ADVANTAGES OF ATTEMPTING THE NORTH-EAST PASSAGE ROUND THE AMERICAN CONTINENT, &c.

[We have been favoured by Captain John Dundas Cochrane, R. N. (who is recently returned to England from a pedestrian journey into the remotest parts of Asia) with the following observations on "The Practicability of a N. W. passage round the Continent of America, and the probable advantages of attempting a passage from the N. E.; also, with Ideas suggested by the present ineffectual Mode about to be adopted by the Land Expeditions, for tracing the American Polar Coast; with a Plan for the more successfully ascertaining the Northern Boundaries of America."]

THREE Voyages have been made to attempt a N. W. passage into the Polar Sea, but not one has been made from the N. E. That the latter is less difficult to accomplish than the former, is the opinion of many, if not of most maritime persons, who are, of all classes, the best qualified to give a correct judgment on the question.

One of the reasons, indeed the only one assigned, for persevering in the N. W. passage is, that the vicissitude of climate to be passed through before Behring's Straits can be reached and the voyage commence, would endanger the health, if not disqualify the crews from accomplishing their object. For my part I would rather undertake the command of an expedition round Cape Horn to Behring's Straits, than one via Lancaster Sound, or by any inlet from this side of America. The lives and healths of the crews are, doubtless, of paramount consideration; for, if they are cut short, there can be no successful result expected from any expedition. So far, however, from the crews suffering in health, I maintain they would benefit from the long voyage; receiving, as they might, fresh meat, vegetables, and every assistance necessary, as frequently as they offer, both in the Atlantic and Pacific, from Europe to Cape Horn, and from Cape Horn to Kamtschatka. It is a spirit of impatience, then, which confines the discovery to only one maritime expedition: a spirit which, in most cases, would be laudable, having for its object the arrival at the scene of action by the shortest route, and in the least time; but in this case, losing sight of dangers and difficulties, and the improbabilities of ultimate success from unreckoned obstacles. If the lives of the people are a paramount consideration from this cause, there is no less chance of their health being affected upon a return from Behring's Straits round Cape Horn to Europe, than vice versa: because, after having been wintering for two or three years in the Frozen Sea, they will feel more difficulty in withstanding those tropical heats which must attend them the whole of the return voyage. During summer they must quit Behring's Straits, in summer they must double Cape Horn, and in summer they must arrive in Europe. There is a great difference between a warm-blooded man encountering a cold climate, and a person of chilled blood encountering a tropical climate: the former can always keep himself warm by exercise; the latter cannot keep himself cool in any manner. I speak from experience.

Having stated the only weighty argument for a N. W. passage, or, more properly speaking, against a N. E. passage-for the results of the three expeditions afford no ground of reasonable hope that any maritime expedition will ever succeed from the Eastward-I will advert to those which seem to point out a N. E. passage as the more likely to produce the solution of the problem of whether the continent of

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America can be circumnavigated or not. The first argument which I will adduce in its behalf is, that we are certain that Cape Prince of Wales in Behring's Straits is a part of the continent of America, as are also Cape Lisburne and Icy Cape, in spite of Kotzebue's Sound, (of which Captain Kotzebue has given less information than Russian maps of nearly a hundred years old.) It is the knowledge of this important fact which makes the prosecution of a voyage along the coast of America from the Westward likely to be successful. It must be a consolation to those engaged in an enterprise of this kind, to know that they are coasting or sailing along Continental land, where relief in most cases would be at hand; whereas from the Eastward we do not know where to prick for a passage.

The prosecution of a voyage by Behring's Straits is still more entitled to a favourable attention, when it is considered that we know of a half-way house, as Melville Island may be called, and an outlet from the Polar Sea into Baffin's Bay. Why not let a ship push for Melville Island from Behring's Straits? If she succeeded, the task would be accomplished, although such ship should be obliged to return the way she came. A ship might also get so near to the Island as to send a pedestrian expedition to it during the winter. There may be field ice, nay, perpetual ice, West of Melville Island; but it by no means follows that such ice is so unlimited in extent as to preclude the possibility of approaching within a moderate distance of that Island; and even if it did, the same impossibility of penetrating it would subsist from East as well as from West.

If it be determined to follow the coast of the continent of America, according to the plan of the last voyage, and never to depart from it but in case of necessity, then, certainly, Behring's Straits is the point to commence and not finish at. Whether Greenland, the land South of Lancaster Sound, the land about Repulse Bay, or any other lands in that part of the world, are joined, or independent of America, we know not for actual certainty; but, as Captain Burney has truly said, twenty expeditions failing on this side of America will be insufficient to ascertain that there is no passage. It is only by actually accomplishing the passage that the question can be set at rest.—Whereas if a vessel can reach Melville Island, or near it from Behring's Straits, there will be no more to do, in the maritime view of the case. This side of America, from what has been discovered, presents a series of straits, gulfs, inlets, channels, and sounds, which ever perplex a naval expedition. These, too, are the causes of tides and currents, which tend yet more to bewilder it. A current, a tide, or an eddy, may set up and down a channel, or inlet, and be the means of inducing an expedition to change its course for the worse.

