TREES AND SHRUBS.

LABURNUMS.

THE freedom in which these beautiful deciduous trees have flowered this season has caused much admiration. Many gardeners appear quite satisfied with the beauty of the common variety, but there are others that are superior in every respect, and that produce flower-sprays which measure from 12 to 18 inches in length. As individual specimens on the grass few trees can excel the beauty of Labur. nums, and, if arranged in groups, their effect is visible for some considerable distance. They will also thrive and furnish a good effect by the water side, or when planted on slopes, in parks or woods. Many varieties of the common Labur. num (L. vulgare) are to be seen, but these are seedlings, and, in some cases, are scarcely worth planting. The named sorts are usually budded upon stocks of the common variety, and the union of stock and scion can be detected either within a few inches of the ground, or, if standards are required quickly, some 5 or 6 feet of the common stock is allowed to grow before the bud or graft is inserted. I mention this because I have seen some cases in which the stock had outgrown the scion, which had, therefore, died. A conclusion must not be arrived at too quickly in the case of the graft hybrid L. Adamsii, the purple-flowered Laburnum, if yellow blooms are found intermixed with them, for it frequently happens this particular kind has not only separate branches of yellow flowers, but the two separate colours, yellow and purple, occur on the same shoots (see Gardeners' Chronicle, September 24, 1904, p. 219).

The usual form of standard is not the only means whereby these Laburnums may be grown in order to display their flowers to advantage; pyramids, as an instance, are in some cases preferable, while the practice of training the branches thinly and nailing them to the walls of dwelling-houses, provides an attractive feature. They are also very suitable for covering arches and pergolas, and the long flower-sprays of the varieties Vossii and Watereri hanging above one's head produce an effect that well deserves the name of "Golden Rain" sometimes applied to varieties of Laburnum. Of several varieties grown in these gardens, the best is certainly Vossii. The trusses, in some cases, measure 24 inches in length, and it flowers profusely. This and all the other Laburnums flower variety freely in pots, and form excellent subjects for decorating the conservatory or dwelling. house early in the season. Next in order of merit is Watereri: the habit of the tree is closegrowing, and it is a very beautiful kind, with long racemes of flowers of a pale tint, very freely produced, and remaining in good condition for a considerable time; this variety forms a good succession to the common kind. Parksii is a large-flowered variety, and somewhat darker in tint than the two already mentioned, but perhaps its most distinctive feature is its large, bright-green, glossy foliage, which is very much like that of the commoner autumnalis. The golden-coloured foliage and flowers of the same hue are pleasing in this variety, and, for small and large gardens alike, it should be used much more freely than at present. As a single specimen upon the lawn the Weeping Laburnum has a distinct charm, and, if it hangs over the water, it is even more effective. Other desirable varieties are Alschingeri, crispum, Gumperi, and fragrans. The present time is a favourable one to make a selection of varieties for planting in the autumn. W. H. Clarke, Aston Rowant, Oxon.

THE ALPINE GARDEN.

CAMPANULA GARGANICA HIRSUTA
ALBA.

FEW Alpine Campanulas are more satisfactory even in northern gardens than C. garganica hirsuta, where it appears to thrive even better than the typical C. garganica. The whiteflowered variety, C. g. hirsuta alba, is still far from plentiful. In habit it is practically a replica of the blue form, but has white flowers and is of rather less vigorous growth. The plant is a good subject for a sunny rockery, or it may be planted in wall gardens. This little white Bellflower is increased by cuttings inserted in summer time. A mixture of sand, loam, and grit form a suitable rooting medium. S. A.

The Week's Work.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

By A. C. BARTLETT, Gardener to Mrs. FORD, Pencarrow, Cornwall.

Hedge-pruning.-As soon as the deciduous subjects have completed their growth, the hedges should be pruned. This work is often, through press of circumstances, delayed until the current growth has become tough and hard to cut; the secondary growth is then made late in the autumn and, failing to become properly ripened, gets cut by early frosts. Whenever possible, the pruning should be done with a pair of secateurs in preference to using shears and hooks, which slice the leaves and give the hedge a very unattractive appearance.

