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deserve our reproach; but it adorns the soldier with unsullied radiancy, and imparts to his laurels a bloom, which otherwise are viewed with horror, and exhibit only a badge of cruelty and rapine.
On the 12th, at noon, I leftNhan; and that evening, halting at the village of Saleannah, situate at the bottom of the hill, and four cosses distant from the town. In this quarter I first saw, since I left Europe, the fir tree*, and the willow, which, as in our country, delights in hanging over a stream. From the top of the Nhan hill, the plains of Sirhend present a wide prospect to the south-east, south, and southwest: the view to the northward is terminated at a short distance by snowy mountains. Little danger being now incurred from travelling in small bodies, as the mountains compose a barrier against the depredations of the Sicques or other marauders, our party from this place to Bellaspour was small. To assist my servant, I had entertained a Kashmirian trader iu small wares, who accompanied me from Najeb Ghur; and he was at all times a useful and a pleasant companion.
On the 13th, at Sudowra — twelve cosses; a village on a high hill of steep ascent. The road this day led through a woody and mountainous country, abounding, we were told, with a va^ riety of wild beasts. A tiger had newly marked our path with the impression of his feet; and being then informed that this creature always attacks animals in preference to men, I immediately dismounted, and led my poor little horse. The tiger, and I believe generally, the feline species, possess but a small share of courage, and seldom openly seizes its prey; but, lurking in concealment, attacks by surprise, and if unsuccessful, steals away into a hiding place without returning to the onset; and in contradistinction to the canine species, whose great strength lies in the jaw, the feline strike their prey with the fore-feet and talons. It is said that a tiger, having once tasted human flesh, becomes fond of it, and gratifies his appetite when it can be done without encountering any conspicuous danger. Yet it would appear, that all animals have a dread of man, which proceeding from the novelty of his appearance, or perhaps some instinctive fear of his powers of offence, prompts them, when not furious with hunger, to shun the contest.—This evening, I was comfortably lodged in the front of a Hindoo retail shop, where an excellent mess of pease and wheaten cakes was served up to us. Pray excuse me for noting this domestic concern, which is to me of great moment; for by such wholesome
* That species of it called the Scots fir.'
meals, my strength was unimpaired, and my daily progress made with vigour. Covered quarters during the night was what we anxiously sought after, but did not always obtain. The Hindoos, though hospitably disposed to travellers, are averse to admitting Mahometans, whom they hold unclean, into any part of their houses.
On the 14th, at Lawasah — six cosses ;—k few scattered houses. This day's journey consisted in climbing steep mountains ; and though my little horse was as active as a goat, I was obliged, from the almost perpendicular height, to walk the greatest part of the way. For the benefit of such travellers who may come within your knowledge, and be disposed to pursue my track, you must inform them that the shopkeeper at Lawasah is a great rogue, a noisy wrangler, and mixes a great quantity of barley with his wheat-meal. As he is the only man of his profession in the place, there is no remedy for the evil, but laying in a stock at Sudowra, where they will find honest treatment, and lodging to boot. Though it is not very probable that this recommendation will be of material use to the honest man at Sudowra, yet I feel a pleasure in mentioning his goodness to me. ,
Ox the 15th, at Coultie—nine cosses;—two or three scattered houses. The Nhan country is bounded here by the small district of Bojepour, .which depends on the Bellaspour chief.—On the Kith, halted on the banks of a nulla—
seven cosses. Met on the road a Kashmirian
family, consisting of a goldsmith, his wife,' and some children, who were travelling to some town on the borders of Thibet, where they intended to settle.
Oar the 17th, at Knnda, a small village—eight cosses, and about five miles to the north-west of Dsrrripour, the residence of the chief of a small district, generally subject to the authority of the Bellaspour government. At Durmpoar I paid a-duty of two rupees for passing my horse.
On the 13th, at Gowrab,—nine cosses. T halted'-during the heat of the day near a watermill/ the first I had seen in India. It was constructed on the principle of the like machine in Europe, but of wore simple mechanism and coarser workmanship. About two o'clock in the morning, I observed an eclipse of the moon, the foody of which continued partially shaded Tor near two hours. In the evening, our little party went to a fanner's cottage, where we solicited permission to lodge our baggage, and to/ sleep under one of his sheds. The farmer candidly said, looking stedfastly in my face, which iie seemed not to like, that he was apprehensive that an out-side lodging would not satisfy us. It was with much difficulty he would believe that we had sought his house only for shelter, and it was not until the Kashmirian had shewn him some small wares for sale, that we were suffered to occupy the front of his house. The districts of IJundah and Gowrah, are denominated the BariahTukrah*, being certain portions of territory bequeathed by a chief of Bellaspour to his younger son, some fifty years ago. These petty states are ill governed, and it is only among them that the traveller, from the Ganges to Kashmire, incurs the risk of being pillaged.
On the 19th, at the village of Taynaghur— ten cosses. On the 20th, at Bellaspour—twelve Cbsses, the residence of the Ranee or female ruler of the Kalour territory. This town stands on the south-cast side of the Setloud or Sutiadge, the most easterly of the five rivers, from which the name of Punjah | is given to the tract of country extending from Sirhend to the Indus. The Setloud, a very rapid stream, is at this place about one hundred yards broad. Bellaspour is a well-built town, and exhibits a regularity not often seen in these parts. The streets are paved, though rather roughly; and
* A term in the Hinduee, signifying twelve portions.
t A Persian word, signifying five waters. ""