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good account. The sugar-cane was indigenous to Tahiti; but it is only since the inhabitants have been christianized, and taught by the missionaries, that they have manufactured sugar, and thus converted the cane into a valuable article of commerce. At present, the Samoa islanders have nothing to dispose of but a little cinet, and small quantities of tortoiseshell. In a very few years, however, should our labours be successful, they will be taught to prepare hundreds of tons of cocoa-nut oil, and large quanties of arrow-root, annually; to manufacture sugar; to cultivate their land; and to supply our shipping with provisions. Thus, wherever the missionary goes, new channels are cut for the stream of commerce; and to me it is most surprising that any individual, at all interested in the commercial prosperity of his country, can be otherwise than a warm friend to the missionary cause. The shipping of our country, too, derive as much advantage from missions as its commerce. This will appear, if it be recollected, that intercourse between Europeans and the untaught islanders of the Pacific, is always dangerous, and has often proved fatal. The adventurous Magelan fell at the Ladrone islands; captain Cook was barbarously murdered at the Sandwich group, the ship Venus was taken at Tahiti; M. de Langle and his companions were killed at the Samoas; the Port au Prince was seized at Lefuga; and the crew of the Boyd was massacred at New Zealand. And now, at all these islands, with the exception of the Ladrones, there are missionary stations, whither numbers of vessels direct their course annually, the crews of which look forward with delight to the hour when the anchor shall be dropped in the tranquil lagoons, and they find a generous welcome and a temporary home. That outrages do still occur where there are no missionaries, captain Beechy's account of his intercourse with the inhabitants of Easter and Gambier islands, and the massacre of the entire crew of the Oldham, at Wallace's island, with other similar events of more recent occurrence, plainly demonstrate; whilst the fact, that, in those islands, or ports, where missionaries are settled, such acts of violence have been prevented, is established by evidence equally decisive. Rev. John Williams.

Cord made from the cocoa-nut husk.

HAT MAKING.

WE propose, in a series of papers, to describe the manufacture of the most important articles of clothing. We are not acquainted with any general and popular descriptions which would enable a person to inform himself about those manufactures which he may have no opportunity to examine. Strange as it may appear, there are but few persons, except those engaged in the several branches of trade, who could give an account of the manner in which the material of any part of their clothing is made. They would perhaps even laugh if a stranger, unacquainted with our garments, were to ask them, By what process is the material of your hat, shoes, or coat, constructed? It is our intention to give such explanations as shall enable the reader to answer such a question.

We begin with a description of the manufacture of hats-a useful and necessary part of clothing to a people who live in so variable a climate as that in which it has pleased Divine Providence to place us. There are some countries in which the hat is an occasional article of dress; these, however, are but few, for whether the climate be hot or cold, the head needs a covering. Too great an intensity of heat produces fever, and frosts and rains produce colds. There is an old and valuable prescription often mentioned as a means of preserving health, 'Keep the head cool, and the feet warm,' founded on a just knowledge of the constitution of the human frame. It is, however, frequently misunderstood; it does not mean that the head is to be exposed without protection to all the variations of temperature which overtake us in our changeable climate, or that the feet are to be kept warm before a large coal fire; but that they are both to be kept at a uniform temperature, the feet being warmer than the head. The best way of keeping the feet warm is by regular exercise.

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The evidence of design in the construction of the human frame, is not in any part more strikingly displayed than in the form and construction of the skull, which covers that delicate structure the brain, with whose healthy action the power of sensation, and consequently of thought, is so intimately connected. But, although the brain is thus so carefully protected from violent injury and the influence of a change in temperature, the necessity of a covering is evident.

Hats are of various shapes, and constructed of different materials. It is our principal object to describe the manufacture of those which are now worn, and constructed of felt, though a short history of their introduction into general use may not be uninteresting to the reader. For many of the facts we shall mention, we are indebted to a lecture on the subject, given by Mr. Arthur Aikin, before the Society for the Encouragement of Arts.

The difference between a hat and cap may perhaps be said to consist in the brim: a hat is a cap with a brim. Hats were used by the earliest Greeks; even at the time of Homer, the Dorians wore large brimmed hats when on a journey; and the same practice obtained among the Athenians, as is evident from the equestrian figures on the Elgin marbles. The Romans also wore hats with brims large enough to shade their faces from the sun when on a journey, but usually the head was left uncovered. A corner of the toga, or loose outward garment, was sometimes thrown over the head; but at festivals they wore a bonnet, or cap, which peculiarly distinguished the freeman from the slave.

"In the middle ages, the bonnet, or cap, with a narrow margin in front, appears to have been used among the laity, while ecclesiastics wore hoods or cowls; but Pope Innocent the Fourth, in the thirteenth century, allowed cardinals the use of scarlet hats; and about the year 1440, the use of hats by persons on a journey appears to have been introduced into France, and soon became common in that country, whence probably it spread to the other European states. The cap of the ancients was certainly made of wool, and this, as well as the hat, was probably knit work. When felt was first introduced, as a material for hats, is not known; but it is stated that the hat worn by Charles the Seventh, of France, on occasion of his triumphal entry into Rouen, in 1440, was of felt."

