BULBS FOR FORCING: A. R. B. If you have the use of the houses from November to March only, we doubt if it is wise for you to force Irises at all. Had you the use of frames in addition to the continuous use of the houses the Iris crop would come in useful enough as a succession to the earliest forced Daffodils, Irises cannot be successfully forced in the ordinary way because they require a long season of preparation. The boxes will do quite well and are more satisfactory for the purpose than any other receptacle. Bulbs planted below ground in the greenhouse are of little value for purposes of early forcing, and remain far too long uninfluenced by the internal conditions of the house. A frame, or frames, beside the greenhouses on the south side. would be best for the Iris crop till early in February, at which time the greenhouse and the temperature you name (50°) would prove suitable. It is impossible to say whether these would be more remunerative than last year's crop, for no two seasons are alike in this respect. There should be more profit on the large number of bulbs you forced, but, although we know the dates on which they flowered were moderately early, you do not state whether or not the bulbs flowered satisfactorily. We think that either many bulbs failed to flower or the quality was not first class. Had you given us some idea of the manner in which the houses are heated and the average temperature that can be maintained in winter we might have suggested other plants, Tulips for example. Tulips, however, when used for early forcing succeed best when bottom heat is afforded. would Irises prove good substitutes for early Narcissus. We would suggest Hyacinths as a catch crop rather than as a primary one. DANDELIONS: G. S. You did wrong to allow the plants to seed: they should have been mown down before they reached the seeding stage. Perhaps you have no power to mow over the adjoining fields, in which case we are afraid you can do nothing but exterminate the seedlings as they appear in your garden. FOLIAGE PLANTS AT AN EXHIBITION: F. L. The Cycads and the Palms are quite distinct, and you need have no fear of entering a Cycas in your exhibit along with a Palm. In no case HOLLY: T. B. D. & Co. The variety of Holly appears to be similar to that known as nigrescens. We are unable to explain why birds avoid the berries. LABURNUM ADAMI : J. J. F. There is nothing very unusual in your specimen of this tree bearing three kinds of flowers, although it is true, as you say, that the production of only two kinds is more common. Besides the ordinary flowers of the hybrid L. Adami your tree is also bearing the flowers of the two parents, viz., the common Laburnum (yellow) and Cytisus purpureus (purple). We have noticed a tree in the Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew which for some years past has regularly borne the three sorts of flowers (see note and illustration in Gardeners' Chronicle, September 24, 1904, p. 217.) The double-flowered form of Prunus triloba does occasionally form young fruits like those you send, but we think you will find that they will soon drop off. We, at any rate, have never known such fruits to attain maturity. LAWN: F. J. H. A good turf is not to be had in a season or two from the sowing of the seed. It will need careful mowing and rolling, and then in time the fine matting of roots and stem will give the springy sward desired. The application of a mulching of manure in the autumn, and small doses of artificial manures now the grass is growing freely will all tend to stimulate and strengthen the grass. MANURE FOR CARNATIONS: Dunsland Carnations will succeed in any ordinary soil, from light, sandy loam to a firm clay, but they prefer a moderately rich loamy soil. A compost consisting of well-rotted turf with one-fourth its bulk of decomposed manure, adding bushel of air-slacked lime and bushel of wood ashes to every load of soil, would be very suitable. If the turf used is from a clayey soil, horse droppings are recommended; if from a light, sandy soil, use cow manure. For a medium class of soil use a mixture of horse and cow manure. It is certain that Carnations thrive better in every way in fresh or virgin soil. No potting material can beat fresh loam obtained from the top spit of a pasture. Out-of-door beds should be prepared in September by trenching the soil to a depth of 18 inches. The soil of the first trench is thrown out, and the bottom or subsoil broken up, then a good layer of cow manure and a sprinkling of