THE ORCHID HOUSES.

P.

V. H. WHITE, Orchid Grower to Sir TREVOR LAWRENCE Bart., Burford, Surrey, 'latyclinis.-This genus consists of a small nber of species, but all are worth growing, well bloomed plants are always much ired, especially such an example of nacea, as is iliustrated in the Gardeners' onicle, November 9, 1905. Experience has ved that the cool atmosphere of the interliate house is most suitable for all of the cies the whole year round, and when susded well up to the roof glass in a moderately dy position, and if properly attended to as irds watering, &c., the plants grow well and duce flowers in profusion. P. glumacea and variety valida are now producing numerous 7ering racemes, and the plants should be rally supplied with water at the root. P. ata, whose thread-like racemes are very ilar to those of P. filiformis, has just gone of bloom, and the plant should be kept ly moist at the root until the small growths e attained to their full size. Although P. ormis and P. Cobbiana are at rest, they uld be kept moist by spraying the foliage rhead, which at the same time will check increase of red-spider. Any of these plants be re-potted immediately growth has begun, as soon as possible after flowering. I find low pans are the best receptacles to grow n in, and they will thrive luxuriantly in a compost consisting of good fibrous peat, soil, and sphagnum-moss, intermixed with oderate quantity of small crocks. ymbidiums. Such Cymbidiums as C. Lowim, C.-L. concolor, C. Lowio-eburneum, and reverse cross C. eburneo-Lowianum, which

sending up flower spikes, should have ndant supplies of water at the root until the ers are all open, after which time the comshould be kept just moist. Any plants of C. stersii, C. elegans, C. affine, C. Tracyanum, Winnianum, C. Wilsonii, C. giganteum, C. röderæ, C. chloranthum, C. madidum, &c., require re-potting, should be attended to at e. Being strong rooting plants they require beral amount of pot room with good drain

Afford them a mixture of two-thirds loam, third peat, with the addition of small crocks coarse silver sand. When re-potting, leave Dod space below the rim of the pot to hold er, of which these plants require a plentiful ply when well rooted, and all through the ving season. After re-potting water should afforded in small quantities, gradually insing the supply as each plant becomes reblished. All of these Cymbidiums grow well n elevated upon pots or suitable stands in a t position in the intermediate house, and if r immediate surroundings are kept always oughly moist, insect pests rarely infest n, with the exception sometimes of a little vn scale, which is easily eradicated with the -h and sponge.

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

A. C. BARTLETT, Gardener to Mrs. FORD, Pencarrow, Cornwall.

dding Pelargoniums.-Cuttings rooted last mn should now be potted singly or be ted in boxes. Pots should be used for prece, and these must be clean, or at planting the roots will cling to the pots. Any water may be necessary should be given on the previous to potting. If reasonable care is cised when watering, for a few weeks after potting is done, no drainage material will ecessary in the pots save a few lumps of nor some half-decayed leaf-mould. Place plants in a warm house for a few weeks, do not afford water until it is really needed; sional dampings with the syringe on bright will prevent flagging.

andard Fuchsias, Heliotropes, &c., should be trimmed, pruned, and placed in a warm e. As they were potted when taken up from Hower beds, no re-potting will be necessary , but it will be wise to see that in moving, soil has not become loosened. Frequent ngings will help the plants to "break" y and evenly, and as growth advances due ition should be paid to pinching the shoots, as to ensure the development of wellnced plants. In these gardens, where often re autumnal gales prevail, I find old plants atisfactory, as the wind often removes large

branches. I insert cuttings towards the end of July, and as soon as they are rooted pot them singly into 3-inch pots, and keep them steadily growing in an intermediate house throughout the winter, pinching the shoots as is necessary. These plants are now in 32-size pots, and will shortly be transferred to 9 and 10-inch pots, when they will be treated similarly to old standards. Such plants withstand rough winds better, and are rather less trouble than old plants which have been used for the purpose previously.

Calceolarias and Violas.-The bedding varieties of these plants in frames, and which were recently pinched, should now be transplanted, using a soil containing a goodly proportion of leaf-soil to ensure their lifting with a good bail of roots when they are finally placed in their flowering quarters. Choose mild weather for the transplanting, keep the frames shut for a few days and cover them with mats at night. After they have recovered, ventilate the frames freely, whenever possible, to promote sturdy growth.

THE KITCHEN GARDEN.

By WILLIAM HONESS, Gardener to C. COMBE, Esq.,
Cobham Park, Surrey.