Topiary work will now entail much labour in pruning, stopping, and tying-in. Great care and patience must be exercised, as an error of judg ment would, for a season at least, spoil any beauty this type of gardening possesses. It is usual to entirely entrust this work to one man, who, as a natural result of practice and experience, can carry out the work with greater satisfaction than would be the case if several men were employed.

Border Carnations.-These plants usually bear such a profusion of flower buds that to ensure flowers of good quality it is necessary to thin out the buds, leaving from three to five on each stem. The stalks should be kept tied to slender, inconspicuous sticks. The surface soil should be frequently hoed, and if a dressing of artificial manure be applied at this stage it will be beneficial.

Wallflowers.-Transplant the seedlings into the reserve garden before they become drawn and crowded in the seed bed. The seed bed should be in a fairly open situation, and a liberal quan. tity of leafmould, or manure from an old Mushroom bed, should be forked into the top spit, so that the plants will "lift" with a good "ball" of soil next October, when they are moved to their flowering quarters. Plant them out in rows, drawn at distances of one foot, putting the plants 9 inches apart in the rows. The Dutch hoe may then be freely worked on the surface soil as occasion requires. As soon as the plants have become established, pinch out the leading shoot to induce a dwarf and compact habit.

Double Wallflowers need to be increased by cuttings, which should be moderately firm in texture, but not tough and wiry. When possible, secure shoots having a "heel" of old wood attached to them. They will be the more certain to make roots if they are firmly inserted in pots or boxes of sandy soil, and kept close in a cold frame. When roots have formed the plants should be planted out in the same manner as seedlings.

FRUITS UNDER GLASS.

By ALEXANDER KIRK, Gardener to J. THOMSON PATON, Esq., Norwood, Alloa, Clackmannanshire.

Pineapples.-Early started Queens, from which the fruit has been cut, should have the suckers detached, and these suckers should be potted up into 6-inch pots. The old plants may afterwards be thrown out. Provide each pot with perfect drainage, and pot the suckers firmly in turfy loam. Plunge the pots in a bed having considerable bottom heat, and the plants will soon make roots. Shade them from bright sunshine, and keep the house close and the atmosphere moist. Suckers that are already well rooted should now be potted into the pots in which they will fruit next year.

Plants that are swelling their fruits require a moist atmosphere, and a temperature of 95° during the day and 80° at night. When air has been admitted during the day, let the ventilators be closed again early in the afternoon. Afford manure water in a tepid condition twice each week to all such plants.

Figs. As soon as the crop is gathered, supply the plants with manure water whether they are growing in pots or borders. Apply a fresh mulch of short stable litter in order that it may assist in the development of the second crop. Syringe the trees freely, maintaining a moist atmosphere, and guard against the appearance of red spider.

Peaches and Nectarines.-Where early crops have been gathered, syringe the trees three times

a week, and if red spider has been troublesome syringe every day with a solution of soft soap, hot water, and sulphur, as directed in a previous Calendar. This will keep the foliage fresh and clean throughout the summer. Keep both top and bottom ventilators open both night and day. If the borders are found to be in the least dry give them a thorough watering. A most important item in their culture at this season is to thin out the shoots wherever the trees appear to be overcrowded with young wood. Remove bare shoots and those that will not be required to tie in for next year's crop. This system of pruning prevents 'gumming," and allows the remaining shoots to thoroughly matured.

become

In the later house, where the Peaches and Nectarines are stoning, the trees require to be kept comparatively cool, as they must not be hurried at this particular stage. Examine the trees and give the fruits a final thinning, always leaving those fruits which are placed on the upper side of the shoot. Syringe the trees until colouring commences night and morning, except where mildew is feared; in such cases, the afternoon syringing must not be practised. The atmos phere can be kept humid by partly closing the house early in the afternoon. Tie in all young growths it is wished to retain, but cut out any that are of extra and undesirable strength. Keep a sharp look-out for red spider.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

By WILLIAM H. HONESS, Gardener to C. COMBE, Esq., Cobham Park, Surrey.