superphosphate is put in, the top spit of the next trench being turned on the manure. At the same time keep a sharp look out for wire worm, which is one of the worst enemies of the Carnation. Add another layer of cow manure and superphosphate, and so on as the work progresses. With the fine soil incorporate some lime rubbish and soot. The soil recommended for pot culture is two parts fibrous loam and one part well decomposed leafmould, with a good sprinkling of sand. Apply a good watering after the potting is done and plunge the pots into cocoa fibre or coal ashes in a cold frame, keeping the plants as near to the glass as is practicable. Carnations should not be over-fed with manures, nor grown in an excessively heated atmosphere, for if this is done the constitution of the plants becomes impaired, and disease quickly sets in. All varieties of these plants require a lasting, rather than a forcing manure; that is, one which becomes available slowly but regularly. For pot culture use a little bone meal or horse hoof parings from a shoeing shop if you can get them. If the plants look weakly add 1 oz. of nitrate of potash (saltpetre), to each gallon of water and apply this once a week. Our MELON ROOT: T. M. G. The roots you send were badly infested with eel-worm. All the old soil in which they have been grown should be turned out of the house and sterilised by burning. The surroundings in the Melon pit should be thoroughly drenched with a solution composed of carbolic acid in the proportion of one part to twenty of water. NAMES OF FLOWERS, FRUITS AND PLANTS.-We are anxious to oblige correspondents as far as we consistently can, but they must bear in mind that it is no part of our duty to subscribers to name either flowers or fruits. Such work entails considerable outlay, both of time and money, and cannot be allowed to disorganise the preparations for the weekly issue, or to encroach upon time required for the conduct of the paper. Correspondents should never send more than six plants or fruits at one time: they should be very careful to pack and label them properly, to give every information as to the county the fruits are grown in, and to send ripe, or nearly ripe, specimens which show the character of the variety. By neglecting these precautions correspondents add greatly to our labour, and run the risk of delay and incorrect determinations. Correspondents not answered in one issue are requested to be so good as to consult the following numbers. PLANTS: Primula. Primula cortusoides ("Sieboldi ').-E. R. F. 1, Saxifraga tricuspidata: 2, S. species; 3, S. hirta; 4, S. muscoides. -Hugh Aldersey. 1, Erodium hymenodes; 2, Saxifraga lingulata; 3, S. cotyledon var.; 4, S. Aizoon; 5, S. Hostii; 6, S. elatior.-E. 4, Baptisia australis.-J. W. H. 1, Lonicera, sp. near L. Xylosteum; 2, L. tatarica var. punicea; 3, Spirea cantoniensis; 4, Lonicera involucrata; 5, Viburnum Opulus; 6, Magnolia acuminata.E. D. L. 1, Fritillaria pyrenaica; 2, Clematis montana; 3, Cryptomeria japonica; 4, Sequoia sempervirens; 5, Abies cephalonica; 6, Picea excelsa pygmæa.-A. B. 1, Rosa spinosissima var. altaica; 2, Acer japonicum var. filicifolium; 3, Leucothoe Catesbaei; 4, Cornus alba; 5, Berberis Aquifolium var. macrophylla; 6, Caragana arborescens.-F. J., Hants. 1, Fraxinus Ornus; 2, Spiræa Van Houttei; 3, Kerria japonica fl. pl.; 4, Spiræa arguta; 5, Picea orientalis; 6, Juniperus chinensis; 7, Spiræa prunifolia fl. pl.-S. P. 1, Distylium racemosum variegatum; 2, Cotoneaster buxifolia.T. A. 1, Ærides odoratum; 2, Brassia verrucosa; 3, Miltonia Russeliana; 4, Odontoglossum blandum; 5. Odontoglossum Hunnewellianum; 6, Lycaste plana.-J. R. Varieties of Iris germanica. The flowers were quite over when received, and as the class is so numerous it is difficult to name them correctly, even from good blooms.-N. G., Wales. 1, Oncidium prætextum: 2, Oncidium crispum.-L. E. W. Dendrobium fimbriatum.-V. I. M. 1, Selaginella lævigata; 2, Pteris longifolia; 3, Adiantum assimile.-H. L. M. 1, Pyrus Aria; 2, Geranium pratense; 3, Geum coccineum; 4, Mespilus germanica (Medlar); 5, Arbutus Unedo; 6. Not recognised, send when in flower.F. W. J. 1, Geum grandiflorum (very fine form); 2, Veronica, send when in flower; 3, Begonia Arthur Malet; 4, Cyperus longis; 5, Begonia incarnata; 6, Pteris cretica var. Wimsettii. T. P. 1, Odontoglossum citrosmum; 2, Brassia verrucosa.-W. C, P. The sorrel is Rumex Acetosa; 2, Lepidium Smithii.-H. C. Fraxinus Ornus.