The forms of most islands appear to be naturally determined by the direction, extent and branches of their mountainous ridges, the principal of which may always be traced either through the central districts or with abrupt dislocations along one or other of the longest sides. Of the latter description is the great Alpine Ridge of Britain, which rises in a stupendous line upon the western maritime counties of the island, and is particularly apparent in Cornwall, Devonshire, Wales, Cumberland and Scotland. This great ridge or chain is interrupted by the valley of the Severn and the Bristol Channel: it is again more extensively broken by the waters of the Dee, the Mersey, the Ribble, together with the other streams and low lands between the Menai and the Lune. From the southernmost of the divisions in this chain, a branch of mountains, not continuous nor of equal magnitudes, may be observed stretching forth in a curvilinear direction towards the north-east. This branch includes the Mendip hills of Somersetshire, the Malvern hills, the rocks of granite, which, in all their primitive varieties, spread still more eastwardly among the forest hills of Leicestershire, and take, through the counties of Warwick and Stafford, a northern direction, until they are again seen, elevated with sublime but sterile grandeur, in the abovementioned mountains of the Peak. From the northern Ridge of the Great Alpine chain, extends another ridge, which, branching off from among the lofty and romantic regions that encompass the Cumberland lakes, constitutes the principal line of the Yorkshire range. This line of mountains includes the Great Whin-sile and Inglebrough of Yorkshire, together with the Blakelow-stones, the Kinder-scout, and the Axe-edge of the Peak. With this view of the manner in which the central elevations of the island are united with the southern and northern portions of our Maritime Alps, we may proceed to describe the minor ridges, which diverge in several directions from the High Peak, and are speedily lost under the plains, and in the fruitful declivities of a richer and more recent formation, on the eastern and northern boundaries of the county. These minor ridges are best described under the names of the rivers which receive the waters that flow from their sides or summits. The west Derwent Ridge branches off from the HighPeak at the Great Axe-edge. It contains the sources of the brooks and other streams that fall into the western bank of the Derwent. This ridge might, indeed, be denominated the eastern ridge of the Dove. It separates the upper valleys of these rivers and their tributary streams; but, as it descends southward, and approaches the wide bed of the Trent, it becomes divided near the village of Brailsford. One range of diminished, but beautiful hills, spreads eastward, and after encompassing the town of Derby with a variety of picturesque elevations, continues to embank the Derwent until the junction of that river with the Trent. The western range is lost as it approaches the streams and meadows between Egginton and Burton, where "Trent no longer mocks With cold repulse, but courts with ardent love The bright espousals of his own sweet murmuring Dove." The east Derwent Ridge, from the sides of which arise the auxiliary rivulets that flow into the eastern bank of the Derwent, branches out from the northernmost extremity of the Peak. There the Blakelow-stone mountain joins the Yorkshire line by a chain of gritstone rocks, called the Grinah, the Barrow, and the Dean-head-stones. From the east side of these flows the Trough, or Wrongsley river; and on the west the Etherow has its source. The line of elevations on the east of the Derwent commences at Dean-head-stones, and may be traced through part of Yorkshire and the whole of Derbyshire, until it is lost amongst the meadows of the Trent