cifed as a demoniac. "At Almaraz, the curate of the place, a Francifcan, invited himself with the utmoft freedom to fupper; and our excellent wine infpired him with much gaiety. Hle had attended the army as almoner in the laft campaign against the French, and affured us that he had more than once feen St. Ifidorus in the fhape of a final cloud at the head of the army. To avoid giving pain to this good man, who feemed to fpeak from his heart, we did not appear to doubt the fact, and only made a few obfervations en paffant on the unfortunate itlue of that war; nor was it without aftonishment that we heard the good curate attribute it to the fins of the queen. Next morning he came to bid us adieu, and taking from his large fleeves half a dozen oranges and a pidgeon, begged our acceptance of them. We returned his politenets by a few cigars, and parted after a very chearful breakfaft with mutual benevolence." (p. 252.) In the final towns and villages not a night paffes without a dozen ferenades or feguedillas of the young amorofos of the place. This antient cuftom of the Moors feems to have continued in all its force even in the fmallett villages. (p. 253.) The valleys of the Sierra de S. Pedro ferve, during winter, as an afylum for the flocks of the neighbouring provinces, which here find a milder climate and greater abundance of food. We met feveral of thefe flocks returning to the mountains of Leon to pafs a cooler fummer there. They travel at molt four hours in the day, and often fearcely two. The herdfmen inclofe them every night in pens formed by nets; and the care they take of them is accompanied with various fuperftitious practices. We now left the ferra or mountains behind us, and our road was bordered with odoriferous fhrubs. The plain prefented to view a vaft extent of myrtle, rofemary, thyme, ciftus ladaniferus, box, &c. What a waste of land, which a more numerous population might convert into fertile fields. The last five leagues from La Roca to Badajoz refembles an Arabian defart, without water. Badajoz, with its antient citadel, built in the time of the Moors, and the white mafs of its houses, which continue along the fite of the hill, are now open, and this view produces an impreffion by no means deftitute of intereft or of charms. It is a frontier town towards Portugal, but the works very inconfiderable. The first Portuguese fortrefs, 4 long hours or 3 thort Spanish leagues from Badajoz, is Elvas." The two frontier governors have agreed to fuller perlons to enter on both fides without pafsport to the two forts, which much facilitates many branches of commerce, and favours finuggling. The regular lawful trade fince the laft war with England is become more brifk by neutral thips or Portuguese ones, by way of Lifbon. Portugal gains the duties inwards and outwards, and employs her fhipping; and Spain alfo enjoys fome advantage, colt what it may. The Portuguese cultivate their frontiers better. The import and export contraband trade here is belt; feveral millions of dollars have been exported from Madrid hither into Portugal by the connivance of the culiom houfe officers, fo that the expences of the cuttom houfe at Badajoz, and perhaps of all, coft the king a fourth more than the duties bring him. The Portuguese interinarry with Spanish families. Another confequence is the defertion from the English regiuents at Litbon, compofed, 1797, of emigrants and Germans, calling themfelves Swits, who, by favour of the Portuguefe peafauts, get or are entered into the Spanish fervice by dozens, confiding of vagabonds, the common people, and wretched victims of fraud fecking to gain their liberty. M. F praifes the Spanish foldiers, who, though they make lefs appearance at the parade than Pruflians or Germans, conduct themfelves equally well in battle. (p. 256-267.) The climate of Eftremadura is a perfect alternation of extremes of heat and cold, the former rendering the days, the latter the nights infupportable; and through the year a kind of endemical fever prevails at Badajoz, where, for want of a public promenade, the fireets are filled with evening walkers; and being extremely narrow, the veftibules of the houses, which are left open, are lighted, and the doors full of people, which has a very animated appearance, and affords great variety, to which may be added the almost continual found of guitars, and dancing with caftanets. At leaft one houfe to four fells ftrong wine 14d. a pint, and a game like pharao is carried on in full market by the lower clafs. The ladies are extremely fallow; but their flender make, and the animated