-F. W. 1, Agathæa cœlestis; 2, Cedronella triphylla (Balm of Gilead); 3, probably Diplacus glutinosus (no flowers); 4, send in flower; 5, Eupatorium Weinmannianum; 6, Cassia corymbosa; 7, Anthericum lineare variegatum.-Defiance. 1, Potentilla variabilis; 2. Asperula stylosa; 3, Anchusa italica; 4, Eschscholtzia californica; 5, Geranium sanguineum; 6, Muscari comosum.-Fresco. 1, Veronica spicata; 2, Saxifraga species; 3, Helianthemum vulgare; 4, Sedum species; 5, Thalictrum adiantifolium; 6, Saxifraga hypnoides. — C. B. L. S. Paulownia imperalis; it is common in gardens in favourable localities, but is not planted so extensively as formerly. PEACHES DROPPING: R. M. There is no fungus present; the dropping is due to some cultural defect, probably improper watering of the border during the resting season. PEAR LEAVES INJURED: E. M. C. and G. W. R. The injury has been caused by the Pear-leaf blister-mite. Spray the trees thoroughly with paraffin emulsion prepared by boiling together equal proportions of paraffin and soft soap. This should be thoroughly mixed with 25 times its bulk of water. Spray in the autumn and again in the early spring when the leaf buds are expanding. PRESERVING SPECIMENS OF CONIFEROUS TREES: H. A. W. There is no satisfactory way of preventing Conifer "needles" from becoming detached. The best plan is to lightly touch the under surface with a film of seccotine, but it is impossible to secure them all. The loose ones may be kept in an envelope attached to the page. The season of the year for gathering the specimens, and the dipping of the specimens into boiling water, have been the subjects of experiment, but with no success. We have sometimes stitched the needles down to the paper in their places with dark cotton, but this was a tedious process, and, after all, they soon became detached from the stem. RAINFALL: A. J. You will receive this information from the Meteorological Office, 63, Vic toria Street, London, S. W. The records of the rainfall at Chiswick for a period of 60 years is published in the Royal Horticultural Society's Journal. ROSE RUST: B. M. & Sons. The Orange-coloured appearance of the shoots is due to the presence of a fungus, Phragmidium subcorticatum. The appearance of the disease in spring depends on the presence of resting spores from the previous autumn. It is, therefore, necessary to collect and burn all fallen leaves in the autumn. Spraying with diluted Bordeaux mixture or ammoniated carbonate of copper solution will check the spread of the disease. The fungus also grows on wild Roses, and these may become a source of infection unless proper precautions are taken. STRAWBERRY FLAVOURING: F. R. A. We have no knowledge of any special variety used for flavouring ice-cream. TULIPS DISEASED: Miss G. and A. R. The mould on the leaves-Botrytis cinerea-is a dangerous pest, and has been favoured by the wet weather. The soil in which the bulbs were planted should be given a dressing of gas lime, otherwise the infection will spread. Seed produced by plants of the diseased Forget-me-Nots should not be kept. WILLOW DISEASED: Windermere. The injury is due to a well-known fungus-Physalospora salicis. The only remedy is to remove and burn as much as possible of the injured parts to prevent further infection. COMMUNICATIONS RECEIVED.-Aldersey (Thanks for 2s. for R.G.O.F.).-F. Denis (France).-C. B. M. (a note upon the book mentioned was published in our last issue).-Sutton and Sons-A. W.-E. H. Krelage-Mrs. RichmondJ. B.-H. J. E.-H. E. E.-Rev. W. R. W.-J. D. G.R. H. C.-S. C.-C. Sprenger-True Blue-A. J. H.F. Z.-De B. Crawshay-W. A. C.-F. M., DublinH. M. V.-H. J. C.-H. L. B.-H. W. W.-T. A. H.Rivers-W. H. D.-G. S. S.-W. M.-W. H. C.-J. G. W. -G. W.-C. P.-E. T. C.-W. L.-G. W.-P. B.-Rubrum-K. S. L.-F. G. B.-W. D. & S.-H. H. J.-G. W. -J. W.-Anxious-J. G. B.-E. R.-F. C.-W. T.-R. S. -W. T.-G. M.-G. W. R.-P. M. G.-J. A.-E. P. D.E. R.-G. & Co. 408 ILLUSTRATIONS. Gladiolus" The Bride" Hardy fruit garden Polygonum Baldschuanicum Rhododendron "Duke of Cornwall" (Supplementary Odontoglossum crispum heatonense Illustration) Fir Grange, Weybridge Trillium grandiflorum Rose, a proliferous 404 405 405 398 409 412 416 THE CONSTRUCTION OF T DRIVES AND PATHS. HE object of a drive or path is to provide easy access to the main features of interest in its locality, and in such a manner as to enable them to be viewed to the best advantage. through a cutting of heather-clad rocks, and so on. Should the required drive lead to the top of a steep hill, it will sometimes be advisable to assume a zig-zag course, and consequently turn rather