and picturesque. We passed through deep and narrow glens surrounded by 'high mountains, the sides of which are covered with wood. At the bottom, ' over a rocky bed flows a river, beneath the shade of wide-spreading planetrees. We ascended and descended steep paths, rugged and dangerous. 'The glen afterwards expanded, and we had extensive views of mountains ' receding behind mountains to a great distance. The situation of Andruz" zena, which stretches up the side of a hill adorned with trees and vineyards, 'is striking. On our arrival we procured a guide to conduct us to the 'ruins called the Erna, or columns, supposed to be the temple of Apollo Epi'cureus at Phygalea. Our path passed along glens filled with luxuriant oaks, ' and the hills, which rose round us on every side, were richly ornamented 'with wood: magnificent mountains appeared in the distance, and the scenes during the whole ride presented an uncommon profusion of the grand and 'beautiful. As we approached the temple we rode up a very narrow craggy 'path embrowned by trees, apparently the course of a winter torrent. The ⚫ temple is most romantically situated on the brow of a steep hill, which de'scends abruptly into a woody valley. Beyond the valley rises a bold chain ' of mountains, their summits are bare, and the sides partially clothed with 'wood. Beyond these another range of high mountains appears in the dis'tance heaped together in the wildest confusion. The temple itself seated on 'the brow of the hill, is a most picturesque object. Thirty-four columns remain standing. They are of the Doric order, and fluted; of a dark-grey . stone, which is much worn and stained by the effects of the weather. The ' whole area of the temple and the parts adjacent are covered with loose 'broken stones and pillars. A more retired spot, and one more fitted for the purposes of devotion and meditation cannot be imagined. No sign of a human habitation or of human labour appears to break the solitude which reigns ' around. We viewed this delightful scene under very favourable circum 5 But I think that the place where these columns stand cannot be satisfactorily proved to be Phygalea. Phygalea was situated at the very southern extremity of Arcadia on the confines of Messenia, (Polyb. 1. iv. c. 3.) and according to D'Anville's map must have been at least twenty-seven miles from Andruzzena, (the ancient Heræa,) on the Alpheus. (See Polyb. iv. c. 78.) But the columns are only eight or nine miles, at farthest, from Andruzzena. M. Fauvel, in his letter to the National Institute, places, I think, Phygalea at Caritena. The country in which the columns stand was peculiarly consecrated to Diana; and the temple may probably have been dedicated to her. 'stances. The sun was nearly setting in a clear and transparent sky, and darted his level streams of light upon the tops of the trees and against the 'shafts of the columns. 'The tract of country through which we passed from Andruzzena to the 'columns is part of the district of ancient Parrhasia, the fabled birth-place of Jupiter.' It was the scene also of Diana's hunting; there was the river 'Celadon, and the hill Ceryneus. 6 'Oct. 19. We left Andruzzena. The first part of the road presented no❝thing remarkable, winding among mountains of moderate height. In about 'three hours descending the side of a woody hill we had a very beautiful view ‹ of a fine valley, completely filled with shrubs of arbutus and myrtle, and ‹ with fir, Spanish-chesnut, and plane-trees. The woods in many places ex' tended up the sides of the mountains nearly to the summit. The end of the valley was closed up with great majesty by a single mountain, whose sides, bare, rugged, and precipitous, formed a fine contrast to the richness and luxuriance of the vale below. In about five hours and a half we ascended a very steep road up the side of a hill, and from the summit had a magnificent prospect, reaching over the country of ancient Elis. It was a view of which it is difficult to give any conception, except by a drawing. It was very ex'tensive, consisting of large vallies, well-wooded lines of hills traversing a 'vast tract of country in different directions, and beyond these a long range of lofty mountains terminating in numberless peaks. Our road led us through 'close copses of myrtle and arbutus, interspersed with fir and plane-trees. 'The arbutus presented a most beautiful appearance, with its leaves of vivid 6 green, and its branches laden with the fruit now ripe, and of a deep red colour. 'This kind of scenery continued for two hours, when we stopped at the small 'Turkish village of Mandrusa for the night.' Journal. Pindar characterises Arcadia by its hills, and many-winding vallies: Αρκαδίας απο δει ραν, και πολυδναμπίων μυχων. He also alludes to its being a pastoral country, abounding in flocks: 1. 