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Keswick, and its Lake.-Lodore times slept in their carriages. Ac.
Waterfall.--- Ascent of Skiddar. cordingly we were conducted to From the same, Vol. II.
our apartment, which proved to be
at the house of the barber. From Penrith to Keswick is four The barber in England is not the leagues and a half ; and as we were important personage he is in ou told there was no place where we country ; be meddles with no sur could breakfast upon the way, we gical instruments, and the few who lay in bed till a later hour than draw teeth practise exclusively would otherwise have beseemed pe- among the poor, and are considered destrians. The views were unio- as degrading the profession ;-still teresting after such scenery as we the barber is a person of importance bad lately passed, yet as we were every where. Our host was as at. returning to the mountainous coun. tentively civil as a man could be, try, they improved as we advanced. and partly out of compliment to Our road laid under one very fine him, partly from a faney to be mountaia called Saddleback, and shaved in the English fashion, I subfrom every little eminence we be. mitted my chin to him. Barbers held before us in the distance the basons it seems are as obsolete here great boundaries of the vale of Kes. as helmets, and Don Quixote mus wick. At length, after walking in this country have found some five hours, we ascended the last bill, other pretext for attacking a poor and saw the vale below us with its shaver. Instead of rubbing the soap lake and town, girt round with upon the face, he used a brush; mountains even more varied in their this mode of operating is not se outline, and more remarkably cleanly as our own, but it is more grouped than any which we had left expeditious. We find him of great behind. It was beginning to rain, use, in directing our movement and to confess the truth we derived here. He has been a sailor ; v more satisfaction from the sight of in the famous action against the the town, than from the wonders Comte de Grassc , and after having around it. Joyfully we reached been in all parts of the world, rethe int to which our trunks bad turned at last to his native place, to been directed from Ambleside, but pass the remainder of his days in our joy was in no slight degree this humbler but more gainful e. damped by the unwelcome intelli- ployment. His wife was as active gence that the house was full. Was as himself in serving us ; our there another inn ?-that was full trunks were presently brought op also; the town was crowded with the table laid, -dinner brought company :--but if we would walk from the inn ;—and though in they would endeavour to procure might have wished for a larger apart us beds. In a few minutes word ment, which was not to serve for was brought us that they had pro. bed-room as well, yet the beha cured one bed, if we had no objec. viour of these people was so unlike tion to sleep together,-and if we that of inn waiters, and had so had it seemed there was no alterna. much the appearance of real hospi. tive. We were assured for our tality, that the gratification of see comfort that strangers had some- ing it was worth some little inconvenience. The room is very neat, be seen at once ; here you are on a and bears marks of industrious fru- land-locked bason of water, a gality ;- it has a carpet composed Jeague in length, and about half as of shreds of list of different colours, broad, - you do not wish it to be and over the chimney. piece is the larger, the mirror is in perfect pro. portrait of one of the admirals un- portion to its frame. Skiddaw, the der whom our host had served. highest and most famous of the En.
It rained all night, and we werc glish mountains, forms its northern congratulated upon this, because boundary, and seems to rise almost the waterfall of Lodore, the most immediately from its shore, though amous in all this country, would it is at the nearest point half a league be in perfection. As soon as we distant, and the town intervenes. iad breakfasted a boat was ready One long mountain, along which or us, and we embarked on the the road forms a fine terrace, ake, about half a mile from the reaches nearly along the whole of own. A taste for the picturesque, if its western side ; and through the I may so far Hatter myself as to rea. space between this and the next on upon it from self observation, mountain, which in many points of liffers from a taste for the arts in view appears like the lower segment his remarkable point, -that in. of a prodigious circle, a lovely vale tead of making us fastidious, it is seen which runs up among the roduces a disposition to receive hills. But the pride of the Lake of elight, and teaches us to feel more Keswick is the head, where the ileasure in discovering beauty, than mountains of Borrowdale bound ornoiseurs enjoy in detecting a the prospect, in a wilder and grand: cult. I have oftentimes been sa. manner than words can ade. ated with works of art; a collec. quately describe. The cataract of ion of pictures fatigues me, and I Lodore thunders down its eastern ave regarded them at last rather side through a chasm in the rocks, sa task than as a pleasure. Here, which are wooded with birch and t1 the contrary, the repetition of ash trees. It is a little river, flowing ich scenes as these heightens the from a small lake upon the moun. Hjoyment of them. Every thing tains about a league distant. The rows upon me. I become daily water, though there had been heavy lore and more sensible of the rains, was not adequate to the chan. eight of the mountains, observe nel; indeed it would require a leir forms with more discri. river of considerable magnitude to inating eye, and watch with in- fill it--yet it is at once the finest eased pleasure the wonderful work and instrument of rock and langės they assume under the water that I have ever seen or heard. Pect of clouds or of sunshine. At a little public-house near where
The Lake of Keswick has this the key of the entrance is kept, they cided advantage over the others have a cannon to display the echo; hich we have seen, that it imme- it was discharged for us, and we ately appears to be what it is. heard the sound rolling round from linandermere and Ulswater might hill to hill, - but for this we pay : mistaken for great rivers, nor in. four shillings,—which are very ed can the whole extent of either gearly a peso duro. So that En.