between Breaston and Sawley. One projection of this ridge juts eastward as far as Sutton Hill in Nottinghamshire; and the valleys of the Erewash and the Nutbrook, have their western boundaries along that portion which stretches back into this county from Sutton towards Draycot. This important line of elevated land contains, along a course, varied in direction, and about seventy miles in extent, the sources of the Don, the Idle, and the Rother; while numerous branches diverge from it to the south and the south-west, and are drained by rivulets tributary to the Derwent. From the British Alpine chain, already mentioned, near the northern or greater Axe-edge, other ridges branch out of less extent, but of considerable elevation, which bound the valleys of the Etherow, the Goyte, and other streams. The romantic river Wye has for the eastern boundary of the valley, or rather deep ravine, through which it flows, a branch ridge from the Alpine chain, commencing at Rushop-edge, and stretching out in abrupt rocky projections to the junction of the Wye and the Derwent at Rowsley; and for the southern and western limit of its vale, there is a bold branch of the west Derwent ridge, which proceeds past Chelmorton and Over-Haddon. Another ridge, branching out of the west Derwent ridge at Minning-Low, and crossing Stanton Moor to Great Rowsley, contains the springs of the Bradford, the Lathkil, and of other streams connected with the Wye. An irregular branch of the Main or Alpine chain, enters Derbyshire from the south-west. This forms the southern heights of the valley of the Trent; and, separating into ridges, embanks the Mease, and contains the sources of numerous streamlets which fall into that river and the Trent. Upon these ridges or tracts of high land, Mr. Farey, the intelligent surveyor of the county for the Board of Agriculture, distinguishes no fewer than seven hundred points or particular mountainous elevations, noting down the strata on their sides and summits, and assigning to each the appellation by which it is known in its vicinity. His list, being alphabetical, cannot, without the aid of his map, afford the reader a sufficiently clear idea of the position of these eminences, along the tract or ridge to which they respectively appertain. We have altered his arrangement; and, selecting those which constitute the principal ridges in Derbyshire alone, we have enumerated them in order, commencing each list at the point where a smaller ridge branches from one of greater extent. NAMES of the several MOUNTAINS, Hills, and elevatED POINTS, on the principal RIDGES or TRACTS of HIGH LAND in DERBYSHIRE, with the strata on their summits or sides. N. B.-g. denotes Gritstone-rock; 7. Limestone; t. Toadstone; gr. gravel; cz. gr. chertz gravel; qz. gr. quartz gravel; sh. shale; sh. g. shale grit; c. coal; c. sh. coal shale; r. m. red marl; p. peat; cl. clay; gy. gypsum. The figures point out the order of the Limestone and Toadstone formations. Greenwich, Ripley, c. sh. Codnor Park, g. Breech hill, Denby, g. Bredsall Moor, g. [ Salmon coloured.] Hag Wind-Mill, Dale Abbey, g. [Salmon coloured.] Dum's hill, qz. gr. Spondon hill, r. m. Clouds hill, Sandiacre, r. m. Risley Park, r. m. Hopwell Hall, Ockbrook, r. m. WEST DERWENT, OR EAST DOVE Commencing at Axe-edge in the Harper hill, Buxton, 4 l Staden hill, 3 t. High Cliff, Cowdale, 4 l. Hill Head, Hartington, 4 l. Croom hill, 4 l Park House hill, 47. Brierly hill, 4. Alders Cliff, 4 7. High Wheeldon, 47. Cronk stone hill, 3 . Overstreet hill, 3 7. Hurdlow House hill, 2. Wagon Lows, 4 l. High Cross, 4 l. Cliff hill, 4. Mossey Low, 4 l. Cardel Low, 4 l. Coatsfield Low, 3 l. One Ash Clump, Monyash, 1 l. Hen-low, Heathcote, 4 l. Wolfscote hill, 4 l. Cross Low Bank, Alsop, 4 l. Mote Low Arbor, 4 l. Nabs hill, 4 l. Thorpe-Cloud, Thorpe, 4 l. Arbor-Low, Middleton, by