LA BELLE ASSEMBLÉE. FASHIONS. For JANUARY, 1808. EXPLANATION OF THE PRINTS OF FASHION No. 1-A MORNING DRESS, A round cambric gown, a walking length, with short full sleeve, and puckered cuff, buttoned or laced down the back, and made high round the neck, with a full frill of lace. A military stock, edged round the chin with the same. A figured Chinese scarf, the colour American green, twisted round the figure in the style of antique drapery. Melon bonnet the same colour, striped, and trimmed to correspond with the scarf. Hair in irregular curls on the forehead. Earrings of gold or topaz. Long York tan, or Limerick gloves, above the elbow. Slippers of yellow Morocco. This dress, divested of the bonnet, is considered genteel neglige for any period of the day. No. 2.-A MORNING WALKING, OR CARRIAGE HABILIMENT. A simple breakfast robe of Indian muslin, or cambric; with plain high collar, and long sleeve. Plain chemisette front, buttoned down the bosom. A Calypso wrap of morone velvet, or kerseymere, trimmed entirely round with white ermine, or swansdown. Spanish hanging-sleeve, suspended from the back, and falling over the left shoulder, terminating in a round point below the elbow. This ornament is lined throughout with skin the same as the trimming. A mountain hat of white imperial beaver, or fur, tied under the chin with a ribband the colour of the coat. Gloves and shoes of American green, or buff. Cropt hair, confined with a band, and curled over the left eye. No. 3. A BALL DRESS IN THE PARISIAN -STYLE. A Neapolitan robe and petticoat, of white, or coloured satin, made quite plain. Armorial vest of white satin, beaded in gold stripes. A cestus d-la-Cleopatra, composed of wrought gold and amethysts. Hanging sleeve, gathered in front of the arm, with brooches of the same. The hair confined from the roots, the ends flowing in irregular curls, leaving the forehead and temples exposed. An Indian casque of tissue, with amethyst ornaments. A long veil of gossamer gause, rounded at the end, and embroidered in a delicate border of silver, or silk, flowing from the centre of the crown, over the right shoulder, and forming a drapery in front of the figure by the attitude of the left hand. Pear ear-rings of amethyst or pearl. Necklace of pearl, with amethyst star in the centre. White satin slippers, edged with silver beading, and white kid gloves above the elbow. GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE MOST ELEGANT AND SELECT FASHIONS FOR THE SEASON. THE multiplicity and variety, beauty and elegance, which distinguish the costume of our British fair, was never more appropriate and becoming than at the present period. The most happy assemblage of the ancient and modern is apparent in almost every article of fashionable decoration. Taste and judgment are in unison with each other, and have selected and combined whatever has appeared most worthy of perpetuity. The cold weather has impelled the adoption of such articles of attire as are calculated to dispense warmth and nourishment. In the theatres, and evenin the drawing-room, the votaries of fashion can no longer boast their wonted display— their courage yields to necessity;-and the scarf, mantie, Indian shawl, and French cloak, now shelters their hitherto exposed shoulders. The endless variety which is exhibited in this and every other article of fashionable attire, will oblige us to a more careful selection of such, as rank the first in taste and elegance. approaches only to the shoulder in front, from whence it flows loose like the Turkish robe, and discovers a waist of the same silver tissue as composes the petticoat, fastened at the bottom with a silver cord and tassels. Slippers of pale orange velvet, with silver rosettes, were worn with this uncommonly elegant habitorange being the colour of which the vest was composed. Zealand robes are another article which exhibits much novel grace. These are composed of black erape, muslin, or Paris net, tamboured in large spots of coquelicot, crimson, or orange. The robe flows open on the left side the figure, and the front breadth being We shall, with our accustomed attention and fidelity, endeavour at a delineation which shall be found worthy the consideration of our fair correspondents. In the articles of mantles and pelisses there is much novelty and elegance; and they are constructed in the most fanciful forms. The simple cardinal and hood are now confined to those females who have passed their meridian. Those worn by the more youthful fair, are usually formed of light green, purple, or morone kerseymere, variously constructed; those termed the Zealand mantle, the