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"While thus engaged in a lively and instructive dialogue, a patient was introduced, to all appearance, un homme du pays. Dr. Giggart, after a slight gutten tag,' beckoned him to wait in the room-the only one at his disposal besides the bed-chamber-the door of which, being wide open and opposite to us, exhibited its slender furniture, and all other utensils, including a huge plate-glass electrical machine.

"In bowing to the new visiter, my worthy confrère made a slight movement of his knees, which showed that the most essential part of his garment had been left in the sleeping room. But the weather was intolerably hot, and no doubt the doctor fancied he could not be too lightly clad. My discovery, however, seemed to disconcert him a little; and as the patient, who had listened for a few minutes to our dialogue, appeared to grow impatient, I deemed it prudent to take my leave, not without expressing how thankful I felt for the information he had afforded me. I met Dr. Giggart out in the course of the day, so smart, so brushed up, and so dashing, that I scarcely recognised him again. He looked in fact as if he might be a pet physician."

Baden, it appears, is a cheap place of amusement.

"My readers will be able to form an idea of the very reasonable terms on which a gay life may be led at Baden, from the few particulars I have just given, and which may prove useful. But in order that my information on this head may be more complete, I will detail the several prices at which necessaries and comforts are to be had during and after the season at Baden. I preface my statement by reminding my readers that three kreutzers are equal to an English penny, and that sixty kreutzers make a florin. A bachelor, then, may procure an excellent bed-room in one of the principal hotels, for a florin-and-a-half, or two at most. With a sitting-room the charge is from three to four florins; but there are inferior apartments which may be had for forty-eight kreutzers, or sixteen pence a-day. A déjeuner Anglais is thirteen pence; a déjeuner simple, with coffee and bread and butter only, twenty-four kreutzers, or eight-pence. The early dinner at the table-d'hôte is one florin, and four-pence more for half-abottle of Turbachen, vin du pays. At four o'clock the table-d'hôte dinner is three francs, (2s. 6d.,) with wine, and without it one florin and twelve kreutzers, or two shillings. Tea or coffee in the evening with brioches, half-a-florin, or ten-pence. At the Great Chabert Rooms, everything is one-fourth dearer. A single night's lodging may always be had for forty-eight kreutzers, or sixteen pence, during the season, at an inn, and for one shilling and eight-pence in a private lodging-house."

These expenses are one-half less during the winter.

From Baden the doctor proceeds to Wildbad. This town stands amid the wilds of the Black Forest, on the eastern side of one of the numerous ranges of hills which form one of the imposing features of that country. The road by the Mourg he recommends as the best, but he complains of the impositions and lazy pace of the postilions. Wildbad is far from being a considerable wateringplace, but the doctor lauds the efficacy of its waters, and the accommodations of its bathing, in equally unmeasured terms.

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"Greatly as nature has favoured this spot, where a spring of health lay concealed for centuries, the hand of man has done but little yet, to embellish it with all those accessaries which the polished and fastidious visiters of watering-places are now accustomed to look for and expect. Once fairly landed at the bottom of the valley, which stands at 1,323 feet above the sea-level, the approach to the bath is through a long and narrow street, the first part of which consists of miserable-looking houses. These are inhabited by humble and poor families, who must often feel astounded at the display of glittering luxury, and fine equipages, and cavalcades, which, during three months in the year, pass to and fro before them like dazzling meteors. At this end of the street the King's Platz is situated; and this, with the Conversation Saloon, the two principal hotels, (the Bear and the King of Würtemberg,) the promenades, the Bad-hof, and the Maison des Pauvres, or Catherine Asylum, form the whole of the fashionable part of this Spa. The vignette at the head of the present chapter presents all these various objects, as they are seen after passing through an arch, which divides the lower from the upper part of the long and single street of which this minor town or village consists."

"The Bad-hof, which forms the end of this Platz-where the drinking spring of mineral water before mentioned is situated-is a low building, irregularly divided in its interior into chambers, erected over the several sources of hot water which rise out of granitic rocks. This is collected, with its clean sand deposits, into square or oblong areas, of various dimensions, confined by wooden partitions, which do not rise to the height of the vaulted roof over them, and form bath-chambers, with fourteen or eighteen inches depth of water in them, at a natural temperature, varying from 23 to 30 degs. of Reaumur, or from 84 to 100 degs, of Fahrenheit, in different baths, In these the bather sits, or rather lies down, with the back of his head to the rock-where a board has been fixed for that purpose; and in each of them there may be from four to six or more such places, which are generally occupied at the same time. There are also single divisions or closets, perfectly secluded from the rest, where only one person at a time can bathe.