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glish echoes appear to be the most the scene something like the unrea. expensive luxuries in which a travel. lity of a dream. It was a bright ler can indulge. It is true there evening, the sun shining, and a few was an inferior one which would white clouds hanging motionless in have cost only two shillings and six- the sky. There was not a breath pence; but when one buys an of air stirring, not a ware,-a rip. echo, who would be content for the ple or wrinkle on the lake, so that sake of saving eighteen pence, to it became like a great mirror, and put up with the second best, instead represented the shores, mountains, of ordering at once the super-extra- sky and clouds so vividly, that there double-superine?
was not the slighest appearance of We walked once more at evening water. The great mountain-opetto the Lake side. Tumediately op- ing being reversed in the shadow be posite the quay is a little island with came a huge arch, and through the a duelling house upon it. A few magnificent portal the long vale wa years ago it was hideously disfigured seen between mountains and bound. with forts and batteries, a shamed by mountain beyond mountain, church, and a new drudical temple, all this in the water, the distance and except a few fir-trees the whole perfect as in the actual scene,-the was bare,
The present ou per has single houses standing far up in the done all which a man of taste could vale, the smoke from their chimnet do in removing these deformities : -every thing the same, the shadow the church is converted into a toll. and the substance joining at their house, the forts demolished, the bases, so that it was impossible to batteries dismantled, the stones of the distinguish where the reality ended drudical temple employed in form, and the image began. As we stoot ing a bank, and the whole island on the shore, heaven and the clouds planted. There is something in this and the sun seemed lying under es ; place more like the scenes of en- we were looking down into a sit, chantment in the books of chivalry as lieavenly and as beautiful as that than like any thing in our ordinary overhead, and the range of mouse world,-a building the exterior of tains, having one line of summit us. which promised all the conveniences der our feet and another above a and elegancies of life, surrounded were suspended between two fina: with all ornamental trees, in a little ments. island the whole of which is one garden, and that in this lovely lake, This morning we inquired : girt round on every side with these anxiously about the weather as awful mountains. Immediately be. we had been on shipboard, for ebei hind it is the long dark western destined business of the day was to mountain called Brandelow : the ascend the great Skiddaw. Aftet contrast between this and the island suffering hopes and fears, as $028 which seemed to be the palace and shine or cloud seemed to predot: garden of the lady of the lake, pro. nate, off we set with a boy to guida duced the same sort of pleasure that us. The foot of the mountain her a tale of enchantment excites, and we about a mile from the town ; there beheld it under circumstances which way for the first stage is along ? heightened its wonders, and gave green path of gradual and uninte.
rupted ascent, on the side of a green so few conld possibly see, and of declivity. At the northern end of those few in all human probability the vale there is another lake called pone would recognise,- yet we fol. Bassenthwaite closed in like a lowed the example of our predewedge between two mountains, and cessors. There are three such seats bonnding the view ; the vale with upon the three points of the mounboth its lakes opened upon us as we tain ; all which we visited. It is ascended. The second stage was oftentimes piercingly coll here, infinitely more laborious, being so when the weather is temperate in steep, though still perfectly safe, the vale. This inconvenience we that we were many times forced to did not perceive, for the wind was halt for breath, and so long that in the south, but it brought on before we had completed it the
we were descending, and first ascent seemed almost levelled thoroughly wetted us before we with the vale. Having conquered reached home. this, the summit appeared before us, After dinner, as the rain still conbut an intervening plain, about a tinued, and we could not go further mile across, formed the third stage from home, we went to see of the journey ; this was easy tra. exhibition of pictures of the lakes, velling over turf and moss. The a few doors distant. There were last part was a ruder ascent over several views of one called Was. loose stones with gray moss growing water, which is so little visited that between them, on the immediate our book of directions is silent con. summit there is no vegetation, we cerning it. It seemed to us how. sat down on a rude seat formed by ever to be of so striking a charac2 pile of the stones, and enjoyed a ter, and so different from all which boundless prospect, that is, one we have yet seen, that we consult. which extended as far as the reach ed with our host concerning the of the human eye, but the distance distance and the best mode of getwas dim and indistinct. We saw ting there, and have accordingly the sea through a hazy atmosphere, planned a route which is to include ind the smoke of some towns upon it, and which we shall commence to. the coast about six leagues off, when morrow. we were directed where to look for The people here wear shoes with them : the Scotch mountains ap
wooden soles. D., who had never peared beyond like clouds, and seen any thing of the kind before, the Isle of Man, we were told, was inclined to infer from this that would have been visible had the the inhabitants were behind the rest weather been clearer. The home of England in improvement; till cene of mountains was more im- I asked him whether in a country pressive, and in particular the so subject to rain as by experience ake of Bassenthwaite lying under we knew this to be, a custom precipice beneath us. .They who
They who which kept the feet dry ought not risit the summit usually scratch to be imputed to experience of heir names upon one of the loose its utility rather than to ignorance ; tones which form the back to this and if, instead of their following rade seat. We felt how natural the fashions of the south of England, und how vain it was to leave be. the other peasantry would not do rind us these rude memorials, which wisely in imitating them.
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ODE for the New YEAR, 1806.
By HENRY JAMES Pye, Esq. Poet. Laureat.
HEN ardent zeal for virtuous fame,
When virtuous honour's holy flame,
His deeds of valour to record ;
Far above her high career,
And to the lay-epraptur'd ear
For though the Muse in all onequal strain
Sung of the wreaths that Albion's warriors bore
Triumphs by many a valiant son
Or where Canopus? billows lave
Alluding to a poem called Naucratia, written by the author, and dedicated by perinission to his majesty,