Calypso wrap, and the Spanish mantle and spenser, are the most novel, and rank very high on the list of fashionable articles; these mantles are form-rounded, discovers a petticoat of plain white ed with high full collars, and deep pointed capes, somewhat in the style of the ancient hanging-sleeve; and are cut in a fanciful and varied manner in the skirt, so as to wrap in a graceful unstudied style about the figure. They are often trimmed with skin; but a large silk cord, the colour of the mantle, placed at a little distance from the edge, and the points ornamented with tassels to correspond, is considered more chastely elegant. Indeed we think fur is better associated with velvet, satin, or sarsnet. There is not a sufficient degree of contrast between these trimmings and cloth, or kerseymerc-and the silk cords, or Trafalgar trimmings, are a bright relief, and have a more light effect. Fancy furs, and coats of dark morone, are become so general, as to be admitted no place in an elegant selection. In the style of dress gowns, we have a crowd of information; at the head of which may be properly placed robes of superfine cloth, embroidered round the bottom, on the bosom, and sleeves, in wreaths of leaves, composed of shaded velvet. We have seen them of buff, with leaves of shaded purple velvet, each leaf veined to nature. For full-dress, these borders are often of gold or silver, embossed, or in spangles; and a ridicule, fancifully formed of the same material as the robe, and bordered up the seams to correspond, is a general and fashionable appendage. French cloaks or capuchius, the same as the dress, are frequently thrown over the shoulders; and relinquished as occasion may require. The comfort and utility, as well as taste and richness, of these elegant garbs, will ensure them a ready adoption amidst the females of rank and fashion. The Polish vest, formed of the above-mentioned material, and trimmed with skin, worn with a short train-petticoat of silver muslin, or tissue, with correspondent turban à-la-Chinese, is a style of costume particularly attractive and becoming. This vest is not more than a yard in length from the top of the back. It satin, and meeting the other side of the robe, which flows in a square train, is clasped from the waist to the knee with silver or topaz studs. The waist and sleeve of this dress are usually worn plain, and over a satin under-waist. No trimming but Trafalgar, or a border of netting of floss silk. The colour of the spots cau be advantageously associated with this animated and singularly attractive costume. Although white dresses are less general this winter thau we remember them for many years, yet are they not wholly exploded. In the morning habit, they admit of no favourable substitute; and amidst the diversity of coloured robes, which present themselves at dinner and evening parties, we still observe the virgin hue, venturing, like the modest suow-drop, amidst its more splendid companions, and attracting by its own native purity. Gold and silver brocade ribbands are used to ornament these spotless garbs; and a most delicate article in gossamer gauze is formed in draperies over white or coloured satin slips. Both in England and Paris, the hair is variously dispersed, in the antique style, ornamented with coronets, diadems, tiaras of flowers, and bandeaus of gold laurel, and constitute the most fashionable full dress. Iu the morning habit, the net handkerchief, the peasants' hood, and the quartered cap of lace, over white or coloured satin, are more appropriate, and bespeaks that proper distinction which manifests a correct taste. Bonnets and hats are considered most fashionable composed of united kerseymere and velvet, of contrasted shades. They are generally formed to fit the head, and constructed high and full in front. The woodman's hat of Georgian cloth, the colour of the coat or mantle, and trimmed with fur, is both a seasonable and unique appendage to the out-door costume. French pokes of grey velvet, and fluted satin, constructed so as to shade one side of the face, exposing the adverse ear, and confined under the chin with velvet cut in the form of a handkerchief, an impression which time can never efface, noe absence render less lively. Remember, therefore, dear friend, that I consider myself eugaged to you by the sacred claims of affection, in any way that I can be serviceable to you. On this principle I shall consider myself musĖ pleasantly employed in selecting your bride! paraphernalia; for as I read of your hero's return to England with added laurels, I conclude it will not be long ere they are blended with