Peas.-Plants raised from the sowings made last November will now be in full bearing. We commenced on the 6th inst. to gather Peas from the variety Little Marvel sown 13 November and cultivated on a south border. Continue to make further sowings for producing late supplies. All plants that are well advanced in growth should be given a good mulching of stable litter. If the weather be comes dry afford them a good soaking of water, and syringe them overhead early in the evening. This will greatly assist the pods to set and the Peas to develop; make another sowing of Sugar Peas if this type is appreciated. Sugar Peas should be afforded the same liberal treatment as is advised for ordinary Peas, for if neglected in dry seasons the plants soon become exhausted.

Brussels Sprouts.-If the work has not already been done, the main crop of these should be planted out at the first opportunity, for undoubtedly this is the most appreciated of all winter vegetables, and failure, or but indifferent results would cause great disappointment.

Broccoli and late Cauliflowers.-Make further plantings of these, and all other winter vege tables. Afford them waterings in the event of dry weather occurring before the roots get well established in the soil, and if the surface of the ground should become "caked," this must be broken by the use of the hoe. Should the weather remain showery, frequent hoeings will be all that are necessary.

Leeks should be planted out at once in ground which has been prepared previously. Plant them in rows made from 6 to 12 inches apart, in holes which should be deep enough to contain the plants so that the base of the leaves only will appear above ground. If the soil is very dry at the time of planting, it will be well to pour water into the holes before inserting the plants.

Carrots.-Early varieties should be sown now for drawing whilst young, and if another sowing be made a little later on, in a border where they can remain throughout the winter, if covered with a few leaves, the crop will be found very serviceable.

Onions. For the raising of young plants for use in the making of salads, seeds should be sown at frequent intervals, as it is advisable to have these young and tender.

General work.-Close attention must be given to all crops in the kitchen garden, in the matter of keeping them free from weeds; the surface soil should be broken frequently, and a loose, crumb-like layer kept as a surface. If watering has to be resorted to, this work must be done thoroughly, and it must be repeated at intervals until a heavy rainfall occurs, when it may cease to be necessary.

PLANTS UNDER GLASS.

By J. G. WESTON, Gardener to H. J. KING, Esq., Eastwell Park, Kent.

Cyclamen. If the early batch of seedlings have not been placed into the pots in which they will flower, no time should be lost before doing this work, as the plants will be expected to commence flowering in autumn. Choice flowers are especially valuable late in autumn, and it is doubtful if many plants are capable of giving better returns at that time than may be obtained from well-grown Cyclamen. For the potting mixture use a compost consisting of two parts fibrous loam and one part leaf-soil, adding sand, charcoal, and a little dried cow-manure. Return the newly-potted plants to a frame that will not be fully exposed to the sun's rays. In any case careful attention must be given to providing the plants with proper shade. Arrange them thinly in the frame in order that the air may easily circulate amongst them; with this object in view it is a good plan to stand them on inverted flower-pots. When the plants are well established and growing freely the lights may be drawn entirely off in the evening, the cool night dews being very beneficial to Cyclamen. Replace the lights early on the next morning. Many growers advise throwing the old plants away after flowering, but this is a pity unless the space is required. I usually select the best forms when the plants are in flower and retain these for another season, discarding those only which are inferior. These two-yearold plants always bloom splendidly. These should also be potted up, taking care not to destroy the roots, which on examination will be found to be active, We do not dry off the corms so severely as was the practice formerly, and after they are repotted, the old plants are treated similarly to seedlings. Keep a look-out for thrips and aphides, fumigating regularly to prevent these pests obtaining a footing.

Scutellaria Mocciniana.-For brightening up the stove a few well-grown plants of this species are very useful. It is fairly easy to propagate, young shoots taken off half ripened wood rooting readily. When ready for potting a compost consisting of turfy loam, manure from a spent Mushroombed with charcoal and sand added, will be found suitable. Pinch the tops of the shoots once or twice to ensure a good habit in the plants, and in the spring cut back old plants fairly hard, keeping the roots drier than usual. When the young growths are about an inch long repot the plants, giving them a fairly good shift. The plants will require but little more attention than is necessary to keep them clean.

THE ORCHID HOUSES.

