Spite of his youth, Guy was soon chosen chief of these bandits, and with them he repaired to Douarnenez. Jacques Guengat had taken possession of the town in the name of the King, but Guy Eder retook it for the League in 1595, and demolished its houses to fortify what had once been a priory in the Île Tristan. For five years Fontenelle held possession of this fortress, even against repeated assaults from the garrison of Brest, from hence he harried and plundered all the surrounding country, and it was to the Isle Tristan that he brought the plunder of the ruined town of Penmarc'h. He seems to have lived here with his band of ruffianly soldiers, and to have pounced like a bird of prey unexpectedly on the neighbouring towns and villages, bringing ruin wherever he came. He escaped punishment

at the general amnesty proclaimed by Henry IV. on his accession, but was afterwards arrested and tried for his brutality towards the wife of the governor of Pont Croix. He was condemned to be broken alive on the wheel in 1602.

This Bay of Douarnenez seems to yield every imaginable fish, and the size of the town has greatly increased by the incoming of country-folk to share the profits of its fishery. During the sardine season-that is, between June and December-it is supposed that upwards of four millions of these little fish are taken daily. The fishing and salting of sardines seems to constitute the sole trade of the inhabitants. If the bathing were more accessible Douarnenez would soon become a favourite seaside resort; but fortunately the bathing-place is nearly two miles away from the town, and there is no means of access except on foot, so that, for a time at least, the quiet loveliness of this Eden will be left undisturbed.

STE. ANNE LA PALUE.

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There are two churches, neither of them remarkable; but Ploaré is close by, and its church is well worth a visit. The spire is very elegant, older than much of the rest, and the western doorway, like those of St. Nonna and St. Guénolé at Penmarc'h, has carvings of ships and also of fish; the mesgoul, a huge cormorant, is represented pouncing on sardines below. Near Poullan, about four miles from Douarnenez, is the manor-house of Kervénargan, the hospitable home which Cambry designates by the name K., and which, in 1793, sheltered Barbaroux, Pétion, and several others of the proscribed Girondins, when to shelter them was to risk the loss of life and property.

Except in the sardine season it is possible to visit Crozon by boat from Douarnenez, and one enjoys on this journey a delightful view of the coast. But the carriage drive by way of Plonévez or Locronan is also very delightful, though it is a long one of about twenty-five miles. We pass Ploaré and Le Riz. In the villages of Le Riz and of Plomarc'h are the Roman foundation stones said to be relics of the palace of King Marc'h, or Mark, the nephew of Arthur, and the husband of Iseulte. Near this is a rock called Garrec, on which is said to be the mark of a horse-shoe-that of the horse of King Gradlon when he escaped from the drowning of Is.

The road climbs up steeply to reach Plonévez-Porzay, and we make a détour here of about two miles towards the sea, to the celebrated chapel of Ste. Anne la Palue, the scene of the greatest of all the Pardons of Brittany. There are various times through the year when pilgrimage is made specially to this chapel, but on the last Sunday of August and its preceding Saturday is the great spectacle of the year. Monsieur Saläun, the intelligent bookseller of Quimper,

gave us a most vivid account of the procession. He told us it would be worth while to come back from any distance to witness it, and he advised us to stay at Chateaulin, and to make our way over from that town to the festival, as Douarnenez was always overcrowded. The chapel is not remarkable, but the granite statue of St. Anne is said to date from the middle of the sixteenth century.

Looking at the vast and lonely downs on all sides of the chapel, and picturing them covered with the brilliant groups described by M. Saläun, backed by the lovely Bay of Douarnenez, it is easy to conjure up a splendid scene. So great is the concourse of strangers, that more than a hundred tents are often erected for the reception of the pilgrims who cannot find lodging. On the Saturday evening there is a procession of penitents, some only clad in their shirts, some barefooted, to the chapel, where they receive absolution. Through the night many of them may be seen praying around the chapel.

But it is on the Sunday after high mass that the grand procession takes place. From far over the downs the ten thousand pilgrims, in every possible variety of holiday costume—for a priest we met at the table d'hôte at Douarnenez assured us the pilgrims arrive from every part of France— come bareheaded and singing hymns in honour of the saint. Among them the image of the Blessed Virgin is borne by a band of young girls dressed in white. Close behind this comes the statue of St. Anne, borne by matrons in scarlet dresses bordered and fringed with gold. Next come the relics of the saint borne by two deacons in cloth of gold, and after these a large body of richly habited priests; for the Pardon of St. Anne la Palue attracts priests as well as

mere pilgrims, from far as well as from all the neighbouring towns. It must be a sight unique of its kind, for such a ceremony in such a scene is a poem in itself.

Next we come to Ploeven, and after this the road runs along the cliffs. Near St. Nic it is a barren waste with many Druidic stones. The road here ascends considerably. About eight miles farther

Near Telgruc there is a dolmen. on is Crozon. There is in the church here a curious representation of the martyrdom of St. Maurice and of the Theban legion. Some of the bones of these martyrs are said to be contained in a large reliquary.

There is so much to be seen at Crozon that one wants some days there to explore the coast. First there are the curious grottoes of the cliffs, near the Anse de Morgat; and a very remarkable road through the rocks, called Begar-Gadoc, said to have been created in miraculous answer to some shipwrecked fisherman who implored the help of St. Marine. There is also a tunnel pierced through the cliff, of which we did not hear the legend. It is called "la Cheminée du Diable." The Grotte de l'Autel must be visited at high tide in a boat; the entrance is very low, but inside the roof becomes lofty, and the grotto is very spacious. In the centre is a flat rock, which the boatmen call the altar.

Beyond Morgat are some stone avenues called "the Lines of Kercolleoch." There is also a tumulus in this region called Tombeau d'Artus.

Following the coast we come to the lofty Pointe de la Chèvre. Here is a grotto called Gués Charivari, the haunt of innumerable sea-birds, which fill the lonely spot with wild harsh cries when some unusual sound breaks the mournful loneliness of the place. There is a remarkable echo here.

The rocks near the Anse de Dinant are most fantastic and rugged. One of them, pierced with two arches, is called Château de Dinant. From here to the Pointe de Toulinguet, just beyond Camaret, the coast has an indescribably wild charm. It is said to be a place of terrible shipwrecks, and indeed the sea breaks against it with overwhelming fury, especially over a line of rocks dotted out into the sea, called the Tas de Pois. Toulinguet has been fortified, and so has Camaret; but one would think the angry sea and the cruel jagged line of rocks were sufficient defence. The view from the point is marvellous, and commands Ouessant and the surrounding islands, as well as the Pointe St. Matthieu and the terrible rocks to the south which we have seen so often. All the men on this coast seem to be fishers, and while the sardine season lasts they are always at work. It is possible to stay at Camaret as well as at Crozon.

We were very sorry to leave Douarnenez and its charming surroundings. It is a place where one could spend many months without exhausting the variety of its scenery or tiring of its beauties; for much that is most interesting in Finistère is within easy reach of the lovely little town. In spring-time, before the sardine fishery and its unpleasant accompaniments begin, Douarnenez must be one of the most enjoyable spots on earth.

It takes rather longer to go to Chateaulin by Locronan than by Plonévez, but it is a much more varied route, and is after all not more than seventeen miles.

The first part of the road takes us by Ploaré to Kerlas, where there is a rather curious church. After this the country becomes hilly, and there is a very steep hill close to Locronan.