236. The shepherd boy.] The dress of the Arcadian peasants is very picturesque, partaking a great deal of the antique character, and according admirably well with the scenery of the country. Their jacket, the petticoat, and stockings are of white linen. The petticoat, which is ornamented generally with a deep border of brown, descends to the knee, which is bound round with a black garter; the jacket does not reach lower than the waist. The only colours used in their dress are in the turban and zone. Their sandals are generally of the raw hide of the goat, like those of old Eumæus in the Odyssey,' bound across the instep with leathern thongs, as anciently: They sometimes throw over their shoulder a loose rough coat, and carry a wooden crook, and thus accoutred remind one of Theocritus's description of the shepherds of his day: 1. 251. Εκ μεν γαρ λασιοιο δασυτριχος είχε τραίοιο Upon his shoulder hung a shaggy skin Stripp'd from the thick-hair'd goat, still redolent Of new-made cheese; around his breast he bound An ample zone, and carried in his hand A crooked staff of the wild olive. past'ral reed Of shepherd.] The pipe used by the present race of Arcadian shepherds is made of one reed, μovoxaλapos, the invention of which is attributed to Mercury. The reed-pipe was called Tilgos by the Doric colonists of Italy. 2 Odyss. 1. Theoc. Eid. vii. 1. 15. 'Menander, p. 40. 5 Athen. iv. c. 80. Theocritus mentions four kinds of pastoral pipes, the cup, the auλos, the Sova, and the hayaλos. Pan sometimes played on the single-reed pipe,' (the Movavλos). The other pipe which he occasionally used was composed of nine reeds, and thence called EVVEαpwvos. It seems to have been so constructed as to bend round the lip.' 8 1. 289. A ruin'd temple.] See note on line 204, p. 256, and the engraving, p. 96. 1. 231. Th' untimely fate of an Arcadian pair.] The story of Alexi and Teresa, though for the most part fictitious, is founded on a fact which took place whilst I was in Greece. A short time before I arrived at Ioannina, Ali Pasha took away by force a very beautiful Greek from her lover a few days before their intended marriage, and consigned her to the walls of his Harem. Simonetto, our interpreter, though only a poor barber of Prevesa, described her to me "as lovely as lovely as Helen.' I have introduced the tale chiefly for the purpose of illustrating the state of society, and shewing the degraded situation of the Greeks, who submit without even a shew of resistance to acts of outrage as flagrant as that which I have narrated. Turkish despotism has in this respect become more oppressive since the time when the Baron de Tott wrote: Le despotisme du Sultan (he says) ne pourroit s'emparer d'une fille, quelque passion qu'elle inspirât à son souverain; et quoique le sang Grec présente encore les mêmes formes qui ont servi des modèles aux Praxitèles, les annales Turques n'ont encore fourni aucun exemple de cette atrocité.' 1. 341. Fairer than Syrinx.] See the tale of Pan and Syrinx in Ovid2 and in Longus.3 1. 347. He hung fresh flow'ry garlands.] It is the custom of the Greeks to hang flowers on their doors at the beginning of May, a practice derived from their ancestors. There are some pretty verses by Asclepiades' supposed 6 Theoc. Eid. xx. 1. 28. Theoc. i. 1. 129. 2 Ov. Met. i. 1. 689. 4 See Anthol. Brunck. T. i. p. 211. to be spoken by a lover, whilst he suspends a garland on the door of his mistress. 1. 362. Bridal vest.] One of the chief occupations of the young Greek female before her marriage, is to work her wedding garments. See note on 1. 234. Part II. 1.387. Link'd hand in hand.] I have mentioned above, in the note on 1. 234 of Part II. the custom of the nuptial dance, and the ceremony of crowning the married pair with garlands. M. Guys says, that the marriage torch is still carried as anciently before the bride and bridegroom. 6 On an exquisitely beautiful cameo in the collection of the Duke of Marlborough, where the marriage of Cupid and Psyche is represented, we see both the nuptial veil and hymeneal torch. 1. 422. The vintage.] When the vines are cut down the grapes are gathered in large baskets, and carried to the wine-press, which is generally erected in a corner of the vineyard. The walls of the wine-press are about two feet high, plaistered in the inside, without either roof or covering. The floor is covered with stone, and slopes gradually. On this floor the grapes are piled up in one corner; a man treads upon them with his bare feet, and the juice thus expressed runs off through a hole into a sort of well on the outside of the building. It is then put into bags of leather (sheep or goat skins) and conveyed away on the backs of mules and asses. Longus' has left us a lively picture of the vintage: "When autumn was far advanced, and the time of the vintage at hand, every one was at work in the fields; one prepared the winepress, another cleared out the casks, a third wove the wicker-baskets. Every where were seen peasants sharpening their sickles for cutting the vines, or laying the stones ready for pressing the grapes, or bringing dry withy casks for holding the must." From Hesiod's description of the vintage we learn that the process of gathering the grapes and making the wine is the same now as it was in his time: Οἱ δ' εβρυτων οινας, δρεπανας εν χερσιν εχονίες |