expreffion of their large and black black eyes, foon cause their complexions to be forgot. They pats for great prudes, but are not accufed of being always cruel; and, among thofe they favour, it is faid, they prefer officers and canons. Badajoz is the birth-place of the Prince of Peace, who defcended from a family of farmers. His parents fold their eftate, and lived on a final income. If public rumour deferves credit, Don Manuel de Godoy, who was an officer in the guards, has rifen in confequence of his perfonal advantages and his guitar. He has not fince his elevation forgot his old comrades or his countrymen in general. Nor can it be denied that, in the diftribution of fo many places and penfions, his favour has frequently ferved as a fubftitute for talents. It is no lefs true that el principe, as he is called, has encouraged and diftinguifhed merit, and in general favoured agriculture and the Iciences. Whatever may be the judgement of pofterity, they will doubtlefs render juftice to his good heart and honeft intentions; nor will his memory be fiained by any odious action. Manuelito es buono," "Little Emanuel is a good fellow," is the common expreffion of the old women of Badajoz, efpecially his nurfe, to whom he gives a penfion, who remembers him with the moft affectionate tenderness. (p. 273.) The continuance of the folano had injured the crops; and we faw country people bufy in cuting the corn with fickles indented like a faw. The reapers of both fexes continuing in the field day and night through the harvefi beneath this ferene fky, with their numerous fires and nocturnal fongs, had the appearance of a truly patriarchal feaft. (p. 275.) In Andalusia the men wear fheepskin without the wool on for culottes, and large white round hats; the women light green petticoats with green ribbands, and hats of various colours with a quantity of ribbands. Carts of lattice-work, with wheels as high as the body, were drawn by oxen adorned with paper-ribbands of different colours. Every thing in the houfes affumed an appearance of greater affluence and comfort; and we could not avoid perceiving the induftry of the inhabitants in the cultivation of the foil. (p. 276.) We found a much more active race of people than in Eftremadura. (p. 277.) At a difiance, the grand and various piles of building, and the gilded fpires of the great and celebrated city of Se, ville, in the middle of an extensive plain, form a highly pleafing object, The garden of the magnificent Carthu fian monattery is filled with a vast number of American plants in flower. The fireets are fo narrow that carriages can fcarcely pafs; but the houses are in general well built within, and very clean both within and without. The favourable idea we had formed on entering Andalufia is confirmed, and a certain degree of affluence and refined neatnefs may be obferved in the moft trifling particulars. In preference to all the cities and towns of the fame order in Spain, it affords the means of living cheap and comfortably. It is the plea fanteft and beft refidence to a foreigner who wishes to learn the language. The chearful promenades, and the banks of the Guadalquivir, are very pleasing. This river bears fhips of 80 to 100 tons burden. The fnuff manufactory re fembles a fortrefs, being furrounded with a wall and ditches, and having two drawbridges, one only used for entrance (p. 271-282.) On the way from Seville to Cadiz, St. Lucar de Barrameda is a finall but pretty town, famous for fmuggling and frauds of every kind. The bay of Cadis between the coaft and the ifthmus, forms one of the fincft gulfs in Europe. The ram parts are high and built on the rocks. The air is excellent, and the temperas ture not otherwife to be expected in fo Southern a latitude. The folano, or South-eaft wind, from the oppofite coaft of Africa, is pregnant with the moft fuffocating vapours. The popula tion of Cadiz is reckoned between 75 and 80,000; the houfes high and crowded, but the number of remarkable ones is very fmall. The style of architecture is Moorish. The environs on the North or land fide present a view equally fingular and grand. The land rifes 10 fathoms above the level of the fea. In no one place is found fueh a union of all the pleafures and luxuries of life; yet fresh-water is wanting. In Andalufia every thing bears the stamp of a burning climate; every fenfation is ftrong and impetuous; every thing tends to extremes; every thing is immoderate and without reftraint, and above all in what regards the fexes. The beauty of the Andalufian women, their vivacity, their exalted fanaticifm, their extreme