yet finished. Church.

Near this is a church called the Trone

On Monday 20th, we waited on the Archbishop of Glasgow, who lives at the castle near the Cathedral. His name is Burnet: he is a comely, courteous gentleman, about sixty years old. He likewise craved a blessing before we drunk

with him.

Tuesday 21st, we rode up the river Clyde, a most pleasant stream. Eight miles above Glasgow is Hamilton, a pleasant place, where is the palace of the Duke Hamilton.2 We waited on him, and he ordered his gentleman to show us his yards. Here is a great plot of ground for gardens, &c., not yet finished; but the design promises a good product. He was going to his Park with some company, and gave us a slender invitation and left us. Now another of our company fell off, and was for England again: that we might not be penurious of our tears at parting, we drunk liberally to fill the cisterns. We set him a mile on his way further than the town, as the park gate (the park wall is seven miles round), and we drunk at a little ale-house, where two or three fellows were so rude with us, that one of them got a lash with a whip, whereupon they all took a part, and one of them fetched a long gun and threatened us with it. It was not discretion to stay here, so we shook hands with our going friend, and gave him a bon voiagio; and so we returned again to Glasgow.

Wednesday 22nd, we left it, one of the regents of the College accompanying us; we rode over the hills sixteen miles, to Erwin, a little town upon the sea.

He was

1 Alexander Burnet, created Archbishop of Glasgow in 1664. known by the nickname of Longifacies or Long Nez. Deposed by the Earl of Lauderdale in 1669, he was again restored to his office in 1674.

2 William Douglas, third Duke of Hamilton, well known in the political history of the time. He was among the first to declare himself for William III. 3 Irvine.

to be

In this church my Lady Eglinton lay ready to interred.

On Thursday the 23rd, we rode three miles to the Anghaws,1 my Lord Coughran's house. We waited on him and my Lord Montgomery, who married his daughter. We dined there, and from thence rode six miles to a pretty town, called Ayre; and though it was late, we ventured ten miles further, to a place called Turnbery. A poor house we came to, and they would scarce show us a room; at length, out came the good man, and told us, as soon as they had taken the geese out of the room, we should be admitted into it; when we came into it, it was full of feathers: but now we inquired for meat, but we could neither get eggs, wine, brandy, milk, or spring water, but only oat bread, and some muddy ale this we thought hard, but the good wife started us yet more, and told us that her two sons should lie in the room with us; we shuffled them off, and patiently expected the morning, whereon we proceeded on the 24th on our journey. About six leagues from the shore is a high rock in the sea, much like the Basse, but it is twice as large; hereon build many Soland geese, and plenty of other seafowls; the name of it is Ailzalle. Fourteen miles from Turnbery, we passed through Balentray,5 a small town, and, fourteen miles further, to Chapell, a small town.

Saturday 25th, morning, we went four miles further to

1 Auchans, in the parish of Dundonald. The "Lord Coughran" was Sir William Cochrane, Knight, of Cowdon, elevated to the peerage in 1647 as Baron Cochrane of Dundonald, and advanced in 1669 to the Earldom of Dundonald.-Burke.

2 Alexander, 9th Earl of Eglinton, married Margaret, daughter of William, Lord Cochrane.

3 Turnberry Castle, so well known in Scottish History, belonged to Bruce as Earl of Carrick.

4 Ailsa Craig.

5 Ballantrae.

"Stranraer. A chapel, dedicated to St John, gave rise to the name of The Chapel.

Port Patrick, in hopes to have had a passage for Ireland, but either the winds, or the men's greedy desires, prevented it; we returned again that night to Chapell, and early on Monday 27th, to Port Patrick again, where we waited all the day to no purpose; and all

This

Tuesday 28th was spent in the same employment. afternoon we went by water, to see the ruins of an old castle upon a rock in the sea,1 not far from Port Patrick. Under this house, in the rock, is a cave, which, they say, goes a considerable distance under ground, but we had not opportunity to search into it.