Another, I believe, most unanswerable argument for a N. E. expedition of discovery arises from a due consideration of the known course of the currents. Every expedition which has been sent from this country up Baffin's Bay, Davis's Straits, Hudson's Bay, as also that under Captain Franklin, has noticed the perpetual currents setting from the Polar Basin into Baffin's Bay; Captains Ross and Parry found them upon the first, as did the latter on his two last voyages, at the rate of three and four miles per hour. If this be the case, why oppose the stream? It must certainly more endanger the ships and crews, besides prolonging the voyage. I believe there can be but little doubt that from Hudson's Bay to Lancaster Sound there is an endless variety of channels and

straits, which must form currents; and the more numerous and contracted those channels are, the greater the difficulty to stem them. It is, indeed, miraculous how the ships have been so often saved from being dashed to pieces, crushed to atoms, or run down by icebergs, from thus unnecessarily sailing in opposition to the stream.

Upon the other side of America we have the voyages of Cook, (or more properly of Clerke,) of Kotzebue, and, lastly, of the Russian expedition under Captain Vasillieff. Currents were found by these three navigators setting to the North, N. E. and E. N. E. The voyage of the latter is, however, more in point: the commander of that expedition told me at Kamtschatka, that so strong was the E. N. E. current, after his fast-sailing sloop had got round Icy Cape thirty miles, that he was afraid to continue, lest he should not be able to get back, considering, as Captain Vasillieff did, that it would be imprudent, if not dangerous, to winter upon the North coast of America, separated from his consort; the latter being employed in surveying the N. E. coast of Asia. There was a clear open navigable sea round Icy Cape, and nothing seems to have prevented a continuation of the voyage but the unfit state of the ship, the absence of the consort, and a want of provisions. The ships, too, had been already absent two years and a half. All authors, all judges, all persons who have made enquiries upon the subject, admit of a current setting from the Pacific into the Polar Sea, by way of Behring's Straits, as well as a current from the Polar Sea to the Atlantic Ocean by way of Baffin's Bay. Is it not, then, more reasonable that a ship may do that with a favourable current which she cannot do in an opposing one? Wherever there is a current, there can a ship go: nay, I would recommend poor Shalauroff's mode of getting along,let the ship be made fast to an island of ice, and as long as a current continues she will go safely; for an island of ice will surely take the ground before a ship. The first expedition sailed under Captain Ross, and is supposed to have failed from not going up Lancaster Sound. The second failed from having entered Lancaster Sound, and, therefore, the plan was changed; the third failed from the same error as the first; and the fourth may fail from the same error as the second. Seasons vary and change so much in so high a latitude, that it is impossible to calculate on success with any chance of certainty. Who would ever think of beating a ship from Port Royal, Jamaica, to the Island of Antigua, in the line of middle latitude between those islands, against a perpetual trade wind and westerly current?

To sum up with respect to maritime expeditions, there are two ways to make the attempt in one season: either to push direct for Melville Island, or round Icy Cape: the difference of the courses will not vary four points. Should either of these fail the first season, we shall have the satisfaction of knowing that the ships are safe: they may winter in Kotzebue's Sound, or even round Icy Cape, and the commander may dispatch a letter to the Tchuktchi, who would forward it to the Kolyma. The expedition might also during the winter be employed to great advantage, either in surveying Kotzebue's Sound, round Icy Cape, or even some of the interior part of America. The currents observed by Capt. Franklin, and strengthened by the drift wood being always to the Westward of the head lands, prove beyond a doubt that no Western current ever takes place. The clear open sea observed by Capts. Franklin and

Vasillieff in nearly the same latitude, is also a strong testimony for the passage by Behring's Straits being the more preferable. I will therefore close here what relates to the circumnavigation of America, and begin with those which may be more properly termed the circumtrudging of America.