"One of the basins, into which the hottest spring (the Hölle) is received, and which consists of two divisions, the Herren-bad and the Bürger-bad, has an area of 1,064 square feet, and is covered with a gothic chapel-like building. In the first division twenty-two, and in the second fifteen bathers may be accommodated, together. There are, besides, nine closets, each for one bather-five of them appropriated to men, and the rest to women. A niche was pointed out to me in one of the sides of the first division of this basin, which penetrates deep into the rock, whence the principal spring of Wildbad emerges. On plunging the arm into the cleft whence the spring flows, its force and temperature may be at once ascertained. The heat in this place is just 100 degs., and sufficient steam may be collected from this aperture by pipes, to form, in convenient apartments, a vapour bath. There are adjoining to this basin and another, called the Fürsten-bad or Prince's baths, neat closets or dressing-rooms, and contrivances for administering the douche and shower-bath. The Frauenbad, or ladies' bath, has the same convenience. The temperature of both is 97 degs. or perhaps a little more. The Fürstenbad has an area


3 of 216 square feet, the Frauenbad one of 405. A fourth basin, of 420 square feet of surface, is divided into four compartments, two for each sex, at a temperature of only 88 or 90 degrees, which is very suitable and beneficial to many for whom the higher grades of heat would be injurious. As is the case at all the German Spas, the lower classes have been taken care of in Wildbad: a fifth bath-room, capable of accommodating ten persons of each sex, has been destined for their sole use."

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The Wildbad water has neither taste nor smell-it is colourless, transparent, and brilliant. Its temperature has continued the same through a long succession of years.

"The best period of the year for using the Wildbad baths is in June, July, and August; and the fittest time of day for bathing, in those months, is from five to nine o'clock in the morning. Breakfast may be taken a quarter of an hour after the bath. Where the water is drunk at the same time, that which has a temperature of twenty-six and a-half degrees of Reaumur should be preferred; and the quantity used may be from eight to twelve glasses, of four ounces each. A large quantity of the Wildbad water may be drunk without any disagreeable effect. The water should be taken fasting; and the principal bath-physicians are of opinion that the water should be drunk first at five in the morning, and followed by a light breakfast some time after which the patient may bathe."

Let us turn from the perpetually recurring jargon of springs, minerals, and diseases, and contemplate the doctor in his capacity of gastronome.


The hotel at which I lived while at Stuttgardt, and with the master of which, as well as with its accommodation, I have every reason to be satisfied, might very well be made a sort of head-quarters of this kind, for an invalid desirous to enjoy the benefit of the Cannstadt waters. At this hotel, (the König von Würtemberg,) situated at the confluence of four of the principal streets, (having, on the day of my return from Wildbad, missed the usual hour of the great table-d'hôte, which begins at one o'clock,) a private dinner for one florin and twelve kreutzers (2s.) was served up in about an hour, which will give an idea of the cheapness of living at Stuttgardt, where so much, and that so good, can be obtained at an inn, for so little money. Imprimis, a basin of excellent soup, consisting of a good bouillon de bœuf, into which some baked flour resembling semolina, and a couple of eggs, had been mixed, beat up, and boiled. Next came four cotelettes pannées, with two attendant vegetable-dishes, the one bearing dressed French beans, the other some cartoffel en chemise. A trout followed, which in its turn made way for a plump perdrix au lard, having on one side, a bowl of salad dressed in the Italian fashion, and a dish of langue salée on the other. A third course appeared next, with some poires étuvées dans leur jus et au vin, and a capital omelette soufflée. Four sorts of biscuits and compótes, with fresh plums and pears, constituted the dessert; and all these good things were made still better, by plenty of bread of singular excellence, and a pint of Neckar wine, which was not despicable. What cockney, within the smoke of the kitchen of the Albion or of the Freemason's, can hope to linger over, still less to partake of, the tithe part

of this long list of gustables, at the bare name of which his mouth would water-for only twice twelve-pence of lawful British money?"

The doctor dilates, with true gastronomic satisfaction, on these good things. There is a raciness in this which shows the doctor to be more in his element here than at his drugs. From Wildbad he proceeds-through several towns, all of them possessing springs of greater or lesser efficacy-to Cannstadt, and thence to Boll. The springs of the latter place cure all sorts of cutaneous eruptions. It offers public and private amusements, and agreeable society. Then come Würtemberg and Ulm, with their usual quantum of palaces, pictures, platzes, and other memorabilia, that have furnished matter for the descriptive genius of writers from generation to generation. With the two latter places closes the first division of the doctor's book.