abruptly at the corners; ample provision must be made for turning these corners safely, and it is well to err on the safe side as regards allowing sufficient space. The course to be taken should be accurately mapped out by means of wooden pegs driven firmly into the ground at convenient intervals. The work of construction will have to be carried out according to circumstances and the kind of drive or path desired. The heavier the traffic is expected to be, the more solid must the drive be constructed. In the formation of either drives or walks, it is usually best to make up the sides first, so as to obtain a good line, and if the gradient can be so arranged that the soil from the cuttings can be made sufficient for all filling that may be required in other parts, so much the better. One of the most delightful, and at the same time most natural, means of access is the grass-covered path, which enables one to get within easy reach of subjects of individual interest, such as a group of flowering shrubs, or a particular tree, or some choice specimen on the rock-garden; also for woodland purposes a grass vista is often very desirable. Provided the ground is fairly even, and the woods not too dense to admit a certain amount of sunshine, a grass-covered walk can be formed with very little trouble, either by levelling the surface of the existing grass and adding a little additional turf where necessary, Before deciding upon the course of a drive, it is well to go very thoroughly over the ground, not only with a view of mapping out the most attractive direction, but also the most convenient gradient, which should be as uniform as possible, and in no case exceed a fall of one foot in eight. Straight lines should, generally speaking, be avoided, and in their place a succession of long, sweeping curves should be made, which will present, as one proceeds, an ever-varying change of scenery. It may lead, we will suppose, from the vicinity of a dwelling-house through the open park or garden into an adjoining wood, emerging from under the shade of lofty forest trees to an open glade, upon which Primroses, Bluebells, and other native wild flowers vie with each other for supremacy; next, turning a corner and following, through a plantation of Willows or Alders, the course of a babbling brook, afterwards ascending or by sowing seeds of a suitable mixture of woodland grasses along the track after it has been brought to the required level. One of the greatest attractions of a grass-covered path is, as before mentioned, its natural appearance, and the ease with which its surroundings can be beautified by means of wild flowers, naturalised bulbs, &c. drive for the purpose of conducting the sur- Outlet pipes from gully holes should be The ordinary drive, by which is under- Such a path may vary in width from 5 to 20 feet, according to the space available; 20 feet wide it might also be used for occasional light traffic and sporting purposes. The ground should be well drained, and if the soil is very retentive, additional drainage should be provided by forming a small ditch along each side of the walk. If a drive has to be made which will form an approach to the dwelling-house, it must be so constructed as to effectually withstand all kinds of traffic without injury, and allowance must be made in excavating, for the spreading of 8 to 12 inches of hard, porous material over the surface of the drive. Upon the completion of the necessary excavations, provision must be made for suitable drainage. In some cases it will suffice to turn the surface water on to the adjoining land by means of outlet channels. This, however, is not always possible or desirable, in which case a drain of 3 or 4-inch pipes should be run along the course of the drive, either in the centre, which is preferable, or at the side. The pipes should be laid at about 3 feet deep, and be filled over with rubble, in order to conduct the water. So-called gully-holes, consisting of square holes built in brick, and fitted at the top with an iron grid, should be constructed at intervals along the side of the The advantages of a grass covered path have already been referred to, but where the soil is poor and the ground uneven, a gravel path is preferable, and has the advantage, if well made, of being dry to walk upon all the year round. A few inches of rough, moderately-solid material may be used with advantages as a foundation for the gravel to work into. By means of a path, access should be possible to such features of interest as