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from Suryagarha to Dariyapur that they were good, and accordingly made arrangements to obviate difficulties, but this care was vain, as I found that the very reverse of the account given was the case.

Bolguzor is a large village chiefly inhabited by Dusads and Doms. It is situated at a little distance from the river which passes Gyah; but here it is not called the Fulge, its name changes to Hulwan.' It is navigable seven or eight coses up, and at Bolguzor is never fordable, although it does not seem to be above 100 yards wide. It has little current and is very dirty.

19th October. Having crossed the Phulgo, I passed through a very fully occupied and populous country to Dariyapur. The country finely wooded, and many new plantations forming. The villages are very slovenly and not shaded, but many of the huts are good and their yards surrounded by mud walls. I passed through Protappur, Jyetpur, Indupur, Boraiya", Horija, DamnaR, Marah, and Hadda, all large villages with shops. The fourth and seventh are Invalid Thanas. The women do not conceal themselves so much as in Bhagalpur. They are as dirty.

25th October.-I was detained until this day at Dariyapur by the backwardness of the people to give information. I believe that they were in part withheld by the Muharir of the Thana, who it is said advised them to be very cautious. The Daroga, a decent man, appeared to do all that he could. Threats, it is said, were used against one of the zemindars who first came forward. I saw only the people of Giaspur. Those of Milki the Chuhusari, and those of Selimabad, kept at a distance. In the morning I went about five coses to Makra", an invalid station. Dariyapur is a large

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village with many shops and a very large inn. It is poorly built, the houses huddled together. There is one regular street, but very narrow.

The country very beautiful, well planted and cultivated. Passed several large villages, all containing shops. No gardens, very slovenly huts mostly built of clay but very rough. The ruinous walls in many parts have raised little eminences on which the villages stand, new clay being chosen for rebuilding the walls. Many gourds etc., partly on the roofs, partly on arbours. A few Ricinuses occasionally as a shade for the yard, road narrow, much neglected.

At Mekra the invalids complain much. They say that after having been at the expense of clearing the Bita, of which each had five or six bighas, the whole has been taken from them and Tal given in its stead. The Tal produces about 2 mans and lets at 3 annas. Mekra, that is, the invalids' station is a large village with a wide street. A bungalow has as usual been built at it by Colonel Hutchinson. It consists of one very large room, rather ruinous. A fine camping ground in front for a small detachment. At the other two stages in this district where I have been, there was no place fit for a dozen tents.

26th October.-I went about four coses to Bar1 through a similar country. The road in most part very narrow, about eight feet [wide] and not much beaten. Many pilgrims, very few other passengers.

1st November.-Remained at Bar until this day. Bar is a very large place, the Kazi says that it contains 5,000 houses (Varis). The streets very narrow. The brick houses of the worst Hindustani fashion, and the thatched roofs and mud walls inconceivably rude. Several Muhammadan families in respectable circumstances and good manners reside at it. They seem to prefer towns, as they have all landed estates but seldom visit these.

(1) Bar, R. and B.A.; Barh.

In the morning went about five coses to Bukhtiyarpur. The road part of the way led by the side of a nalah, a branch of the Ganges, which becomes dry in spring. The river there seems to be gaining although the people complained that a whole Tapah had been carried away. A good many large villages with shops, thatch in particular exceedingly rude. Bukhtiyarpur a small village with some shops, as usual in this country.

2nd November.-I went about 8 miles to Vaikanthpur,' through a country much the same as that seen for some days past. Vaikanthpur is a large serayi. The village has once been large, but all except the Brahmans have left the place. The reason assigned by the zemindar is that they were very much subject to be seized as porters. The zemindar, who pays 8000 Rs. a year, is a decent peasant, exceedingly civil.

