nations were consequently dependent on that people for their participation in a very lucrative article of trade, and were frequently deprived of their fair profits by exorbitant prices charged for the original material. This state of things continued till the commencement of the last century, when a person named Crotchet erected a small mill near the present works, with an intention of introducing the silk manufacture into England; but his machinery being inadequate to the purpose, he quickly became insolvent, and the design was for some time abandoned. In the year 1715, a similar idea began to expand in the mind of an excellent mechanic and draughtsman, John Lombe, who though young, resolved on the perilous task of traveling into Italy, to procure drawings or models of the machines necessary for the undertaking. In Italy he remained some time, but as admission to the silk-works was prohibited, he could only obtain access by corrupting two of the workmen, through whose assistance he inspected the machinery in private; and whatever parts he obtained a knowledge of during these visits, he recorded on paper before he slept. By perseverance in this mode of conduct, he made himself acquainted with the whole; and had just completed his plan, when his intention was discovered, and his life being in extreme hazard, he flew with precipitation, and took refuge on ship-board. The two Italians who had favoured his scheme, and whose lives were in equal danger with his own, accompanied him, and they all soon landed in safety in England: this happened in 1717. Fixing on Derby as a proper place for his purpose, he agreed with the corporation for an island, or swamp, in the river, 500 feet long, and 52 wide, at a rent somewhat below £8 yearly. Here he established his silk-mill; but during the time employed in its construction, he erected temporary machines in the town-hall, and various other places; by which means he not only reduced the prices of silk far below the Italians, but was likewise enabled to proceed with his great undertaking, though the charges amounted to nearly £30,000. In the year 1718 he procured a patent to enable him to secure the profits thus arising from his address and ingenuity, for the term of fourteen years; but his days verged to a close, and before half this period had elapsed, treachery and poison had brought him to the grave. The Italians, whose trade rapidly decreased from the success of the new establishment, were exasperated to vengeance, and vowed the destruction of the man whose ingenuity had thus turned the current of their business into another channel.

It is in the production of the patterns of silk goods, that the French have a decided advantage over the British; they probably

have little or none after the design is put into the loom. The modes in which taste is cultivated at Lyons deserve particular study and imitation in this country. Among the weavers of the place, the children and every body connected with devising patterns, much attention is devoted to every thing any way connected with the beautiful either in figure or colour. Weavers may be seen in their holiday leisure gathering flowers, and grouping them in the most engaging combinations. They are continually suggesting new designs to their employers, and are thus the fruitful source of elegant patterns. There is hardly any considerable house in Lyons, in which there is not a partner who owes his place in it to his success as an artist. The town of Lyons is so conscious of the value of such studies, that it contributes 20,000 francs per annum to the government establishment of the school of arts, which takes charge of every youth who shows an aptitude for drawing, or imitative design of any kind, applicable to manufactures. Hence all the eminent painters, sculptors, even botanists and florists of Lyons, become eventually associated with the staple trade, and devote to it their happiest conceptions. The French manufacturer justly considers that his pattern is the principal element of his success in trade; for the mere handiwork of weaving is a simple affair, with the improved Jacquard loom. He therefore visits the school, and picks out the boy who promises, by taste and invention, to suit his purpose the best. The French weaver prides himself upon his knowledge of design; he will turn over several hundred patterns in his possession, and descant on their relative merits, seldom erring far in predicting the success of any new style. By this disposition the minds of the silkweavers in France become elevated and refined. In flower patterns, their designs are remarkably free from incongruities, being copied from nature with scientific precision. They supply taste to the whole world in proportion to the extent of their exportations. There are also weaving schools; in these, a pattern being exhibited, they are required to exercise their invention as to the best means of producing the design on a piece of silk goods. Their superiority in art is turned to good account in many other manufactures.

England beheld, with no small degree of jealousy, the prodigious plantations of mulberry trees in France, the increasing production of silk, and the consequent multiplication of silk manufactures. James I. accordingly endeavoured to introduce this industry into his own kingdom; and, in 1608, a most earnest appeal was made to the British public, in regard to the advantages that might be

derived from the plantation of mulberry trees; but nothing was done and only as late as 1820, was this subject seriously taken up; some inconsiderable experiments having sufficiently established the fact, that these trees, and the precious insects which feed upon them, thrive as well in England as in France. But long before that epoch, silk manufactures had flourished, to a considerable extent, in England; the raw silk being imported from Italy. There existed already, in 1629, so many of these establishments in London, that the weavers of the city and of the environs were divided into corporations; and, in 1661, the individuals which composed them were more than 40,000 in number.

The revocation of the edict of Nantes, in 1685, contributed greatly to the future progress of this industry; the most skilful French weavers having taken refuge in England. Next to this cause of the rapid progress of this manufacture, must be mentioned the silk machine erected at Derby, in 1719. The reputation of the English fabrics increased at length to such a degree, that even in Italy English silk commanded a higher price than the Italian.

Silk has long been a profitable production of Georgia, and other parts of the United States ;* and may be increased, it is presumed, as fast as the demand will rise. This is the strongest of all raw materials, and the great empire of China, though abounding with cottton, finds it the cheapest clothing for her people.

Tench Coxe says, (1789):—" We have a large nursery of the white Italian mulberry established here this summer. Within ourselves, little can be expected; but the idea of the nursery has been encouraged upon this principle, that it prepares things for an emigration from a silk country. This, perhaps, is refining, but the expense is small; the trees are wanted to replace those destroyed by the British army; and the measure falls in with our plan, to foster and encourage, but not to force, manufactures."