Yolgrave, cz. gr. on 2 l. This eminence is nearly two miles north of Newhaven: it is very high, with a Druidical circle of large stones on it. Callenge Low, Yolgrave, 1 . End Low, 1. Gratton Low, 1 l. Ryda hill, Brassington, 4 l. This mass of elevations is very high, with a well and hermitage at the top. Chariot-clump, near Hopton, cz. gr. on 3 t. Barn hill, 31. Hascar hill, sh. and sh. g. Black wall hill, qz. gr. on sh. Wardgate hill, Hulland, gr. South and south-west Ridge. Chelmorton Low, 2 l. Chee Tor hill, near Wormhill, 4 . tilted. Wham Rake Head, Taddington, 2 l. Slipper Low, 2 l. Priestcliff Lees, 2 l. Priestcliff Low, 2 l. Pet hill, near Monsal Dale, 2 l. and 2 t. Priestwood hill, near Meynell Lang- High Low, Monyash, 17. Jey and Kedleston, r. m. Rough Heanor hill, r. m. Radbourn Hall, r. m. Mickleover Town, r. m. Burnaston hill, Etwall, r. m. Coneygree, Willington, gr. on r. m. Stenson hill, gr. on r. m. Swarkstone Lows, gr. on r. m. r. m. Ballington hill, Ambaston, r. m. and gy. RIDGES OF THE WYE. Eastern Ridge. This Ridge branches from the Great This eminence is high, and is remark- Tra-Cliff, south-east of Mam-Tor, 4 l. Castle-hill, Castleton, 4 l Edingtree hill, Bradwell, 3 . Damcliffe, Peak Forest, 4 l. Summercross hill, Tideswell, 21. Bathem-Edge, Tideswell Moor, 3 l. Little Edge, near Tideswell, 1 l. Blakelow Tor, Great Longsdon, 1 l. Here is the celebrated Birds'-Eye Marble Quarry. Sheldon town end, 1 l. Shack-Low, Sheldon, 1 Bole hill, Sheldon, 17. Ricklow-Dale Head, Hunters Meer, 17. Dirtlow hill, Bakewell Moor, sh. l. RIDGES OF THE SHELF. The north Ridge of this small river, projects from the Self-Siones of the Great Alpine Chain, and contains two elevated points. Glossop Low, Glossop, g. with grey sl. The southern Ridge begins at Glead RIDGES OF THE NOE, OR NOW. This commences at Kinder-Scout in the Great Alpine Chain. Seal-stone hill, Rowlee, g. Crookstone hill, and Knowl, g. ASHOP RIDGE. This Ridge is a projection of the LATHKIL, OR BRADFORD RIDGES. The north or north-west ridge of these united streams is the same as the south and south-west ridge of the Wye. On the south of the ravines through which they flow, the following elevations constitute two irregular ridges. Blakelow, near Elton, 1 1. Bank pasture Tor, 17. White Low, Bonsal, 3 l. Wensley village, sh. and 1 l. Oaker hill, Wensley, sh. and sh. g. Heights of Abraham, Matlock, 1 l. and 1 t. Berry-cliff, Elton, g. THE ROTHER RIDGES. The west Ridge Branches from the east Derwent Lygate hill, Holmesfield, g. Bradway Cross, Totley, g. Middle Handley, Staveley, g. Glass House Common Whittington, g. One-stone hill, Dronfield, g. Herding hill, Norton, g. The cast Ridge Commences at Overmoor near Tibshelf, between Derby hire and Nottinghamshire on the east Derwent Ridge. Hardwick Park, yellow l. Bolsover Moor, yel. l. with Quarries. Marston Moor, Barlborough, g. Knitaker hill, Barlborough, yel. l. on c. South Anston hill, in Yorkshire, a few miles beyond the boundaries of this county, remarkable for its yellow lime and salmon-coloured Grit. DOLEE RIDGE Branches from the east Derwent Compton Common, near Winfield, g. Sutton Hall, Scarsdale, g. Upper-Lane-Farm, Hady, c. sh. Hawthorn hill, Staveley, c. sh. AMBER RIDGES. The west Ridge Projects from the east Derwent Ridge at Harwood-hill, Becley, west of Chesterfield. Ashover-Quarry, (Grindstones) g. Castle Top, Cromford, sh. and sh. g. Coburn hill, South Winfield Park, g. Shottle Gate hill, sh. Hazlewood hill, Belper, sh. BOOTLE-BROOK RIDGE. This Ridge is a projection from the south Amber Ridge, commencing at Ripley village. Henmore, near Belper, g. Duffield Bank, g. NUTBROOK RIDGE Branches from Roby Field, Denby, on the east Derwent Ridge. Heanor Windmill hill, qz. gr. on c. sh. Shipley Wood hill, Ilkeston, g. Little Hallam hill, g. MORLEDGE RIDGE Branches off the west