cannot easily be reached, on account of the gradient or other reasons, by the drive, and as such a path can easily be furnished with steps, the question of gradient need not be taken into consideration. Having completed the necessary preparatory work according to the requirements, there arises the question of the most suitable material for strengthening purposes. The best material to be used will depend on circumstances, and a good selection may be made from among the following:-Basalt stone, granite, limestone, shingle, cinders, bricks, builders' refuse, and clay. Except where the proposed drive is to stand the wear and tear of heavy and constant traffic, it is generally best to make use of such of the materials mentioned as are most easily obtainable in the district. It often happens, especially in hilly districts, that suitable stone can be found within easy carting distance upon the estate, or even be procured from the excavated material of the drive itself. P. M. BOTANICAL WORKS OF THE LATE DR. MASTERS. (Continued from page 378.) IT has been mentioned that Dr. Masters had many special studies, among which vegetable teratology held the foremost place for many years. In Taxonomy he was an acknowledged authority on the orders Coniferæ, Restiaceæ, Aristolochiacea, and Passifloraceæ. Excluding the contributions on the Coniferæ which appeared in the Gardeners' Chronicle, his writings on this order are more numerous and more comprehensive than on any other, and appeal equally to the botanist and horticulturist. The principal papers are in the Journal of the Linnean Society, beginning with: "Notes on the Relations between the Morphology and Physiology in the Leaves of Certain Conifers," 1880, vol. xvii., pp. 547-552, and followed by II., "The Conifers of Japan," 1881, vol. xviii., pp. 473-524, tt. 19 and 20, and many figures in the text. III., "Contributions to the History of Certain Species of Conifers," 1886, vol. xxii., pp. 169212, tt. 2-10, and numerous figures in the text. IV., Review of some Points in the Comparative Morphology, Anatomy, and Life-History of the Coniferæ," 1890, vol. xxvii., pp. 226-332, with 29 figures in the text. V., "Notes on the Genera of Taxaceæ and Coniferæ," 1893, vol. xxx., pp. 1-42. VI., "A General View of the Genus Cupressus," 1896, vol. xxxi., pp. 312-363, with numerous figures in the text. VII., "Coniferæ of China," in Forbes' and Hemsley's "Enumeration of the Plants of China," 1902, vol. xxvi., pp. 540-559. VIII., "A General View of the Genus Pinus," 1904, vol. xxxv., pp. 560-659, tt. 20-23. IX., "On the Conifers of China," 1906, vol. xxxvii., pp. 410-424. Masters also took the leading part at the Conifer Conference of the Royal Horticultural Society in 1892, and delivered the opening address, the theme of which is, "Some Features of Interest in the Order of Conifers." He also contributed a "List of Conifers and Taxads in Cultivation in the Open Air in Great Britain and Ireland." This is really much more than a list, containing, as it does, historical, bibliographical, and descriptive information, and a copious synonymy of the genera and species. It appeared in the Society's Journal, 1892, N.S., vol. xiv., pp. 179-256, and it was also issued separately. There are some smaller contributions on Conifers, such as: "De Coniferis quibusdam sinicis vel japonicis Adnotationes quaedam," in Bulletin de l'Herbier Boissier, 1898, vol. vi., pp. 269-274. II., "Taxodium and Glyptostrobus," in Journal of Botany, 1900, vol. xxxviii., pp. 37-40. III., "Chinese Conifers Collected by E. H. Wilson," in Journal of Botany, 1903, vol. xli., pp. 267270. Finally, the first paper on the list for reading at the meeting of the Linnean Society on Thursday last, June 20, was one by the late Dr. Masters, "On the Distribution of Conifers in China and Neighbouring Countries." The foregoing list does not pretend to be a complete bibliography of Dr. Masters' contributions to the literature of the Coniferæ; but it includes all the papers to which I have references at hand as likely to be useful. One exception deserves to be made with regard to the Gardeners' Chronicle, namely, "Description of West American Conifers," 1880, vol. xiii., p. 648; 1880, vol. xiv., p. 720; 1881, vol. xv., pp. 179, 236, 660; 1883, vol. xix., p. 45. I had almost forgotten the fact that Masters was a contributor to the great Pinetum Britannicum. Passing to the elegant and curiously-constructed Passifloraceæ, the most important work is the monograph of the South American species in the