will imitate this glowing language. So much for this.

I was done by the omnibus driver, who took me, I am sure, by the provision of the hotel people, to the river side at 7 o'clock. He got between me and my luggage, and boldly demanded four dollars for about a mile. It was just before the boat was starting for Oakland. In vain I told him I had only paid one and a half the day before for going 6 or 7 miles to the races. He kept dodging between me and the luggage, and I saw I was going to be left behind, so there was nothing for it but to pay. Rascal. My friend, Mr. MacCaul, was a little way off, and heard it all; and when I asked him why he did not interfere, told me that it was as much as his life was worth. May those dollars, or rather the drink arising from them, " capture," that is to say, intoxicate that "busman."

CHAPTER XIX.

FERRY-SAN JOSE-SACRAMENTO-SIERRA NEVADA.

WE ferried across the bay, and then got on the train, hurried by the San Jose junction, which I was told I ought to have gone to see, and finally arrived at Sacramento, breakfasting en route at Lathrop. Sacramento is a fine place, and as we stopped there twenty-five minutes I saw the Capitol, and as much else of "J" Street, and "H" as I could in the time.

At "Colfax" we dined, and had a bad dinner. By-the-bye, at "Lathrop" a fine grizzly "bar" was on the platform, caged and very tame. We then began ascending the "Sierra Nevada," and this was a beautiful scene.

First there was the golden sunset, tipping the boughs of the "excelsa" and "insignis" pines till they showed a real glory. We went up a very heavy incline, the engine stopping for breath about every mile. I went into my sleeping berth about

eight, and half slept till we reached the summit at ten. By that time the bright moon was up, and all the gold of sunset was changed to silver. I don't think I ever saw such a splendid sight. But it was a little too frightful for a fellow with a head which abjures heights. I had taken the precaution of not looking out much, so as to avoid this. At last curiosity and the bright moonlight tempted me to look out. Inside the wheels, I saw a bright light some three thousand feet below. The permanent way had fallen out, and we were going over the unsupported rail! and the light was the moon upon the cliff. Some way further on, we broke an axle ! If it had occurred at this point what trouble it would have saved in correcting the press!

We passed various gold digging camps in the night, aud a cascade, which was silvered up by the moonlight. It is an extraordinary engineering work. We completely described a circle round one mountain they call "Cape Horn.” Cape Horn." But as far as I could judge there was little or no real risk. It was seven thousand feet high at the summit, but they went slowly round the sharp curves, and seemed to me to take every possible precaution. The descent really was nothing, and when I had sufficiently viewed "the fair Sierra aright,” I went to sleep as comfortably as possible, only thanking

God heartily that I was at the bottom in a whole

skin.

We then careered on to "Humboldt" to breakfast, and then travelled along the course of a river of that name, through a desert country covered with sage brush," and so dusty that I did nothing but clear my throat with ice water. On to "Carlen " for "supper" as they call it, at three o'clock.

I slept well through the desert this night, and at seven we arrived at Ogden, the junction of the "Utah or Salt Lake City line." I determined not to breakfast there, and that I would have it when I got to Utah, as it was only forty miles. It was a ride perfectly well worth doing, for although to within twenty miles of Utah it was desert on both sides, still there was the Salt Lake all the way on one side, and the Gold Mountains on both.

There was about as much snow as you see on "Ben Nevis" the 10th of October, but they must be very good hills when covered. They are about a hundred feet higher than those at the top of Loch Lomond.

On this trip I fell in with a very pleasant fellow, owner of eighty horses which he had brought from Kentucky, two thousand miles off, to sell here. He brought them by train here, having driven them through the State of Illinois and then on by the train.

Now this good fellow was just an instance of the education of these parts. There is no distinction of classes on Brigham Young's line, which was made by himself, so he came in and sat by my side, and we talked all the way. He was attired in a blue old camlet suit, and a broad brimmed hat. In England he would have had a jacket and sleeves, and a pair of drab-coloured inexpressibles, and a volume of slang and a piece of straw in his mouth. We shook hands most heartily at parting.

I then chartered an omnibus to the "Walker House," the best hotel, where I found the Duke of Manchester and his son had been a few days before. There were no Englishmen in the hotel then, at least no travelling Englishmen. Fargo and Wells, the bankers, kindly gave me some money, for "London and Westminster" notes, though they had no correspondence with them. This somewhat appeased my internal longings, for we had arrived at eleven, and I had not breakfasted at Ogden; when to my surprise I found that in asking for breakfast I must wait till half-past twelve for lunch, breakfast hour having terminated. So I went up to Brigham Young's house, whom I found gone out for a drive, but his secretary was very polite. Some ladies, who may have been wives to this gentlemen, who, like Priam, is said to have a hundred, were walking about, but none whom I felt at all inclined