It is well known that the Turcomans cover their seats with felt; and it is not improbable that some of the crusaders, who for a time dwelt with this people, as prisoners of war, may have brought the method of manufacturing felt into Europe. It is, however, usually stated that a monk, who was accustomed to wear some carded wool between the foot and the shoe, found after a time that it had

so matted together as to form a solid substance, resembling, in some respects, woollen cloth; and that after his fortunate discovery, he succeeded in the manufacture of felt.

Every one knows that the wool of the sheep will not mat, or, in other words, felt, when in its raw state, that is, so long as the natural oil or greasy matter adheres to it. The reason of this is not perhaps accurately known, but is supposed to arise from the roughness or asperity of the fibres being filled with the oily substance. When a fibre of wool is held by the root, and drawn through the fingers, it passes through without resistance; but when held at the tip, and drawn in the opposite direction, a slight resistance is felt. To account for this, many persons imagine that it is jagged with fine teeth, pointing obliquely upwards. If this be the case, it is easy to imagine that the natural grease of the sheep may fill up the asperities in a raw state, and prevent the matting. But when the wool is scoured, the tendency to felt is very great, so much so that it is necessary to oil the thread before it can be spun. This is also proved by the liability to knotting in flock beds, or mattresses, that is, those which are stuffed with carded wool. Another illustration of the liability of prepared wool to felt is given by a modern author. A piece of woollen cloth, he says, that has undergone no process after weaving, may, without difficulty, be unravelled; but after it has passed through the fullingmill, it is no longer subject to this action, the filaments of which each adjacent thread is composed being entangled together by a species of felting. The result of this is, that the cloth shrinks in length and breadth, but becomes proportionally thicker and more dense. The higher the heat is to which the cloth is exposed, and the longer it is continued, the more complete does the felting become.

In endeavouring to describe the manufacture of the hat, it will be well to keep in mind that there are two processes altogether distinct from each other; the formation of the body or shape, and the application of the nap. The body of nearly all the hats brought into our own market is formed of felt, and formerly the nap or roughing was beaver, the only difference between one at a high and one at a low price, being in the manufacture. Other materials are,

however, now used, and there are consequently many kinds of hats. The beaver hat, which is formed of felt and roughed with beaver; the plate hat, which is napped with musk rat; the felt hat, which has no nap; the silk hat, is covered with silk plush; and one which may be called the hemp hat, being almost entirely formed of that material.

It is not so much our object to explain or describe the slight deviations required in the construction of these several sorts of hats, but to convey to our readers a general knowledge of the subject. The description we are about to give has reference to the beaver hat especially, but is explanatory of the general process, whatever materials may be used, and whatever may be the quality of the article produced.

The body of the beaver hat is formed of lamb's wool, or that obtained from the lama, pacos, and other species of the camel, natives of the Andes. The nap is formed of beaver down, generally mixed with the down of the English hare, which is always shaven from the skin, or there would otherwise be the roots preventing the entire union of the two substances.

The workman has first to form the hat, which is done in the following manner. A certain weight of materials, sufficient to construct the hat, in the proportion of a half of rabbit's fur, about a quarter of wool, and the remainder of red wool and carded silk, is given out to the workman. These materials are placed upon a board or bench, about five feet in length, and the rabbit's fur is placed in a heap, over which is slung a large bow, such as that used by violin players, only much larger, being about six feet long, and proportionately strong, with a stout single string. This bow is brought immediately over the heap, and is struck with the thumb, thus producing a vibration, which separates the hairs. When this has been done perfectly, the whole mass is swept away with a wicker frame to one corner of the bench, and the wool is brought forward and bowed in the same manner. The hair and wool are then placed together, and bowed till they are perfectly mixed. They are then spread in an even surface with the wicker-frame, and covered with an oilcloth, called the hardening skin; after which they are pressed by the workman till the fibres intermix, and make a comparatively solid layer. A piece of brown

paper, in the form of an equilateral triangle, is then damped, and placed on one side, the edges of the material being turned over upon it. This is done to prevent the matting of the two surfaces. The mixed materials are in this state wrapped in damp cloth, and rolled and unrolled, pressed, bent and folded in various directions, so as to unite the substances more perfectly.

