distance of about 15 inches from the rows, on the east or most exposed side, they will be found to afford appreciable shelter from both wind and frost, at the same time permitting all the light and sun to reach the plants. As soon as the ground becomes sufficiently dry, and is found to be in good working order (but on no account whilst the ground is wet and sticky), another sowing of Early Giant and Duchess of York, &c., should be made in a good situation, and if a sowing of Duke of Albany or Superlative be made in 48-size (5-inch) pots, and these are placed in a cold house, such as a late vinery or Peach house, the Pea plants will be in good condition for planting out in trenches towards the end of March. If after planting out they are given a little protection from winds, they will well repay the extra labour bestowed. Onions. The sowing of Onion seeds in heat early in the year is becoming the general rule throughout the country, not only as was previously the case for the culture of bulbs for exhibition purposes, but also for bulbs for home consumption. Much finer bulbs can be thus grown, and the crops are cleaner, for it is generally admitted, where this practice is adopted, that the Onion maggot is conspicuous by its absence. Seed should now be sown in thumb pots, or in boxes, and these may be placed in an atmospheric temperature of 55°. Ailsa Craig and Magnum Bonum are useful varieties for this sowing, although there are several other favourite and up-to-date varieties that are also well adapted for the same purpose. As soon as germination has taken place, let the plants be placed as near to the glass as possible, keeping them there throughout the period they have to remain indoors, gradually hardening them off as growth advances in order to have them fit for transplanting in the open garden early in April. Lettuces.--Small sowings of the early varieties of Cabbage Lettuce, such as Earliest of All, Commodore Nutt, and Tom Thumb, and of the approved sorts of Cos, should be made frequently in a gentle heat, and if the seedlings are pricked out as soon as they are large enough to handle into good, rich soil, the desired result of a quick return will be likely to follow. Potatos. Keep up a good supply of tubers which have started into growth, and are therefore ready for planting, in order that they may be planted where those that are being lifted for present supplies have grown, and for planting in additional frames or in pots. If "started" tubers are used for planting, not only is much time saved, but a more even crop will be the result. 1 THE FLOWER GARDEN. By A. C. BARTLETT, Gardener to Mrs. FORD, Pencarrow, Cornwall. Ground-work. If no spring-bedding is done, all the flower beds should now be thoroughly dug. Have plenty of planks at hand for wheeling upon from the walks to the beds. The nature of the manurial dressing will depend on the type of plant allotted to each bed. While in mixed beds it must be decided by the type which will predominate, it will be found best, as a rule, to richly dress the central portion of the bed and gradually diminish the quantity towards the outside. Such strong feeders as Lobelia cardinalis, Dahlias, and those plants in which luxuriance of growth is desired, such as Ricinus, Eucalyp tus, and Cannas, should be afforded a good supply of well-rotted farmyard manure. And at the other extreme, with such plants as Pelargo..ium, Heliotrope, and Begonia semperflorens, where abundance of flower is the chief sideration, a dressing composed chiefly of leafmould will be found best. For most bedding plants a good sprinkling of bone-meal worked into the top-spit of soil will be found beneficial, but I am not in favour of applying artificial manures until the plants have established themselves. A watchful eye must be kept on the men while the digging is in progress, as at times there is a tendency to hurry over this work, and the points and corners of the beds suffer. It is difficult to persuade them that the flower garden should be as deeply worked as the kitchen garden. con Carnations.-Beds should now be prepared for receiving the plants which are wintering in frames The outdoor plants should also receive attention, removing decaying leaves and weeding the beds, also stirring the surface-soil. A dusting of soot around the plants will promote good colour in the leaves and destroy slugs. Hollyhocks.--In most gardens the ravages of the Hollyhock disease prevent any attempt being made to grow this noble plant as a perennial, but if seed is sown now in moderate heat, plants can be raised which will flower this year and escape disfigurement to any great extent. Those plants which were raised last year and are wintering in light, airy houses should for a time be still kept on the dry side and frequently examined for any signs of disease. As a preventive measure they should be frequently dusted with flowers of sulphur. Lily of the Valley.