fenfibility, appear at Cadiz to exceed every thing obferved elfewhere; but no where do the fexes feek each L each other with equal eagerness; in no fluence of the climate to easily difarin the feverelt of moralitis. But it is when the folano blows that this impulfe becomes moft impetuous, for then the very air they breathe is on fire, and all the fenfes are involuntarily inebriated; the imagination is bewildered, and an irrefiftible inftinct becomes authorized by example, and is excited by folicita tion. Sea-bathing is much made ufe of by both fexes; and though the place where the women bathe is guarded by cavalry, it is not uncommon for a loyer to deceive the guard by a bafquina or mantilla. In other parts of the town decency is not attended to with much rigidity. The theatre approaches the French flyle. The little comedies, fomewhat licentious, called faynetes, and the lafcivious dances called voleros, after the play, chiefly attract the inhabitants. In the latter, a dancer and his partner come forth from oppofite fides, each in the graceful Andalufian coftume, which feems invented for dancing. The changes in the mufick check the parties juft approaching each other; and when it grows more lirong and more rapid, and the motions of the dancers are redoubled, fuddenly the mufick and the dance flop, and the curtain drops. Thele attitudes are exprefled in 12 plates with the mufick. The gun-boats and the Spanish fleet, potted as far from the town as the ifland, prevent blockading fince 1797: and the winds frequently favour the efcape of veflels. The more the Spaniards become acquainted with the importance of their inland trade, the more jealous they appear of foreign merchants, and the yoke of neceflity through the change of circunftances becomes more and more burdenfome. This averfion, however, is not fhewn fo ftrongly to any nation as to the French, becanfe toward no other do political and religious reasons fo much contribute to that effect. (p. 290-307.) The finall town of Xeres wears the appearance of affluence; the houses are painted white and vellow; the inhabitants are well dretled, especially the women; and the manners, in point of luxury, refemble thofe of Cadiz. The wine of Xeres, fo famous abroad (herry), has, when new, the flavour of Champagne, when old (Xeres feco), it becomes of a darker yellow, and ac quires more body: it then costs here about 3d. (p. 314.) The country is a large but miferable market-town, all the inhabitants of which present an appearance of the moft hideous indigence. The houfes at Ecija, a pretty contiderable town, the houfes of which are painted in a very firangu manner, with dancers, combatants, and people eating, amid bulls, goats, and other quadrupeds, mixed together, in a ground of blue and red, and the whole loaded with gilding. The fame profufion is feen at the public fountains, and in the niches of the faints. Many modern houtes are, however, decorated in a better talte, and the new pofada of the Lion is laid out more commodiously, and with greater elegance. (p. 815.) The interior of Cordova every where fhews the decline and total ceffation of its induttry, which feems confined to a few tan-yards and fome woollen manufactories, efpecially of mule cloths. The long fireets are almoft all deferted, moft of the houfes uninhabited, and its multitude of churches and cloiftets befieged by a crowd of ragged vagabonds. Rents and provifions are very low, and the value of eftates has fallen one-half in the courfe of the century. The wo men have frether complexions than at Cadiz, but are far from being fo elegantly dreffed. The fall grove of orange-trees near the antient cathedral, built in the Moorish fiyle, quite fafcinated us, for I had never seen so many fine orange-trees together: they feemed loaded with golden apples. (p. 317.) At Anduxar, that eternal feat of putrid fevers, we took leave of the Guadal quivir, and began to afcend the Sierra Morena, near Baylen, an antient village to the left on a fleep height. At Guarda Romana, generally pronounced Guarroman, we were agreeably furprized to fee the houses of freelione and well built, and inhabited in great measure by Germans. Carolina, the metropolis of all the colonies on the Sierra MoreDa, and in the midst of it, has firaight ftreets and a number of well-built houfes; but a certain air or melancholy in the general appearance recalls fome painful remembrances of the difap pointment of the colonists, and the population is now by putrid fevers reduced to about 2000. The plains at the bottom of the Sierra in general exhibit forfaken paftures, ruined and