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-to Faani, whom we called master of the horse, from his generally having the charge of the Chief's steed,-to Ikey and Chiqua, the personal attendants or soldiers, and to Claa-Claa his councillor, and relate some anecdotes of the last, who was far the most intelligent.
In proceeding on our journey, one morning, he had been mounted on one of the Landdrost's horses, which, unaccustomed to Kaffer riding, started off at a gallop, which its rider was unable to control. Onward he went; we saw him descend the dry rocky bed of a stream, and the horse rise on the other side without Claa-Claa. I rode up, expecting to find him seriously hurt; he had risen, and was rubbing his back and elbow, while he appeared indifferent to a blow on his head; which was by no means trifling, for a ledge of rock bore the red clay-mark where it had struck: a more quiet horse was given him, and we proceeded; and at the end of the day's journey I was laughing at him for not keeping his seat better, when he
asked me, through the interpreter,-" Why I laughed when I should cry?"
There was a gentleness about this tall, finely formed young Kaffer that was very engaging. One evening I asked him to extract some thorns from my hand, the Kaffers always carrying about with them an iron bodkin for that purpose: the operation was performed very carefully; and afterwards, at the end of each day's ride, he took my hands in his, and minutely examined them. Conguar, our attendant chief, was a great favourite, and I must give some of his dry characteristic speeches. One night that our bivouac was surrounded by a distant horde of Kaffers, over whom he had no control, he was asked whether our things were safe, and replied "They have told me they will take nothing; but I cannot see their hearts."
On my inquiring from him which were the most powerful chiefs in Kafferland, he replied, "Hinza," a long pause," Then Gaika-then St'lamby;" he stopped.-" And your own fa
mily comes next, I suppose."-"We are but as dogs to Hinza,—as the dust is to my foot."
One of our party was attempting to explain to him, that the moon shining above us was a world like the one on which we stood; and he listened attentively, and calmly observed when the speaker had ceased;" I will not say, that what you have told me is not so, but has any one been up to see it?"
In reply to some observation of his, I said,
Conguar, I wonder at this from you, who live so near Mr. S the missionary; I am sure
he never does so."-" Oh, Mr. S
God, and I don't know him yet."
In the morning we were to leave our station and proceed to Hinza's kraal, and much of the night was passed by the Kaffers in preparation for the great event. They anointed themselves, or, in vulgar language, smeared their bodies over with grease, and then rubbed them with red clay; their ornaments were brightened, and their heads received no slight share of attention. All this certainly did not improve their
appearance in my eyes; but that was of no consequence, for they were evidently satisfied in their own; and that the process is useful, I have little doubt, by preventing the skin cracking from exposure to heat, and being in some degree a defence against cold; and even I think that after it has been on a few days, and is well rubbed in, the effect is good, as it diffuses a general dark red tinge over the whole body, with about the degree of polish you see on a bronze statue. A fine Kaffer gives the idea of the human animal in the highest possible condition. I observed that Conguar, who wore a jacket and trowsers during the journey, never rubbed himself with clay, but with our dress affected our habits.
Having described our preparations, I will finish this letter, and in my next present you to Hinza, and return you to the Colony.
Ford the river Kei.-Hinza's Kraal.-Savage and Civilized Regrets.A Character.-Mark of Hospitality.—Adventure.-A Curious Proposal.- Namarké. More Anecdotes.- Caffrarian Ladies.Presents.-Departure from Hinza's Kraal.-Horsemanship.-Hinza. -Chaka.-Value of Wives.-Conguar's Tribe.-A Kaffer's Dog.Anecdote.-Kaffer Chief's Character.- Society.-Warfare.-Majestic Scenery. The Campanero.-Solitudes.-Motives for travelling. Hottentot Guides.-Climate.-Animals.
LEAVING Our waggon, tent, and Hottentots at the station, we forded the Kei, and ascended, with some difficulty, the steep rocky hills that skirted it; and after a fatiguing day to both men and horses, not from the distance, but the rugged nature of the country, reached Hinza's kraal. On our arrival, we found that the chief was absent at one of his places on the coast; but a messenger was immediately dispatched to him, while a hut was appropriated for our accommodation, which I, accompanied by an interpreter, went to examine, and found its own