The second division comprehends the Saltzburghian Spas, Gasteen, Coss-Gasteen, and, incidentally, Munich, Saltzburg, &c. &c. To Munich and its sights he devotes seventy-two cumbrous pages; it is wearisome in the extreme to turn page after page, and find nothing but the same tedious and long-drawn out tale of pictures and pilasters, statues and staircases, long galleries, lofty domes, gardens, fountains, &c.; in fine, all the dry bones of every guidebook repast, confusedly huddled together under our nose-in vain we seek for some of that interesting material which the doctor promised us in his preface-some of those humourous sketches that were to enliven our journey through this German wilderness. The doctor's facetiæ seem to be sown more thinly as he advances— scarcely do we meet with a slypuff. Speaking of travellers at Munich, he says

"As usual among the guests, the English predominate. You can mark them at once by diagnostic signs which never fail. If you behold an unusually well-dressed individual, high-cravated, and clad in a Stulz frac, coming into the dining-room after all the rest of the people have finished their potage, be assured he is an Englishman. If he begins grumbling in indifferent French to the kellner, at the bouillon au ris, and turns up his nose at the bouilli which follows, doubt not that he is any other than an Englishman. If he beckons to the waiter to bring him a dish out of its turn, so as to derange, altogether, the usual routine to which every one cheerfully submits he is unquestionably an Englishman. If he calls for a bottle of champagne when every one else is quaffing his demi bouteille of sour wine, the conclusion is inevitable: and if three or four such individuals cluster together, talk aloud, and d― the cookery, at the same time that they admit how cheaply they can live and amuse themselves, the case is quite manifest: they are all from this side of the channel-landed from the Dampschiff at Frankfort, and recently imported into Bavaria.

"But these are venial peccadilloes, and innocent peculiarities, of which a certain mass only of travelling Englishmen partakes, and from which many excellent persons, and the sommités aristocratiques ou fashionables, are

entirely exempt. On the other hand, diagnostics equally characteristic, but of a more exalted description, denote the happy dweller of Britain, which more than compensate for his trifling eccentricities; while they open to the really polished and good, every avenue to select society abroad, and secure to them a hearty welcome."

So much for the feeders-now for the food.

"There is a treat which one gets genuine and good at the Cerf-d'orand that is a déjeuner Anglais, served in the neatest manner possible, on one of the small tables in the great dining-room. Tea, good, and made quite à l'Anglaise (the kettle boiling over charcoal embers in an appropriate vessel)—rolls of the whitest flour-excellent butter-eggs just laid for you -and some Bavarian ham or saucisson sans garlick, may be had any day, (damages fifty-six kreutzers a-head, or 1s. 6d.); and that is a real luxury. Who cares for any other repast after it? What meal is more philosophical than such a breakfast? To a traveller, and in rude health, it is the most wholesome repast of his day. To a travelling invalid it is not less so, excepting always the butter. But both will be sure to rise from it with a serenity of mind and a vigour of body, which they would in vain look for, and expect, from one of those more substantial entertainments which mein herr Havard, of the Cerf-d'or, will give them later in the day, at his tabled'hôte."

What egregious twaddle is all this-what ponderous levity-pompous vanity-in every line.

"The principal object of my journey to the continent," pursues the veracious doctor-"embracing as it did several important inquiries appertaining to political economy-required that I should see at Munich, as well as at all the other capitals I visited, some of the king's ministers."

The doctor bursts forth in a new character-political economist― diplomatic mission.

This is real; we had fancied that domestic or kitchen economy would have suited his taste and talents better than unsavoury calculations.

What weighty objects were discussed in those interviews with ministers, may be judged of from one with Prince Wallerstein, chronicled at full length in the doctor's pages, for what purpose, unless to swell their account, we are at a loss to discover. Prince Wallerstein alluded to a work of the doctor's, printed in England, on the cholera, with which, of course, the prince was so struck, that he meant to make it his rule of conduct should the disease visit the capital, to which flattering declaration the doctor responds, " votre altesse a pleinement raison;" but the most amusing part of this puff princely, this grand climax of quackery, is the doctor's attacking some rival scribe, who lashed him in the "Edinburgh Review:" here it is,


"Je serais bien curieux,' resumed Prince Wallerstein, to know what such writers as professed those principles could now offer in extenuation

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