murdering and impaling Secocoeni's poor women and children.

There were numbers of Basutos in to witness the "Umhosi,'

and they never having seen British soldiers were very much astonished. We also noticed the head Induna from Swasiland and his followers. We tried hard on several occasions to pump the latter on their mission, but without much effect, but we are sure they are now English.

We left Pretoria about the end of May by the Middleburgh road, making a detour to obtain passes at half-price. In Middleburgh we met some German wood waggons returning to Pongolo, and fortunately obtained passages.

Our king seemed perfectly satisfied with our report, and presented us each with ten head of cattle.

The conduct of the troops had been all that could be desired, and the inhabitants appeared in every way satisfied with their presence.

Nothing but the firm attitude of Sir T. Shepstone could at this moment have saved Pretoria from a civil war and its consequences. The Zulus who were in the employ of civilians simultaneously left the city and congregated in a neighbouring valley, where they came to the determination to attack the Boers, in defence of their Father (the Administrator). They were employed in sharpening their assegais and other preparations to pay their old masters out, and but for Sir T. Shepstone's influence, bloody scenes would assuredly have been enacted in this city.

The value of property in Pretoria has risen about 400 per cent. during the last two months, clearly demonstrating the unceasing confidence in our occupation. Previous to the proclamation, whereby it was placed under our flag, no taxes had been paid, and consequently no salaries received by public officials. When the Administrator requested to know what

XXIV.]

SALTED MULES.

245

more there was in the public chest, he was told that it had all been lent upon good interest by the treasurer, but would be paid back as soon as received. I understand that the whole sum which could be credited to the public use did not amount to more than a few pounds sterling while the debts and obligations were very considerable, and the credit nil. To set the State going, a loan of money was a positive necessity.

Having made all possible arrangements for the present at Pretoria I was desirous of visiting the Eastern frontier of the Transvaal, especially the Gold Fields, and on the 21st of June we left for Middleburgh.

Starting in the afternoon, we only reached Bothu, and the following evening we slept at Forster's-where one of our best mules succumbed. His body was drawn into the veldt by the remainder of the team as the dead horse is dragged out of the Corrido del Toro at Madrid. This was a great loss to us, as the price demanded for mules in this neighbourhood was too high to justify me in purchasing another. At the neighbouring farm at Lumbengs they askel 1007. for a pair, and beyond Middleburgh 1507. These mules possessed an advantage, especially for this country, which very much enhanced their value; they had undergone the process of salting, which signified that they had each had the horse sickness, from which they had successfully recovered. Thus, they were almost safe from a future attack of that disease, and their value was trebled by the fact.

On the 23rd we reached Middleburgh, and remained there during the following day. In the afternoon we drove over to one of the largest and most interesting mission stations in South Africa. Botse Bello is situated about eight miles north of Middleburgh, the river having to be crossed on leaving the town.

CHAPTER XXV.

BOTSE BELLO.

THE first object which met our view on leaving the station of Botse Bello was a beautiful church, surpassing anything to be seen not merely in the Transvaal, but in any part of the colonies, with the exception perhaps of Cradock. Around it were some excellent houses, with orchards and gardens of considerable extent and trees heavy with fruit; below was a walled native town, with three or four watch towers to command the approaches, the river winding underneath.

The residence of Mr. Marensky, the superintendent, is a charming house with fine rooms. I very much regretted his absence we were informed by his lady that he was employed on a tour in the Zoutspanberg district.

We visited the military works which he had caused to be erected on the hill above the town. They were excellently planned and of considerable extent, and evinced a great knowledge of military science.

I was of opinion that Mr. Marensky had shown great foresight in these precautions, for, in the state into which the country had drifted through the miserable incompetence of the late Government, it was impossible to guess the day or even the hour when an attack might be expected from the Zulus or the Amaswasi.

But in making these works, a large amount of instruction had been conveyed to the natives, who appeared not to have been slow in availing themselves of it; for I was given to under

XXV.]

A MISSIONARY SETTLEMENT.

247

stand that Johannes, who successfully withstood the attack upon his kraal by the Boers in Secocoeni's country, had been for a considerable time at Marensky missionary station, and had there gained the knowledge he used to fortify his town.

Around the church there were shops for all trades. Blacksmiths, masons, carpenters, and numerous natives had profited by them. Large farming operations were being carried on; many hundreds of acres were carefully walled in; in fact, Botse Bello had advanced far beyond what I had previously seen or expected. We visited the native huts, which were well built and scrupulously clean, with nicely arranged courtyards to each. The number of children was quite extraordinary, and evinced the prosperity of the station.

I understood the work to be conducted upon a system of sharing the profit, a very considerable portion going to the superintendent for the expenses of the institution.

This, then, seemed to be the correct method of civilising the natives; first causing them to know their wants, and then teaching them how to supply them. I could not doubt that Mr. Marensky must be a man of great energy, or fail to wish him the success which he so well deserves. I think that if such a system were adopted in all missionary stations as those at Alice and Botse Bello, more speedy results as to Christianity and civilisation would be the consequence. They are founded upon principles which appear to me to appeal to common sense rather than to the ideal; the first being within the range of the mind of the savage, the second elevated beyond him.

Middleburgh, formerly called Nazareth, shows evident signs of becoming a large town in the future. The Boers are very fond of Scriptural names, and it seems a pity that the title of this town was altered, though its present name is appropriate, as there can be little doubt but that it will become the centre of a thriving district.

Property is increasing in value here with marvellous

rapidity. I was shown one farm but a short distance from the town, for which the owner, a resident in Middleburgh, had a few months ago refused 12007. He had purchased this farm three years before for three bottles of brandy and a bag of sugar and coffee!

At Middleburgh we made the acquaintance of Mr. Essell, who was in Government employment. His anecdotes regarding the northern portion of the Transvaal and the Zoutspanberg were very interesting. He said that when residing on the northern border, Paul Kruger being in command, the natives in large numbers surrounded a well-built village containing a considerable number of houses and many stores. A black spokesman advanced and told him that by Monday next every soul must leave the village, as they intended to burn it down. This being, as he said, on a Saturday, they had not much notice of the coming destruction of their property.

The Kafirs, however, evidently meant what they said. They were in war paint and armed, performing their war dances, brandishing and hurling their assegais. The inhabitants appealed to Paul Kruger, who said he was powerless to assist them; that he had not sufficient force at his command to ensure their protection, and that they had better pack up their effects as soon as they could, and be ready to start; and if they wished. to accompany him they must be prepared to move on Monday morning. On Saturday and Sunday they packed all their things in waggons, the natives sitting round the town, drumming, but not interfering. On Monday morning the people assembled in the market-place,-the savages watching them from the neighbouring hills,-and started for the lower country, leaving their houses and gardens and such stores as they had not been able to pack up. No sooner had they left the village than the savages rushed upon it, each with a lighted brand, and before they were many yards away the town was but a heap of ashes. He said that this wanton assault