About this book
My library
Books on Google Play
Scott's Description-The Pencil and the Pen-Pictures by Turner and
others-Spires, Pyramids, Pinnacles, and Minarets-Inaccuracy
and Gothic Images-Pure Ruskinism-A Pathetic Parson-Sunset
at the Trosachs-The Heather-Moonlight-Sublimity und Useful-
ness- -Wordsworth's Sonnet-Ben Aan-The Sketcher's Loss and
Gain
PAGE 245
CHAPTER XXV.
LOCH ACHRAY.
The Trosachs Hotel-Poetic Realities-Increase of Tourists-Fortune's
Favourites-Detriments to an Enchanted Land-The Banquet Hall
-The Puzzled Waiter-Is it Onion ?-Loch Achray-View from
the Hotel-Other Views-Walk along the Shore-The New Church
-Glenfinlas-The Brig o' Turk-Lanrick Mead-The New Hotel
-Loch Vennacher-A good Starting Point
CHAPTER XXVI.
AULD REEKIE.
. 253
First View and Impressions of Edinburgh-First, Second, and Third
Thoughts-A Night View-General Illumination-Auld Reekie-
Present Smells and Past Memories-Knox's House-Grave of
Knox-Moray House—The Mound-Localising Scripture Scenes—
The Judge and the Wild Beasts-St. Giles's Church-Blondin out-
done The Grass Market-The Porteous Mob-The Caddies-
Heriot's Hospital-Other Hospitals-West Bow and Port-Entry
of Charles I.—Major Weir and his Ghostly Revels-The Haunted
House-Burke and Hare . 262
CHAPTER XXVII.
HOLYROOD AND THE CASTLE.
The Castle Barns-Extraordinary Road-making-The Old Milk-woman
and her Evanished House-St. Cuthbert's Church-The Castle
Rock-Early History of Edinburgh-Its Rise and Progress-
Holyrood-Scotch Mariolatry-Picture Gallery-Palace Precincts
-Sanctuary-Royal Debtors-Mons Meg-View from the Castle
-Panoramas of Edinburgh-Ruskin, Scott, and Turner-The
Time-gun
273
CHAPTER XXVIII.
EDINBURGH: THE NEW TOWN.
Princes Street-Royal Raptures-The North Bridge-Fall of the
Bridge-Whitfield and Foote The Parson and the Player—
Waverley Bridge-East Princes Street Gardens-The Scott Monu-
ment-The Self-taught Architect-Characteristic Anecdote-Royal
Institution and Art Galleries-Notes on Art-Pictures by Wilkie
and Etty-'The Combat'-Various Pictures-Noel Paton PAGE 282
CHAPTER XXIX.
THE METROPOLIS OF TARTAN-LAND.
West Princes Street Gardens-Floral and Personal Attractions-Owls
and Hawks-The City of the Wynds and Winds-Sou'-westers in
Princes Street-The Force of the Gal'-Double Shops and their
Peculiarities-Attractiveness of National Articles for Sale-Me-
morials of Tartan-Land-Toys and Dolls-Calton Hill
290
CHAPTER XXX.
NEWHAVEN AND ITS FISHWIVES.
Musselburgh-Fisherrow-Portobello-The Scottish Margate-Bathing
Scenes-Leith-The Landing of a Scottish Queen and English
King - Newhaven - The Fishwives-Heavy Weights — Creeling
Custom-Keeping a Man-Scandinavian Origin―The Old Volun-
teers-The Fishwives' Criticism-Robert Fergusson-Fishwives'
Junkettings-Christie Johnstone '-The Novelist's Fishwives-
Appearance and Costume-Dressed-up Specimens-The Ideal and
the Real
298
CHAPTER XXXI,
IN SEARCH OF CHRISTIE JOHNSTONE.
In search-Coleridge's Jew-The Fishwives' Cry-Heard at Doncaster
-Caller Ou!-Living Specimens-First Acquaintance-Disillusion
-Artistic Draping-A Flemish Study-A Dozen Petticoats-We
never Exposes Oursells!-Marriage Customs-Morals-The Dons
-Cleanliness amid Filth-The Fishwives' Train-The Fishwives
at Church-The Fishwives on their Rounds-Cheapening a Pur-
chase-Ballasting a Fishwife-The Fishwife's Mishap-Whiskey-
drinking-The Cause of Adam's Fall
308
Discovery of Melrose Abbey-A Ready-made Quarry-National Ophthal-
mia-Scott's 'Lay'-A New Shrine for Pilgrim Tourists-De-
tractions of Melrose-The Trimmest of Ruins-A Grumble-
Disappointment-The First Abbey-A Choice of Etymologies-A
Legend of Melrose-Basil and St. Cuthbert-The Second Abbey
and its Fortunes-Edward II. and Robert Bruce
CHAPTER XXXIII.
LAYS AND LEGENDS.