French Beans.-Further sowings of seeds in pots should still be made, but as the outside temperature is becoming higher, these may now be placed in a structure where there is less fire-heat employed. Closer attention will now be necessary to keep the plants free from the attack of thrip and red spider. Sowings might also be made now in boxes for raising plants to plant out in a cool house, or to succeed a crop of Potatos in a frame. Syon House Prolific and Fulmer's Forcing are two good varieties for these purposes.

Herbs. In cases where it is considered necessary to replant the beds of the perennial herbs such as Sage, Thyme, Tarragon, Chives, &c., the work should now be undertaken, taking this opportunity to divide the roots. Seeds of such herbs as Basil, Marjoram, &c., which are generally grown, and succeed very well as annuals, should now be sown.

Cabbages.-The Cabbage bed should be thoroughly examined, removing all decayed leaves which, after the severe trial from which they are just emerging, will in many cases be considerable. If a moderate dressing of nitrate of soda can be applied at the present time and well worked into the ground by the use of the hoe, a great improvement in the plants will soon be discernible.

Cropping. Although the end of February is now near, the weather, at the time of writing, renders the sowing of seeds out of doors impossible, for even on very light soils the ground is much too wet to allow of its being worked. If sowings of Peas and Beans were made in pots and boxes as previously advised, they will in due course prevent a blank that must otherwise have occurred. At the same time, if a piece of ground in a favoured position, or a sheltered border can be found in anything like a favourable condition for working, seeds of either cr both of the above-mentioned crops, also of Round Spinach, should be sown.

Tomatos.-Seeds for raising plants to be grown out of doors should now be sown, and another sowing may be made in about ten days' time. As soon as the seedlings are large enough they should be potted into 60-sized (3-inch) pots. The plants will need to be in the best condition for planting at the foot of walls by the end of May, and in the open in the early part of June. By that time they should be thoroughly estab lished in 6-inch pots, and be perfectly "hardened." Last year was an exceptionally good season for Tomatos, and proved that several varieties noted for their prolific qualities indoors, such as Sunrise, &c., were equally free in cropping under outdoor culture.

Tillage. If not entirely, the greater part of the winter's digging, wheeling, &c., will now be finished, at any rate, in the most prominent parts of the garden, and as the work proceeds, all edgings, whether they consist of tiles. box, &c., should now be given attention. Faulty places and bare patches should be renovated. and all walks in the vicinity that require fresa gravel, or other material to make them good, should be put into good condition; thus giving a fresh appearance to the garden, and a final finish to the rougher work of winter.

THE HARDY FRUIT GARDEN.

By J. MAYNE, Gardener to the Hon. MARK Rolle, Bicton, East Devon.

Plums.-The pruning and the training of these trees should be completed forthwith. Some varieties of Plums succeed remarkably well grown as standard trees, notably the old Victoria, Jefferson, Pond's Seedling, the Czar, and Denniston's Superb. Bush or pyramid-trained trees also crop freely in favourable seasons providing the centres of the trees are sufficiently pruned to admit air and light and the roots are kept within proper bounds. The true Damson is not much grown in this county, but it is a desirable fruit. These trees are best grown as standards in a not over-rich soil, as they make growth at the expense of the fruit buds unless somewhat starved. Trees that fruit well should be afforded an annual top-dressing of some manurial material after the prunings have been removed, and few things are better for the purpose than a dressing of wood-ashes, old plaster, or mortar rubble. Barren trees that are growing excessively should have their roots pruned or be transplanted, and then be given a dressing of old lime rubbish, working it well amongst the roots.

to

Apples.-Bush and pyramid Apple trees are the most profitable. Encourage the roots grow near the surface of the soil by applying an annual top-dressing of good loam or a mulching of manure, after the pruning is completed, which it should be by the end of this month. Good fruits are produced by horizontally-trained trees, and these are suitable for planting along the margins of walks, but the hard pruning required to keep them within limits is not favourable for an annual average crop of fruits. Bush trees should be allotted a quarter to themselves, and no plants requiring deep cultivation should be allowed near the roots of the trees. Use, however, may be made of the land between the rows when the trees are quite young. by planting shallow rooting subjects, such as Violets, Lettuces, or even Gooseberries and Currants..

Bee-bread is another name for pollen. Bee-escape is an appliance by means of which bees may be got out of supers, or even buildings and trees.

Bee-space is a passage wide enough for a bee to pass and one calculated to prevent them building brace combs.