Flora Brasiliensis, 1872, vol. xiii., pp. 529-628, tt. 106-128. In this monograph, Tacsonia is treated as a genus, and 25 species are described; all Andine, or, at least, western; none Brazilian. Of Passiflora itself, 175 species are described, nearly half of which are Brazilian. Since that date many new species have been discovered in South America, most of which were described by Masters himself. There is also the new genus, Mitostemma, Masters, of two species; one from British Guiana, the other from Brazil. No one knew better than Masters that there were connecting links between typical Passiflora and typical Tacsonia, but he preferred retaining them as separate genera to the end. On this point he makes the following observation under Tacsonia : "Genus sat naturale cum Passiflora ab auctoribus pluribus conjunctum, differt ab illa florum forma, coronæ dispositione nec non distributione geographica specierum. Species intermediæ, quae a Candolleo in Tac FIG. 165-CLUMP OF GLADIOLUS "THE BRIDE": FLOWERS WHITE. soniæ sectiones Distephana et Psilanthus disponuntur, mihi rectius ad Passifloras veras pertinere videntur." Since the foregoing was written, further connecting links have been discovered, yet it seems more convenient for practical purposes to keep up both. Passiflora fuchsiiflora (Hooker's Icones Plantarum, t. 2553) again, is a Dilkea in structure, except that it has only three stylearms instead of four. In regard to the distribution of Passiflora, Masters remarks that no indigenous species had been found in Africa, and recent explorations in all directions have not yielded one, though sev. eral very curious new genera of the order Passifloraceæ have been discovered in that country. Only two species were known to inhabit India, and the number has not been increased, but, including unpublished ones, six new species have been found in Western China. Unfortunately, the colossal Flora Brasiliensis is accessible to comparatively few persons, but Masters published the results of his studies and researches in various places. His "Contribu. tions to the Natural History of the Passi. floraceæ" (Transactions of the Linnean Society, 1871, vol. xxvii., pp. 593-646, tt. 64 and 65) are very comprehensive and highly interesting, treating, among other things, of the organo. graphy, development of the various organs, tera tology, anatomy, fertilisation, and germination of the order. The beautiful and often complex coronal structures are described in detail. Under the head of corona is included all that series of rings, scales, or threads intervening between the petals and the stamens. From their almost universal presence in the species of the order, their variety of form, and the parts they play in the physiological functions of the flower, considerable interest attaches to them. The corona is met with in its greatest complexity in some species of Passiflora, and in its greatest simplicity in the genera Malesherbia and Gynopleura. In the latter it exists only as a thickened rim or a series of tubercles projecting from the margin of the floral-tube, whereas in some species of Passifiora, such as P. quadrangularis, it is exceedingly complex. Masters describes the different series from above downwards. I., perfect rays, consisting of two or three rows, of distinct threads. II., imperfect rays, consisting of a variable number of short and, as it were, imperfect or rudimentary threads. III., a membranous ring, the "false operculum" found in P. quadrangularis and in one or two other species only. IV., a membranous sheath called the "operculum," which shuts off the nectary proper from the upper part of the flower-tube. Below this there is, in some species, a thickened rim projecting from the side of the nectary and partially dividing it into two compartments, an upper and a lower. Lastly, there is sometimes a shallow membrane or thickened cup at the base of the gynophore. In this connection we might extract from the paragraphs on fertilisation did space permit; but, passing over many minor papers, chiefly descriptions of new species, we come to the useful" Classified Synonymic List of all the Species of Passifloraceae Cultivated in European gardens, with references to the works in which they are figured." This appeared in the Journal of the Royal Horticultural Society, 1874, vol. iv., pp. 125-148, tt. 6-8, and a new edition brought up to date is very desirable. (To be continued.) GLADIOLUS "THE BRIDE." THE pure white variety of Gladiolus Colvillei is by far the most hardy of all the