-The beds should receive a top-dressing of well-decayed manure; this should be broken up rather small, or it will impede the growths when the plants commence to come through the surface. From the present time until growth commences out of doors, home-grown crowns will force just as well as imported crowns, and have the advantage of being more fragrant. If it is desired to utilise the home stock, a breadth should be lifted and sorted, retaining the crowns of flowering size for forcing, and with the remainder either make a fresh bed or plant them in such places as the wild garden or at the edge of a wood. Montbretias.-The older varieties quickly become congested, and it is necessary to lift the corms, at least, every other year. After enriching the soil, replant the largest corms [in a fresh position if another favourable one is available]. PUBLIC PARKS AND GARDENS. By W. W. PETTIGREW, Superintendent of the Parks and Open Spaces in the City of Cardiff. Control of Games (continued).-When games are under the direct control of the Parks Department it is necessary to have definite play-pitches marked out and distinctively numbered in each recreation ground where play is allowed. In the case of football and hockey the side boundaries of these pitches need not be more than a few yards apart, but with cricket and baseball, for the sake of safety, the distance from pitch to pitch should never be less than 70 yards. Notice from Clubs. It is also essential for the Department to know for a good while beforehand of all the matches for which the grounds are likely to be required from time to time. To secure this information and prevent any misunderstanding we find it useful before the beginning of each game season to have notices posted up in our recreation grounds inviting club secretaries to send us as early as possible a list of their season's fixtures, with an intimation as to which park they would prefer to play in. As these fixture-lists come to hand the dates required by the various clubs, with the different grounds preferred, are entered upon a sheet of double foolscap paper specially drawn up for the purpose, A perusal of this document will indicate in a few moments the number of pitches required in each park on any given date. Permits are issued to the different secretaries once a month for the use of a pitch for each match (if possible) shown on their fixture card. Each permit has the name of the park where the match is to be played distinctly printed on it, with the date, number of pitch to be used, and the time at which the game starts. Before any play is allowed or apparatus erected, this permit has to be handed over to the man in charge of the ground. To prevent mistakes, this official, each day matches are to be played, receives from the office a form upon which are shown the names of all the clubs playing, the number of the pitches allocated to each, and the time at which play begins. This form is returned to the office with what remarks the keeper may think necessary to insert about any game played, or the conduct of players. If the park keeper is of opinion that the ground is too wet for play, he puts up notices to that effect at all the entrances to the ground in question, and sees that play of no description takes place till it is dry again. Changes in Programme.-As it would be a matter of impossibility to have fixtures completed at the beginning of the season, it is quite out of the question to allocate pitches all at one time. Clubs have to alter and add to their engagements as the season goes on, as they sometimes find they have to abandon one match and take on another. They keep us informed of the changes, and we act as best we can to meet their requirements, hence our practice of sending out permits at the beginning of each month instead of only at the beginning of the season. It very often happens that there are more applications for permits for a certain date than there are pitches to dispose of, and it then becomes necessary to discriminate between the various applicants. To avoid friction we always endeavour to distribute permits as evenly as possible among all clubs, and in such a way that no club has a pitch allocated to it oftener than another. Casual players.—It must not be concluded from the foregoing statement that we only allow organised games to be played in our parks. So long as goal posts are not used, and the ground is in a fit condition, and not about to be taken up for a match, footballers and hockey players can practice as much as they please. With cricket, however, it is different. Instead of allowing indiscriminate play the Parks Department supplies and erects, free of charge, a number of full-sized practice nets in the quietest parts of the grounds, and restricts all cricket practice to these nets. Each division within a net is numbered in the same way as ordinary pitches, and clubs have one of these allocated to them for so many nights a week for practice. Children using soft balls can amuse themselves as much as they please away from the practice ground, but, of course, are not allowed to play over the match pitches, nor during the time a match is in progress. As might have been expected, when we first took full control of the games played in our recreation grounds we had many difficulties to contend against. These have, however, been overcome, and all local "sportsmen " now recognise that it was an exceedingly good thing for sport when the Parks Committee took the step it did. So as to mislead no one who may be desirous of following this example, I may mention, just to show some of the work it entails, that during the 12 months ending September 30, 1906, we issued no fewer than 1,878 game permits, besides a great number of letters and circulars in connection with the playing of games. THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. By J. MAYNE, Gardener to the Hon. MARK ROLLE, Bicton, East Devon. Peach and Nectarine trees.