group around him, describing the wonders of a ship, which he called "a waggon that moved upon the waters, and that never uitspan'd," (unyoked,) and many other marvels; he was greeted at the close of each story, when he expected applause, by the unanimous comment, "That's a lie "-a very common fate with travellers.

LETTER VII.

Wesleyville.-Its delightful Scenery.-Second and Third Missionary Stations. Interpreters and Guide.-Anecdotes of Elephants.— Strange Scene.-Hottentot Eloquence.-Grave Argument.-Artifice. Criticism and Humour.-Games.-Evening Amusements. -Shooting Hippopotami.—The River Kei.—Trying Adventure.The Incagolo.-Kaffer Chief and his Staff.-Anecdotes.

ON leaving Wesleyville, our party was increased by one of the brother chiefs, Conguar, and four of his attendants, Faarni, Chiqua, Ikey, and Claa-Claa; the last of whom joined us as we passed through a kraal near the station, where his wives had been preparing him for his departure, by colouring his body with red clay, and dressing his hair in the most finished Kaffer manner, giving it the appearance of a number of red peas covering the head. He came bounding towards us, a proud and joyous creature, at being selected to attend the Landdrost, and to visit Hinza.

I looked back from the last hill from which it was visible, on Wesleyville, with its humble white cottages crowning the gentle slope, and shaded by their bright mimosas; on its fields and gardens that lay near the stream, whose waters flowed so calmly and coolly beneath the trees; and I thought that I had never beheld a scene so calculated for rest and happiness. Such are the thoughts that arise on viewing many a spot which we are borne quickly past on life's swift current, and on which we look back with regret and longings. To destroy the phantasy, it would only be necessary to grant the wish; for we are then quickly made to feel,

"How ill the scene that offers rest,

And heart that cannot rest, agree."

The feeling was but of a moment; and when I looked forward, I was ready to exclaim,

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No, I would not exchange the excitement of my present situation, with that airy outline of beautiful mountains, and those dusky wild groups around me, for all that life could offer of refinement and tranquillity."

We visited a second missionary station, situated on a hill, named by the Kaffers, on account of its beauty, Omkamgeza,-rays of light; but which, when it became Christian, had to be re-named, and has, with a slight sacrifice of taste, been called Mount Coke;—and then proceeded to a third, which is yet in its infancy, on the Buffalo River. This was the last in the direction of our journey; though a negociation was going forward to establish one in Hinza's country, which has, I believe, proved successful.

Our new companions, among whom I should have named two interpreters and a guide, were at once useful and highly amusing. I have watched them when striding quickly before us: they beguiled the way with stories, accompanied by much action and emphasis, one speaker frequently continuing for an hour, and the word being then taken up by another. I longed to know the subject of their tales: but an interpreter is, in general, but a bungling medium of communication; and I could dis

cover little, which was the more to be regretted, as one, the history of an elephant-hunting adventure, which was explained to me, was full of interest. The speaker, when engaged in the hunt, had been pursued so closely by the animal, that the sole means of escape left to him, was creeping into the cleft formed by a sloping rock and the surface of the ground. To this retreat the enraged monster pursued him; and the Kaffer described, with the wildest action, his closely clinging to the rock, while the beast was attempting to coil his trunk round his body and to draw him out. He had lived to tell it, from so completely filling the extremity of the hollow, that no opening was left for the trunk to act; and he laughed, and showed his white teeth, as he described the baffled animal's retiring.

I have sat round their night-fires and listened to themes of discourse, to me strange and interesting, for there is a pleasure in knowing how a people, whose habits of life differ so widely from our own, think and feel; but I

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