Brood is a term applied to the larvæ of bees, and not, as some imagine, bees after they have emerged from the cells.

Candied honey is honey which has granulated, and may be liquefied by applying heat. Capped brood consists of the larvæ covered with a thin covering of wax and pollen.

Cappings are the thin coverings of wax which mark the completion of honey stored, so far as each cell is concerned. When they are cut off before extracting honey, they should be stored in a tin vessel with a covering, and then melted later.

Clustering. When bees swarm or leave a hive they usually settle in some convenient (at least, so far as the bees are concerned) place, and resemble a bunch of Grapes, and they are then said "to cluster."

Comb foundations are thin sheets of wax of vary. ing thickness, according to the purpose for which they are needed, and impressed by machinery with the bases of cells.

Wax is a secretion of the bees, and is formed by them into small scales, which are passed out by them through the eight wax pockets, situ ated on the under side of the abdomen.

Wedding flight is the flight of a young virgin queen for the purpose of becoming fertilised by the drone. It takes place only once in her lifetime.

EDITORIAL NOTICE.

ADVERTISEMENTS should be sent to the PUB. LISHER, 41, Wellington Street, Covent Garden, W.C.

Letters for Publication, as well as specimens and plants for naming, should be addressed to the EDITOR, 41, Wellington Street, Covent Garden, London. Communications should be WRITTEN ON ONE SIDE ONLY OF THE PAPER, sent as early in the week as possible, and duly signed by the writer. If desired, the signature will not be printed, "but kept as a guarantee of good faith. Special Notice to Correspondents.-The Editor does not undertake to pay for any contributions or illustrations, or to return unused communications or illustrations, unless by special arrangement. The Editor does not hold himself responsible for any opinions expressed by his correspondents. Illustrations. - The Editor will be glad to receive and to select

photographs or drawings, suitable for reproduction, of gardens, or of remarkable plants, flowers, trees, &c., but he cannot be responsible for loss or injury. Newspapers.-Correspondents sending newspapers should be careful to mark the paragraphs they wish the Editor to see. Local News. Correspondents will greatly oblige by sending to the Editor early intelligence of local events likely to be of interest to our readers, or of any matters which it is desirable to bring under the notice of horticulturists.

MONDAY

Roses, Azaleas, Hardy Plants and Bulbs, at 67 & 68, Cheapside, E.C., by Protheroe & Morris, at 12. WEDNESDAY—

Liliums, Perennials, Border Plants, Hardy Bulbs.
Azaleas, Rhododendrons, Palms, &c., at 12.
4,000 Roses, also Fruit Trees, at 1.30 and 4, at 67 & 68,
Cheapside, E.C., by Protheroe & Morris.

Plants, Roses, and Lilies, at Steven's Rooms, King
Street, Covent Garden, W.C., at 12.30 p.m.
FRIDAY-

Hardy Border Plants, Liliums and other Bulbs, Roses, Azaleas, &c., at 67 & 68, Cheapside, E.C., by Protheroe & Morris, at 12.

In the celebrated experiments which have been carried out at Rothamsted, Herts., Wheat has been grown in one portion of a field for 62 years in succession on the same land, without an ounce of manure. In another field Barley has been similarly grown for 54 years in succession, and in yet another field Mangel Wurzul has been grown for 32 years without manure. In some experiments on permanent grass-land, two plots of the land have been left without manure of any kind for 50 years, and yet in the average of seasons they yield 1 ton of Hay per acre. Facts like these, which might be greatly multiplied, serve to show the vast resources of ordinary fertile soils in plant-food, and the inexhaustible supply of gaseous food from the atmosphere aided by the sunlight acting on the green matter of the plant.

In recent years the word exhaustion, when used in connection with the soil, has been given an entirely different meaning to that originally given to it. Now, exhausted soils are understood to be those which no longer produce crops at a profit. The object of manuring is to recoup the soil for waste of all sorts-waste from excessive cropping; waste from drainage due to excessive waterings, either from heavy rainfalls or artificial supplies; waste from the incessant chemical and other changes going on in the soil. To increase the store of plant-food in naturally poor soils, and at the same time to compel them to yield profitable crops, is the problem set before every practical gardener. Fertile soils are rich in the elements of plant-food, and these foods are, through the agency and work of the soil germs or bacteria, being constantly changed and adapted for the use of growing crops.

There is no doubt that many soils can be made to produce crops up to a certain standard, year after year, without the aid of manuring. This is demonstrated in the experiments at Rothamsted, to which we have already referred. This standard of production, however, will rarely meet the requirements of the modern gardener. He must compel the land to do more than it is naturally able to do. To accomplish this he must add to the resources of his soil by applying

manure.