-The pruning, cleansing, and re-training of these must now be undertaken, and the opportunity is thus presented of dispensing with any aged or exhausted branch, so that clean young growths from near the base of the tree may have the necessary space for their development, without which it is impossible to maintain a tree with good fruitbearing wood. The cutting out of shoots in autumn that have borne fruits is good practice, and where this was done there will remain little pruning to do now, except in such cases as men. tioned above. Cleansing the trees.-Scale insects are often troublesome on out-of-door Peaches; these are best removed with an ordinary pot label, especially the large brown scales which usually infest the old wood. In bad cases it is best to go over the whole tree with the label, dislodg ing as many scales as possible previous to washing. For washing the trees dissolve 12 ounces of soft soap in 4 gallons of warm water, and add a handful of flowers of sulphur and half a pint of quassia extract, thoroughly mixing all together. Keep the mixture constantly stirred during its application to the trees. A sponge, or a painter's soft brush, are useful for rubbing the wood, drawing it towards the points of the young growths, so as to avoid bruising or even displacing the blossom-buds. Should any shoots get broken, prune them back to a wood-bud, which is easily discernible by being more pointed than a blossom-bud. Let the walls be put into good condition by "pointing" the brick or stone-work, and afterwards applying a coat of limewash or colouring. It may not be necessary to do this every year, unless the trees suffered badly from aphis or red spider. Training. Spread out the main branches so as to induce a proportionate distribution of the sap over the whole tree. Between these, the bearing-wood should be laid in at from 4 inches to 6 inches asunder. It must be borne in mind that a young shoot will have to be trained in from the base of each present shoot for fruiting in 1908. Whether shreds and nails are used, or the shoots are to be tied to wires, take care to allow ample space in shred or tie for the development of each shoot. The borders. Having trained the trees, rake over the surface of the border to remove rubbish, tc., and if a top-dressing is considered to be ecessary, prick up with the garden fork three aches of the old soil, wheeling this away and eplenishing with good loam, adding one barowful of crushed mortar rubble and one of ood ashes respectively to every dozen barrowpads of loam. If no top-dressing is to be aplied, then scatter a thin layer of wood-ashes nd bone meal over the surface, pointing this 1 with the fork as soon as the soil is dry nough for it to be done. Apricots. Some gardeners postpone the prun. ng and training of Apricot trees until the preent time, but the sooner it is finished now the etter. as the Apricot is the first fruit tree to pen its blossoms. "Spurs" should be pruned eyond where they were stopped in summer; hort, stubby growths and extension shoots may e left as they are when extension shoots have ot made more than 18 inches of growth in the ast year. If they have made more than this, en shorten them one-third their length. Apri. ot trees being so liable to "gumming," it is ery important to see that neither wire nor nail moss, which should be cut up roughly. Keep the plant about on a level with the rim of the pot, with the base of the bulbs just touching the moss. so that the young growths will be free from anything that may cause them to decay. M. candida and its variety grandiflora-being at rest-should not be repotted until growth recommences. The same remarks apply also to the white-lipped M. cuneata, whose flower spikes are now well advanced. The varieties with creeping rhizomes as M. spectabilis, M. Moreliana, M. Lubbersiana, &c., may be grown in shallow, but rather wide, pans as they extend rapidly in every direction. Old plants which may have lost a number of old pseudo-bulbs, and have become ragged in appearance may be divided, all useless pseudo-bulbs cut away and the growing pieces made up anew. Those pieces with but few roots must be fastened down to the compost, as they will not succeed if they are in the least degree loose. All these Miltonias grow well in a cool and shady part of the intermediate house. The rare M. Schroderiana grows well in the same degree of heat, but requires rather more light. Afford just sufficient water to these FIG. 31.-EUCHARIS GRANDIFLORA AS CULTIVATED BY MR. J. G. WESTON IN VISCOUNT DUNCANNON'S GARDEN, BESSBOROUGH, IRELAND. ses unduly on the branches. Syringe the s with quassia extract, and give the same ntion to the borders as recommended above Peach borders. The borders containing er Apricot or Peach roots should extend e 4 feet from the base of the wall. THE ORCHID HOUSES. . H. WHITE, Orchid Grower to Sir TREVOR LAWRENCE, Bart., Burford, Surrey. Itonias.