early Gladioli, and may be grown in a light, well-drained soil without difficulty. A spot which is exposed to full sunshine on a south terrace suits this plant perfectly, and a few bulbs, planted in such a position in August, will quickly increase, forming a handsome group after the lapse of a year or two. The flowers open in June. Bulbs grown in this way for three years should then be taken up after the foliage has died away in summer. The finest of the bulbs can be selected for forcing if desired, replanting the others in a fresh position without delay. They succeed best when not removed from the soil for any length of time, as they naturally start into growth early in the autumn. A mulch of well-decayed manure should be laid over them in March every year, and in cold districts it may be desirable to cover them with a conical pile of fine coal-ashes during the winter; but they do not appear to suffer from frost when cultivated in a well-drained position. 1. L. R. flowers represent one, is sent by F. Menteith Ogilvie, Esq., The Shrubbery, Oxford (gr. Mr. Balmforth). There are five segments of the nature of sepals, and one which is part sepal and part petal, the other three petals being perfect. There are two labellums diverging right and left, and two columns joined from the ovary to near the apex. All the parts are regularly displayed, and the colour is primroseyellow spotted with reddish-brown, the sepals having the larger spots and the petals the smaller, together with a thin reddish line at the base, and which can be traced in the part of a petal which is joined to a sepal. EPIDENDRUM (NANODES) MEDUSÆ. A VERY fine specimen of this extraordinary species is in bloom in the gardens of Malcolm S. Cooke, Esq., Tankerville, Kingston Hill (gr. Mr. Buckle), where it is considered one of the most attractive of cool house Orchids. The long fleshy stems, furnished with two rows of greyishgreen leaves, are pendulous, and bear at their extremities one or two flowers of thick substance, the showy portion of which is the orbicular, deeply-fringed, claret-purple labellum, which measures from 2 to 3 inches across. With its drooping growths furnished with a good number of these very remarkable flowers, the specimen is a fine object. It was described as Nanodes Medusa by Reichenbach in the Gardeners' Chronicle, 1867, p. 432, and was figured in the Botanical Magazine, t. 5723. EPIDENDRUM (NANODES) MATTHEWSII is also in cultivation. It is of dwarf tufted habit and bears pretty ruby-purple tinted flowers. Both species remain for a long time in flower. The Nanodes should be grown in baskets or Orchid pans, and suspended in the Odontoglossum house or the coolest part of the Cattleya house. DENDROBIUM THYRSIFLORUM GALLICEANUM. A PHOTOGRAPH of an ally of this singular variety, which was figured in Lindenia, VI., t. 241, is sent by Mr. R. Robinson, Roath Park, Cardiff, who also sent an inflorescence to the Temple Show, but which arrived in a withered condition. The photograph shows a fine plant with three spikes, and the flowers have the sepals and petals as in typical D. thyrsiflorum, but the labellums by an abnormal development which is in this plant, as in the original D. t. Galliceanum, a fixed character, are narrowed, elongated, not cupped, the colour being whitish tinged with yellow. It is a very singular and pretty variety. POLYGONUM BALDSCHU ANICUM. THIS hardy, perennial-climbing plant, introduced from Bokhara, is now better known in gardens than in 1897, when we reproduced a photograph kindly sent us by M. V. Lemoine, of Nancy. At the same time, from numerous enquiries we receive respecting this species, it is evident that there are many gardeners who have not cultivated it, and therefore the illustration at fig. 166 may serve to show what a charming species it is for training over tree stumps, pillars, fences, or pergolas. The plants are now approaching the flowering period, and they will continue in bloom until the end of summer. Polygonum Baldschuanicum, like most of the other species, succeeds in ordinary garden soil, but this should be well enriched with manure, in order that the plants may be able to make long and stout growths, capable of flowering profusely as shown in the illustration. The flowers have been described as pink, and white on various occasions, owing partly to slight variability in the plants, and to the different conditions in which they are cultivated. If the plants are introduced to artificial heat it has the effect of destroying the pink colour. |