his day no fairer title than that of "Butcher Cumberland." Walpole, though absent from the first levee, went "I am many times after. ashamed to say," he writes, that I am of so young and fashionable society, but as they are people I live with, I choose to be idle rather than morose. I can go to a young supper without forgetting how much sand is run out of the hour-glass." Tom Moore, in his day, was a favorite at Almack's, "the finest" of the ladies always at his feet. The literature of the time is full of allusions to the people found there, and for three-quarters of a century none of all the beau-monde of London but were found there. The "foundresses" of these reunions were Mrs. Fitzroy, Lady Pembroke, Mrs. Meynell, Lady Molyneux, Miss Pelham, Miss Loyd. Meeting first at a tavern, the scruples of Lady Pembroke led to their installation at Almack's. So exclusive, however, was the tone of these assemblies that the only foreign lady ever admitted was the Princess Lieven. To be admitted, in fact, to Almack's placed beyond question the social prestige of any individual. In deed so despotic were the managers in their control that a satire of the day thus puts it: "At Almack's ball, Virtue, religion-they're above them all." The costumes of the men were prescribed by rigid rules -knee-breeches, white craThe vat, and chapeau bras. Duke of Wellington, so far forgetting himself on one occasion as to appear in trousers, was denied admittance. The Duke, by-the-way, seemed, according to tradition, to have been rather a would-be trifler with the regulations of the club, having at another time appeared at its doors a few moments after midnight, when again the constitution barred him out. It was at Almack's, it is said, that the German waltz was, in 1813, first introduced into England, and "no event," says Mr. Raikes, "ever produced so great a sensation in London society." The votaries of fashion deserted their favorite haunts, and devoted their mornings to the practice. But their efforts were for a long time unavailing. There was "trembling in the beginning," and "dizziness Fig. 1.-CLOTH COSTUME WITH FEATHER TRIMMING. For description see Supplement. Fig. 2.-GoWN WITH CAPE. For pattern and description see Supplement, No. IV., Figs. 28-31. factor, moved to and fro by the winds, but from no personal exertion," and the whole performance was pronounced "worse than impudent" when there were "public ballets every Tuesday and Sa urday." Club members were elected by the gentlemen voting for or blackballing the ladies, and the ladies excluding or admitting the gentlemen. Neither side, however, were above their little revenges, and the inability of one party to secure a member was followed by the discomfiture often of its opponents. Almack's Assembly-rooms, now known occasionally as "Willis's Rooms," were close by the St. James Theatre. The name was taken from Almack himself, a Scotchman, and a sort of adventurer, it was said, in clubs, having "formed" at one time the club known later as "Brooks's." The ballroom was a superb affair, a hundred feet by forty, and decorated after the best manner of the times. Its glory and prestige have long since departed, its decline having virtually begun as early as 1840. The days of its greatest brilliancy were in the early part of this century, and no effort to revive its ancient splendor has been of any avail. The charm of the picture for readers of the BAZAR will not be merely transitory. Brave men and beautiful women never weary us in art or history. RICE-LILY. "The dainty sisterhood of bud and bloom Upspringing everywhere." AMID the countless host of floral beauties crowning the mountain-tops and carpeting valley and wild-wood, there is none perhaps more keenly sensitive to light than the rice-lily, said to blossom abundantly in Southern Georgia. At eventide the snowy petals of this delicate plant, like little children in their cribs, are softly enwrapped. in a covering as soft as down to sleep till dewy morn; but should a strong light be placed near a vase of them, the purple-tinted sheath will unfold its protecting leaves, and the blossoms nearest will waken, while that part of the bouquet in shadow will sleep on in undisturbed repose. MRS. WINSLOW'S SOOTHING SYRUP has been used for over fifty years by millions of mothers for their children while teething, with perfect success. It soothes the child, softens the gums, allays all pain, cures wind colic, and is the best remedy for diarrhoea. Sold by druggists in every part of the world. Twenty-five cents a bottle.