Both the above-mentioned rivers, and also several of the smaller streams, are crossed by well-built bridges, which, with few exceptions, have been erected during the present reign, or, more properly speaking, while the present minister, Sir Jung Bahadur, has been in power. These bridges are all built upon massive sal piles and cross beams, also of sal, on which is laid a strong road of brickwork, with a parapet of about two or three feet in height.

The valley is almost entirely under cultivation, and, as irrigation is much employed, its surface is almost never destitute of a crop of some sort. From the eastern extremity of the valley a road passes through a rocky defile leading to a long narrow valley called Banēpa; and from this another road leads southwards across the hills to the town and valley of Panowti, which can also be reached by a path from the main valley across the northern shoulder of Phulchowk. Both these valleys are fertile and well-cultivated. The streams which water them run to the east and join the Kūsi.

At the western end of the valley are two deep valleys, the Dhūni and Kolpū Biyasi. The former is the more southerly of the two, and is on a much lower level than Kathmandu. The streams from these valleys run to join the Gunduk.

From the north-east path runs across Kukani. to Gorkha and to Tibet. a magnificent view of the Himalaya snowy range is obtained, the foreground being occupied by numerous minor ranges, some of which too are always snow-capped, and between which lie several large, fertile, well-watered valleys.

corner of the valley a rugged This is the main road leading From the summit of the pass

The principal peaks of the snowy range seen from Kukani are: Mount Everest, 29,000 feet; Gosain Than, 26,000 feet; Yasa and Mutsipūtra, 24,000 feet; and the so-called Diwalgiri, 26,800 feet. There are many intermediate peaks, and on a favourable day the snow may be seen from Kinchinjunga on the east to Diwalgiri on the west, stretching over at least 120 degrees of the horizon.

The principal valleys seen from the pass are the Liku and Taddi Kholas and the valley of Noakōt. Through the latter runs the Trisul Gunga, a large and rapid stream, afterwards known as the Gunduk. All these valleys are fertile and well cultivated, and being much lower than the valley of Nepal are of course warmer, and produce in abundance all the fruits found in the plains of Hindustān.

No Europeans are allowed to cross the Trisul Gunga, though there is an excellent bridge about four miles from the town of Noakōt.

On reaching the top of the Chandragiri pass, a stranger is at once impressed with an idea of the denseness of the population of the valley. Besides three large towns, which are conspicuous objects in the view, there are many smaller towns and innumerable hamlets, studded all over the higher grounds and slopes of the hills; and in addition to these, in almost every field there appears to be a cottage. The natives themselves estimate the population of the valley at about half a million, and probably this is not far from the truth.

The names of most of the towns and villages will be mentioned in the history, so it is only necessary here

to give a short description of the present condition of a few of the most important.

Kāṭhmānḍū, the capital of Nepāl, stands near the centre of the valley, in Lat. 27°42′N., and Long. 85°36′E. It is situated at the junction of the Bagmati and Vishnumati rivers, but lies closer to the latter, extending along its eastern bank for about a mile. When seen from above, its shape is very irregular, but it is said by the natives to resemble the Khora or sword of Devi. It is known by several names, such as Yindēsi, Kāntipur, and Kāṭhmāḍū or Kāṭhmānḍū. It is said to have been founded by Rajā Gunakāmadeva, in the Kaligat year 3824 (A. D. 723).

The town is built on no regular plan; but the main street may be said to run nearly north and south, and it is crossed at various angles by several others, while between these is a network of narrow dark lanes. The population, including that of the suburbs, is stated at 50,000, but probably 30,000 would be nearer the truth. The houses are from two to four stories high, and are all built of brick and tiled, except in the suburbs, where the roofs are of thatch. The better class of buildings is elaborately ornamented with plaster and paintings, and the houses in general possess large projecting wooden windows or balconies, which are richly carved. Some of the windows represent a peacock with outspread tail others contain groups of figures of gods, men, griffins, horses, birds, lizards, etc., and are surrounded by garlands of flowers. The carving, as a rule, is bold and wellexecuted, but the best specimens are to be found on the older buildings, as the taste for it seems to be dying out. In several parts of the town there are small open spaces, paved like the streets with brick and stone. In

these the markets are held, and in the mornings they are quite gay with the flowers, fruit and vegetables exposed for sale.

In the centre of the town stands the Mahārājā's palace, which is a huge, rambling, ungainly building. Part of it is very old, built in pagoda fashion and covered with elaborate and grotesque carvings. Other parts of it, such as the Durbar-room, have been built within the last ten years and possess glass windows, which are rare in Nepāl, being found only in the houses of the wealthiest. In the square in front of the palace are numerous handsome temples. Many of these are like pagodas, of several stories in height, and profusely ornamented with carvings1, painting, and gilding. The roofs of many of them are entirely of brass or copper gilt, and along the eaves of the different stories are hung numerous little bells, which tinkle in the breeze. At some of the doorways are placed a couple of large stone lions or griffins, with well-curled manes, which remind one strongly of the figures found at Nineveh. Another description of temple is built of stone with pillars and a dome. Though less ornamented and less picturesque, this style is far more graceful than the other. Close to the palace, on the north, is the temple of Talēju, one of the largest of the pagoda type. It is said to have been built by Rājā Mahindra Malla, about A. D. 1549. It is devoted entirely to the use of the royal family. In front of several of the temples are tall monoliths, some surmounted by figures of old Rājās, who founded the temples, others by the winged

1 It is unfortunate that the carving on many temples and powahs, and sometimes even on private houses, contains most obscene groups of figures. I have never been able to get any reason assigned for this filthy custom, except that such figures are supposed to protect the buildings from being struck by lightning.