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RELICS OF ROB ROY.

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safety of their windows. Though little more than a century has elapsed since his death, yet Rob Roy has even now become a mythic hero. Near Bunawe, for example, an enormous boulder, weighing many tons, is pointed out to the Saxon tourist, by his Celtic guide, as Rob Roy's Putting-Stone.'

Of course the Inversnaid district has not only its legends, but also its relics of the Highland outlaw, wherewith to satisfy the inquiring traveller. One cottage is pointed out as the birthplace of Helen Macgregor, the wife of Rob Roy: and in another is shown a Spanish-barrelled gun, which is said to have belonged to the outlaw. A similar gun is shown in the armoury at Abbotsford. It is marked with the letters R. M. C.,' for Robert Macgregor Campbell; and, after belonging to Rob Roy, was used by his youngest son Robin Oig for the murder of MacLaren, who had settled on his mother's land. The gun was taken from Robin Oig when he was apprehended for the murder; and after remaining in the possession of the magistrates was made over to Sir Walter Scott.

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From the neighbourhood of Inversnaid Fort there is little to call for notice until Loch Arclet is gained; and even then, with greater attractions in view, this little Loch only meets with a passing attention. It is the . feeder of that picturesque stream whose course we have followed from its final leap into Loch Lomond at Inversnaid, and its dark waters mirror wild and barren hills. The coach road passes at a slight distance from the northern shore of the Loch, and presently meets another road which strikes off to the right, and takes the tourist by the back of Ben Venue, and the romantic scenery of Lochs Chon and Ard, by the falls of Ledard, and the gnarled oak tree on which Bailie Nicol Jarvie hung by

the skirts of his coat, and on to the Pass and Clachan of Aberfoyle, where the new hotel, The Bailie Nicol Jarvie,' will offer him all he can desire in the way of shelter and refreshment, after his toils in exploring ROB ROY'S COUNTRY.

CHAPTER XXI.

LOCH KATRINE AND ELLEN'S ISLE.

Ancient and Modern Caterans-Stronachlachar Hotel-Coal-
barns Pier-The Kernes and Freebooters-Government Pro-
ceedings-Rob Roy's Castle and Prison-Raid upon Graham
of Killearn-The Influence of Poetry-Publication of "The
Lady of the Lake'-Its effect upon the District described-
The Guides and their Tales-Stale Quotations-What can be
done?—The Sandwich Style of Writing-A Surfeit of Scott-
Gushing Young Ladies Mr. Dundreary and Mr. Testy-
Spouting-Ellen's Isle-Its Bower-An Island Jewel-Tra-

ditions.

WE

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E have not altogether left Rob Roy's country when we approach the shores of Loch Katrine. Indeed, the very name of the Lake may remind us of the Caterans, or bold outlaws, who once haunted its shores

But hosts may in these wilds abound,
Such as are better miss'd than found;
To meet with Highland plunderers here
Were worse than loss of steed or deer.

Although Sir Walter makes these lines to refer to the

* Such, at least, is the signification given to the word by Sir Walter Scott, in his notes to The Fair Maid of Perth; and Macculloch so calls it-Loch Cateran. In Sir Robert Gordon's map (1653), the name is spelt Kennerin; and also in Alexander Gordon's 'Itinerarium' map, in 1727. In the Traveller's Guide through Scotland (1818), the second volume contains a large map (14 by 16 in.) of 'A Guide to Loch Catherine and Loch Lomond,' inscribed, by permission, to Walter Scott, Esq. Alexander Campbell (1802) calls it Loch Kaitrin. The author of the Memoir in The Trial of the Sons of Rob Roy (1818) calls it Loch Kettern.

predatory habits of past times, yet it is quite possible that they may appear to some Highland tourists as prophetic of the plundering propensities of the hosts of the various hotels and inns which, since Scott's day, and mainly through his writings, have sprung up along the well-known routes. These hotels are sometimes so elaborately built, that they look quite imposing structures; and the traveller will perhaps find their exterior appearance a key to their internal charges-though, on the whole, my experience went to prove the contrary.

At any rate, when we are at the Stronachlachar Hotel (which is by no means an imposing structure), we are reminded that we are on the western shore of the Lake of Caterans, and that their bold leader, Rob Roy, bade defiance to his enemies from these rocky fastnesses, which shut him out from all pursuit. As we stand here on the little Coalbarns Pier in front of the inn, we look down the Lake to Ben Venue; and on its shoulder, 800 feet above the water, we can mark the projecting crag of Beal-ach-nam-Bo, or the Pass of the Cattle,' where the Macgregors used to drive their stolen cattle after their raids upon the Lowlands. Down by the shores of Loch Katrine many thousands of mild-eyed kyloes must have looked upon their new masters, and a vast amount of stolen property must have been accumulated. As the Trosachs could only be entered by one narrow and difficult pass, which could easily be defended by a handful of men, and as the rugged country at the western end of Loch Katrine rendered the movements of troops a matter of difficulty, the Kernes and Caterans had it all their own way; and even if pursued to the banks of the Lake, could retreat to its islands, where they could laugh at their boatless enemies. But at length the Government was roused

GOVERNMENT PROCEEDINGS.

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into an endeavour to suppress them; and in 1610 the following proclamation was issued by the Privy Council:

"They have now amassed themselves together, in the isle of the Loch Catrine, which they have fortified with men, victual, powder, bullets, and other warlike furniture, intending to keep the same as a place of war and defence for withstanding and resisting of His Majesty's forces appointed to pursue them. And seeing there is now some solid and substantious course and order set down how these wolves and thieves may be pursued within their own den and hole by the force and power of some of His Majesty's faithful and well affected subjects, who freely have undertaken the service, and will prosecute the same without any private respect or consideration,―necessary it is for the execution of this service that the whole boats and birlings being upon Loch Lomond be transported from the said Loch to the Loch foresaid of Loch Catrine, whereby the forces appointed for the pursuit of the said wolves and thieves may be transported into the said isle, which cannot goodly be done but by the assistance of a great number of people.'

The government expedition was made, and was thoroughly unsuccessful. When they reached Loch Katrine and the island the birds had flown, and taken their plunder with them. So the troops went home again; and as soon as they were clearly off the Caterans' premises, those gentlemen were at their old tricks again, as lively and undaunted as ever.

A shilling or two may be profitably expended by the tourist in taking a boat from the pier and sailing round the headland to the western extremity of the Lake, at the entrance of Glengyle, which, as we have already seen, was a possession of the Macgregors. In this four

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