-The Brazilian section should now be ined to see if any of the plants require fresh rial or additional root-room, this being the er season to repot them. All the stronging varieties as M. Clowesii, M. Russelliana, Lamarckiana, M. Binotii, M. Veitchii, M. elli, &c., are best grown in pots which should well drained with Fern rhizomes. Let the post consist of American root-fibre (Osmunda is), pulling this apart into lumps which may laced firmly among the roots of the plant, ing the surface with a thin layer of sphagnum repotted plants to keep the surface moss in a growing condition, but when they commence to flower they should be kept more than ordinarily moist. See that the young roots now pushing from the newest growths are not injured by insect pests. Lalias.-The majority of the American Lælias, as L. autumnalis, L. albida, L. Gouldiana, and those of the L. anceps type, will have finished blooming for the season, and before the leading bulbs commence to make new roots the plants may, if necessary, be repotted. It is advisable to avoid all needless disturbance of the old roots, as the plants often fail to bloom satisfactorily the next season. When repotting old-established plants it is not essential to retain more than two or three pseudobulbs to one piece which can easily be potted separately or re-made up into compact specimens. For these plants shallow pans or pots may be employed, good drainage is essential, and for a compost two thirds of the best fibrous peat and one third sphagnum-moss may be used, adding a moderate quantity of small crocks and coarse silver sand. Make the compost about the roots moderately firm, and insert a few large crocks here and there so that water may pass rapidly away. Very little water is needed at the root until the plants start to grow afresh, when the amount of moisture, heat, and ventilation may be gradually increased. L. Gouldiana, L. anceps and its varieties.-It is advisable to keep these plants in the coolest part ot the Cattleya house, or if a Mexican house is set apart for them, the atmospheric temperature should be about 55°. Everything that is possible should be done to prevent the new growths from starting prematurely; the later they commence to grow the better the chances are of their blooming satisfactorily. The plants of L. autumnalis and L. albida should be suspended in the driest part of the Odontoglossum house. Coleus.-A batch of cuttings may now be inserted, either for providing plants to be used in a small state, or for growing into specin.cn plants. Acer Negundo variegatum.-Tall specimens of this ornamental-leaved plant, if forced early into growth, give a pleasing effect when placed amongst Palms and similar plants. The Maples need to be removed from the plant house in the summer time, but they can then be replaced by ornamental-leaved Abutilons, such as A. Sellowianum variegatum, &c. In large and lofty structures, where small plants appear insignificant, a pleasing effect can be made with plants of Begonia Rex, arranged in the form of mounds, carpeted with Selaginella, Tradescantia, or any other suitable plant. Eucharis grandiflora (amazonica).-The present is a good time to overhaul these plants, thoroughly cleansing them of insect pests by sponging or spraying. Repot any that require it, but bear in mind that the Eucharis generally flowers best when the pot or pan is filled with roots. Healthy plants growing in large pots may be afforded a rich top-dressing, potting only those required for making larger specimens, or that are at present in small pots and require repotting. If any of the plants are in an unhealthy concition, the bulbs should be thoroughly washed out, leaving none of the old, sour soil on the roots. This done, the bulbs should be sorted into sizes, the larger, or flowering bulbs to be potted in large pots of a size considered most suitable in the particular garden, and putting sufficient bulbs in each pot to make a wellfurnished specimen. The smaller bulbs should be placed several together in 4 or 6-inch pots, to be afterwards potted on. The soil for Eucharis should consist mainly of sweet, fibrous loam, with all the fine soil shaken from it, but with additions of sand and charcoal. After potting, they should be put into a damp atmosphere of stove temperature, and if a little bottom heat can be afforded them so much the better. As the roots will require very little water at first, great care should be taken that too much is not given, as over-watering is probably the main reason why so many Eucharis plants get into an unhealthy condition. For established plants weak soot water is a capital stimulant. I have never practised resting Eucharis in cool conditions, as is sometimes recommended, but have always kept the plants in a growing condition. I enclose a photograph of some plants (see fig. 31), which have been grown for nearly eight years in the same stove. Shading from hot sunshine is very necessary, and I have seen Eucharis doing very well under the shade of Palms, Stephanotis, &c. The finest Eucharis I ever saw were grown by a market-grower. The roof glass was shaded with a thick coat of whitewash, the plants were never rested, but several long houses were filled solely with Eucharis in the most robust health, and blooming abundantly. Hymenocallis.