deferted villages; the clinate becomes more clergy will here, as elsewhere, be done away, and Valencia will be the fource of new lights to all the other provinces The women are inconteffably the bandfomett in all Spain; and Valencia is certainly the nioft agreeable town and the best winter residence in Spain. (p. 318-339.) At Murviedro (the antient Suguntum) the theatre extends in a grand and magnificent manner along a mountain, on the fummit of which are the ruins of an antient cafile. It formerly held 9000 Spectators; and, about 10 years ago, was begun to be cleared for modern reprefentation, when the war broke out. The circus is also exifting, but lets entire. At the little town of Nulis we were allowed each his bottle at frefeo, made of cork, covered with pitch and tar, for drawing water, and keep more rough and changeable, the antient manners and the Arabic architecture have disappeared, the dreffes of the inhabitants are rough and dirty, their countenances lefs beautiful, and the women have an air of lefs atlability and more indifference. The wine of Valdepenas is the beft in La Mancha, whole plains are much devaftated. At Pena del Paffo every thing changed its appearance; and at Fuente de la Higuera the fertility of the country announced the vicinity of the fine province of Murica, which we here enter. The roads that lead thro' this immenfe, this enchanting garden, are the finest in Spain. Magnificent bridges, wellfituated ventas, beautiful houfes on the road-fide, the variety of the landfcape, the gaiety of husbandmen, every thing combines to make the traveller forget the fatigue and the diftance of his jouring it cool, having on the fide a finall ney. Add to this the animated manners of the inhabitants, which give life to this enchanting scene. (p. 826.) At three Spanish leagues from Valencia the numerous villages announce the greatest affluence, while in the fuburbs the filk hanging in flocks, the noife of the looms, the great number of fhops and public-houfes, little carts, onehorfe chaifes, and the general bustle and tumult, announced that great city, which contains about 100,000 inhabitants, and is fituated in a plain on the banks of the Guadalaviar, and furrounded by a very high wall. The houfes lofty and moftly in the antient ftyle, but clean and convenient. The churches covered with grotesque paintings reprefenting the miracles of the faints. The climate is extremely mild, and almost through the year the air is extremely pure, the fky always ferene, and the temperature perfectly pleafant. From the tower of the cathedral, or the Miguelete, you have an enchanting profpect of the city. To render the road lefs dangerous and fubject to thipwreck, a mole is building, but illconducted, by French labourers. The character of the inhabitants is mild and amiable, and they have more wit and talent in converfation than I had as yet remarked in Spain. Its charming climate is well calculated to awaken genius. No province has produced fo many painters; nor are there anywhere fo eftablishments for the advancemany ment of the arts and fciences. In the general change which is preparing in Spain, the oppreffion of the nobles and but very long pipe, made expreffly to drink out of, and held fome inches from the mouth. Our landlady placed befide us while we dined a little girl to drive away the flies with a brush of esparto, adorned with gold taffels. Government have taken meatures to remedy the unwholefome mode of rice cultivation; and, fince the abolition of that act, population has almost doubled. The beauty of the women of Alcala di Sibert is commended not without reafon. To Vinaros the country is illcultivated, or defart. Here is fpoken the Catalan, a dialect fimilar to that of Navarre. San Carlos has been built only 18 years, but the project of Alfaques failed for want of money. The country about Ampofia, Perellos, and the pafs of Bulaguer is very indifferent. Hofpitalete is romantically fituated. The fmall-pox was treated with fuccefs by expofing the patient to the fresh air. At Cambrils the most luxuriant fertility fucceeded among plantations of vines, carob fruit, and olives. Thefe carobs or algaras are long black hufks, containing a brown and fweetish pulp, with which mules and cattle are fed. They are extremely nourishing, and are faid to give the mules more ftrength to bear fatigue. Tarragona is a fmall town, with fome pretty houfes, and wears the appearance of affluence, and is kept alive by the noife of coopers, and will be defended by a mole when finished. At Torre del Embar, furrounded by vines, olive and ng trees, the