The expeditions preparing for Captains Franklin and Lyon will, no doubt, be provided with every thing that is necessary, not omitting baidares, dogs, nartes, provisions, guides, attendants, doctors, medicines, tents, instruments for scientific observations, besides those more immediately necessary for making the common observations of knowing where they are. All this may appear very well upon paper, but I very much doubt whether the officers composing such expeditions are or will be better off by being too much hampered and loaded. The greater the quantity of things sent with a land expedition, the greater the sacrifice of them. The more numerous also the party composing it, the more likely is it to fail; while the perishing of a part must dispirit the remainder. Too much science seems to be aimed at : let the rough pioneer be sent in the first instance, he will smooth and render more easy and agreeable the task of the scientific gentleman. Let those only undertake an exploring expedition who can resist hunger, cold, and fatigue, with impunity. Let them not be, as they have been in such cases, encumbered with chronometers, sextants, telescopes, electrometers, barometers, thermometers, &c. Let them be provided with a gun, powder and shot, an extra quantity of provisions, warm clothing, tobacco, hatchets, and those things which are paramountly necessary: a good quadrant, and a better watch and compass, are alone necessary to an exploring party; afterwards, when the way is clear, let the Observatory at Greenwich be taken, if it be practicable.

There are many other arguments why a number of individuals are incompatible with the safety or success of a land expedition of discovery. The extra quantity of provisions which are necessary to support them; the limited means of the country through which they pass; the different capabilities to resist the evils attendant on exploring a barbarous and inhospitable country; the different passions by which a number of people are animated; the difference of their characters and tempers; the melancholy results of land expeditions in consequence; the want of order, discipline, and obedience, which must take place when in difficulties and dangers-all these are reasons why an expedition of such a kind should be limited to the smallest number of people possible. For example, I mean that, for Arctic America, half-a-dozen or eight people are enough for any expedition by land, or along the Frozen Sea coast. Such are my sentiments, strengthened by the knowledge that it is the custom of the Russians, who have almost always succeeded in their exploring expeditions, and who, with the exception of the Taimura Cape, have circumnavigated and circumtrudged the North and North East boundaries of Asia more than one hundred and fifty years ago. This fact I do not doubt: the concealinent of the knowledge of it from the world, to the detriment of geography, is only to be attributed to the unfortunate circumstance, that till lately such tasks were executed by persons whose qualifications extended rather to performing than describing. During my rambles in Northern Siberia, I have heard of many discoveries and expeditions, which are now only listened to as traditional reports, although I cannot doubt of their truth.

With respect to the projected expeditions of Captains Lyon and Franklin, I think the plan of the former more commendable than that of the latter. Captain Lyon may do a great deal towards tracing the continent of America from Repulse Bay to the Westward, as far as, Cape Turnagain. He will, first, I presume, find no difficulty in ascertaining, after he has gained the continent, that it is the continent: the simple circumstance of his crossing the beds of rivers will be an infallible guide, especially when they are considerable; islands in such an hemisphere, unless they are large islands, are not likely to produce rivers. Having once gained the continent, it should be his business to proceed with as much expedition as possible along the line of coast, and not waste his time in exploring inlets or outlets; let him gain the most westerly point that he can, being in a latitude with Cape Turnagain, calculating upon any extra time which his return may give him to explore rivers, &c. This expedition may enable him to reach the Copper Mine River, and thus reduce one third of the line of coast from Repulse Bay to Icy Cape.

To explore the second line of coast, that is, from the Copper Mine to Mackenzie's River, I know not whether it is the intention of Government to send any especial expedition. I have heard that in the event of Captain Lyon's succeeding in reaching the Copper Mine River he is to proceed to the Westward, and explore as much towards that of Mackenzie as he can. He has, however, quite enough to do if he can reach and return from the Copper Mine River to his ships in one

season.

It appears to me a more advisable plan that a party should proceed down Mackenzie's River, and make their way Eastward to the Copper Mine River; and any extra provisions which Captain Lyon might have. should be deposited in a safe manner at the mouth of that river, in such a direction as might be mutually agreed upon be tween. Captain Lyon and the person commanding the Centre expedition. Should it be difficult to decide upon what part of the Copper Mine River the depot should be made, let it be made at Cape Turnagain or at Cape Hearne, which bears nearly West from Repulse Bay. At the same time let Captain Lyon leave directions where to find the ships, and promise to send assistance and provisions in a certain line of direction from the ships along the coast. Thus would there be every probable chance of accomplishing a survey of two thirds of the conti nent of America: and this is the division of labour most befitting the attention of Captain Franklin. His knowledge of the Copper Mine River, and the country between its mouth and Cape Turnagain, renders him the best-qualified person to push the expedition as far as Repulse Bay, Others would have, as it were, to make fresh discoveries. To enable this Arctic expedition with the more facility to reach Repulse Bay, or to proceed and survey the country towards Hudson's Bay, from the Copper Mine River; a depot of provisions should be established at Fort Enterprize, or at Cape Hearne, from Canada, according as it should be determined by the Colonial department by what route such expedition should return.

Of the third or Western land expedition, destined apparently, under Captain Franklin, to explore the Arctic Sea coast between Mackenzie's River and Icy Cape, then to Kotzebue's Sound and the country be