The result of our experience has been to discontinue the daily use of quinine. It had been persevered in long after the conviction of the members had been against its prophylactic power. It is our conviction that we owe our escape from the disease far more to the good diet provided for us by her Majesty's Government, than to the use of quinine. We have been as fully exposed to the malarious influence as any party is likely to he. The vessel in which we have had to navigate, is one which takes in so much water that our beds are constantly damp, and often rotten beneath, with a quantity of water in the bilge of the ship. Yet we have found the fever quite amenable to treatment when taken early, and attention paid to any local congestions which may manifest themselves. Let it not be thought that we undervalue quinine: To it we trust for the removal of the disease when given after purgatives; in all forms of the fever we have found it of the greatest value, and three doses have always proved sufficient to induce the constitutional action even in those who have not been taking it previously.

We have found the fever assuming a formidable type only when permitted to go on unchecked for some time in those exposed to great fatigue, damp, and poor diet; or when the irritable state of the stomach prevented the administration of quinine.

In regard to the complications most frequently seen, among ourselves vomiting has been the most troublesome, and blistering over the stomach has seemed the best means of stopping it. We have fortunately escaped without more serious inflammatory lesions of the internal organs; but among the Portuguese two cases have been observed with pneumonia— both proved fatal; the tartrate of antimony seemed to have no effect, while stimulants were equally powerless when once sinking had commenced. Enlargements of the spleen, when of recent date, have yielded quickly to the use of the sulphate of iron and quinine.

The ship's company, consisting of Kroomen, have shewed no greater immunity than the Europeans. The experiment of quinine was made with them, but its prophylactic action proved equally feeble as in our own

case.

In future expeditions of a similar nature, we beg to suggest that the work of the contracting ship-builders be more scrupulously tested than it had been in our case, when the defects once observed completely baffled all attempts at remedy.

No. 18.

Addressed to

River Shire, October 10th, 1859.

WE met a large east coast slaving party here coming from Cazembe's country, with an immense number of slaves and elephants' tusks. We bought some fine specimens of malachite from them. A more blackguard looking set I never saw: they appear to be the people of the Angotia (?) river, but were not Arabs, though somewhat like them. When they knew we were English they slipped off by night, with probably the same opinion as we had of them. The English name is well known far into the country. English establishments in this quarter would be of great benefit, for the native traders would rather part with their ivory here, than carry it a month further to the coast for the same prices. It would soon develope the cotton trade, for the people around are great agriculturists, and have no cattle, like the Kafirs. They are quick of apprehension, and we found that suspicions of our turning out to be a marauding party were quickly allayed by frankly stating that we came to find out and mark paths for our traders to come along and buy cotton. Some of the natives ran off at once to find the cotton for sale. But time would be required to get a firm footing in the country. At present not more than one-fifth of the soil capable of cultivation has been under the hoe. A colony of our own honest poor would be a great advantage to both England and Africa; and were our religious as well as mercantile establishments planned simultaneously, I have no fear as to the result. I have submitted a plan to government by which I think this new field may be occupied advantageously, and a command of a large portion of the east coast slave market obtained. This is the work which I proposed to myself when the expedition was planned.

No. 19.

Addressed to the MASTER OF TRINITY COLLEGE, Cambridge.

(This letter has not been before printed.)

MY DEAR SIR,

River Shire, 20th Oct. 1859.

WE have just traced this river up to the point of its departure from Lake Nyinyesi or Nyassa, and we found that there are only thirtythree miles of cataract to be passed above Murchison's Cascade in 15° 55' south latitude, when the Shire becomes placid again and continues so right into the lake in latitude 14o 25' south. This bit of news is of more importance than at first sight may appear. We have entered into a cotton

producing country of unknown extent, and where there are no frosts to endanger or cut off the crops as in America.

The Lakes Shirwa or Tamandua and Nyinyesi or Nyassa lie parallel with the east coast, the former is 90 miles long, and the latter extends so far that none of the natives could tell us " where its head lay." All the trade from the interior to the coast must cross at certain fords, and the chief of these is the point of departure of the Shire from Nyassa, for then they can pass along the partition between the two lakes without crossing either, then diverge to Mosambique, Angola (?) and other parts. We met a large slaving party here, coming from Cazembe's country with an immense number of slaves and elephants' tusks. A more blackguard looking crew I never saw. When they knew that we were English they slipped off by night. The influence which an English settlement would have here cannot well be overestimated, with lawful commerce and that Gospel which is the great cure for human woe, The slave-trade would soon be eaten out of a large region.