houfes are elegantly painted; and the little bay was full of fifhing-boats. At At Villa Franca high chains of mountains afcended before them, and the country became more populous and better cultivated as they approached Barcelona by a fine avenue of poplars and a caufeway. This great city, which contains above 100,000 inhabitants, is full of dark narrow fireets, continually interfecting each other, but kept tolerably clean, and lighted at night throughout the year. The houfes are lofty, heavy, and painted of various colours. A crowd of profeffions and trades, the journeymen of which work in open thops as at Marseilles, numerous goods expofed to fale, and the charming Catalonian women in the fore ground, contribute to give intereft to the Icene. There is no want of prome nades. The generals and officers who furrendered Fort Figueras to the French were very clofely confined. Our traveller acquits them of treafon, or fecret orders from the court, but thinks it more probable that fome mifunderflanding, and the influence of their wives, inay have been the fole caufes of this furrender. The pafleo de la Rambla is the beft fireet and a promenade. The coftume of Barcelona has fomething peculiar which characterifes it. Both the men and the women have a robuft make; and their muscles, their features, and their whole appearance, fhew a vigorous conftitution. The women, without poflefling the graces of the Valencians, have their clear complexions, are graver and prouder, and equally good housewives. The men have an uprightness equal to that of the Swifs, and the fame love of liberty. They have inherited the noble fpirit and bravery of their ancetiors, whofe arms they retain. In general, Catalonia feems to be the great fcene of Spanith generofity. The Catalonian piques hinifelf on a mortal hatred to the French, has a marked predilection for the English and Germans; and the conjectures of hiftorians on this fubject are realized in a manuer highly flattering to the travellers of these two nations. Their manners and mode of life feem rather to harmonize with thofe of Italy than of France. Every thing fhews the influence of climate, remarked among oriental nations. Here are a vaft number of literary and induftrious establishments. Nothing is wanting as to the means of fupporting life. Wine, in confequence of the high duties, is dearer here than at Madrid. Confidering the union of fo many political, commercial, and focial advantages, Barcelona wouldfeen the refidence to be recommended to foreigners, in preference to all other towns in Spain, if good Spanish were fpoken there. It is true it is spoken in the chancery and among the higher orders; but the language of the generality is a jargon a good deal refembling that of Provence, and in which the pronunciation and terminations of Spanifh and French words are often confufed and mutilated in a strange manner. A vafi number of fhort plays or farces, called faynetes, are written in this dialet, which adds much to their comic effect. (p. 340-371.) Being an Aufirian, M. F. was refufed a pafs through France, and obliged to return by Genoa, where we quit him, much pleated with his account of a country with which we have always exprefled our wifh to be better acquainted; and regretting that he did not prefix a map of his tour, however fmall, as he has added particular directions to the feveral travellers. 2. Travels in the Crimes. A History of the Embally from Petersburg to Conftanti nople in 1793 including their Journey 1brough Krementfchuck, Oczakow, Walachis, and Moldavia, with their Reception at the Court of Selim III. By a Secretary to the Ruthan Embassy. THE intermediate tract between Ruffia and Turkey long remained (carce objects of curiotity. Our firft acquaintance with it in this century began with Lady Craven (vol. LIX. p. 238.) The anonymous fecretary to the Ruffian embally writes, as he travels, with rapidity permitting only a tranfient view." His journey in the interior of the Crimea, was performed in he takes care not to tell how many days, and defcribed in about 50 pages; and he gives no map to bring us acquainted with the modern face of a country difmembered from the Turkish and annexed to the Rullian empire. Prince Potemkin is buried at Cherfon; and fo is our countryman Howard; but of the latter not the finalleft notice is taken. Our traveller went through Moldavia and Walachia to Petersburg, got his appointment, fet off with the ambaffador, reached Conftantinople, defcribes the ceremonies of introduction and the civilities of feftivity, and returned through the fame countries, which he had |