-[Adv.] DO YOU WANT WHITE HANDS? USE Cornell's Benzoin Cosmetic Soap. Sold everywhere. 25 cents a cake.-[Adv.] BURNETT'S FLAVORING EXTRACTS are invariably acknowledged the purest and best.-[Adv.] ADVERTISEMENTS. GOLD MEDAL, PARIS, 1878. W. BAKER & CO.'S Breakfast Cocoa Is absolutely pure and No Chemicals are used in its preparation. It has more W. BAKER & CO., Dorchester, Mass. BARBOUR'S Black Silks. 21, 22, 23, and 25 inches wide. 1890 Gros-Grain, Faille, Satin, and Surah, BEST QUALITY, PURE DYE. Never Crease, Crock, or Wear Shiny. SOFT, LUSTROUS, ELEGANT. JOHN D. CUTTER & CO., NEW YORK. FURS. If you are in need of anything in the Fur line, either in NEWMARKETS, ULSTERS, SACQUES, JACKETS, CAPES, MUFFS, BOAS, or COLLARS, in Seal, Persian, Monkey, Sable, Lynx, Bear, or in fact any kind of Fur, we can show you novelties in Fine Goods that, for Style, Quality, and Price combined, cannot be equalled in this city, and it will be to your advantage to examine them before purchasing. HENRY SIEDE, 14 West 14th St., and 5th Ave., cor. 38th Street, New York. Send for Catalogue. ESTABLISHED 40 YEARS. NEWEST FASHIONS IN FURS. EARLY FALL PRICES OF Furs Manufactured BY C. C. SHAYNE. The styles shown are the very latest designs, and are the most popular styles Special at worn. tention has been paid to the perfect fit of garments, every garment is manufactured in my own workshop by skilled workmen, and can be relied upon as being the best Furs that can be produced at the prices for which they are offered. My Sealskin garments are made from genuine Alaska Seal, London dressed and dyed, the very best goods in the world. The most popular Furs this season which are worn in shoulder-capes are Russian Sable, Hudson Bay Sable, Mink, Alaska Sable, Persian Lamb, and Sealskin. Parties desiring to purchase my goods who cannot visit my stores in the city, can secure them by sending their orders direct to my Wholesale House, where they will receive my personal attention. Goods will be shipped to any part of the country C.O.D., with the privilege of examination; if the purchase price is sent with the order, the express charges will Copyright, 1890, by C. C. Shayne. Design No. 295. The most popular Sealskin Cape manufactured, the collar turns up, and can be worn close around the neck or turned down as shown in cut. Write for prices. correct measure WAISTS ments, especially DELSARTE CORSET CO., 142 West 23d Street, New York. My wife says she wouldn't try to keep house without the "NEVER-BREAK" steel cooking utensils. She was tired of the old kind, which were always greasy, always smelling of the last thing cooked in them, or else scaling, cracking, leaking, or breaking. Maybe you're tired of them too; if so send for illustrated circular. THE BRONSON SUPPLY CO., Cleveland, O. bust measure, all around under arms, all around over arms. Any orders intrusted to my care will be filled to the best of my ability and to your entire satisfaction. Money will be refunded if goods are not satisfactory, if returned within three days after receipt. We are filling orders from old customers with whom we have dealt for the past fifteen years, and I hope to be able to secure the good-will and custom of all with whom I do busi ness. Illustrated circular free. For further information address be prepaid, and goods will be shipped with the DR. LYON'S TOOTH POWDER Thoroughly cleanses the teeth and purifies the breath. Le Boutillier Bros., Broadway and 14th St., N. Y. New Goods at Reduced prices previous to Removal. DRESS GOODS. 