* Extract from a description of Carolina, 1727. By Daniel Coxe, Esq. "The father of Daniel Coxe was the first proprietor of the English province of Carolina. The vast trouble and expense of Governor Coxe, will scarcely be credited; for he not only, at his sole charge, for several years, established and kept up a correspondence with the governors, and chief Indian traders in all the English colonies, on the continent of America, employed many people on discoveries, by land, to the west, north and south of this vast extent of ground, but likewise, in the year 1698, he equipped and fitted out two ships, provided with above thirty great guns, sixteen patereroes, abundance of small arms, amunition, stores and provisions of all sorts, not only for the use of those on board, and for discovery by sea, but also for building a fortification, and settling a colony by land; there being, in both vessels, besides sailors and common men, above thirty English and French

HISTORICAL SUMMARY OF THE ART OF DYEING.

The desire of attracting public admiration may be observed even in the least civilised state of society. Among the means of distinction which are eagerly laid hold of, the glare of colours is one of the most obvious. The art of dyeing, therefore, has unquestionably a very ancient origin; for when nature afforded colouring substances of easy application, there might arise, among people but slightly civilised, methods of dyeing which have been sought after by polished nations. Thus the Gauls prepared some dyes which were not disdained by the Romans. But for its enlargement and perfection, the art required to follow the progress of manufactures and luxury. The Egyptians had discovered a mode of dyeing analogous to that of our printed calicoes. Cloths, impregnated probably with different mordants, were plunged in a bath in which they assumed different colours.

It is to Greece that our attention turns when we wish to ascertain the progress which the human mind has made in antiquity.

volunteers, some noblemen, and all gentlemen. One of these vessels discovered the mouth of the great and famous river, Mississippi, entered and ascended it above one hundred miles, and would have had perfected a settlement therein, if the captain of the other ship had done his duty and not deserted them. They however took possession of this country in the king's name, and left, in several places, the arms of Great Britain affixed on boards and trees for a memorial thereof. This was the first ship that ever entered that river from the sea, or that perfectly discovered or described its several mouths, in opposition to the boasts and falsities of the French, who assume to themselves the honour of both; Providence seeming to reserve the glory, of succeeding in so noble an enterprise, to the zeal and industry of a private subject of England, which was twice, in vain, attempted by Louis XIV. of France, the most ambitious and powerful monarch of Europe. King William promised Governor Coxe to assist him in settling the province, but died before the accomplishment of his design.

"To the king's most excellent majesty,-'In obedience to your majesty's commands, signified to us by the right honourable Secretary Vernon, upon the petition of Dr. Coxe, in relation to the province of Carolina: We have considered his petition, and humbly crave leave to represent unto your Majesty, that your Majesty's Attorney General, upon the perusal of letters patent, and conveyances produced to him by Dr. Coxe, has reported to us his opinion, that Dr. Coxe has a good title, in law, to the said province of Carolina, extending from 31 to 36 degrees of north latitude, inclusive, on the continent of America, and to several adjacent islands.'

"Signed, STAMFORD, LEXINGTON, P. MEADOWS, WM. BLATHWAIT, JOHN POLLEXTREN, ABRAHAM HILL, GEORGE STEPNEY.

"Whitehall, December 21, 1699."

The petition was signed, D. COXE.

Ever since philosophy has taken observation for a guide, and, abandoning the illusions of systems, has adhered to the study of the phenomena of nature, and of the real properties to which they owe their origin, it has followed the chain of the numerous wonders which it has analysed, in subserviency to the welfare of society. It has recognised in manufacturing industry, as well as in commerce, the source of the prosperity of the nation, the germ of a great population, the principal support of agriculture. National industry is augmented and enlightened by a free communication of the processes it employs. India is the nursery of that knowledge and those arts which were subsequently diffused and improved among other nations.*

ON DYEING COTTON AND SILK.

To dye skein cotton yellow.-The same operations as those in the first common red dye are to be used here; to one pound of cotton four ounces of roche alum, and from one to four pounds of weld.

When dyed the cotton is to be worked in hot, but not boiling, liquor, consisting of four ounces of sulphate of copper to every pound of cotton; it is then to be boiled for three hours in a solution containing four ounces of soap to every pound of cotton.

When a dark or jonquil colour is wanted, no alum is used; of weld take two pounds and a half, very little verdegris, or a little alum in its stead, but nothing else. For brightening, however, boiling in a solution of soap is in all cases necessary.

On dyeing and re-dyeing cotton furniture yellow.-If the furniture, such as rough or finished cotton or cambric, intended for yellow linings for bed or window curtains, be in a perfect bleached state, which is now generally the case, according to the number of the pieces so must the size of the copper be to boil the weld in for the yellow dye. A small copper holding four or five pails would do for three pieces of twenty-eight yards each. The weld may be purchased by the half bundle, the bundle, or the load. Half a bundle would be enough for the above quantity of cotton, if a moderate yellow is wanted. The weld must be increased or decreased according as the pattern approaches a straw, a canary, a lemon, or towards a gold colour

or orange.

The weld must be boiled about twenty minutes, the liquor then strained off

* Mr. John Wilson, of Ainsworth, near Manchester, an extremely ingenious dyer and manufacturer, who more than sixty years since gained both celebrity and wealth by the great improvements he introduced into the art of dyeing, had obtained from the Greeks of Smyrna the secret of dyeing Turkey red, which he described in two essays; but it is stated that he found this too tedious and expensive a process, less suited to manufactured goods than to cotton in the skein, nor even suited to that spun upon the single spindles then in use, though it might be applicable to that spun on machines.