If I am not over sanguine, I see here a solution of that great problem: supply of the raw material of our manufacturers, without dependence on slave-labour. And perhaps in judging of my hopes, it may be well to bear in mind that I never encouraged any of the speculators and company farmers who beset me at home, on the ground that the way was not then open. When we pass the cataracts the land is arranged in three terraces East of the Shire. The lowest of these, the Shire Valley itself, is exactly like the valley of the Nile at Cairo, and about 1,500 feet above the level of the sea. The second terrace is over 2,000 feet, and some three miles broad. The third is more than 3,000 feet in altitude, and on it rises the lofty mountain Zomba, with a base of about twenty miles. We ascended Zomba and found it in round numbers to be between 7,000 and 8,000 feet high. In the Shire Valley it was hot and sultry, as we were travelling at the hotest period of the year. That which in West Africa is called "The Smokes," when from the burning of tens of thousands of acres of tall grass, the atmosphere puts on somewhat the appearance of a London fog. When we entered the first terrace the air was refreshing, and on the second it felt delightful to us: but to our native companions cold. On Zomba it was cold to us all. Here, however, there was a large valley with a fine stream and much cultivation. All the terraces are supplied with running rills of deliciously cool water.

My companions Dr Kirk, Mr C. Livingstone and Mr Rae, had never seen such a well watered land anywhere. I mention these peculiarities that you may see we have changes of climate within a few miles of each

other and cotton and sugar grow on all the terraces. :

When burned

down it sprouts up as fresh and strong as ever, and that is often the only labour required to secure a fresh crop. We saw indigo seven feet high on the shore of Nyassa. We must have colonization by our own honest poor. We can cure fever without loss of strength to the patient, even when in the lowlands. The great Father of all has made room enough and to spare for all, in his broad beautiful world. Not one-fifth of the land capable of cultivation has ever been under the hoe.

Your religious establishments are wanted simultaneously with the commercial. I have no fear of the result. If we have Christian poor they will shine as lights in the darkness, and hold up the teacher's hands, when the heathen are against him. Hitherto we have sent our paupers,

our ragamuffin poor to colonize, instead of those who would aid their pastors in the great work of elevating the degraded portions of humanity. I hope and pray that this opening may be taken advantage of and a mission of peace and good-will be established.

I retain a very pleasing and grateful recollection of your kindness at Trinity; it was quite an event in my life. Please remember me to my friend Professor Sedgwick.

No. 20.

Addressed to Sir R. I. MURCHISON.

66

In a similar letter addressed to Sir Roderick I. Murchison, dated November the 6th, 1859, Dr Livingstone describes another mountainous and healthful region parallel to the Shire, lying to the east of the Shirwa and Tamandua and Nyassa, and which, like mount Zomba, rises to 7,000 or 8,000 feet in height. In concluding this letter he says, Develope lawful trades, including the cotton trade, in this hilly and healthy country, and slavery is doomed over a very large district." In another letter to the same friend, dated at Kongone, the port at one of the mouths of the Zambesi which the British expedition discovered, Dr Livingstone writes, on the 10th of December, 1859, in good spirits, his vessel having been rendered water-tight through the assistance afforded him by Captain Berkeley, of her Majesty's ship Lynx. After expressing his great obligation to Admiral Sir F. Grey and the naval officers for their friendly aid, he adds, “We are in a spot where the sea breeze plays continually upon us, and we enjoy good health. I go up to the Makololo country from this."

No. 21.

Addressed by MR CHARLES LIVINGSTONE to a Friend.

Kongone, Mouth of Zambesi, 1st December, 1859.

MY DEAR FRIEND,

WE have explored the river Shire to its source in the great lake Nyassa. This river is about 200 miles long, and has a deep channel at 112 miles from its mouth. A series of rapids then commence, extending about 30 miles, after which there is no impediment to navigation to Lake Nyassa; and how far that extends to the north we are unable to say; natives informed us that it took three months to reach the head of the lake.

The Shire flows through an exceedingly fertile valley, which is bounded by two ranges of lofty hills, and is from 10 to 12 miles wide at the lake, and from twenty to thirty below the cataracts. East of the cataracts are the highlands-a magnificent country, well watered and wooded, with a rich soil, and pretty numerous population. From the large number of old grey-headed people we met, it would appear to be a fine healthy country, well adapted for European constitutions. The men are well armed with bows and arrows, or spears, yet they do not seem to be blood-thirsty. As a general thing they treated us with civility. As was natural, they were at first somewhat suspicious, but as soon as we told them what our object was, their suspicions vanished. One chief, however, said that parties had come to them before with as fine a story as we had, and after a few days jumped up, seized a number of his people, and carried them off as slaves. We suspected that he himself had been engaged in this business. The country is well adapted for cattle and sheep, yet the inhabitants possess only a few goats, and still fewer sheep. Besides various kinds of provisions, &c., they grow cotton largely. In the highlands and lowlands, through 24 degrees of latitude, we met with cotton everywhere, and it may be as fine a cotton country for several degrees [further] to the north than we were. We went no farther than the foot of Lake Nyassa. Some cotton patches covered three acres, though for the most part they did not exceed half an acre. Each family seems to have its own cotton plantation, which is carefully cultivated. They could raise almost any amount if they had a market for it. The cotton is of two kinds-the foreign and the native. The former is of staple and quality; the latter is short in the staple, and feels more like wool than cotton. The foreign is perennial, and requires planting only once in three years. It is burned down before the rains, and soon springs up of its own accord. The native has to be planted every year in the highlands. The people prefer it, because they say it makes the stronger