It is

being allowed to run to stalk each summer. also necessary, when it is intended to force asparagus annually, that some seed should be sown every spring, and a due quantity of plants transplanted, as before directed, by this practice. After the three first years, an annual succession of plants, fit for forcing, may be procured. But where only a small quantity of buds is required, and it is inconvenient to wait for the raising of the plants from seed, they may always be purchased at a reasonable price from any respectable nurseryman, who generally grows them for this purpose, and also for the natural ground plantations.

Asparagus is usually forced on bark or dung hot-beds, prepared on the open ground; but latterly flued pits have been held in much estimation for this purpose, as they force with greater success, and with much less labour, than dung hot-beds. In preparing the dung for hot-beds, more attention is necessary than is generally given, especially to those made throughout the winter.

For the bed, a quantity of good, long, fresh horse dung is requisite, which must be thrown together in a heap, for four or five days, to ferment; after that time it should be regularly turned two or three times, that its rancidity may be evaporated; then select a convenient spot, and make it up into a bed three feet six inches high, and ten or twelve inches larger, all round, than the size of the frames which are to be set upon it.

Hot-beds for asparagus are generally made on level ground; but a better way would be to dig a trench about a foot deep; and, if the earth thrown

out is light and rich, it will serve to cover the bed preparatory to the planting. When it is made, set on the frame and glasses, leaving the latter a little way open, that the rank steam may more readily pass off; when that is subsided, which may be known by the smell, the bed should be made level, and the top beaten down with the back of the spade. Some good, rich, light, and garden mould is then spread on the surface of the bed, to the depth of six or eight inches; it will then be in a fit state for planting, care being taken that there is no cavity caused by the sinking of the bed, so as to allow the heat to escape.

The frame should be made of well-seasoned deal, one inch and a half thick, ten feet seven inches long, two feet deep at the back, and one foot three inches in front; the lights can be about three feet six inches wide, with two iron bars placed across each for strength. It should have three coats of paint previously to using; and in glazing, the glass must lap over about the eighth of an inch; such a frame will not only be useful for forcing asparagus, but for other vegetables, as potatoes, cucumbers &c. When the burning steam has subsided, and the bed is finished ready for planting, take up and prepare the necessary quantity of roots from the natural ground; then begin at the back, or one end of the hot-bed, and raise a small ridge of earth (the author advises extra mould to be used for this purpose, otherwise too much will be taken from off the dung) crosswise upon the surface, five or six inches high, against which lay the first row of roots: when that is done, place another row against these in the same

manner upon the surface of the bed, with the crowns upright and as close to one another as you can conveniently place them; draw a little earth to the lower ends of the roots as each row is placed, or insert the ends a little into the earth. They are often planted without either drawing any mould about the fibres or inserting them therein; but this is not so good. Proceed by placing one row against another till the whole bed is completed. Care must be taken to place all the crowns of such an equal height that the whole may form a level surface. Then cover the crowns all over evenly an inch deep with some finely broken or sifted light vegetable mould, working it in among the buds with your fingers, which finishes the operation until the buds appear. As soon as the beds are made and planted, in order to judge of the temperature of the heat, it is proper to thrust some sharp-pointed sticks down between the roots into the bed; and by drawing them up daily, and feeling the lower part, you will be able to judge of the degree of heat, and be regulated accordingly.

The roots will soon begin to send forth fresh fibres into the earth, and in about a fortnight the buds of the asparagus will make their appearance, when they are to have their final additional covering of four or five inches of fine, light, rich earth.

The bed being now finally earthed and the heat become moderate, the lights should be kept constantly upon the frames till the buds appear, and during the night should be covered with garden mats, which must be removed every morning, except in uncommonly severe weather; for it is of importance

C

when the asparagus shoots begin to advance, to admit as much light and sun as possible, to produce a green colour in the top of the buds; if the heat is moderate, the glasses need only be opened a little way in fine days, so as to allow any steam to pass off, especially if the plants are required to be drawn up quickly. By admitting a larger portion of air, the buds will rise slower, but will acquire a larger size, better flavour, and greener colour; hence you may sometimes, in the spring-made beds, take the glasses off entirely for a few hours on a warm dry day, particularly when the heat of the bed is considerable, on the first appearance of the buds after the bed is planted.

After the bed has been made two or three weeks, and it is observed not to heat kindly, or rather to decline, it will be proper to line the outside with some fresh warm dung, which will forward and revive the heat more effectually.

When the asparagus bed is planted, and the heat has begun to warm the roots, give the plants a good watering from out of a pot with a rose on it; let the bed have enough to moisten the mould well and to wash it in among the roots. Repeat the watering occasionally; it is, however, advisable to be sparing in the use of water at this season of the year.

The asparagus is generally fit for cutting about five or six weeks after the planting of the beds, or when the shoots are advanced four or five inches above the surface of the earth.

In gathering the buds in hot-beds, it is best to break them off as close to the bottom as possible,

by thrusting the fingers and thumb down into the bed; it is less likely to injure the young shoots rising below than by cutting them, as in the open ground.

The forcing of asparagus in fluid pits is by far the most eligible method, as these may answer many other purposes; besides, the grass is of a much better colour and higher flavour than that produced on a dung hot-bed. As it frequently happens that this esculent is wanted in a hurry, in large families, where much company is kept, the conveniency of a pit will be found a great relief in this respect. A pit twenty-five or thirty feet long and six wide, and which one small fire can perfectly command, is large enough to force sufficient asparagus for a large family from November to May in a constant and regular succession; after which it may be advantageously employed in raising a late crop of cucumbers or melons, or in striking young pine-apple plants, &c. The consumption of fuel necessary for this purpose is so trifling, even where it is most valuable, that it ought not to deter any one who requires asparagus, French beans, and salads, at an early season, from building so useful a compartment in the forcing garden. If a scrupulous attention is paid to the general design, and particularly to the construction of the fire-places and flues, this expedient will give more satisfaction to the gardener than any other hot-bed whatever, and in the end will prove a saving to the proprietor. The construction of this kind of pit is very simple, and can be built by any bricklayer at a small cost. We are indebted for the invention to M'Phail, an