Essential conditions for a plentiful supply of vigorous germ-life are a good store of humus or vegetable matter, a well aerated and a well drained and deeply cultivated soil. One of the important objects sought in ploughing, digging, hoeing, and tillage operations generally is to put the soil in such condition that weathering from frost, air, and moisture will go on most rapidly. The crop that follows this cultivation gets the benefit of the provision thus made for it in part only. Do what we will, we shall not be able to utilise all the plant-food that has been prepared for plants in the course of each season's cropping. Some of the nitrogen in the form of ammonia gas escapes from the soil; the nitrates which have combined with lime to form nitrate of lime, and smaller amounts of potash and phosphoric acid, are carried into the soil beyond the reach of the plant rootlets, or are lost in the drainage water.

In a sense, then, cultivation may be said to be a source of waste to the soil, because it is the means of reducing the quantity of humus in the soil; this waste must be made

In order, therefore, to

good by manures. keep up the fertility of a garden it is necessary to apply new quantities of nitrogen, either in the form of farmyard or stable manure, peat-moss litter, or vegetable refuse, in order that the store of humus may be replenished. Artificial fertilisers, while they will supply the requisite nitrogen, potash, or phosphoric acid for a crop, will not supply the humus. At the same time, the Rothamsted experiments indicate very clearly that chemical fertilisers applied to suit the wants of soil and crop are not necessarily a source of injury to the soil, but may, indeed, be a lasting benefit to it.

The profits growing out of the use of commercial manures are chiefly dependent upon the cost of the fertiliser and the price of the resultant crop. Like ploughing, digging, or draining, therefore, the use of purchased fertilisers is to be determined by practical economical considerations, and not by chemical or other theories concerning them. Artificial manures have an undoubted position in practical gardening in helping out and reinforcing the natural supply of stable dung, and, even where the home supply is ample, an addition to it of some concentrated manure may often be made of benefit in producing crops "out of season," or by giving some soluble plant-food in the requisite quantity, and at just the best moment to assist the needs of the plant.

Exactly what the soil requires, and how much in the way of artificial fertilisers, cannot be determined by a chemical analysis only. The gardener's special resource is actual trial of the different fertilisers combining the three elements of value in manures-nitrogen, potash, and phosphoric acid. The differences of soils, in respect to fertility, and the vari able demands of the many crops in a garden, explain why no hard and fast rule can be laid down for manuring. The gardener who would know what his soil needs must resort to the same means he is accustomed to em

ploy in learning the capacity of his garden in other respects he must try by actual experiment on a small area of soil the effects of small dressings of sulphate of ammonia, nitrate of soda, kainit, bone-meal, superphos phate, and mixtures of these in measured quantities, and carefully note the results. The information thus obtained will be found of great practical value.

KINFAUNS CASTLE.

The castle of Kinfauns, built on a historic site, occupies a delightful position a few miles out of Perth. It is somewhat elevated above the valley of the kiver Tay, and behind it rises a magnificent amphitheatre of hills. The gardening here, both indoor and outdoor, is very good, the greenhouses containing for their size a better collection of well-grown plants than I saw elsewhere. The garden is a delightful spot, especially above the house, where it occupies a valley with sloping lawns running down to a brook in the middle and dotted with fine old trees. Conifers are well grown and vigorous, but not many are exceptional in size as these trees go in Perthshire. Pyrus rotundifolia, one of the White Beam trees native of Britain but now rare in a wild state, I found here 60 feet high, its trunk 7 feet in circumference. Quercus Turneri was 45 feet high-loftier than I have noticed elsewhere, and a specimen of the variegated common Oak was exceptionally well coloured. A fine Sycamore over 100 feet high and a Canadian Hemlock Spruce are also features of the place.

LENY.

Situated about one mile from Callander, and not far from the Trossachs, Leny occupies a position of great natural beauty. To botanists It is a place of more than ordinary interest in being the home of one of the fathers of Indian botany-Francis Buchanan Hamilton (17621829). He lived at Leny after he retired from the superintendentship of the Botanic Gardens at Calcutta in 1816, and died there 13 years later. Some of the present walks about the grounds were planned and made by him. Leny now belongs to his grandson, Mr. Hamilton Buchanan, chief of the clan Buchanan.