On Tuesday 28th, night, the wind offering something fair, we bid adieu to Scotland at nine at night, till nine at a new nevermass noon; we intended to have landed at Donough Adee, but we were driven down as low as the Lough Naerne,2 where we landed on Wednesday, the 29th of August, 1677.

1

1 Dunskey Castle, built in 1510 by Adair of Kilhilt on the site of a former stronghold.

2 Probably a misprint for Loch Larne.

SEPT

DIARY OF RALPH THORESBY.

A.D. 1681.

(EPT. 10.-Over the Moors to Belford, thence over the Sands, where we had a fair prospect of Holy Island, to Berwick, where we got well, and in time to view the town, which is ancient and ill-built, but stands very commodiously and is well fortified.

11. Die Dom. Being at church too early, was transcribing some monuments, which was the first place I observed the Scotch mode for Aldermen and persons of some rank to be buried in the churchyard. The church was built 1652, Colonel Fenwick, then Governor, being a chief instrument (in memory of whom there is an inscription in the church, of which see p. 125 of my Collections), by procuring monies owing to the town for soldiers' pay; it has no steeple, the old one in the midst of the town serving: the minister was on the different sorts of sorrow, the benefits of the godly, and the disadvantage of the carnal; was to visit Mr Windlows, and after walked round the walls.

12. Morning, from Berwick over the Moors, where we found the proverb verified, that a Scotch mist, for I cannot say it rained, wets the Englishman to the skin, to Hayton,2 a country town, seated upon the river Hay, the mouth

1 Colonel George Fenwick of Brinkburn was made Governor of Berwick in 1649. Among other services to the town, he obtained £514 from the Treasury for the building of Trinity Church.-Scott, History of Berwick, p. 211.

2 Ayton, on the Eye Water.

2

whereof is not far distant from St Abb's Head; then near Coldingham Abbey, the nuns whereof cut off their noses to preserve their chastity from the insulting Danes;1 leaving on the right hand Dunglass, the lordship whereof belonged to the famous soldier, Patrick Ruthen; thence to Dunbar seated on the sea, an eminent town, built after the Scottish manner; most tombs (of which Stephanides is of most note) 3 of persons of good rank are without the church, only in an aisle adjoining to it there is a stately monument for George Hume (a numerous family in these parts, most of the castles, lands, and houses we past by being of that name), Earl of Dunbar, and Lord High Treasurer of Scotland. Here I was, with three more, dubbed Knight of the Bass, a little island near the town, rising up all on a solid rock, where is a prison, that of late has been stocked with Nonconformists: here, I must confess, I was too impatient at the Scotch victuals, not able to eat anything, though we had the bailiff's (or alder

4

1 As told by Roger de Wendover, this story is as follows: Inguar and Hubba, two Danish chieftains, in their passage (870) to East Anglia to avenge the death of their father Ragnor, were driven ashore near Coldingham. When Ebba, the superior of the nunnery, heard of their approach, she knew what would follow. Summoning her nuns to her presence, she cut off her nose and slit her upper lip with a razor. The nuns followed her example, and the mutilation had the desired result.—Flowers of History, i. pp. 191-2 (Bohn's Translation).

2 Patrick Ruthven, son of Sir William Ruthven of Ballindean, and grandson of William Ruthven, son of the first Lord Ruthven. He served with distinction under Gustavus Adolphus, and on his return to Scotland was made Governor of Edinburgh Castle and raised to the title of Earl of Forth. In the Civil War he also distinguished himself as a Commander on the Royalist side, and was made Earl of Brentford, a place where he won a victory over the Parliamentary forces, Clarendon, who disliked him, says that "in the field he well knew what was to be done."-Burke's Extinct Peerage.

The Tomb to which Thoresby refers is that of Andrew Stephenson, who according to his epitaph was thirty years a Professor of Philology and Philosophy in the College of Edinburgh, and afterwards minister at Dunbar. According to the same authority he was born in 1588, and died in 1664.

4 I am informed by the Rev. Mr Agnew of Dunbar that there was a Masonic Club, known as the Knights of the Bass, founded in Dunbar in 1722. Possibly it may have taken its name from some earlier society, such as that to which Thoresby refers.