another occasion. contrast with the nose and chin : they
H. L. J. are deficient in the shade or visor, and
TIIE THREE GUARDSMEN,
GUARDSMEN have at all periods or two of books in the Bibliothèque been a racketing, rollicking set of Royale were not placed there for the fellows. Whether ancients or mo- mere purpose of astonishing provinderns, infidels or Christians, præto- cials, or causing English tourists to rians or janissaries, the mousquetaires stare and lift up their hands in admiand Scottish archers of the French ration ; but that one of the objects of Louises, or the lifeguards of "bonnie their preservation might well be, that Dundee's" own regiment, they have they should afford suggestions to any always claimed, and usually enjoyed, distinguished littérateur who happened a greater degree of license than is ac- to be, like himself, in want of an idea. corded to the more unpretending sols Emerging, therefore, from his comdiery of the line. The first in the fortable abode in the Chaussée d'Anfield, and the last out of it, they have tin, he turned his steps in the direcsometimes seemed to think that, by tion of the royal library, and was thrashing the king's enemies, they soon up to his ears in dusty tomes acquired a right to baton his subjectsand jaundiced parchments. After that captured cities atoned for the much research, he discovered a folio wrongs of deluded damsels, and that manuscript, numbered, as he tells us each extra blow struck in the fight, in his preface, 4772 or 4773, and purentitled them to an extra bottle in porting to be a memoir, by a certain the barrack-room. On duty, disci- Count de la Fère, of events that ocpline - off duty, dissipation-seems curred in France towards the latter to hare been the motto of these gen- part of the reign of Louis the Thirtlemen; and if it be the case, that they teenth. Upon perusal, he found this occasionally forgot the former part of MS. so interesting, that he applied their device, it, on the other hand, is for, and obtained permission to publish no where upon record, that they were it; and the memoir in question saw oblivious of its latter portion. Fight- the light under the title of Les Trois ing hard and drinking hard, living Mousquetaires. hard and dying hard, the bravest men The piquant and interesting matter and most desperate debauchees of all contained in this book, caused it to countries, have worn the uniform of be much read, and numerous persons guardsmen.
were curious to see the original manuOur old friend, M. Alexandre Du- script. To their infinite surprise, howmas, who, if we may believe one of ever, they could obtain no account hiz biographers, passes twelve hours whatever of such a document; and a-day in driving a goosequill for the what was still more provoking, the entertainment and particular edifica- librarians seemed to look upon them tion of his countrymen, found himself, as insane when they asked for it. one fine morning, desperately at a There was much running up and down 10-s for something to write about. the library stairs, much mounting He is, perhaps, not the first writer of upon step-ladders, and tumbling of fiction who has been in a like predi- paper and parchment, much grumbling cament; and even if he were, it would of puzzled librarians and disappointed be neither wonderful nor unpardon- applicants, until at last, the most obable, seeing that his average rate of stinate became convinced that the production is about three volumes per aforesaid MS. had no existence save month. There is a limit to all things, in the imagination of M. Dumas, who even to the imagination of a French had, as it is vulgarly styled, taken romance writer; and M. Dumas, with- a rise" out of the public. out exception the most prolific of mo- In the spring of the year 1625, dern scribblers, was for once hard up a young Gascon gentleman named for a subject.
D'Artagnan, left his home to seek L'hôpital n'est pas pour les chiens, fortune at Paris. He was mounted says the French proverb. It oc- on an ill-looking cob, some fourteen curred to M. Dumas, that the league years of age—that is to say, within