3rd November. I went rather more than eight miles and halted a little west from Jaffier Khan's garden About two miles from Vaikanthpur I came to an old garden of Setab Rai's, now grown quite wild. It is surrounded by a square wall of brick with a kind of turret at the corner. It is not of any considerable size. About two miles farther came to Futwa, for this country a large town. Most of the houses clay, a great many much neater than [at] Bar. It is close built, but the streets very narrow. In the town I crossed the river Punpun, of considerable size. There had been a wooden bridge with very massy piers of bricks, but some of them have given way and the Company defrays the expense of an excellent ferry. In the time of Major Rennell Futwah would appear to have been on the west side of the Punpun. A part is still so, but by far the largest part is now on the east side. The great Punpun of that geographer is now quite dry, but a small bridge marks where a small stream passes in the rainy season. From the size of the two bridges, both old, what Rennell calls

(1) Bakhtiarpur.

(2) Bycontpour, R.; Bykontpour, B.A.; Baikatpur,
(3) Futwah, R.; Futwa, B.A.; Fatuha.

(4) Pompon, R. and B.A.; Punpun N.

the small Punpun must always have been the larger. Without the town towards the west is a large Sangot of brick. Near Jafier Khan's garden has been another probably dependent, nothing however remains except four turrets surmounted by cupolas at the corners. The whole is cultivated. Near it, towards the east of it, a native merchant of Patna has a very handsome country seat. A shut up zenana, and an open house for entertaining company at some distance, with a neat garden between. There is besides a stone temple of Siv in a garden on the opposite side of the road, the handsomest Hindu building that I have seen, although it is small. It seems to have been built on a European plan, and consists of a pyramid with a portico towards one side. Between this garden wall and the road is a terrace covered with plaster and shaded with trees for the refreshment of passengers. A merchant has also dug a tank near Jafier Khan's garden and lined it on four sides with brick, but it is a very poor rude work, the steps on the descent being about two feet high and the banks quite rough. Jafier Khan's garden has been a kind of fortification, surrounded by a wall strengthened by turrets and some buildings, part of which remain. In the centre has been erected the chief Songot of the Sik sect. I was admitted only into the garden in front, which is surrounded by a mud wall with a gate towards the north daubed with wretched paintings of Hindu Gods and Heroes. I could not be admitted into the brick buildings south from the garden with my shoes, and as the Mahant and his chief disciples were absent at the Mela, I did not think this worth while.

4th November.-I went to Patna. All the way from Jaffier Khan's garden to the eastern gate, about 11⁄2 miles, is a kind of suburb very meanly built. But there is one very handsome house belonging to some native, entirely in their own style but built with much taste. From the east gate I went through narrow lanes, but with many tolerable houses, to the western; which I should have taken to be a distance of three miles, but Major Rennell makes it only 1 miles.

From the western gate and to the west end of the town of Bankupur is not quite two miles. Bankupur is in general very poorly built, but contains many of the European houses and that of Rajah Koliyan Singh, a very great building in the Anglo-Indian style. Beyond it is a plain round which many of the European houses are situated, and terminated to the west by the Golgarh.

6th November.-I went to Phulvariya,' having remained a day at Patna in order to procure orders for the agents of different officers of Government. Phulvariya is a large village with many shops and a few brick houses, one of which is a respectable-looking village. About four miles from the Golgarh, I passed a tank dug by Balaichand, a merchant of Patna. It is lined with brick, but from the rude state of the bank is a very unsightly work. Phulvari was said to be four coses from Patna, but I do [not] think it can be so much as six miles. The country high and wel cultivated. Few plantations except those of Palmiras The road fully as good as the great road to Calcutta.

Phulvariya is a large close-built village inhabited chiefly by Muhammadans, among whom are several respectable families. One of them, Kazi of the Perganah, has a respectable house of brick. The others live in very large houses of mud, tiled, which on the outside at least are very slovenly. These three families keep Madrisahs, one of which is in a Mosque fronted with stone and in a very different style of architecture from any that I have seen. The roof is flat, supported by stone pillars along which large stones are laid, and these again support the flags which cover the roof. The pillars are four-sided but flat and with few or no mouldings. In place of the domes there are three cupolas over the three niches in the back wall. The structure of these very clumsy. Part of the ornaments of the gate are of a red stone said to have been brought ready carved from Dilli or Agra. The carving very neat and the stone singular.

(1) Fulwarry, R. and B.A.; Phulwari.

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