-These plants, often seen in gardens under the name Pancratium, succeed under similar conditions, with regard to heat and moisture, though requiring perhaps more liberal treatment than Eucharis. H. ovata, syn. Pancratium fragrans is the most popular variety; and H. macrostephana, not met with so often, is a beautiful flower that should be included in a collection of these plants. EDITORIAL NOTICE. ADVERTISEMENTS should be sent to the PUB. LISHER, 41, Wellington Street, Covent Garden, W.C. Letters for Publication, as well as specimens and plants for naming, should be addressed to the EDITOR, 41, Wellington Street, Covent Garden, London. Communications should be WRITTEN ON ONE SIDE ONLY OF THE PAPER, Sent as early in the week as possible, and duly signed by the writer. If desired, the signature will not be printed, but kept as a guarantee of good faith. Special Notice to Correspondents.-The Editor does not undertake to pay for any contributions or illustrations, or to return unused communications or illustrations, unless by special arrangement. The Editor does not hold himself responsible for any opinions expressed by his correspondents. Illustrations.- The Editor will be glad to receive and to select photographs or drawings, suitable for reproduction, of gardens, or of remarkable plants, flowers, trees, &c., but he cannot be responsible for loss or injury. Newspapers.-Correspondents sending newspapers should be careful to mark the paragraphs they wish the Editor to see. Local News.-Correspondents will greatly oblige by sending to the Editor early intelligence of local events likely to be of interest to our readers, or of any matters which it is desirable to bring under the notice of horticulturists. pute, or that the widows of such men, should not be placed by the committee at the first opportunity on the pension list (subject to the approval of the members), but without the formality of obtaining the suffrages of the voters. All the cases are deserving, but those who have done their best when they had the opportunity to help their fellows should be the first to receive aid when they stand in need of help themselves. Of late years the committee has done something in this direction by crediting such candidates with a number of votes in proportion to the amount subscribed or the special necessities of the case. This is a step in the right direction, but anyone who looks down the list and refers to our report of the proceedings will see at once that there are certain candidates whose claims are so sub APPOINTMENTS FOR THE ENSUING WEEK. stantial that (assuming that other circum AVERAGE MEAN TEMPERATURE for the ensuing week, deduced from observations during the last Fifty Years at Greenwich-39-4°. ACTUAL TEMPERATURES:- Gardeners' Chronicle Office, 41, Wellington_Street, PROVINCES.-Wednesday, January 30 (6 P.M.): Max. 40° SALES FOR THE ENSUING WEEK, Hardy Border Plants and Bulbs, Roses, Azaleas, Fruit TUESDAY Clearance Sale of 14 Greenhouses, Piping, Brickwork, Hardy Border Plants and Bulbs, Liliums, Azaleas, Roses, Plants, Lilies, &c., at Stevens' Rooms, 38, King FRIDAY Imported and Established Orchids in variety, Orchids in flower and bud, at 67 & 68, Cheapside, E.C., by Protheroe & Morris, at 12.45. The Gardeners' Royal Benevolent. The annual meeting of this excellent society was held at "Simpson's "on January 24, after our issue had gone to press, so that we were unable to chronicle the results of the election. We are now able to mention the names of the successful candidates, and to assert once more that the Society is excellently managed, and, so far as its means allow, doing its work very efficiently. It might do more were it better supported, especially by the gardeners themselves. We trust that in future many more owners of gardens will follow the example of Lady Ilchester and of Earl Beauchamp by throwing open their gardens once a year on payment of a small sum, for the benefit of the institution. The society has, within our recollection, not only made great progress, but it has loosened the shackles which encumbered it and prevented it from accomplishing all the good it was intended to do. Even now it seems anomalous that men who have subscribed for several years, whose claims are beyond dis stances permitted) they should have been placed on the list at once without having to trouble their friends, or still more important, without having to wait years before securing the benefits of the institution. The Victorian Era Fund and the Samaritan Fund render great assistance in these circumstances, and we trust most earnestly that these excellent funds will be largely increased in the future. It is hardly becoming to report at full length the proceedings at the "friendly supper" which follows the work of the day, because it is understood that this is a private rather than a business meeting, and no one who knows the circumstances will begrudge the members their recreation after the labours of the day. We may, however, comment without impropriety on some remarks made by the chairman as to the necessity of