By W. H. WHITE, Orchid Grower to Sir TRevor Lawrence, Bart., Burford, Surrey.

Heating, shading, and ventilation.-Up to the present time the weather has not been favourable generally to the growth of Orchids, especially tropical species, which delight in a great amount of sun-heat. Opportunity should be taken on warm, sunny afternoons to give the plants which occupy the warmest division generous treatment in every respect. Close the house and draw up the blinds as early as may safely be done without causing injury to the plants, so that the atmospheric temperature may rise to between 80° and 90°, or higher if the sun is sufficiently powerful. At the same time thoroughly damp the stages and floors, particularly under and near the hot-water pipes. If the roof glass is stippled, as advised in a former Calendar, the blinds may be raised soon after 3 p.m., but plants that have no such protection from direct sunshine should not be exposed to its influence until 4 p.m. at the earliest, or even half an hour later. In a mixed collection it is difficult to suit all the various species, &c., in this division as regards shading, but if the tender-leaved plants are placed at one end of the house, they may easily be protected from the sun with ordinary garden mats after the blinds are taken up. Such species as the deciduous Calanthes, Dendrobium, Catasetum, Cycnoches, Mormodes, Schomburghia, tereteleaved Vandas, and others of the same habit of growth as Scuticarias, &c., also Lissochilus, Renanthera, &c., Eulophias, Cyrtopodium, thrive in almost an unlimited degree of sun While such genera heat. as Cypripedium, Phalaenopsis, Angræcum, Aërides, Saccolabium, Cirrhopetalum, Bulbophyllum, Phaius, &c., also revel in the tropical warmth, they require much more shade than the others. It is essential

that all of these plants, with the exception of Phalaenopsis, that are now making their growth, should be well supplied with water, particularly Dendrobiums that are making many roots, because if these are allowed to become too dry at the root, the young shoots may get a check that would cause them to finish up prematurely, and then to start a fresh lot of young breaks, which would cause the plants to bloom unsatisfactorily. Immediately after closing and damping the house, it is advisable to afford these Dendrobiums a good syringing with tepid rain water, directing the water well up under the leaves, which will assist to promote healthy growth, and to keep the foliage free from red spider and other insects. Should red spider make its appearance, it must be immediately eradicated. My practice is to take every plant down and well syringe the foliage with Gishurst's compound, mixed according to the directions given by the manufacturers, and adding XL-All liquid insecticide at the rate of one part to 20 of the former mixture. The preparation should be applied at a temperature as warm as it is possible to bear one's hand in. When syringing the foliage hold the plant over a large bath, so that none of the mixture will be wasted, and immediately after each plant has been cleansed, give it a thorough syringing with clean tepid rain water. After closing the house early in the afternoon with sun heat, the atmospheric temperature will rise to the figures mentioned above, and probably higher, but it should gradually fall during the evening, and the last thing at night, if the weather is suitable, a "chink" of air may be admitted through the top ventilators, leaving these open all night, so that by early morning the thermometer will register about 70° of heat.

Pears. Some varieties in these and other local gardens require the fruit to be thinned, but others have been severely thinned by the Pear midge, a pest that cannot be easily exterminated. Trees that are annually attacked, after due precautions have been taken in respect to spraying, &c., should be removed to fresh sites in the autumn. This would tend to lessen the numbers of the pest, especially if the old soil is removed and the trees are replanted in fresh soil. Secure all leading shoots to the wall or trellis where there is still room for extension, and apply manurial waterings to trees growing against hot walls, as the rainfall is always exceptionally light near to the base of a wall.

Peach and Nectarine trees should be assisted with frequent manurial waterings during the next few weeks, the stoning process causing a great strain upon the trees. Good crops appear general this season. Owing to so much cold and sunless weather black fly has proved troublesome on some of our trees, causing us to make frequent applications of quassia extract, followed up next with morning SO

water

a thorough washing with clear that no stain shall be left on the fruit. Continue to regulate and train the young shoots, pinching out any lateral growths. Relieve any pressure there may be on any of the swelling fruits. Expose the fruits of early varieties of the Peach, such as Waterloo, Amsden June, and Alexander, as well as Early Rivers Nectarine (one of the best for outside culture), in such a manner that the rays of the sun will reach them. Do not rely on the frequent showers to keep the trees free from red spider. It being underneath the foliage that this pest makes its appearance, the periodical syringings twice or thrice each week should still be carried out.