The principal feature of the grounds at Leny is the "glen." This is a picturesque gorge worn out of the face of a steep hill behind the house, down which a burn pursues a rugged and tortuous course. The sides of the glen are in places so precipitous as to necessitate the crossing and recrossing of the stream several times. Along its banks have been planted numerous beautiful trees and shrubs now in luxuriant growth. Perhaps the most noteworthy of these are two Himalayan Rhododendrons-R. barbatum and R. Thomsoni-both of which are now 25 feet high. From their immense size, it is not improbable that they were raised at Leny from seeds sent to Francis Hamilton about 1819 by Wallich, his successor at the Calcutta Botanic Garden. If so, they must be the oldest in the kingdom: Among other things of interest are fine specimens of Canadian Hemlock Spruce -Tsuga canadensis-one of which has a trunk 7 feet 2 inches in girth. Another good specimen is growing most picturesquely on the edge of the gorge, whose precipitous side it overhangs, evidence of how much the climate favours the growth of such trees, for its roots appear to be embedded mainly in the rock. Tsuga Mertensiana, the common Silver Fir and Douglas Fir, are represented by fine healthy speci. .ens, although not so large as one sees in other parts of Perthshire. Here also is growing what I think is the finest specimen I have seen of the cut-leaved Beech-Fagus sylvatica var. heterophylla. It has a trunk just over 7 feet in girth and it is 70 feet high.

(To be continued.)

The Week's Work.

PLANTS UNDER GLASS.
By J. G. WESTON, Gardener to H. J. KING, Esq.,
Eastwell Park, Kent.

The fernery. Many of the plants in this house are showing signs of growth, therefore repotting and top-dressing may now be taken in hand. The species of Nephrolepis are amongst the earliest, and are very useful Ferns for many purposes, some of the varieties making especially good "basket" plants, being useful also for planting in cork pockets on walls. The old N. exaltata thrives almost anywhere, and some of the new varieties are very beautiful, as N. e. Todeaoides, N. e. elegantíssima, N. e. Whitmani, and N. e. Piersonii. Many of the forms of Nephrolepis are strong growers, and require l'beral treatment in the shape of feeding, when the pots are filled with roots, also plenty of

water.

Ferns cannot possibly remain healthy if neglected in this respect, or if kept in a dry atmosphere. A good many Ferns, usually treated to a stove temperature, might be much healthier, if, after growth was made, they were put under cooler conditions. In potting Ferns, use good, rough, turfy loam and peat, with plenty of rubble, crocks or charcoal, and sufficient sand to keep the soil porous. Pot very firmly.

Any plants that are in bad condition should be washed out and divided, potting the roots first into small pots, and re-potting them as required through the season. If any tree Ferns are in an unhealthy state at the roots, the old ball of roots may be chopped off completely, close to the trunk, the latter then being potted up in some rough compost as above, and put into a warmer house for a time, where they will quickly recover and start to make a healthy growth. Frequent and copious syringings are necessary for all tree Ferns during their season of growth. Any rough Ferns that are not required for pots may be divided and planted under, or by the edges of the stages in planthouses. These, with Begonias of the "Rex" type, and various Tradescantias and Selaginellas will furnish, in such positions, a quantity of greenery" for cutting if required. Walls of conservatories or ferneries, furnished with cork pockets or wired frames, may be renewed or filled with a variety of Ferns of a drooping habit; Woodwardia radicans succeeds excellently if given sufficient space to develop its beautiful fronds, and many other Feras will Occur to the intending planter, all tending to give an attractive and natural appearance to such houses. Platyceriums stand out boldly, and, if well grown, usually attract considerable attention from visitors. After Ferns have been repotted, an atmospheric temperature of 60 should be afforded them, admitting a little air on sunny days as the temperature rises, and keeping plenty of moisture about and under the stages, &c. As the sun-heat increases, shading must be given careful attention; the young fronds, being very tender, quickly become yellow if exposed to too much direct sunlight.

FRUITS UNDER GLASS.

By ALEXANDER KIRK, Gardener to J. THOMPSON PATON, Esq., Norwood, Alloa, Clackmannanshire.