the roses of love, and offered a willing sacrifice at the altar of HYMEN -Be sure let me hear in due time when this prodigious event is likely to take place!I love dearly to choose wedding clothes. There is a sort of pleasant association in the mind, when engaged in this employ, oc casioned possibly by the enlivening hope that our turn may come next! Ah! Heaven only knows when my turn will come! for, as I told you in my last-I am very nice-and good men, you know, were ever a rare commodity! Nor have I seen one to please me better than cousin John-who, though very fashionable, and quite a man of the world, yet unites that rare assemblage of sensibility, principle, and worth. is considered an article of great style and cle- || rience, and endeared by early love, have fixed gance. Fancy hats, of the Spanish or turban form, composed of silver embossed satin or tissue, with Angola feathers of an orange colour, are often seen, both in public theatres and in evening parties. The Argus feather also sometimes ornaments the hair; and placed in the form of a band, has a unique and attractive effect. There are some few articles in the style of trinkets, which, from their peculiar novelty and fashion, are worthy of notice. The most striking of these is a bandeau of silver filagree, in form of a snake, the head of which is richly embossed, and the eyes composed of rubies, brilliants, or emeralds. This elegant ornament is passed round the forehead, confining the hair, which otherwise falls in dishevelled curl. Sometimes it binds an half handkerchief on the head, and gives, thus disposed, an effect at once original and attractive. Bracelets are worn of the same material and construction--and we here take occasion to remark, that this ornament is not now confined to one design only, but frequently we see rows of pearl, bands of gold, hair, &c. ornamenting the wrist upwards, in the true Indian style. Shells imitated to nature, are scen suspended from rich gold chains, and brooches of the same ornament the bosom of dresses. Seals innumerable, and of various composition, are suspended from the watch by chains of gold filagree, &c. and are usually seen in full dress,|| on the outside of the robe. Some ladies wear the watch in sight with the morning habit; but this we consider unappropriate and inconsistent with this style of costume. The most fashionable colours for the season are, American green, morone, orange, purple, coquelicot, and light brown. LETTER ON DRESS, INTRODUCTORY AND DESCRIPTIVE, FROM ELIZA TO JULIA. I am exceedingly pleased, dear Julia, that you were so perfectly satisfied with my execution of your commissions; and that the several articles of adornment, which accompanied my last address, were so well adapted to your taste and figure. But the sentiment we feel for each other is merely Platonic, Julia; he loves me as a brother-nothing more. Indeed, what more would be heard of by my uncle and aunt→→ John is heir to a large fortune and ancient knighthood—and poor me! to what am I beira but the ancient virtues of my dear and vencrated family. I am proud of the inheritance, Julia, and will never disgrace it. Mary pretends to much astrological knowledge, and assures me, it is ordained that she is to be doubly related to me. Dear, generous girl!-But remember, Julia, not a word of this nonsense to a living soul, I beseech you; for, on my faith, John has said nothing very particular to me: and for myself-I do not even think of love, and therefore must be very far from matrimonythe latter (as I argue) requiring the indispensable accompaniment of the former. I send you by this packet a long list on the old subject of fashionable intelligence; and shall conclude this epistle with a few more choice delineations, selected from the grand magazine of taste. We drove yesterday to all the celebrated haunts of fashionable display, and were dazzled with the brilliant exhibitions of female decoration which were offered to our view. Amidst the diversity, we were much attracted by the novelty, elegance, and convenience, of a mantle, and pelisse, on an entirely new con Is not this, dear girl, a convincing proof how perfectly you live in my memory? since I can so well appropriate colours to your complexion, style to your countenance, and drapery to your form. But not in these external instances alone is Julia's image impressed on her friend. The sweet openness of her dispo-struction. The first of these is termed, the sition, the accomplishments of her mind, and the endowments of her heart, proved by expe Emigré mantle, or Brazilian cloak. It is formed of purple velvet embossed on a topaz |