painfully; nor could all our coverings keep us warm -as we pushed on towards Lomnitz.

The highest of the Tatra range, the Lomnitzer Spitze (head), as the Germans call it, was now directly before us, and we determined to penetrate some of its recesses, and to see something of its hidden, almost unknown beauties.

The lord of these bleak territories entertained us most hospitably, and put us in the way of accomplishing our wishes. About ten miles from Lomnitz, and just at the foot of the mountain, there is a little bathing-place, called Schmöcks; and here it was determined that we should take up our abode, and visit the neighbouring wonders at our leisure. Considerable doubts were expressed as to the possibility of our carriage arriving at its destination; but, as they said others had preceded it, I ventured to try. Surely never was a more uncouth road formed; it was impossible to sit over it, and nothing less than Stephan's skill in hanging to the wheels could have kept the carriage up.

Just at the rise of the mountain, and in a thick forest of pines, of which it may be said to form a part, - for it is built of pine-trees, and roofed with shingles of the same material,- we found Schmöcks, a pretty little settlement, which would not be out of place among the squatters of North America.

The pretensions of Schmöcks to be called a bathing-place rest on the possession of two or three cold springs, said to contain carbonic acid gas, mag

nesia, and a little carbonate of iron; and, which, among other excellent qualities, have the reputation of giving a glorious appetite. The wooden chálets, though rude in appearance, form no bad lodging-rooms; a good restaurateur is always ready to satisfy the appetite which the waters create; and the whole place, laid out with some little taste, and affording a splendid view over the valley below, is pleasant enough for a short visit. I believe it is more frequented by the healthy than the sick; for, as a starting-point to visit the Lomnitzer Head and the valleys of the Carpathians, it is decidedly the best that can be selected.

We found a large and sociable party collected in this mountain nook, to some of whom we were immediately introduced. Among others was the Countess C-who, on hearing that our route would lead us by her house, with that hospitality of which we had such frequent proofs, insisted on our making it our resting-place as long as was agreeable to us. As we joined the common table at supper, some hungry travellers came in, who had just returned from a two days' excursion, during which they had mounted the Spitze, and descended on the other side. They did not give a very favourable account of the expedition ; for after the difficulty and danger of the ascent, which they represented as considerable, had been overcome, they were unable to remain more than a few minutes on the summit on account of the intense cold. The people here say, that, of those

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THE KAHLBACHER VALLEY.

1

who attempt the ascent, very few persevere to the end. There is nothing, however, but a good-will and a stout pair of legs needed; of actual danger there is little, except in case of mists, which are rather common. We had promised to go up if Professor Sjoined us; so that we left the undertaking to the last, half in hopes he would not keep his appointment.

Before supper was over, a second party came in from chamois hunting. One fine two-year old buck was all their bag contained; but even that is considered good sport with such shy game.

Next morning, provided with a guide, and accompanied by a young artist who was murdering the beauties of nature here, we started for an excursion to the lesser Kahlbacher valley and the Fünf Seen (Five Lakes), two points which all agreed in recommending as the best worth seeing. For the first half-hour, we proceeded by a gentle ascent which brought us to the top of a hill overlooking the great Kahlbacher valley, into which we descended rapidly by a broken foot-track to a small bridge which crosses the Kahlbach, where it forms a pretty waterfall; and then following the valley lying between the Lomnitzer Spitze on one side, and the Königs Nase (King's Nose) on the other, we arrived at the opening of the lesser valley. A strange wild scene that valley presented! The blasted pine, the huge masses of shapeless rock, and the angry fretful stream seemed the sole denizens of its solitude. A little further on,