Over

The early vinery, in which the Grapes have been thinned for the first time, should have an atmospheric temperature at night of 65°, rising to 75 by day and to 85° if caused by sun heat. Admit a little air by the top ventilators when the weather is favourable, and close the house early in the afternoon. Damp the paths and borders with tepid water daily to maintain much moisture in the atmosphere. Guard against the hot water pipes becoming over-heated, and prevent also draughts of cold, especially frosty air, which would soon cause a check to growth and favour red spider, for the eradication of which pest the syringe would have to be used. Regulate and tie in lateral shoots according to the light and space at command. Do not crowd the foliage. Rub out all young growths, pinching sub-laterals at the first leaf. Commence to thin the berries for the second time. Cut out all stoneless berries, and regulate the bunches, which may have been overlooked at the first thinning, by tying up some of the shoulders with small strips of matting. Remove loose, straggly bunches and regulate the crop according to the strength and vigour of the vine. Apply the soil tester to the inside border, and if the soil is found to be dry remove the mulching to one side, and apply to the surface of the border a sprinkling of fine grade vine manure at the rate of 1 lb. to 2 square yards. Next apply a good watering with water at the temperature of 70° and replace the mulching. This watering in general will be sufficient until the berries commence to colour.

Early Figs in pots, which are plunged in a bottom heat of 75°, require an atmospheric temperature of 55° to 60°. When the plants are breaking into growth, increase the atmospheric moisture by damping the paths three or four times daily with tepid water. As the days lengthen increase the heat and give the plants a plentiful supply of tepid water at their roots. Admit air through the top ventilators during favourable weather and close the house early in the afternoon. Permanent Fig trees planted out in borders which have been concreted and pre

Cucumbers.-Plants that have been in pots during the winter will now be starting into fresh growth. An atmospheric temperature of 65 to 75 by day will be suitable. Damp the paths to keep the atmosphere humid, and syringe the plants if there is any appearance of red spider, &c. Plants raised from seeds sown last month will now be ready to pot on. Place the compost in the pit to become warmed before using it in potting operations. Pots 6 inches in diameter are best. After potting plunge the pots in a bottom heat of 75°, where they may remain until the plants are ready for putting into the border.

PUBLIC PARKS AND GARDENS, By W. W. PETTIGREW, Superintendent of the Parks and Open Spaces in the City of Cardiff. Labels and labelling.-The labelling of plants is one of those matters to which every gardener, whether in the "trade" or in private or publ.c service, requires to give more or less attention. In nurseries and private gardens the object ct labelling is done merely for the purposes of identification, and such being the case it hardly signifies whether plants are indicated by their proper botanical names or by a system of numbers used as equivalents for these names. On the contrary, in public parks the object is more for educational purposes; hence it is very necessary to furnish, not only the correct scientific name of the plant, but also, where possible, such further information as can readily be presented on a label of ordinary size. There is ample scope for this kind of work in most parks without exactly turning them into botanical gar dens. Trees and shrubs, herbaceous plants, and florists' flowers might all, under certain circumstances, be labelled with much advantage to the public. It is surprising and no less gratifying to find the great number of visitors frequenting our parks in these days who take an intelligent interest in all kinds of plants, a circumstance which, taken in conjunction with the fact that the Education Board is doing everything possible to encourage Nature-study among school children, provides a very good reason for extending the practice of labelling plants in public parks. In a town where a park or a portion of one is set aside as a botanical garden, there is hardly the same necessity for extensive labelling in the remaining parks as there would be where no such institution exists.

Kinds of label.-All kinds of materials such as wood, slate, zinc, copper, lead, and gun-metal are used for label-making, and all are more or less useful for the purpose, but the choice of the material and the kind of label employed is as often as not decided simply upon the question of cost. In establishments where a great deal of labelling is done the stamping process is usually adopted, when either rubber stamps are used for printing upon painted labels, or steel stamps upon strips of sheet lead. The latter kind of label, which I first saw used at Kew about a dozen years ago, is difficult to beat for cheapness and general utility, and is De kind I would recommend for use in a public garden. It has been in use from time immemorial.

For trees and shrubs we use a lead label 3 inches by 3 inches stamped with inch letters filled in with white enamel. In addition to the botanical name, the common one-when known -and an indication of the country to which the plant belongs are given. These labels, attached to a small iron rod, are placed in front of trees and shrubs in such a way that anyone desirous of obtaining their names can easily do so. The labels used for herbaceous plants are 3 inches by 2 inches, and simply record the botanical name, whilst with florists' flowers only the common name is supplied.

A label-printer.-Labelling is best left in the hands of one man, who should be held respon sible for making and printing all labels. Such work is best done during wet weather or the winter time when outside work is at a standstill.

Standard for nomenclature.-As we consider it important in connection with the naming of plant to have a uniformity of nomenclature, we have adopted the Kew Hand-lists as our guide in that matter.