When the basoning, as this process is called, has been completed, that of planking is commenced; so termed from the place on which the operation is performed. A series of planks, generally about eight in number, are ranged as inclined planes around a lead boiler, containing beer-grounds, sulphuric acid, and water. In France, wine-lees were used instead of beer-grounds, but have of late been rejected; as they were only useful from the acid they contained; sulphuric acid is found sufficient. This compound being raised to the boiling point, the workman, placed on one of these planks, sprinkles the prepared wool and fur, and continually presses them together with a thick piece of leather, which covers the whole palm of the hand. The moisture and pressure together cause a shrinking and thickening of the material, and the more so as it is rolled and worked. It is then dipped into the liquid again, and after the same rolling is again scalded, and, when pressed by an iron rolling-pin, is placed in a stove to dry.

The next operation is that of stiffening. A saturated solution of shellac, in spirits of wine, is applied by a brush to the inner surface of the felt; after which it is again placed in a stove; and should any part of the liquid pass through to the other surface, it will cause a roughness, which may be removed by immer. sion in a hot solution of an alkali or borax, which may be easily removed by a copper scraper. The stoving is then repeated, and any long hairs above the felt are removed by singeing over a fire of wood shavings.

In this manner the substance of the hat is formed; and we now come to a consideration of the process of napping. About half or three quarters of an ounce of beaver's fur, and a small quantity of cotton, is bowed down in the manner already described, and a felt, about three inches longer than that of which the body is constructed, is formed. A strip, three inches wide, is then torn off to

cover the upper part of the brim of the hat. To apply the roughing, the body is first dipped into the boiler, and the nap is fixed in its place with a wet brush; it is then rolled in a hair cloth, dipped into hot liquor, and made to mat with the felt by processes similar to those by which the felt itself is made. We have now the material of the hat, but its shape is conical. The next process is that of blocking. By slow and careful means the cone is drawn out into a cylindrical form, and being drawn over a wooden block, is tied to it. The dyeing is the next process, which is done by boiling for some hours in a solution of sulphate of iron, verdigris, gall-nuts, and logwood. A deep and permanent black is thus produced. When drained and dried, the goods are taken off the block and sent to the finishingroom. The first process here is steaming over a jet, which softens the hat and renders it very pliable. A piece of scaleboard is fastened to the under side of the crown to strengthen it, and a piece of linen is pasted over to keep it in its place. This being done, the hat is placed upon a block, and means are taken to smooth it, that is, to give the nap a uniform direction. It is then trimmed and finished off in that shape which may happen to be at the time most fashionable.

In reference to the manufacture of silk hats, we may be permitted to make one quotation, which will convey to the reader all the information that can be given in this article. "Silk hats, as they are commonly called, were invented some years ago. They are hats with a thin wool body, and a nap of silk. But as silk is not capable of felting, it was necessary to discover some other method of fixing it on the body. After many trials, that which has been finally adopted has been to take the silk manufactured into plush, with a pile of unequal length, and to sow it together into a cover, just capable of fitting the felt body. This latter is then smeared over with an adhesive resinous mixture; and as soon as it has become dry, the bag or cover of silk plush is drawn over it, and fixed firmly to the body by means of a hot iron; it is then finished in the usual way."

There are many uses to which felt is applied. The polishing wheels of those who work in brass are covered with it; and it is a substance precisely suited for the purpose required, as it retains the

oily and other substances necessary in the process of polishing. It is also occasionally used as a filterer, for which it is well adapted. But the most important application of felt is to the sheathing of vessels. The copper with which the keel of a ship is covered, is soon corroded by the action of the sea water, and is also in a short time completely covered with shell-fish and vegetable substance, which greatly impede the sailing of the ship. To prevent this, the copper is covered with felt, which, from its very composition, hinders the adhesion of those substances which would otherwise attach themselves to the copper.

"THE WASTED FLOWERS."

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"O MAMMA !" exclaimed little George, as he ran to meet his mother and me, as we were approaching him, while he and his little sister were busily engaged in play, "O mamma! Annie has wasted all her flowers! They did not die, but she pulled them to pieces." And so it was, for on coming near to the little girl, we found her sitting on the gravel-walk, weeping bitterly over the still beautiful though scattered fragments of the flowers, which she had in childish wantonness destroyed. Poor Annie! her loss was easily remedied, and her tears soon wiped away by a bounteous, though I thought an injudicious supply of fresh-gathered roses, which, doubtless, ere an hour had passed, would share the same fate, and, perhaps, be wept over with the same sorrow.

As I turned away from the spot, little George's simple words, "Annie has wasted all her flowers," still seemed to ring in my ears, and I thought with grief of how many the same complaint might be made, and how many hearts have had to mourn over the waste of flowers more precious than Annie's. The gracious Sovereign and Disposer of all things has, it is true, appointed this life to be a pilgrimage; yet, in compassion to our feeble nature, he often strews our pathway with flowers, that we may be cheered and refreshed by their sweet fragrance. He gives us not only what is necessary for sustenance, but at times makes the bright blossoms of earthly joy to bloom around us in great abundance. And even those who are led through a more barren and rougher road, may always discover, if they look with faith and patience, some buds of hope entwining with