Page images
PDF
EPUB

The pontifical chapel is one of the noblest parts of the pope's establishment. It gives the law in choral music to all the other Christian churches. It is still a sort of academy, and is resorted to by young men from every state that owns the papal authority. Many persons are tempted to remain in the choir for life.

Hence a stranger is astonished at the motley assemblage of singers in the chapel. The Netherlanders and Spaniards appear more numerous than any other people. The soprano or treble parts are generally sung by Spanish boys in falset. (62) Giovanni Antimuccia, a Florentine, has long been master of the chapel. His genius is much re

strained by the rules of his musical predecessors. He has introduced, however, a new species of church music, which highly interests the Roman people. It is used in the chiesa nuova every Sunday evening. Hymns in parts are sung in the cathedral and antiphonal manner in alternate stanzas, and in dialogue with a solo part now and then for a fine voice and favorite singer. Antimuccia also preaches, and the whole performance goes under the name of Antimuccia's pious discourses, or orations. The idea of this sort of ecclesiastical service is taken from the old mysteries, which consisted of music and recitation. (63)

CHAPTER III.

NAPLES, PERUGIA, AND SIENA.

Journey from Rome to Naples.- Long continued civilization of the Neapolitans. The School of Salernum.Early Italian Poetry- Neapolitan Literature. — Valla. Panormita.- Pontano. Rota. Tansillo. Costanzo. Alessandro d'Alessandro. Sannazaro.-Vittoria Colonna.

[ocr errors]

[ocr errors]

-Veronica Gambara. State of Painting at Naples.Visit to Vida, and return to Rome. - Journey to Perugia. - Pietro Perugino.-Journey to Siena. - State of the Fine Arts in that City.

CHAPTER III.

NAPLES, PERUGIA, AND SIENA.

I

TRAVERSED with rapidity the melancholy waste of the Pontine marshes, where neither animal nor vegetable nature has for ages flourished, but which, according to Pliny, were once enriched with thirty-three cities; and, if Livy be correct, furnished corn to Rome in a season of great scarcity. I crossed the swift Amasenus, the boundary of the Pontine marshes on the Neapolitan side. Classical associations were perpetually awakened, for I soon marked some ruins of temples and palaces on a mountainous spot, where I knew the splendid town of Anxur, a favorite summer resort of the Romans, must have stood. The houses of Terracina, the modern Anxur, are as white as the houses spoken of by Horace, whenever he alludes to the ancient place. The

1

road carried me over the Formian hills, and in the vicinity of Mola, the ancient Formia, I was shown some fragments of buildings which tradition reports are the ruins of Cicero's favorite villa, and of his mausoleum. I then crossed the silent Liris, and bade adieu to Latium. I wound through the passes of Mount Massicus, went over the celebrated Campagna Felice, hurried through Capua, and arrived at Naples. Some travellers view these scenes with enthusiasm, as once the abode of those ladies of different characters and pursuits, Circe and Camilla. The minds of others are full of the lettered ease, and glorious death of Cicero. Perhaps, however, the peculiarity of most of this beautiful region is, that it pre-eminently ministered to Roman luxury. Most of the celebrated wines of the Romans, were made in the country which I traversed.

Cæcubum, et prælo domitam Caleno
Tu bibes uvam. Mea nec Falernæ
Temperant vites, neque Formiani
Pocula colles.

HORACE.

I might descant on the history of Naples with feelings of patriotic enthusiasm, for the city is of Grecian origin, and its environs have been sung by

« PreviousContinue »