PAGE 320
St. Waltheof and his Miracles-Profitable Embalming-The Legend of
the Heart of Bruce-The Adventures of Sir James Douglas-
Melrose Abbey burnt by Richard II.-Diversities of Opinion-A
New Abbey-A Sisyphæan Task-The Abbey's Vicissitudes-Fair
Maiden Lilliard and her Stumps-Knox and Knocks-Cromwell's
Pummelling The Virgin's Statue saved by a Miracle-Legend of
Stumpy Thomson-Open Foes and False Friends-Monastic
Masons
329
CHAPTER XXXIV.
SIGHTS AND SIGHT-SEERS.
Melrose Abbey Ruins-The Nave-Its state Fifty Years since-The
People and their Privileges-Nob and Snob-Modern Destructives-
An Attendant necessary-Scott's Spoliations-A famous Place for
· Antiquarian Plunder—The Protean Guide-The Shilling Show and
genius loci-The young old Covenanter-The Cloisters-Masonic
Jewels-Devotional Architecture-Petrified Herbs and Flowers-
Transcripts from Nature-Conscientious Art-Bosses and Corbels
-Michael Scott the Wizard-Black and White
CHAPTER XXXV.
SCOTT'S FAVOURITE ABBEY.
339
Ornamentation of Melrose Abbey-The 'East Oriel'-Scott criticised—
Turner and Ruskin-Photography's Check upon the Painter-
Legend of the 'Prentice Window-Scott's Mythical Moonlight View
-Mrs. Stowe and other Visitors-Old John Bower and his Notable
Device-His topsy-turvy View-An Acrobatic Feat-Old Tomb-
stone-An Anti-Knoxian Minister of Melrose-Tom Purdie's
Tomb-A Faithful Servant
349
CHAPTER XXXVI.
ABBOTSFORD.
The Scottish Mecca-Tourists and Sights-Black-Mail Gratuities—
Views of Abbotsford-Turner's Painted Romance-Sir Walter's
Whim-Environs of Abbotsford-Cartley Hole-Its Purchase by
Scott-Fact and Fiction-The Duke of Darnick-The Mansion
swallows the Cottage-All Work and no Play-Annoyance of
keeping open House-The two lame Poets and their Activity-The
last Illness-A good Man's last Words-At the Gate of Abbotsford
-Inside Off our Heads-Impracticable Mnemonics-Water on the
Brain-Who can describe it?—The Study-Sir Walter's Chair and
Clothes
PAGE 358
CHAPTER XXXVII.
ROSLIN CHAPEL.
Scott's Cottage at Lasswade-His Friends and Pursuits-Rosabelle' and
the 'Lay'-Attractions of Roslin-Roslin Strawberries-A Roslin
Excursion Fifty Years ago-Something to suit all Tastes-Historical
and Legendary Associations-Mr. Gladstone's Cerberean View-
The Chapel-The Guide The North Front-The Interior-
Poetical Architecture-Thoughts in Stone-Billings' Views-
Father Hay's Sketches-Grose's Method of cooking a Sketch-
Sculptured Foliage-Variety in Design-Singular Ornamentation
-The Lady Chapel-Its Carvings and Restoration-Roslin Chapel
reopened for Divine Service 370
CHAPTER XXXVIII.
LEGENDARY AND ARCHITECTURAL.
The 'Prentice Pillar and its Legend-Other Derivations-The Lower
Building-Legend of the Supernatural Illumination-The un-
coffined Barons-The Last Laird of Roslin-The Sinclairs and
Freemasonry-The Friend of Bruce-Legend of the White Deer
-Help and Hold—The Guide's Performance-Paul Pry Visitors—
A Decanal Family-Scott-ish Sticklers for the Gothic-Architectural
Purists Coleridge's Five Sights
CHAPTER XXXIX.
ROSLIN CASTLE.
384
Early History of Roslin Castle-Stormy and Palmy Days-The Prince
of Orkney's Court―The Blind Rat and the Whelps-An Accidental
Fire-Position of the Castle-The Ruins-Cardonnel's Etchings-
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER XXXIX.-continued
XV
The Courtyard-The modern House-Its modern Plague-Framed
and Glazed-An uncomplimentary Guide-Avernus-The Baron's
Retainers and their Bedrooms-The Little-ease and Dungeons-
The Garden and Postern-View from the opposite Bank-The Past
and Present
PAGE 397
CHAPTER XL.
ROSLIN GLEN.
Scenery of the Glen-The course of the Esk-The River's Beauties-
Tria juncta in uno-A good Point for a View-Roslin Gipsies- .
Their Patmos-Robin Hood and Little John-The Banks and
Walks-An Impediment-The Caves of Gorton-Wallace's Cave
and Camp-Bilston, to wit-Scott's Opinion
CHAPTER XLI.
HAWTHORNDEN.
407
Hawthornden House in Olden Time-The modern Building-The Drum-
mond Family-Inscriptions-The Cypress Grotto-Drummond the
Poet His Courtly Homage-The Caves at Hawthornden-The
Four Sisters-Ben Jonson's Visit-Politeness in Rhyme-Ben
Jonson's Tour-His lost Manuscript-Drummond's Notes of his
Conversations-Lues Boswelliana-Drummond's estimate of Jonson
-Dr. Johnson and Peter Pindar-Scott and the Copsewood. 414
INDEX
425