NOTICE.

THE volume here offered to the Public contains some

account of a very curious country, which notwithstanding its ready accessibility is little known in England. The author was compelled, at a short notice, to seek refuge from the inclemency of an English winter and spring; and while profiting by the genial climate of North Africa, endeavoured to turn his banishment from England to such account as was possible for a convalescent. Much remains unnoticed to reward the curiosity of an ordinary traveller at the cost of very little hardship or danger.

a

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

PAGE

Voyage from Marseilles-Optical Phenomenon-Algiers from

the Sea-Mixed Population-Hotels of Algiers-Extensive

View-Accommodation for Invalids—Climate of Algiers-

Mildness of Winter-South Winds the coldest-Advantages

of Oran.

1

CHAPTER II.

Town of Algiers—Traces of Roman Town-Limit of its Size-

Ancient Remains excavated—The Fauxbourg Bab-Azoun-

Moorish Streets--Interior of Houses-Splendour of Interiors

-Specimens still existing-The Kazbah of Algiers ruined

in the Invasion—Interior of Mosques-Court of the Kadi-

The Marabouts of Barbary– Their numerous Tombs-Growth

of Legends-Endowment of Chapelries—Impoverished Popu-

lation-Mosque of Sidi Abd-er-Rahman-Garden of Marengo

- Monuments to Napoleon — Distaste of the natives for

French Civilisation—Theatre and Club

13

CHAPTER III.

Neighbourhood of Algiers-Pointe Pescade-Cape of the Ruins

-Passage round the Cape—Spanish Settlers-Savage Dogs-
Energy of the Clergy-Liberality of first Bishop-Sisters of
Charity-Fever in Summer-Orphan Schools of Agriculture

PAGE

- Protestants and Jews—Moorish Shops—Moorish and Arab

Head-dresses-Oppression of Jews-- Ritual of Jews—Varied

Type of Face-Singular Custom perhaps of Pagan Origin-

The Aissaoua-Descendants of the Psylli - Are professed

Exorcists, but really Jugglers-Serpent Eaters-Are still

believed in

37

CHAPTER IV.

Ascent of the Sahel-Ruined Moorish Villas--Bouzarieh-

Peninsula of Sidi Ferudje — The French Invasion, how

effected-Arab Cavalry-Battle of Staoueli-Battle of Sidi

Kalif-Plateau of Fontaine Chapelle-Disordered Advance of

the French-Arab Communism-Valley of the Consuls-El

Biar-Attack of the Fort of the Emperor-Surrender of

Algiers.

62

CHAPTER V.

Moorish Cemeteries destroyed— Road-making of the French

across the Sahel-Birkadem—Roads across the Metidja-

Want of Stone-Botanical Garden-Cultivation of Sugar-

Line of Military Camps--Clerical Establishments-Failure of

Agricultural Colony--Disgraceful Conduct of Land Jobbers-

Ford of the Harash-Scarcity of Fuel-Rovigo and L'Arbâ—

Orange Groves-Cultivation of the Metidja—. Agricultural

Returns-Fever prevalent at L'Arbâ-Causes of Unhealthy

Villages-A Fatal Invention--Landlords and Tenants-Capi-

talists of Algiers--A Model Tenant-Fonduck---A perfectly

happy Man-Predominance of Spaniards--Schools at Fon

duck-Extensive Cultivation-Wild Boars-An Arab Prison

-Irrigated Gardens

79

PAGE

-

-

Teniat - View from the Teniat — Tomb of the Queen a
Mauritanian Monument—Visit to Great Kabylie-Cross the
Metidja-Wild Beasts–Market on the Isser-Marshy Plains

Caravanserais — Hospitable Frenchmen — Valley of the

Sebaou-Fort of Tizi-Ouzou-Kabyle Farming-Subjugation

of Kabylie-Market of Tizi-Ouzou—A Frank Marabout-

Military Tenure of Land-Quarrels of the Kabyles-Their

Original Stock—Their Government—Their Personal Character

-French Troops in Bivouack-Their Order and Helpfulness

-Admirable Discipline of a part of the Army-Military

Punishment-Note on Kabyle Language .

111

CHAPTER VII.

-

The Western Province-Coasting Voyage View of Coast-

Harbourless Sea—View of Cherchell-Its Capture by the

French-Tenez-Coast of the Dahra-Arrival at Oran-Its

Acquisition by France Uncertain Policy of the Government

-Evil of Concessions—Population of Oran-Geological Cha-

racter of the Neighbourhood of Oran-Resemblance to the

Sahel-Life on the Borders—Hospitality of French Officers-

Journey to Tlemcen-Savageness of an Arab Tribe-Horrible

Route - African Charioteering-Occupation of Tlemcen —

Frontier Warfare—Rough-handed Justice—The Mechouar of

Tlemcen-Rise of Abd-el-Kader-Abd-el-Kader at Tlemcen-

The French break with him-Defeat at the Makta-Espedi-

tion to Maskara - Disastrous Retreat - Cavaignac in the

Mechouar-His heroic Bravery and Magnanimity-Destruc-

tion of Tlemçen-Remains of Native Town-Magnitude of

Ancient City-The Mansourah-Walls of Artificial Concrete

-Traces of former Greatness- Arab Hockey–Tomb of Sidi-

Bou-Medine-Arab School-Government Breeding Stable-

Diet of Barbary Horses—Their special Merits-Ain-Temou-

chent-Lions and Panthers-Copper Mines of Sebdou . . 152

CHAPTER VIII.

Journey to Maskara—Failure of Communistic Experiment-

Approach to Maskara—Trade of Maskara-Growth of the
Vine-Delays in Administration—Route to Mostaganem-
High Plateaux of Limestone-Descent on El Borj - Reception