300 pieces French and German Dress Goods, plain, stripes, plaids, and checks, broken assortment, formerly 49c. 65c. to 75c....... understanding Broadway and 14th St., New York. that, if they are not entirely satisfactory, the money will be refund ed less the express charges. Where parties are known to the house, or refer Copyright, 1890, by C. C. Shayne. Design No. 306. (SEAL SACQUE.) Represents London dressed and dyed Alaska Sealskin Sacque, a garment which is always fashionable. Popular lengths, 33, 36, 39, 42, and 45 inches. Write for prices. "What! Corns and Bunions all gone?" "Yes, I am happy to say, through the merits of HANSON'S MAGIC CORN SALVE I can now walk with ease." HANSON'S This Label is on the Best Ribbon Made. Ask your Dealer for it. Corsets LÉOTY World wide Reputation 8, Place de la Madeleine, PARIS These incomparable corsets are cut in stuffs, specially manufactured for this house viz: Silk-thread, Brocart Gde Duchesse, etc. RIDLEYS' Good Complexion! Grand Street, New York. HANDKERCHIEFS. Ladies' Hemstitched Linen Handkerchiefs, Embroidered Initial, dozen in Handsome Box, $1.50, $2.25, $3.00 box dozen. Men's Fine Embroidered Initial Handkerchiefs, full size, dozen in Neat Box, at $1.50, $2.25, $3.00 Box dozen. Ladies' Plain White Linen Hemstitched, dozen in Fancy Box, at 65c., 75c., $1.00, $1.25, $1.50, $1.75, $2.00 Box dozen. Men's Plain White Linen Ilemstitched, dozen in Pretty Box, $1.25, $1.50, $1.75, $2.00, $2.50 Box dozen. Men's Linen Hemmed, Plain White, 1⁄2 dozen in Fancy Box, at 75c., S5c., $1.00, $1.25, $1.35, $1.50 Box dozen. CHILDREN'S HANDKERCHIEFS. 2400 Fancy Picture Boxes, each containing 14 dozen Colored Border Children's Handkerchiefs, 20c., 25c., 30c. a Box. SILK HANDKERCHIEFS AND MUFFLERS. TO Japanese Silk Embroidered, White or Colored and Scalloped Edges, 24c., 31c., 40c., 50c., 69c., 75c., to $1.25 each. Hemstitched Japanese Silk Embroidered Initial Handkerchiefs, 31c., 59c., 69c., 85c. each. High Colors in Japanese Silk Hemstitched Handkerchiefs, 69c., 79c., 89c. each. Men's Cream Silk Mufflers, 89c., $1.00, $1.38, $1.50, $1.75, to $5.25 each. Colored Silk Mufflers, 65c., 75c., $1.00, $1.25, to $4.50 each. Holidays are Coming. If you would be informed in regard to the latest novelties in Toys, Dolls, Games, Holiday, and Fancy Goods generally, Send for Sample Copy Fashion Magazine (Holiday Number-Illustrated). &c. IS NEVER SO GOOD AS WHEN MADE IN AN ARNOLD STEAM COOKER. The same Cooker will bring health, convenience, and economy, if used every day in the year. Descriptive Circular and Pamphlet on "Wholesome Cookery "free on application. WILMOT CASTLE & CO., Rochester, N. Y. New York Salesroom, 838 Broadway. WM. M. CRANE & CO., Managers. LADIES can have smaller feet. Solid Comfort. Pamphlet free. Sample pkg., 10c. The Pedine Co., New York. DEAF INESS & HEAD NOISES CURED by Peck's INVISIBLE TUBULAR EAR CUSHIONS. Whispers heard. Comfortable. Successful where all Romedies fail. Sold by F. HISCOX, only, 853 Br'dway, New York. Write for book of proofs FREE. Shrubs on salary, whole or part time. BROWN ADIES WANTED. To sell Roses and BROTHERS, Nurserymeu, Rochester, N. Y., Chicago, Ill. SILKS. Black Brocaded Faille and Satin, BLACK AND COLORED GROUND Pompadour Brocades. Two cases of the latest productions of Lyons Looms. FOR WEDDING DRESS. Striped Silks for Carriage and Dinner Dress. EMBROIDERED AND BROCADED Gaze, Grenadine, Crepe de Chine, and Mousseline de Soie For Ball and Bridesmaids' Dresses. LYONS VELVETS. ALL-SILK STRIPE VELVETS. PRIDE of the WEST Broadway & 19th st. Unequalled in quality, and free from all chemicals injurious to the fabric. Manufactured with great care for Ladies' Underwear. In purchasing garments, ask for this brand, and take no substitute. This muslin is for sale by all leading wholesale and retail dry-goods dealers in the United States in 36 inch, also for pillow cases in 41 and 45 inch widths: NEW YORK CITY. 23d STREET Le Boutillier Bros. OFFER A FULL LINE OF Norfolk and New Brunswick WINTER UNDERWEAR |