raising the position of some gardeners by a better education, and by a higher general rate of remuneration. It is to be hoped that there are not many "gardeners" to whom the disparaging remarks made by the chairman can apply, but there are some few, no doubt, and these are the very men whose names we should not expect to find among the subscribers to the Gardeners' Benevolent, or to the Orphan Fund. * The British Gardeners' Association, which now numbers 1,000 members, was formed with a view of affording some guarantee of character and competence, and thus of eliminating the incompetent and the undesirable who practise under the name of gardener. It is endeavouring to raise the social standard of the members of the craft by co-operation and other legitimate means. The success or the inefficiency of the charitable institutions are, of course, inseparably bound up with the financial position of the gardeners. As they become raised in the social scale, and as their remuneration is increased in proportion to their responsibilities, so shall we hear less of questionable commissions, and more and more of that self-respect which will cause the gardeners to depend more and more on their own exertions and less and less on the benevolence of outsiders. Larger support will be given to the gardening charities, and more and more power for good will accrue to the British Gardeners' Association. We may here add that the 68th Annual Dinner of the Gardeners' Benevolent will be held on Wednesday, June 26, at the Whitehall Rooms, Hotel Metropole, when the Hon. Walter Rothschild, M.P., will preside. OUR SUPPLEMENTARY ILLUSTRATION.-The name under Mr. SMITH'S engraving of Rudbeckia Heliopsis was printed as Rudbeckia Heliopsidis under the impression that that was the correct name of the plant figured. We learn, however, that this is erroneous, and that the proper spelling is Rudbeckia Heliopsis x. It is unfortunate that two names so closely similar should have been given to two different plants. The following communication from Mr. GUMBLETON, to whom we were indebted for the specimen, gives the history of the plant and shows it to be a hybrid between the old Rudbeckia or Echinacea purpurea and Helianthus multiflorus. If this be really the origin of the plant the case is one of great interest :— "I received a plant of this hardy Composite (the Red Sunflower) towards the end of 1905 from its raisers in Germany, Herren KOHLER & RUDELL, of Windischleuba, Altenburg, who assert that it is a hybrid resulting from the cross fertilisation of Helianthus multiflorus with Echinacea purpurea, and they have named it the Red Sunflower. It bloomed freely in my garden during last summer, producing about 30 flowers. I was somewhat disappointed with the colour, which could hardly be called red, but the large number of flowers, most of which opened simultaneously, made it a very showy object in the garden. I had previously tried to raise it from seed, but could not get them to germinate." W. E. Gumbleton. NATIONAL CHRYSANTHEMUM SOCIETY.-The secretary informs us that the annual general meeting of the members of this society will take place at CARR's Restaurant, 264, Strand, W.C., on Monday next, February 4, at 7 o'clock in the evening. CHARLES E. SHEA, Esq., president, will preside. Agenda: To receive the executive committee's annual report and accounts for the year 1906; to elect officers for the year ensuing; to consider, and, if approved, to adopt, the new rules of the society as per draft circulated among the members; to transact such other business as per tains to the annual general meeting. GEO. MONRO, LTD., CONCERT.-The committee informs us that the 11th annual concert will be held on Thursday, February 21, at the Queen's Hall, Langham Place. GEO. MONRO, Esq., will preside. From the cash statement of the results of the concert held on February 22, 1906, we learn that the following donations were given to charities: Ten guineas were given to the Gardeners' Royal Benevolent Institution, six guineas each to the Wholesale Fruit and Potato Trades Benevolent Society, and to the Surgical Aid Society, five guineas to the Charing Cross Hospital, three guineas each to the Royal Ophthalmic Hospital, and to the Covent Garden Lifeboat, and two guineas to the GEO. MONRO, Ltd., Pension Fund, and the GEO. MONRO, Ltd., Outing Fund, total £38 17s. The total gross receipts from the concert were about £200, and the expenses £160. PRESENTATION TO A GARDENER.-Mr. W. MCCOLL, bailiff and head gardener to Sir MARK COLLET, Bart, was presented with a clock by his fellow employees, at St. Clere, on Wednesday, January 16, on his leaving St. Clere to enter the services of Mr. J. CLIFFORD CORY, at Llantarnam Abbey, Monmouthshire. LINNEAN SOCIETY.-The next general meeting will be held at 8 p.m. on Thursday, February 7, 1907. Papers:-1, Dr. OTTO STAPF, F.L.S., "New Plants from Malaya"; 2, Mr. F. CHAPMAN, A.L.S., "Tertiary Foraminifera of Victoria -The Balcombian Deposits of Fort Philip." Exhibitions.-1, Messrs. H. & J. GROVES, F.L.S.. Specimens of Chara ornithopoda; 2, Rev. JOHN GERARD, S.J., F.L.S., Some Observations of Climbing Plants (with lantern slides); 3, Mr. W. ROSE SMITH, Herbarium formed by A. Ruperti, 1698-1700. |