Morello Cherries.-The shoots will now require to be trained in the direction they are to take, which may be quickly done by using similar material as advised for the Peach three weeks ago, care being taken that the young shoots are not damaged in the operation. Pinch at the fourth leaf any shoots retained to form spurs, and the points of any leading shoots The that will be cut away later in the season. quassia extract must be persevered with if black fly is still in evidence. Most of the recent rains have come from the south or south-east, so have not benefited much those fruit trees

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which are growing on north aspects, a position usually, and I think rightly, allocated to the Morello Cherry. Manure water, as in the case of the Peach, will assist the trees greatly at this season, and there is no better stimulant than that to be obtained from cow manure or the stable-yard, the former for preference. Unless very hot weather sets in a mulch is unnecessary for trees growing in these cool positions, especially if the surface soil is frequently stirred with the flat hoe, or pricked up with the fork so as to prevent it getting hard and therefore cracking. If it is thought necessary to apply a mulch, it should consist only of light, strawy litter.

PUBLIC PARKS AND GARDENS. By W. W. PETTIGREW, Superintendent of the Parks and Open Spaces in the City of Cardiff. Birds.-The bird-life in a park, whether introduced, semi-domesticated waterfowl, or native wild birds, is a source of pleasure to most visitors. Everyone is more or less susceptible to the charm of the notes given forth by native songsters, and during spring and early summer birds are by no means the least attraction a park may possess. The interest that they evoke is not confined to their songs, for their very appearance, coupled with the fact that they are living, moving creatures, always make them attractive objects. Although there is nothing musical in the note of the duck or swan, yet these birds are a source of pleasure and amusement to the younger visitors.

How to encourage birds.-Few creatures seem to realise when they are in a safe asylum so quickly as do wild birds. In public parks, where all birds are more or less free from molestation, the most timid and wary species, as a rule, throws off its shyness and appears boldly in the open. A good illustration of this is often seen in some of the busiest London parks, where that most shy bird, the woodpigeon, feeds quite unconcernedly within a few yards of visitors. The "dab-chick," or lesser grebe, the coot, and the moorhen-all naturally very shy birds and difficult to approach in their wild haunts have become constant park habitués, the first and last breeding freely in some of the most frequented places where ponds or lakes exist. In this neighbourhood kingfishers, wood-peckers, tufted-ducks, poachards, widgeon, and teal are regular vistants to the parks, and disport themselves so openly that the public has become quite familiar with their appearance. The kingfisher has bred regularly for many years past within a few yards of one of our fish hatcheries. Although it has on several occasions been caught making too free with the young trout, its rarity and beautiful plumage have saved it from well-merited punishment.

Greater interest in habits of birds.-Apart from what may be considered the sentimental regard for wild birds which is common to us all, a large and increasing section of the public takes an interest in them by, among other things, studying their distribution and migratory habits. So popular has ornithology become that few park guides are published now which do not include a list of the various kinds of wild birds observed in the park from time to time. Daily newspapers also appreciate the interest taken in this subject, and are ready to publish any information sent to them regarding the presence of rare, or the arrival of migratory, birds in the locality. It is pleasing to note that this increased scientific interest is not accompanied by a craze for collecting, and few are more persistent in their denunciation of the destruction of rare birds than true ornithologists. A few living specimens in a free state are usually of far more actual interest than a whole collection of stuffed ones. Notwithstanding the fact that most birds are looked upon as very bad gardeners, and are ruthlessly destroyed in many private gardens, they can do but little damage in a park. They should not merely be protected, by prohibiting birds-nesting, netting, and the use of the catapult, but where possible every facility should be given the birds for breeding. In the vicinity of water, reeds may be planted in many out-of-the-way corners where they could easily be left intact when cleaning-up operations take place in the autumn. These could afford protection to many kinds of birds during the winter, and nesting places for them in spring.