Derwent Ridge at Hulland Ward village. Cross-o'-th'-Hand, Turnditch, qz. gr. on sh. Flowery hill, Turnditch, qz. gr. on sh. Bull-hurst, Mugginton, qz. gr. on sh. Gun hill, Windley, qz. gr. on sh. Burley hill, Duffield, qz. gr. on sh. Quorn hill, Allestree, qz. gr. on sh. Allestree town, r. m. Darley hill, near Derby, r. m. SHOO RIDGES. The northern Ridge Commences with the Toadstone bas- The south Ridge Extends in irregular elevations from Gib-hill in Kirk Ireton, on the west Derwent Ridge, and includes the valleys of four small streams or brooks. Hough-Park-Clump, Bradley, qz. gr. on sh. Bradley Park, qz. gr. on sh. Supposed to cover Coal. Hoon hill, Church Broughton, r. m. Snelston Common, loamy qz. gr. Supposed to cover Coal. Birchwood Park, Roston. Supposed to be an isolated yellow limestone rock. Birchwood Moor, Roston, sandy gr. Supposed to cover Coal. Hare-hill, Sudbury, qz. gr. on r. m. EAST DOVE RIDGE. The west Derwent Ridge necessarily HILLS IN DERBYSHIRE, The Ridges of elevated ground be tween the Trent and the Mease are very confused. They properly m. Bretby Clump, Bretby, r. m. Cad-House Lane, Ticknall, qz. gr. This view of the elevated parts of the county, from the gritstone of the Peak to the red marl, or, as some authors denominate that rich prolific earth on the banks of the Trent and the lower Derwent, the red-loam, of the southern district, presents, we conceive, as correct an idea of the diversity of strata, as could be done by a geological map. The heights of some of the loftiest mountains in these ridges have been ascertained, but the investigation and description is far from being complete. In the list of " Altitudes of the stations and other remarkable hills,” calculated during the progress of the Trigonometrical survey, under the direction of Colonel Mudge, the following are given as the chief eminences in Derbyshire. VALLEYS, and the beds of rivers, have a natural connexion with each other, or, rather, they would be identically the same if the theory of Dr. Hutton and Professor Playfair were true, who have asserted "that all valleys have been excavated by rivers that flow through them." But it appears to be now generally admitted by geologists, that other and more powerful causes must have combined in the formation of valleys; and that, as far as water has been an agent, we must rather contemplate the force of a deluge, than the erosive powers of even the largest or most rapid rivers. The valleys of Derbyshire are extremely interesting, not only on account of the rock and river scenery with which they abound, but because, as Mr. Farey observes, they afford the miner and geologist "situations for examining and comparing the edges of corresponding strata, on the two sides of a valley, the ledges of rock in its bottom, and of studying the truly surprising and powerful causes that have operated in the formation of valleys." Narrow precipitous valleys have, undoubtedly, stronger claims upon the artist and the scientific student than those of wider extent. The continuity of their cliffs is more majestic, their projections are bolder, and their chasms are more abrupt and awful: they present the order of the strata more clearly to the research of the geologist, and more accurately and intimately disclose to him some of nature's abstrusest secrets. We shall subjoin, with a few omissions and alterations, the list of these defiles or rocky valleys, as given by the author of the Agricultural Survey; pointing out to the mineralogist and geologist, those objects that may be conducive to a correct knowledge of our basaltic and calcarious rocks, and their mineral productions. At the same time we would have it understood, that, although we do not particularize the wider valleys, they are not without beauty, nor are they deficient in objects of instructive interest. The meadows and |