very fine altar-piece. The keeper of the sacristy, who is a very arch-looking little fellow, in spite of the solemnity of the place in which we were, made us all smile (even a young lady who was going to be confessed for the first time the next day, lost a considerable proportion of her gravity) by informing us, that during the time of terror he had run off with the Virgin Mary, pointing at the same time to the image, and that to prevent the detection of Robespierre's agents, he had concealed her in his bed for three years. Nothing could exceed his joy in having saved her from the hatchet or the flames, from which impending fate she was restored to her former situation in this church; and was, when we saw her, by the extravagance of her sprightly and ardent protector, dressed in a white muslin gown, spotted with silver; a little bouquet of artificial flowers graced her bosom, and her wig was finely curled and powdered. The figure in her arms, which was intended to represent the infant Jesus, was dressed in a style equally unsuitable; his hair was also curled and powdered, and a small cocked hat placed upon his head. Our delighted guide, whose eyes sparkled with self-complacency, asked us if we had ever seen a prettier Virgin Mary, or one dressed more handsomely. We were all much amused by the quaintness of this man's conduct, although I am confident he had no intention of exciting unbecoming sensations, for in saving this image he had exposed his life.

From Notre Dame, we went to the Abbaye aux Hommes, built by William the Conqueror.. It is a large lofty plain pile of building. The spires are well proportioned, and very high. The pillars in the choir are, in my humble opinion, too massy. Preparations were here making for the celebration of the great festival called the Feast of God. We presented to one of the priests, who, in the sacristy, was adorning the cradle of our Saviour's image with flowers, some very fine moss roses, which in France are very rare,

which he received with great politeness. This festival before the Revolution was always superbly celebrated. It was then renewed for the first time since the proscription of religion, during which all the costly habits of the priests, and rich vessels used in the ceremonies of the church have been stolen, sold, or melted down. Near the altar, which has been shattered by the axe or the Revolution, is the vault of William the Conqueror.

After spending the short time during which I was detained at Caen very pleasantly, I resumed my seat in the diligence for Cherbourg. After we left Caen the roads became very bad; our ponderous machine frequently rolled from one side to the other, and, with many alarming creakings, threatened us with a heavy and perilous overthrow. At length we arrived at Bayeux, where we dined at the house of a friend of my fair fellow-traveller, to which she invited me with a tone of welcome and good wishes which overpowered all resistance. We sat down to an excellent dinner, at which was produced the usual French dish of cold turbot and raw artichokes. After our repast, a fine young woman, the daughter of the lady of the house, in a very obliging, but rather grave manner, poured out a tumbler full of some delicious potent liqueur, which, to my no small surprise, she presented me with; upon my only tasting it, and returning it, she appeared to be equally surprised and confused. Her mother, observing our mutual embarrassment, informed me, that in France it was understood that the English were troubled with the ennui, or tristesse de cœur, and that they drank large draughts of wine and spirits to expel the gloomy malady. I softened this opinion of our common character as well as I could; for, I fear, without offering considerable outrage to truth, I could not wholly have denied it.

After dinner we walked to the cathedral, which is a noble gothic pile, and upon our return found the diligence in waiting for us. My companions were

attended to the door of the carriage by their hospitable friends, between whom several kisses were interchanged. I took an opportunity, just before I mounted the step, of stealing one of these tokens of regard from the fair young damsel who had so courteously offered me the liqueur, at the same time telling her, that in England a kiss was always considered as the best remedy for the tristesse de cœur, Our little Norman steeds trotted in good style; and, notwithstanding they had come all the way from Caen, they soon carried us over the hills on the other side of Bayeux. The eye communicated delight to the heart whilst it contemplated the vast extent of corn fields which, in this fertile province, undulated on all sides of us in waves of yellow exuberance, over which, embosomed in trees, at short distances, peeped the peaceful and picturesque abode of the prosperous cottage farmer. The prospect afforded an impressive contrast to the impolitic agricultural system which has lately obtained in England, by which cottage farms are consolidated into ample domains of monopoly, and a baneful preference is given in favour of the rearing of cattle, to the vital and bountiful labours of the plough, A celebrated writer, who well knew in what the real wealth of a nation consisted, has observed, that he who could make two ears of corn grow upon a spot of ground where one grew before, would deserve better of mankind than the whole race of politicians. The high roads of Normandy are unnecessarily broad; hence considerable portions of land remain uncultivated. A spacious road, like every thing which is vast, excites an impression of grandeur; but, in this prolific department, the facilities of travelling, and the dignity of the country, might be consulted with less waste. This prodigality is perhaps attributable to the highways in France having shared but little of its legislative attention: and accommodation appears to have been sought rather by a lavish allotment of space,

than by a judicious formation and frequent repair.*

The inns along the road are very poor, although over the door of almost every little cottage is written, in large characters, "Bon Cidre de Victoire." There are also no regular post-horses to be met with. The country, on all sides of us, was very mountainous and luxuriant, and much resembled the southern parts of Devonshire. About seven o'clock in the evening of the same day, we arrived at St. Lo, which is, without exception, the cleanest and most charming romantic little town I saw in France. It is fortified, and stands upon the top of a mountain, at whose basé is expanded a luxuriant scenery of woods and villages, through which the riviere de Ville winds in beautiful meanders. The inhabitants of this town appeared to be rich and genteel. In the evening I supped at the table d'hôte, where there were several pleasant people. At this town we slept, and set off the next morning very early for Valogne, where we dined; and in the evening, after passing a considerable extent of rich meadow land, and descending a very steep hill, the freshness of the sea air announced to us our near approach to Cherbourg, where, at the hotel d'Angleterre, I was soon afterwards landed. For my

place and luggage to this place I paid twenty-four livres, and my expences upon the road were very reasonable.

Cherbourg is a poor and dirty town. After having heard so much of its costly works and fortifications for the protection of its harbour, my surprize was not little upon finding the place so miserable. It is defended by three great forts, which are erected upon rocks in the sea. The centre one is about three miles off from shore, and is garrisoned by 1200 men. At

* Since the above was first written the French have repaired and improved their roads, so as to render travelling in France almost unrivalled.

a distance this fort looks like a vast floating battery. Upon a line with it, but divided by a distance suffi. cient for the admission of shipping, commences the celebrated stupendous wall, which has been erected since the failure of the cones. It is just visible at low water. This surprising work is six miles in length, and proportionably broad, and is composed of massy stones and masonry, which have been sunk for the purpose, and which are now cemented by sea weed, their own weight, and cohesion, into one immense mass of rock. Upon this wall a chain of forts is intended to be erected, as soon as the finances of government will admit of it. The expences which have already been incurred in constructing this wonderful fabric, have, it is said, exceeded two millions ster ling. These costly protective barriers can only be considered as so many monuments, erected by the French, to the genius and prowess of the British

navy.

Whilst I was waiting for the packet's sailing I received great civilities from Monsieur C, the banker and American consul at Cherbourg, to whom I had letters from Monsieur R. I rode the se cond evening after my arrival, to his country-house, which was about nine miles from the town. Our road to it lay over a prolific and mountainous country. From a high point of land, as we passed along, we saw the islands of Guernsey, Jersey, and Alderney, which made a beautiful appearance upon the sea, Upon our return, by another road, I was much pleased with a group of little cottages, which were embosomed in a beautiful wood, through which there was an opening to the sea, which the sinking sun had then overspread with the richest lustre.

The cross roads of France are very bad; but, to my surprize, although we never could have had a worse specimen of them than what this excursion presented to us, yet the Norman hunter upon which I was mounted carried me over the deepest ruts and