164 EXPLORING THE EDGE OF THE PACK. [CHAP.

mountains were so covered with fog, that it was impossible to ascertain the distance, or even what part of it we saw.

"No land that I have ever seen is so difficult to know (the particular spot of it) as Spitzbergen, as it alters so much when the snow melts or increases.

The most remarkable points, and those whose latitude and longitude we determined, were Hak'uyt's Headland and the Cloven Cliff or Devil's Rock; the former of which at two in the morning we saw bearing S.S.E., distant eight leagues, at which time, being close to the body of the ice, we tacked, and stood in for the land.

"On July 24th we had, for the most part, a light breeze of wind easterly, and sometimes south-easterly; this enabled us to stand on and off the ice, looking for an opening in much the same place as we had been before, observing scarcely any variation in the position of the ice from what it was the first day of our falling in with it. The first clear day I mean!

VII.] SHIP ROUGHLY HANDLED BY THE ICE. 165

"At seven o'clock, Cloven Cliff bearing south distant six or seven leagues, we sounded in 210 fathoms, muddy bottom.

"Between two and three in the morning, a large swell got up from the southward, and so must have conspired to drive the ice bodily away, as we found on the 25th that we ran a long way to the eastward.

"At noon we were in latitude, by observation, 80° 15'.

"At three and four in the afternoon, we were twice within the distance of a throw of a biscuit from the body of the ice, which appeared as firm and solid as before; but between nine and ten, having run about thirty miles S. E. by S. by compass, we observed a small opening into which there was just room enough to bowse her, which we immediately did, and remained there till twelve; during which time she received some very hard blows, and much oftener than we had yet experienced, as the ice, though loose, was very thick.

"The shocks she received may be easily

166

SEVERE COLLISION WITH THE ICE. [CHAP.

conceived when it is known that, whilst sailing at the rate of six knots an hour, she fell right stem on with a large piece, this not only deadened or stopped her way entirely, but gave her stern way withal! At midnight we were obliged to go about our business, and make the best of our way out of it, as a run of three miles brought us again close to the solid body of the ice, and convinced us that what we had seen was only some of the rottenest part driven off either by wind or current.

"A fair wind soon brought us clear, in which state we remained only two hours (having run from the place we were last in about three leagues south-east), for the ice to the eastward looking loose, we entered.

"The weather being thick, attended with small rain, prevented our being able to see very far.

1 This event is also mentioned in Captain Phipps' narrative:-"Struck very hard against the ice in getting the ship round, and got upon one piece, which lifted her in the water for near a minute, before her weight broke it."

vii.] A MCRE CHEERING PROSPECT.

167

"The ice was thick and large, and made the navigation difficult, but it gradually decreased in quantity, till noon of the 26th, when we had little or none about us; a fine clear sea appeared to the N.N.E., and, notwithstanding our rough usage in the hard thumping of the night before, made us extremely happy."

CHAPTER VIII.

A MIDSHIPMAN'S NARRATIVE (continued).

"On the 26th we were pretty nearly as far east as Moffin's Island,1 which we now saw on the starboard bow about four miles off, and further than which no man, who speaks truth, ever was!

"'Tis true for the advantage of sale, a northern sea chart may be seen that marks lands, bays, and harbours, not only to the eastward of this place, but all round Spitzbergen, laying it down as an island. However, nothing is so clear as that nobody ever was farther east. For if they had been, they, in conjunction with many others, would have given to the Lords of the Admiralty the journals of their voyages in which they did it, as

1 A small island off the north coast of Spitzbergen.